Smithy

That's right, it would also be quite easy to implement a door sensor, which pauses the print job as soon as the door opens, l to avoid serious damage to the print head.

Also a solution 🙂 But I would have expected a perfect tool from you - what happened? 🙂

Unfortunately, it is not my design, I found it on Youmagin or Thingiverse so I have just the STL. I just imported the STL into Fusion360 to modify it a little bit, because it was 1mm too long which caused some vibrations during printing. The attached STL is the modified one, which fits now nicely.

Thanks for the feedback, I glad it works for you.

Ja das kann nicht schaden, dann siehst du ob es ein einmaliges Thema war oder ob es wieder kommt.

I have no solution but have seen similar issues. I printed several small parts at once and Cura estimated a print time of 3 hours. Actually, it tool more than 8 hours 🙂 So I guess it also depends on the object itself, some print jobs are more accurate than others. Normally when I print a single model, the estimation is ok more or less, but if it is off for a few minutes I would not notice it.

Hard to say, but yes could be from the PVA. I don't think it is under extrusion, because then you would have much more holes or issues. You can avoid those scratches when you set Combing to "not in skin", this should help for the surface quality. You can access the webcam directly from a browser: http://<your IP>:8080/?action=stream And welcome aboard! 🙂

Druckst du mit SD Karte oder über USB?

Aber da liegt das Problem, es halten nicht alle so gut. Je höher dein Objekt wird umso größer die Chance, dass der Druckkopf dir ein paar Teile von der Platte fegt. Vielleicht ist auch dein Druckbett nicht 100% plan oder gelevelt. Wie gesagt, ich hatte ähnliche Probleme als ich noch auf blankem Glas gedruckt habe, viele Teile haben auch so gehalten, aber nicht alle und nicht immer. Kleber versaut bei mir die Unterseite gar nicht, man sieht keinen Unterschied, da der Kleber ja am Glas lediglich eine rauhe Oberfläche erzeugt, da klebt ja nichts mehr. Es gibt vereinzelt immer wieder Leute die unbedingt auf blanken Glas drucken wollen, da gibt es dann halt auch immer wieder Probleme mit der Haftung. Du kannst nur penibel darauf auchten, dass das Glas 100% sauber ist, nach jedem Druck mit Alkohol abwischen und auf ein perfekt eingestelltes Druckbett achten. Langsamer drucken bzw. langsamere Verfahrwege können auch helfen, wenn der Druckkopf nicht mehr so schnell drüber rattert. Mir persönlich war das zu mühsam und ich verwende auf allen Druckern entweder UHU Stick oder Magicoo Stick als Haftung und hatte nie mehr einen Teil der nicht gehaftet hat.

I found an S5 version of the latch which exists also for the UM3. But the S5 version was a little bit too loose, so I reworked it a little bit. Here is the STL of a latch on my S5. S5-PrintHead.stl

Hast du möglicherweise in Cura ein Postprocessing Script drinnen? Einmal eingestellt, bleibt das drinnen bist du es wieder raus nimmst. Könnte mir vorstellen, dass wenn es damit ein Problem gibt, dass dann beim Speichern immer nur ein paar Zeilen ausgegeben werden. Die Postprocessing Scripts findest du im Menü oben unter Extensions.

I think you more than one issue, the blobs in each layer are the z-seam, and should not look that bad. You can control the z-seam, to have it not randomly distributed over the object, but have it always in one place. But then it will still look like bad with a big blob. I guess you print too hot or with too low cooling. So the nozzle oozes during the z-hop and then you get the blob at the beginning of the new layer. You can also play with retraction settings, but printing cooler should help here. The problem on the top is hard to guess, maybe a too big layer height? Is the model hollow?

I am not 100% sure, but I guess the global settings are from the original profile and the Extruder 1 setting from your modifications. When you create a new profile, you have an original profile as the base, then you modify some settings and save it as a new profile. But in your case, the layer height should be 0.15, because Extruder 1 settings override the global ones. When you struggle with stringing, try to print cooler and check your retraction settings.

Hallo Du hast einen UMO+, also mit Heizbett, richtig? Wie hoch ist die Temperatur vom Heizbett - sollte ca. 60° sein. Verwendest du zusätzlich noch etwas am Glas? Ich würde immer eine dünne Schicht UHU Stick empfehlen, grob auftragen und dann mit einem feuchten Taschentuch/Küchenrolle schön dünn verteilen. Ich verwende die Glasplatte nie ohne einem zusätzlichen Hilfsmittel wie z.B. UHU Stick, da ich ich ohne auch immer wieder das Problem hatte, das die Bauteile manchmal haften und dann wieder nicht. Mit der dünnen Schicht UHU Stick, ist es nie wieder aufgetreten.

Forgot to answer this question: yes, retracting costs time and within the infill, it doesn't matter if there are some crumbles.

This example is an extreme one, there are too many retractions and retractions are limited for a specific extrusion distance. The setting is called "Maximum Retraction Count" and you can try to increase it a little bit, but not too much. The limit is important that your filament will not grind down due to the extensive retractions. The default setting is 25 for the UM3, so 25 retractions will happen, then it prints without retractions until the filament is moved enough to start over again with the retractions. Such a model is hard to print, you have to play with retractions, combing and print temperature to avoid oozing when traveling without a retract. You can also check the setting "Max Comb Distance With No Retract", which defines the way the head can move without a retract.

That's ok, traveling inside the infill area is without a retract, therefore you get some "noise" in the infill.

First of all, I haven't tried such a combination, so it is just a guess. I don't think that you will get problems. I print sometimes with the AA 0.25 and BB 0.4 without problems, and there you have a similar mix. Give it a try with a smaller object and some PLA if you don't want to waste the woodfill.

I am not sure, but I think I have seen Bowden tubes at the Bondtech shop where you can order per cm or so.

You can use a raft instead of the one layer brim.

There is also a more heat resistant PETG, like Colorfabb HT, which has a glass temperature of 100° or 110". But for the car, you are probably fine with normal PETG.

Yes, that's right, but the BB core is only for PVA, everything else needs the AA print core.

You are welcome. Additionally you have also the option to reduce the line width a little bit in Cura. So if your wall thickness is for example 0.35mm you could try to set the line width to 0.34, but it will affect the whole object, so do it only, if you are near the 0.4 or whatever nozzle size you have.

When the wall thickness of these characters are too small then Cura ignores it. You should manage your object to have at least a wall thickness > your nozzle size. So if you print with a 0.4 nozzle, make your walls at least 0.41mm thick. If this is not possible, you can turn on an experimental Cura feature which is called "print thin walls" and your thin walls will be sliced as well, but can still be too thin to print fine.

Super freut mich, dass es klappt, bei 8 Rollen wäre das dumm gewesen 🙂