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Alib001 has made 5 posts over the lifetime of his account here. No one responded to this post. Usually EULAs pop up during installation? Maybe try installing Cura? Maybe @fvrmr can answer your question? Why do you care about the EULA? Do you care about Ultimaker and also Cura or just Cura?

Because of the 4 clips you can print a "cross" shape that is 233X215 that avoids the clips. But not a rectangle shape that is 233X215. Because of the clips. Oh - one more thing - it might not be enough to just use only one nozzle. I think you actually have to disable that core. It should have an X through it in cura.

set "travel avoid distance" to zero. disable brim and skirt both! details here: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360013799339-How-to-print-the-maximum-build-volume-in-Ultimaker-Cura

Lol. He's not completely wrong. It took me a year to get really good with sketchup where I could design at the speed of thought and not even know what my hands were doing. If you are at that point it might really suck to switch CAD. If you are not at that point it might be worthwhile to switch to something like DSM (design spark mechanical) which I love and that ALSO took me a year (plus I had to buy a space mouse) to get so that my fingers just do their thing and I don't have to think about what shortcut keys I should hit next. But if you have put in a ton of effort getting really good at sketchup then you can put in a tiny bit more to use the special plugins I linked to such that sketchup will not let you make non-manifold parts (parts that are impossible in reality to exist). Sketchup plus plugins is... good enough. There are things I really hated about sketchup though - often two flat planes that appeared to be coplanar and should have been, were not. And it was so frustrating and wasted dozens of hours of my time trying to close up holes. It's incredibly common to have a few open triangles in sketchup that just won't seal up. No issues like that with DSM.

@the860engine - it sounds like you can use mosaic pallete but not the "hub"? Maybe you should email Mosaic and let us know what they say.

What version of firmware do you have (you can check in the menu system)? And are you using latest Cura? (4.8)? I believe the latest firmware (and latest cura) will transfer profiles in the UFP files on the USB flash drive? Maybe? My memory isn't fantastic but I think that's a very recent firmware (and cura) feature. Anyway if you answer those 2 questions someone else can tell you for sure.

Note that some people get the UM3 confused with the Ultimaker S3. The S3 much more closely resembles the S5. If pallette doesn't work with S5 then it won't work with S3 either. Their conversion kit for 1.75mm filament however will work for all 3: UM3/S3/S5. It sticks down into the existing Ultimaker cores which can be used on any of those 3 machines. Getting it to work with Cura is a little trickier. One simple method is to just set the filament flow to (2.85/1.75)^2 which I vaguely remember is around 257% If you want to use a pallette, maybe buy a printer just for using with the pallette.

@Ahiggs - here's what I mean - the two black connectors - one is pointed by the red arrow here - the other is just below (hidden by that white cable): This website explains how to remove the cover (it's pretty obvious!) https://fbrc8.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115005017923-Electronics-Board-UM3-UM3X-

@Ahiggs - actually, if your UM3 is older - your whole issue might be those 2 jumpers. I circled them in red in the photo above! They may be a little loose - when things heat up (after an hour of printing) things expand and one of those 2 jumpers might cause an open which shuts down your 24V power! Try sliding them out and back in. They are black. They are in the area circled in the photo above. You only have to remove I think 4 screws to get at those. You don't need to remove the board or flip it over - just get access to those 2 black things there.

Here you can see the latest UM3 PCB. Red circled area is where the safety1 and safety2 connectors used to be. Green circled area is U7. I have other photos from earlier days when UM3 *did* have connectors there and jumpers. Now signal PA6 from the arduino also arrives there but I think that is only to monitor the signal - not to flip K1 open. Because otherwise it would have to overdrive U7 and I don't think the arduino (actually atmega - whatever) has the power to overdrive U7. I didn't look up the specs. Yes - now U7 is gone but there are probably thousands of UM3's out there with U7 still installed. Probably over 10,000. So overriding K1 should be okay. I'm kind of surprised it doesn't blow up the stepper drivers but whatever. It doesn't. I guess it *is* slightly dangerous that you have 24V going to parts of that PCB even when power is switched "off". I've had my UM2 in that situation for years. It's off more than on but always connected to the 24V power supply.

I know, right? but not true. That circuit doesn't do anything. There are two connectors "safety 1" and "safety 2" also known as J16 and J17. On the UM2 there are jumpers in there that jumper the 2 pins together bringing 5V through both connectors to the chip U7. The idea is you can put a connector there and run it off to some safety equipment - maybe a fire alarm. But it's not really documented and no one has ever done it (most likely). In the UM3 they even removed the connectors and the circuitry! But left K1.

STL files have something called "normals" which tells cura which side of every triangle faces inwards towards plastic and which side faces outwards towards air. Unfortunately sketchup doesn't set these up by default. You have to fix them all. There's many options for you. I'm going to recommend one but there are faster solutions. So in sketchup in your first photo posted above - see how some of those hexagons are white and some are gray? See how the white ones worked okay and the gray ones didn't? That's because "gray" is facing "inside". You should never see gray on any face in sketchup. Unless you are inside the part. \ So right click on all those gray surfaces and select "reverse faces". That's it. I know you have to do about 100 so I can give you other options but that's probably the best option and it will teach you going forwards to always get your normals correct in sketchup. Here's a document to help you fix other problems you might have in sketchup along with some sketchup plugins to test your model: https://i.materialise.com/blog/3d-printing-with-sketchup/ By the way, most CAD programs will not even let you do this (create backwards normals). Because most CAD programs are for createing real things. Things you can pickup and touch. Whereas sketchup is designed for architectural models that you can look at only on the computer. However it can create "real things" if you follow all the rules in the above document.

How much filament? How much money? If it's over $1000 then go for the conversion until you use it up. If only say 10 spools don't bother. 3dsolex also sells a nice conversion kit. For the UM2+ you don't need to modify the feeder at all. That plus feeder is great. You don't need to modify the bowden either as long as you are printing super flexible stuff (like TPU or ninjaflex). You really just need a smaller teflon part. The 3dsolex kit gives you an olsson block with a smaller channel and that teflon part. In cura you can either try to convince in machine settings that your printer takes 1.75 filament (I did this once - not super simple) or you can just set flow rate to (2.85/1.75)^2 (265%). If it weren't a business I'd just sell the stuff at half price. I sell 3dsolex parts so I'm biased but the kit works quite well. But... don't do it unless it's a LOT of filament.

Here is a pdf of the schematic - K1 is on 3rd page upper center (area 4B). Just below K1 you can see where the 24V comes in "Supply connection". Anyway if you do the exact same jump as I did in the photo above it should fix your issue. Assuming the problem is with K1. I'm realizing as I look at the schematic again that this jump means 24V is always going to the stepper drivers even with power off but I guess it doesn't matter as I've been using this printer since 2014 and it still works great. This link takes you to both the schematic and the pcb layers - the copper layers and the text layers and the solder mask layers. No changes were made between UM2 and UM3 in this area of the board. zero. None. I can definitely see some key differences (UM3 has filament detection connectors? what?). K1 is typically a white box right near where the 24V comes in. https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker3/tree/master/PCB files/1548-I Ultimainboard/Schematics and layout pdf

Okay - you are losing 24V. 24V is used only for a few things: steppers heaters (bed and nozzles) some lights maybe some fans maybe The computers and display don't need the 24V. Like I said above, there is a white PCB under your printer. That is the failing board. One solution is to get a replacement. You can contact your reseller. If you are within warranty they should send it for free. Or you can fix it yourself. There is a relay on that board, K1. That relay is your problem. The relay isn't needed. You can just short it out so that 24V skips over the relay. I have a post and a video about this somewhere - let me look... So that's for a UM2 but the UM3 has a very similar board. The position of K1 might have changed. I'll go look for the UM3 white PCB schematic now. If I find it I will make another posting below.

That cable will not be listed on any websites however any company that sells UM3 printers can sell you that cable. So you will have to email the company.

Did you check the fan? If it's working I can give you a list of other possibilities.

Ah. Yes. Got it. Software isn't as smart as people. How the programmer detects "horizontal hole" in software is tricky and which walls of the hole to expand - also tricky. I would avoid this feature. Maybe change hole size in CAD instead. That's what they do in injection molding. Typically you send your CAD files to the manufacturing plant and they alter everything to make it work with injection molding. 90 degree corners are no longer 90 degrees and dozens of other little changes to the model. With 3d printing you kind of have to fix a few things like this yourself.

It could be some kind of short in the wiring. I'd give it a 10% chance. The LED flickering is normal even on a perfect power supply but maybe your flickering is worse than normal. Supplies to indeed go bad. It could be a damaged capacitor maybe? A non-working capacitor would cause excess flickering of the lights (bigger voltage drops) and also why the supply would choose to turn itself off. Please keep us informed. This information is great for other people with the same problem.

Oh I missed the "milky" thing. I don't know what that is. I can't really see it in your photo. It might be temperature related? I'm not familiar with this issue. I thought I'd seen every possible complaint about print quality but this is a new one for me. Oh - PETG. It could also be water in the filament. Maybe dry the filament before printing. PLA doesn't have any issues with water absorbtion but I seem to remember that PETG does. Read about how people dry filament using the heated bed. Caution - don't melt/ruin your filament nor spool. PETG can be melted at temperatures as low as 80 or 90C. Black glossy is the absolute best material for showing defects. Consider other colors. The combination of a dark color and the shiny surface lets you angle the part to the light just so. Such that you can see glints that show off tiny, normally invisible defects. Unfortunately, matte colors are rare in 3d printing and usually involve some kind of infill like sawdust or chalk.

I see 2 issues: underextrusion, combing. 1) First of all - the easy one - in the photo just above you have "strange lines in the top surface". Those are non-retraction travel moves. Non extruding moves that didn't do retraction. Also called "combing" moves. Turn off combing in skin. combing speeds up your print significantly but makes the top and bottom layers have those lines. combing mode set to not in skin 2) Underextrusion. This is more complicated. It could be you just don't have enough support. For good support of the top layers you want about 24% infill and about 5 top layers. Verify this is true in your settings. Sometimes the first layer on top of the support dips down a bit and then the next layer dips into where the previous layer was (but not as much) and it takes quite a few layers until you have a layer at the right height and then the final top layer has the exact right amount of space so that you have no underextrusion. More likely your issue is mechanical - the nozzle is slightly clogged or you are printing too cold or too fast or one of about 30 possibilities. Try just printing at half speed. You have maybe 10% underextrusion which is pretty common and mostly only noticable on the top layers. infill 24% 5 or more top layers cut all printing speeds (not travel speeds) in half 3) ironing. You can improve the top layer even more with ironing. Invented by someone who made parts similar to yours. Read only the neotko posts here - realize the early posts are in a different slicer (S3D) -he is the world expert on ironing since before it was an option in Cura - there's 3 pages of posts to read so only read the neotko posts: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/15213-neosanding-automatic-layer-sanding/

Ah! A bug. Okay. I haven't personally encountered this although I think someone else mentioned this in the past. Maybe post your 3mf and report this bug on github? it might already be an existing issue. Here's a quick search I did - nothing obvious looking only at titles of issues: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues?q=is%3Aissue+project+in%3Atitle To add a new issue you have to create a (free) github account. Ultimaker programmers pay far more attention to github versus the forum.

Excellent. Out of curiosity what did you set the power budget levels to?

In my experience horizontal holes always come out perfect already. I'm just wondering if that "ring" inside the cylinder is caused by something else - is that ring also visible in PREVIEW mode? I've seen many people use too much retraction or "z hop" either of which could cause that ring only where the horizontal hole is (because only at the hole does the printer potentially do a travel move with retraction).

These power supplies are too smart - they have a little computer in them and will shut off (better than starting a fire of course). Typically they only shut off for a fraction of a second but that's long enough for the UM2 computer to reboot. There is both voltage sensing and temperature sensing and possibly current sensing. I doubt it's the temperature. The power supply should never do this during normal printing on a UM2 and these supplies are known for failing so I strongly suspect it's the power supply. You have a few choices. One is to spend approx 90 euros/dollars for a new supply. There are 2 supplies sold with UM2 printers: GST220A24-R7B GS220A24-R7B The "T" one is newer and safer and MUCH more likely to shut down on you. I'm guessing you have the "T" one. The non "T" supply can put out significantly more power (maybe 10 or 20% more). A much cheaper option is to use firmware to limit the current. This also can be used to diagnose if you are right on the edge of failure (in other words lower power usage by 10% and if it never fails then you were previously near the limit of the supply and it wasn't a short circuit or anything like that but just normal use). Incidentally the bed uses less power at 100C because the hotter it is the higher the resistance (lower the wattage). Overall the bed uses more but if the bed is at 100% power temporarily it will use less power if it is hotter. Some people try to reduce these failures by setting the bed to a lower temp and the problem just gets worse. So the software you want to install is the latest tinkerMarlin found here: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases Make sure you get the right version (um2+ has feeder rotating backwards from um2). In this version of Marlin is a power budget system. Set the bed to 150W (that's what it's supposed to be I think) and set the nozzle to 25W (if you have 3rd party nozzle such as 3dsolex then set this to what is truth - what nozzle actually is). Then if you set the budget to 175W (150+25) the power budget won't do anything and the printer will work normal. If you lower the budget to 150W then the power budget will lower the power to the bed when the nozzle is on. This changes many times per second (adjustments of power to nozzle). All the remaining power goes to the bed if the bed wants it. So for example if you use 150/25/150 as I mention above and the nozzle is on at 50% (12.5 watts) then the bed will only be allowed 12.5 watts below budget (150-12.5 is 137.5 watts) and so the bed will never exceed 92% power at that time. This changes 20 times per second (nozzle asking for more then less power, bed occasionally restricted a little bit).