Smithy

Thanks Viktor, yes would be nice, but would be more complicated to be able to run it from Windows, Mac, Linux and to be honest I have no experience with GUI applications. But I will take a look into it, maybe it is easier than expected.

According to Github the change was done in March 2021 and commited https://github.com/Ultimaker/fdm_materials/commit/780af60d3cd6bac55db936578bb06b3c3505fadb Not sure when it was available in Cura.

Thanks a lot, I will look into it in the next days, but I see no problem to add this feature.

Gerne! Das mit dem Komma und Punkt ist mir auch schon passiert und nicht nur 1x 🙂

Nice summary, thanks! I also like ASA, but I don't use a raft. I have replaced the glass bed with a Filafarm Switch plate because I often chipped my glass plate. Since the switch plate I am happy. If it prints easier than ABS depends on the brand you use. For example UM ABS prints much easier than other ABS, it is a different mixture, a bit lower temp resistance but I like it. I use ASA from Filamentum and it works for my needs. (outdoor, UV, ...)

https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360017464340-How-to-dry-Ultimaker-materials- https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012057799-How-to-dry-Ultimaker-PVA Keep in mind that an oven or food dryer quickly shots over the temperature, which can deform the spool. To be sure dry it on the build plate, heat it up and cover the spool with a towel or box.

A live stream is only possible when you can do a VPN connection to the printer network. But you can get a kind of live stream with UMs Digital factory. When your printer is connected to the DF, then you can check the camera from the DFs website. There is (currently) no live stream, but you get every few seconds a new picture. More than enough to check the printer from home.

Your print head looks strange, why the Kapton tape on the bottom? Have you installed the nozzle cover correctly?

To print flexible filament you need a direct drive extruder, with a Bowden it is hard to print. I don't know an Ender printer, but I know the Prusa. The Prusa has a nice print quality, but not better than an UM2. On the other hand, when you compare the handling, the look and feel of the printer itself, there is a big difference. The Prusa is completely open, no enclosure and has the feeling of a prototype. Again it prints nicely but I would say it is a step back.

Hallo mit der geslicten Datei fangen wir nur bedingt etwas an, besser wäre es in Cura das Projekt zu speichern, dann haben wir alles, die STLs und deine Settings. Den Z-Wert solltest du schon per Zahl eingeben können, warum funktioniert das nicht? Ein anderer Weg wäre das ganze schon im CAD passend zusammenzustellen. Dann schneidest du die einzelnen Teile und Cura fügt dir die einzelnen STLs dann genauso wieder zusammen wie es im CAD war. Dann ersparst du dir das Finetuning mit den Z,X,Y Werten.

I am sure @ahoeben can help you...

Great idea @CarloK, when @jeremymorgan can send me a short info with the steps he did, I can ofc implement it into the tool. I am always open for new ideas and additions 🙂

Das wollte ich gerade vorschlagen, das ist leider so. Das neue kommende Cura hat eine komplett andere Engine, möglicherweise ist das dort dann nicht mehr so.

You already found it, but yes 0.2 is too thin for a 0.4 nozzle. You can try to enable "print thin walls" in Cura, but the result will not be the best.

I don't know the Renkforce printers, but I guess you need a driver which was installed on your Air and which is missing now on your new Macbook. The driver is not part of Cura, so take a look at the vendor (Conrad?) if you find something.

Kannst du einen Screenshot hochladen damit man das sieht.

I think the same, it should be a flat surface, but you have a "structure" in it. Do you use a default profile or have you changed a lot of settings? Are the print cores clean and have you also checked the feeder and feeder tension? The marker should be in middle position. Which filament do you use? Can you also take a picture from the bottom of your model?

There is no easy way. The only way I am aware of is to use the API of the printer and delete the profiles one by one. But a factory reset should also do the job and delete all your custom loaded profiles.

Ja ok, an das hatte ich nicht gedacht. Aber du solltest wenn möglich die Wandstärke immer als vielfaches der Linienbreite wählen. Also bei Linienbreite 0.4, sollte eine Wand im CAD 0.8, 1.2 usw. haben. Das gibt auch schönere Druckergebnisse weil das was er da jetzt in die Mitte füllt ist eher ein Kompromiss.

As far as I know UM printers don't support linear advance. But I am sure @ahoeben knows more details...

Ich vermute trotzdem, dass dein Modell bzw. die eine Seite ein Problem hat, eventuell ist der Körper nicht geschlossen, irgendwo ein kleiner Spalt etc. den du auf den 1. Blick nicht siehst. Mit welchen CAD Programm hat du gezeichnet? Kannst du das STL teilen und hier hochladen?

Wenn du Infill nicht auf 0% gestellt hast, dann würde ich eher einen Fehler im STL vermuten. Hast du dort eine volle Wand mit dieser Stärke? Selbst gezeichnet? Eventuell mit Sketchup? Cura braucht hier eine volle Geometrie und da darf kein Hohlraum innen sein, auch wenn es im CAD Programm vielleicht nicht so aussieht.

Hi, no that will not come, you can only use the laters version of Cura which is still running on High Sierra. Cura depends on some underlying libraries and these libraries are mostly also not compatible with such an old OS. Regarding new functions, check the release notes to get a list of new features after 4.10.0. I think you will have not much alternatives than upgrading your OS in the near future. High Sierra is quite old, and 4 major relates behind the current one. So you will also see problems with other software, except the ones you have currently installed. Definitely not 🙂

The solution from Greg is definitely the better one when you don't need 3 or more wall on the object. It also safes printing time to keep the 2 walls.