Smithy

Try to increase the wall count to 3 or 4, maybe that helps. I am not sure if there is something else which could solve it too, but I would try it with more walls.

I am sorry, I just downloaded one from THingiverse or Youmagine and haven't saved them. But I think they are all working. The 0.4 nozzle is fine, no problem, that's the standard one. But check also your Cura settings, what you have set for line width as @Mechatron127 mentioned earlier. Also check that you don't have any special settings in Cura, use just a default profile. And check also your feeder, if is working well or not, after you have these clips installed again. When your Bowden slips out of the feeder then it could also cause some problems. So fix that first.

I looked into it already, because it need something similar. I thought it must be very easy to switch the lights on and off, but I was not successful so far to reverse engineer the parts of the firmware. Maybe it works via the official api, but haven't tried it yet. So, thanks for the good idea @RudydG, I will try to give my best to find out how to handle it. I think switching on/off and maybe adjust the brightness should work. I also tried to understand how to add a button to the menu. On the first look it looks easy, but when I dive deeper into it, it is not so easy anymore 🙂

When a print comes loose it is most of time a wrong leveling. Also if you did the leveling already many times, it does not mean you did it correctly. I would try to level a bit closer that the first layer is squished into the bed a bit more. Another reason could be that you need to clean your print bed or apply some glue stick to increase the adhesion. I don't know your printer and don't know if it uses a glass bed or something else, but that's the second reason why a print gets loose.

This happens when the blades of the collet are not ok anymore or if the Bowden is worn out in the area the blades grab the tube. So you can replace the collet and/or also change the the Bowden. I would try it first with the collet, it is often enough to change this part. Sometimes you can also fix it when you print a slightly thicker clip for the collet, but in my experience it works not 100% if the collet itself is not the best.

Please write in English or post your message in the French section. Thanks! ** moved to French section **

Printing these clips is working well, I did it some times myself, but you can also buy these clips at any Ultimaker reseller. Regarding scratching, yes a good question and I can only say you will get a feeling of how much is the correct way. But I level my beds in a way that I can move the paper but I can feel that the nozzle scratches the paper. Or in other words bring the nozzle so close that you cannot move the paper anymore and then turn it just a little bit away. And during the first layer the line/filament should be squished in the bed, you want to see a flat line and not a "round" one that looks like that the nozzle just lays down the filament. It needs to be squished into the bed. You can also turn the screws during the first layer print. just turn them 1/4 turn closer when you see it is not squished enough.

A Cura reinstallation brings back all default profiles.

Sometimes it helps a lot when you give your printer a fixed IP address. Then you have also the possibility to configure the printer manually in Cura with that IP and avoid the auto detection which could fail sometimes.

You need to level closer to the bed. Take a piece of normal paper and move the paper during leveling, when you feel that the nozzle scratches the paper you should be fine. Check also if your nozzle has a clean tip.

Often, yes. But start a print, and take a picture of the first layer, nothing more, just the first layer, then we can check the leveling. But keep everything else as default.

Ich denke nicht, dass es etwas mit Cura zu tun hat, du hast einfach während des Drucks die Haftung zur Glasplatte verloren. Man sollte immer eine Schicht UHU Stick oder dergleichen auf die Glasplatte auftragen und diese Schicht von Zeit zu Zeit erneuern. Auf blankes Glas drucken kann funktionieren muss es aber nicht.

I have moved your posting to the Italien section, otherwise no one can help you when you don't write in English.

That's not correct there are tons of printers with 1,75mm filament and they all work fine with Cura. I think I haven't understood the problem. You have a printer with 1,75 mm filament, then you also have normally a printer profile for it and if not you have to create one with the custom FFF printer. There you should have the filament diameter and there you set it to 1,75. So in my opinion you don't have to touch the material profile, you have to tell Cura that your printer is using 1,75 filament and that is done in the printers profile machine settings.

Also after several years with UM printers, I still run into this issue from time to time myself 🙂

You are welcome, happy printing! 🙂

Seems you sliced the file with the wrong printer profile UM2(+) instead of UM2+Connect. Check your printer configuration in Cura if you really have the correct printer.

Würde nicht die IP öffentlich zugänglich machen, auch wenns nur der eine Port ist. Schau ob dein Router auch VPN Server spielen kann, dann kannst du vom Handy eine VPN Verbindung zu deinem Router aufbauen und darüber dann jede private IP in deinem Netz zugänglich machen. Das ist sicher und du hast den Vorteil, dass du wirklich alles machen kannst auch wenn du unterwegs bist.

You have to select on the left side, that you want to print with the second extruder. (select the object first) I think that's the problem.

Here is the windows 32bit version: https://github.com/SmithyAT/UltiTuner/releases/download/v0.8.0/ultituner-0.8.0-win-386.zip

@duyle Not yet, I was not aware that there are still 32bit windows computers in the the field. But give me a few minutes....

Do you see the same behavior with other materials as well? I mean, maybe it is just the material profile itself, for whatever reason. And when you say the time is specified in the material profile, then maybe there is a problem. Just an idea...

Hey I am happy that it is useful for you! Regarding your question: If I remember correctly I read somewhere that the printer is using his stored values if you turn off the leveling procedure. The big question is, what is the "stored value"? It could mean the last value from a manual leveling or the last value from the active leveling. To be honest, I don't how the printer handles that internally, sorry. But, give it a try. Do a manual leveling, if not already done. Then run a print job with active leveling enabled and after that job turn it off. We still cannot say which values are now used, but maybe the printer uses the last active leveling values and if not you have still your manual values. It is hard to understand and to get an overview about the firmware as external person, and such special cases are even more hard to find. Maybe someone from the Ultimaker firmware team can give us here an answer which values are used in such cases. I am sorry that I cannot give you a better answer at the moment.

@rachael7 I am sorry to hear that you have problems. I don't have a Material Station so I was not able to test it, but maybe the MS procedures are depending on the state of the printer like the cool down phase and waiting for cleaning the build plate. But I am just guessing, I have no idea when the MS starts unloading the filament, but could imagine that it depends on the end of the cool down phase. Have you already tried to set the cool down temperature back to 60°C? UltiTuner just edits this single value in a config/property file, no more changes in the firmware, so setting it back is like you never used UltiTuner.

@CarloK is correct. That is exactly what I do, ssh into the printer and then send the command via DBUS. No, and I don't use the REST API at all at the moment. But I want to check it for ideas, maybe some API functions are useful for others as well, let's see....