Smithy

Every PETG is a little bit different, but basically, you are right.

Could be, but the print core cools down a little bit when not in use, to avoid such things. You could try to enable the prime tower, but I am not sure if it really helps. I assume that your humidity is too high in the room, so you start your print and everything is fine, but after some hours the PVA gets too wet. You should really get a dry box or in the meantime, take an airtight plastic bag, put some silica gel packs inside and open it just a 1-2 cm to get the filament out. Put the spool on the table, and print out of the bag. The feeder is strong enough to transport the filament.

I think it is a partly clogged nozzle and your PVA has already absorbed too much moisture. So it is probably too soft or partly too soft. I don't think it is the feeder. I would do some hot/cold pulls on your BB core, to be sure it is really clean and dry your spool of PVA in the oven or on the heated print bed covered with a towel.

Your problem is a loose pulley which slips on the axle. Check all the pulleys and tighten them as much as possible. You can also make a little mark on the axle and the pulley, then print something and you will see which pulley is loose - or just tighten all.

You are right, I haven't zoomed into the picture.

The garbage in the infill is normal because the printer doesn't retract when printing the infill to save time and because it doesn't matter how the infill looks like. Have you checked this article: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/19503-how-to-fix-pillowing Adding more top layer can also help.

In der ersten Schicht Warping ist ungewöhnlich, ich denke nicht das es Warping ist, das entsteht erst später wenn die Schichten unterschiedlich schnell abkühlen. Schau dir einmal dein Bed Leveling an und mach den Abstand zwischen Nozzle und Glas kleiner, damit sich die erste Schicht richtig schön aufs Glas drückt. Wenn sich die erste Schicht schon löst, dann liegt es meistens daran.

Basically, it is not needed to have the profile in the printer, it is only used to load/unload the material, but you can choose any material which has a similar print/nozzle temperature. Everything else (finetuning) is done with the profile in Cura itself. But it is planned that Cura can synchronize custom material profiles to the printer, so in the future, it will be easier.

I use the Polybox which can feed from the top (if you put the box on the floor) or feed from the side near the bottom, which works great if you put the box on the table. But you can also use any other solution or use a normal airtight container, drill a little hole for the filament and out some silica gel packs inside. It doesn't matter which box, everything works, just keep it dry all the time.

And most important with nylon, keep your spool dry! If you leave the spool outside of an airtight container for more than a few hours, the material absorbs too much moisture and you get serious extrusion problems. So your spool is probably already wet - but you can dry it again in an oven for several hours. Check the forum for temperatures.

Hey, looks cool and the lamp fits also to the design!

Could be a clogged nozzle. Try to make some hot/cold pulls or if you want to do a quick check, use another AA print core.

When it comes to UV resistance then ASA would be the material of choice. You can print it with the ABS profile with your S5 without problems. Depending on the brand of ASA, you should adjust the print temperature if needed. You can use every ASA brand you want, it is very similar to ABS. And that's the drawback of ASA, I am not sure if it is compatible with PVA supports - I don't think so. For ASA you would have to use HIPS as a support material. You don't need the ruby 0.6 print core, only if you print with abrasive materials. You could give CPE a try, it has a higher glass temperature than PLA (and ToughPLA). UV resistance is not so good, but that doesn't mean it will not work. Maybe the color will not be stable with time and white gets yellow due to the UV light, but the part itself should be still stable.

That's right, the machine needs the information only to heat up the nozzle to the right temperature when you load/unload the material. All print settings are in the gcode. But the material should match, otherwise, the printer warns you about the mismatch and you have to confirm it manually which is annoying.

How do you change the material? Normally when you use the Unload/Load functions of the menu, the material will be detected when it is a UM spool and the NFC chip can be detected. Otherwise, you get a selection to choose the material you want to load.

Unfortunately, it is currently not possible.

Ihr redet glaube ich aneinander vorbei, bzw. verwechselt horizontal mit vertikal 🙂 Er will das Infill innerhalb eines Layers ändern, also horizontal (von links nach rechts) und nicht von unten nach oben.

Ja das ist so, mein Hotend bewegt sich auch noch minimal. Ansonsten immer mit Gefühl anziehen, denn nach locker kommt ab 😉

Wenig, ich habe erst ein paar Teile mit Ultimaker PP gedruckt und hab dazu die Default Einstellungen in Cura verwendet, sonst nichts verändert. Wenn es für dich schon nicht einfach ist, dann funktioniert das Plugin auch nicht wirklich. Ich habe es ein paar mal versucht und dann wieder aufgegeben. Es ist jedenfalls nicht so intelligent, dass es sämtliche Dinge analysiert und dann die optimale Ausrichtung wählt.

Es gibt ein Plugin dafür, aber ich würde das Teil selbst so platzieren wie ich es haben möchte. Der beste Algorithmus kann dir deine Wünsche nicht abnehmen. Beim Laden wird das Teil so plaziert wie es gezeichnet wurde, da passiert sonst nichts.

Are you able to confirm it again after power on? Do a Cura Connect reset, you and check if the problem is solved afterward.

Yes, when you get the same error with another USB stick, then it is probably not the stick.

Yes this is the latest firmware. The tension in the middle position is ok, you don't need to adjust it, only when you print with more flexible materials, but normally die middle position is more than enough. Maybe there is some dirt in the feeder? Just an idea....

Ich kann dir nur bedingt helfen, da ich mit Eco PLA noch nie gedruckt habe und es sicher auch nicht tun werde. Aber mit unterschiedlichen Hilfsmittelm, UHU Stick, Dimafix oder 3DLac Spray etc. wirst du schon eine Haftung bekommen. Lüfter reduzieren kann auch gegen Warping helfen. Den Aufwand für PLA zu machen halte ich aber nicht für sehr sinnvoll. Lege das Eco PLA zur Seite und vergiss es. Mit güstigen Materialien hat man oft Probleme und verliert dadurch Nerven und Zeit. Es muss ja auch nicht das teuerste Material sein, aber recyceltes Plastik muss es dann auch nicht sein.

Of course you can share the photos, but unfortunately, I have no Instagram account (I don't like Facebook 🙂) But feel free to use the photos as you want. I have to find a suitable box, but I will send you the parts during the next week.