gr5

I run thegr5store.com in USA so I may have been the one to ship you that ruby nozzle - I don't remember and too lazy to go looking. But I've probably shipped you things in the past.

My prints are good enough that I never thought I needed to stiffen my print bed. I have 5 active UM printers although I use my um2go printers the most (3 of them) and they definitely have stiffer beds. The QR feeder has a screw and you have to unscrew it for a LONG time to get it open to slide new filament in and out. There is an option on the printer to "change filament" but I haven't used that in years. I don't have bondtech on my 5 most-used printers. It's on my printer that is doing fast printing (300mm/sec) experiments. That printer has my custom firmware on a BBB. Anyway, I like the DDG bondtech feeders better. I've sold those to customers so I'm pretty familiar but never installed it on one of my own printers as I can just do CF filaments on my S5.

40% fan seems high for ABS but all fans are different. Normally you want the minimum fan where it rotates. Which on some fans is 25% and on other's it's 1% and can be anywhere from 1% to 40%.

Funny - I was thinking 4mm retraction is too much for such a short bowden. If you retract too much then air can get in the print head and cause over extrusion and later underextrusion. You want the minimum retraction that relieves pressure. It's hard to tell in the photo but that looks pretty thin - extra thin stringing is extra hard to get rid of in settings and extra easy to remove. 10 seconds with your fingers and then apply a flame to that area of the part for about 1/8th of a second and the strings all retract into the walls magically. Try it! If you want zero stringing - one way is to lower the speed by about half. Try 30mm/sec for ALL the printing speeds. So decide: Do you want to save 60 minutes by printing faster and then have to clean up some strings (20 seconds) at the end? Or do you want to print 60 minutes slower but not have to spend 20 seconds cleaning up strings. Again - try the flame. By the way, having speeds of 100, 80, and 60mm/sec for different parts of the print just seems to be asking for trouble. Every speed change causes over or under extrusion.

I don't quite understand the question and should say ahoeben is an expert. However can't you just do "file" "save project..." in cura and later when you want to slice something else load that project first and then delete the model and add another model to slice instead? It seems like maybe you tried that but I'm not certain.

There are many possible causes but one that strikes me immediately is that the 3rd fan my not be rotating. In the print head there are 2 side fans but there is also a fan in the "door" of the print head. Make sure that's spinning when either core is above 60C.

You can get any part you want. If it's not listed on a website just contact them - all parts can be ordered - there's just too many to list on most websites. I think you've done a great job of replacing the key parts. Most notably the belts and the Z hardware. Which bondtech did you get? The QR - I'm not a huge fan as it's a pain to open and close all the time. It prints great. But it's less convenient. The DDR is much better but you need to buy Ultimaker 2+ feeder first. I'd much rather have the UM2+ feeder than a bondtech personally. A nice thing about having the bondtech however is that it can do carbon fill without ruining the feeder. And you can get a ruby nozzle from 3dsolex or Olsson ruby.

cut 2cm or an inch of filament off the end so that "bad spot" isn't inside the feeder while you are trying to print. If the paper is tearing then you are definitely leveling too low (too close to the bed). Are you using the calibration card? If the paper is torn on any of the 3 leveling spots then you have to replace it. The card needs to be between the paper and the nozzle. If you lost the calibration card you can just use normal printer paper. Level until you have just a little resistance that you can feel as you slide the paper around. I'll link you to a video demonstrating - this link should start you at 4:49 where I demonstrate leveling. It's for UM2 but it's the same for UM3 except there is an extra step for right core at the end. What material are you printing? PLA doesn't need adhesion sheets.

It's pretty much always a loose pulley. Especially if it's just one shift and a large shift. But there are other causes (overheating driver, too much friction). 90% of the time it's a loose pulley. To prove it you can mark the pulleys and shafts with a sharpy and next time it happens see if the pulley slipped on it's shaft. It's almost always the pulley on the motor (the hardest to get to). 2nd most common is the other pulley on that short belt. Slide head back and forth in the Y direction and notice which stepper moves. The printers often come with a green and black hex driver. It's possible to get it into the set screw on the pulley if you slide the head around a bit until it lines up perfectly. Without having to remove the metal cover or anything else. Tighten the hell out of that set screw. It should be scary tight - if you were to use a little L shaped allen wrench your fingers should have red marks and pain afterwards. Very tight. Then get the other pulley on the short belt.

PVA absorbs water from the air and when it does it goes bad quickly. At normal typical 50% humidity the last meter of filament (outer part on spool most exposed to air) goes bad in as little as 10 hours. In northern climates in the winter it can last several weeks. It also matters on the manufacturer as Ultimaker PVA supposedly lasts longer than most. If it's in really bad shape it will steam at pop and crackle as you print. You can see the steam coming out. But even without that it might have enough humidity to degrade performance. PVA comes out snowier when it has water in it and more clear/transparent when it is dry. If it's too dry it can actually crack but this is not a common problem. To dry your PVA take a small piece and put it on the heated bed with a towel or two over it and try 60C, 70C, 80C, 90C and see where it gets soft - if you bend it and it stays in the new shape. Then set the bed to just at this temp or slightly below and dry the whole spool with a 8 inches/200mm of blankets or towels on top for 8 to 20 hours. If you are in a rush and only need to print a few meters then you can unspool that much, put it on the bed with spool on top and heat it for just an hour or two. Again with at least one towel on top.

Please include photos. With arrows to what you don't like. Maybe the quality you are getting is already better than most people could expect or maybe your quality is truly bad. I have no idea. As far as printing settings, any Nylon profile should work fine. Personally I print 0.2mm layers. My prints are functional and I don't care if layer lines are visible. In my opinion the quality is great but I'm sure other people would say it looks like garbage. I care about dimensional accuracy more than how it looks so my settings may be completely incompatible with yours (there are tradeoffs among accuracy, prettiness, speed). Nylon has to be kept amazingly dry. If it's very wet it will pop and sizzle and you can see steam coming out of the nozzle. But even if it doesn't sizzle it might be just humid enough to lower quality. non-fill nylon will be glossy smooth and if there is no dye it will also be transparent on the bottom layer. wet nylon comes out more snowy. Two days sitting on the back of my printer is enough to "ruin" a spool of nylon although it's easy enough to dry it (gee where can I find a thermally controlled bed to leave the nylon sitting on for overnight? Put it in a box or under a few towels and be very careful not to go too hot - but most nylons can handle 100C fine so I dry nylon at 80C)

wow! I don't use auto level on my UM3. If I don't change cores it will hold perfect level for months. It takes me all of 30 seconds to do a manual level now (yes, both cores) but even for a beginner it shouldn't take more than 3 minutes. The first part with the "1mm above" I just skip over those 3 points. Those are just to protect the nozzle hitting something. The only time I do that is when I've taken the bed apart and put it back together (once every few years I do that one one printer and I have 5 active printers). Anyway here's my point: after you do manual leveling and it's printing the first layer, if it's not printing, push down on the glass with your finger. If it suddenly starts extruding then you levelled too close but you don't need to manual level - just turn the 3 screws tighter on the fly. If it's still not printing, try pushing the bed up into the nozzle as well (just try it - sometimes it's too far and won't print well as the filament sticks to the nozzle instead of the bed).

Strange - they should be consistent. By the way - a travel speed of 60 is crazy slow. Try 300 maybe? Your printer should limit that speed automatically to what it is capable of. I'm thinking maybe your inner walls are printing faster because they are thinner - to equalize the filament flow. So you could uncheck "equalize filament flow" but then the quality might go down. Instead I recommend you make all the walls the same thickness: Set the wall thickness to an integral value of the line width. So if line width is 0.4mm make wall thickness 0.4 or 0.8 or 1.2 or 1.6, etc. not 1mm or 1.5mm. Basically make all the line widths the same including infill. Make sure all the flows are at 100% as well.

1) Are these printing "all at once" where it prints one layer of all 4 parts and then moves up a layer and prints the next layer of all 4 parts? Or are you printing one-at-a-time and the problem is only on the final model? 2) Cura has an amazing plugin to test your model to see if something is wrong with it and can repair a very few of the many potential problems: In the upper right corner of Cura click "marketplace" and make sure you are on the "plugins" tab and install "Mesh Tools". Then restart Cura. Now right click on your model, choose "mesh tools" and first choose "check mesh", then "fix model normals" to see if that helps. Cura doesn't fix most issues so... My guess is that your normals are backwards on the top surface. Maybe. 3) If #2 doesn't fix it, then please post your project file: go to menu "file" "save...". The resulting file contains not only your STL but the scaling, positioning. Also it has your machine (printer) settings, your material settings, your profile used, and settings that you overrode. Please post that here.

I don't know how to help you. I can't open that project file. Maybe try again? "file" "save...".

It should not. So I'm thinking there is a problem with your Z positioning. Just try turning off z-hop. It should be avoided on 99% of printers. It's very useful on delta printers. Since your issue is on the very first layer you should know quite quickly if that's the problem, right? Please show some photos of the problem because I've found that very often people describe a problem and later when they post a picture I realize I COMPLETELY misunderstood what they were trying to say.

Two theories I came up with... Your retraction could be too large - it may be when it does the first retraction you retract too much and you get air in the nozzle and that causes underextrusion issues (and also over extrusion in other areas but the basic problem is the part doesn't stick). Or maybe you have z hop turned on (turn it off!). Which has your Z approach the "first layer height" from the other direction and due to backlash/play you are now too high off the print bed.

I believe most resellers have such instructions, yes.

No keyboard shortcut. If you click the control then you can use Ctrl+left arrow but only if you click it. If it isn't showing the horizontal slider it's not because it can't - it's on purpose because there is something about showing the "play" feature that won't work for your version of the openGL graphics library (like the transparency of the nozzle that it draws). The solution is usually to upgrade your graphics card driver but in your case it used to work. In windows there are places where you can see what was updated recently, applications, drivers, and system updates should all have a place where you can see the upgrade history.

I thought it already was a 24V machine? What is the voltage? The wattage of the heater is V*V/R where V is the voltage and R is the resistance.

I'd disassemble it but that might violate your warranty. Talk to your reseller immediately. I suspect only they can give you permission to disassemble it. What country are you in?

Do you have the vertical slider on the right? Sometimes I have to move the vertical to get the horizontal it seems maybe?

I couldn't open the project file. What version of cura were you using when you created the project file (the 3mf file)?

Maybe he can melt away the mold?

Yes but if you swap the cables usually you want to swap the limit switches also such that it will home properly? And when you go to print a part it will be mirror image backwards. I think. It will be flipped along a diagonal "mirror line" from the front left to the right rear of the printer.