gr5

With power off try pushing the X and Y axes around and see if there is higher friction somewhere. Is the printer rebooting when this happens? Does it go back to the same screen as if you unplugged and plugged in the printer? You may be overloading your power supply. Also there is a bug/feature in cura that it can move extremely slow on extruder retractions. You may have "discovered" this feature in cura but I would expect it to happen on every clip. But the solution is to change retraction speed in cura from 0 to 40.

The bottom of your model isn't all at the same level. You have a few options. Usually when this happens to me I go with the simplest option. I go to menu item "preferences" "configure cura" then uncheck "automatically drop models to the build plate" then click on the model in cura so it is selected and on the left side of the screen select the icon to "move" the part then set the z value to a negative value. This will chop off a bit of the bottom of the part. You might only have to chop off 0.1mm. (set Z to -0.1) but typically I have to cut off at least 1mm. Depending on the model. I suspect the reason the results are different in S3D is probably that your bottom layer height in cura is 0.27mm and 0.3mm in S3D. If this is true then you can go with method 2 which is to increase bottom layer height until it includes enough of the model A third option is to fix the model so that everything that you want to start on the first layer... starts on the first layer.

sketchup is not great at making 3d models but you can do it if you follow these tips: https://i.materialise.com/blog/3d-printing-with-sketchup/

The ends of each line above require slightly different amounts of plastic. I believe some other slicers actually do worry about this issue. If you assume there are never non-extruding moves then it only matters at the very start of the print and the very end. But of course there are lots of non-extruding moves. Like when filling gaps in walls. I believe I read somewhere that slic3r or maybe s3d takes into account the roundedness of the start and/or end of each trace. I suppose this would be good particularly for huge printers with say 100mm (4 inch) nozzles and larger.

So Cura does care if the filament is round versus if the filament is square because it calculates the flow coming out of the nozzle assuming that it knows the diameter of the filament going into the feeder and it knows the linear distance the filament has moved so it calculates the volume of filament extruding that way. Cura doesn't care about the diameter of the nozzle - it assumes that the volume of filament going through the feeder matches that coming out of the nozzle (no leaks). This is absolutely true. Cura relies on you telling it a reasonable value for line width. A value similar to your nozzle width.

More about this problem and solution here:

getting max volume out of cura set "travel avoid distance" to zero. disable brim and skirt both! more settings/details here: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/44677-maximum-build-volume-ultimaker-2-plus-ultimaker-3

lol. You probably have the wrong firmware. The UM2 and the UM2+ feeders run in opposite directions. So you probably got the wrong firmware. Also do a "factory reset" as sometimes when you downgrade or cross-grade the firmware it doesn't carry forward the eeprom values and a "factory reset" fixes this so that you have the correct directions for all the extruders. ALSO Seriously consider getting the tinker firmware instead of the Ultimaker version. The tinker version is much better with amazing features like the ability to reverse the feeder without installing different firmware and the ability to continue a failed print and much more. Tinker marlin is here: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases

Do you mean "compressive modulus"? More importantly, what do you mean by "without any infill patterns"? Please realize that you can set infill percentage to zero (0%) which means no pattern. Or you can set it to 100% (solid infill). Does that answer your question?

In my experience it matters what order you insert objects into cura. I was printing my own custom tower and I had to insert the tower first and it would move to the tower after each nozzle change. Positioning left/right didn't seem to make any difference.

If you want to print much faster, it's best to go with larger nozzles.

I just noticed when zooming in that the "top" surface on the inside of your box also has underextrusion by about 30% (30% gap between each line).

That's picture perfect, typical underextrusion. So now you know what it's called. But we still need to fix it. First thing I would try is to lower the speed by 50%. It's only extruding about half what needs to extrude so I would cut the speed by about 50%. Also set *all* the speeds the same. Everytime you speed up, you get underextrusion for a little while until things balance out again. So also make all the speeds the same (infill, inner shell, outer shell) and make them all half what the outer shell speed was. At least as a test. Also you could look at the model in slice view and see what happens just before this underextrusion. maybe it's a layer change or something that might give a hint to the issue. You might want to try your other core (your printer should have come with two AA 0.4 cores) to see if the problem is with the core.

Ideally you should fix the model in 3dmax but alternatively you could try repairing it with netfabb. netfabb free repair service is here (you have to create a free account first): https://service.netfabb.com/login.php

I believe outer shells are always CCW and inner shells (holes) are CW. I don't think it's possible to change this.

This is solved. I'm closing this thread. The solutions are posted on the first page of this thread. Here is a link to two of the solutions:

Looks like a bug. You might want to create the support for that cylinder in CAD instead of relying on cura to create the support. You only have to support the end of the cylinder. Not the entire length. so you could add a little post there under the end of that cylinder.

I still don't know what you are talking about. Can you show one with "shifting" and one without? Usually when people talk about shifting it's a problem where a stepper misses a step and the entire part shifts to a new X or Y location such that the bottom half doesn't line up with the top half. LIke this: https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#shifted

Your problem is most likely you aren't squishing enough. Or maybe the bed is dusty (you have to clean it once per month) but here's a video showing how to make your parts stick like hell. My parts don't come loose. No warping. Ever.

I'm back from vacation. So it's just printing it solid? Either the model isn't water tight or there is a problem with the "normals". An STL file consists of a list of unordered triangles with normals and the normals tell you which side of each triangle faces air and which side faces solid plastic. I would try sending the part through netfabb first. netfabb free repair service is here (you have to create a free account first): https://service.netfabb.com/login.php Also you can play with the settings in mesh fixes settings of cura. Enable all of them so you can see them all and maybe uncheck all of them? What kind of cad software do you use? Someone here will be an expert. Most cad software makes perfect STL files every time but some (like sketchup) allow you to have unconnected, infinitely thin walls. And in those CAD software you have to be careful there are no gaps or cracks. Most CAD software won't let you create non-solids but a few do. Also try viewing the part in xray mode (go to preview mode in the top center, then in the top left switch to xray mode). If you see any red then those are problem spots.

I don't see the layer shift. The legs seem to match the view from cura. Can you point an arrow very accurately to exactly the problem spot?

Cura knows to offset the lines by half the nozzle width. So that's not it. However vertical holes are always printed too small. Add around 0.4 or 0.5mm to every vertical hole diameter in CAD. Also other things you can do to improve other dimensions: Make all printing speeds the same and around 35mm/sec or even 25mm/sec for super accurate. Disable jerk and acceleration control (this will make ringing worse but will make dimensions more accurate).

Can you show a photo? I'm on vacation and don't have cura installed here. Try setting the line width to 0.1mm just to see what happens. In general wall should be 2X line widht but if you enable "print thin walls" or use a small nozzle you can print thinner things. Alternatively the model might just not be water tight.

In machine settings uncheck the box that says "origin at center". That is for delta machines. I don't think you have a delta machine. That will make all the X, Y and Z values >= 0.

If the filament has been ground down, then yes that fixes the problem. However if you hit "continue" and it starts printing just fine then pushing the filament through the feeder (with the lever up) will not help. Did you try looking at the "temperature graph"? It can help you realize which feeder is the problem for one thing. You can also see the problem before it stops the printer.