gr5

You need to set up the printer such that Z=0 means the nozzle touches the build plate and Z=10 means the nozzle is 10mm away from the build plate. Period. It's okay for the homing position to be at Z=200 if that's what you need to do but it's NOT okay for Z to ever go negative. Z=10 does NOT specify if something is moving up or down. It specifies the distance between nozzle and bed. So Z=20 may be "higher" or "lower" than Z=10. But Z=20 is definitely "nozzle farther from bed".

For the last year or so I just put the spool on the table behind the printer. Spool holders are over-rated. Those feeders on the um2, um3, s5 can pull 10 to 20 pounds (5 to 10kg) An extra ounce (30 grams) of force to rotate the spool on my table is not an issue.

I would go with a nylon. I'd pick the least flexible nylon you can find. Ultimaker brand nylon is good. Look at the "young's modulus" aka "tensile modulus" aka "flexural modulus" (same thing but measured differently). Every filament has a spec sheet so google the brand and the word "modulus" and you can usually find a pdf. I have a graph showing modulus and strength of many materials. Going to the right is stiffer and going up is stronger. All the nylons are flexible enough. PLA and ABS are too stiff and too brittle for a hockey stick. I would start with taulman 910 or ultimaker nylon. Here's my graph - you can click and drag to zoom in: http://gr5.org/mat/ In my graph heading to the right is stiffer (it's a log scale). Heading upwards is stronger (less critical for a hockey stick). A note about printing higher temp materials like nylon. If you get bad layer adhesion you won't know it until it breaks and it will break along layer lines. Nylon should NEVER BREAK ALONG LAYER LINES. If it does then you printed it wrong. You need to lower the fan a lot. And you need to completely enclose (or mostly enclose a few hand sized holes are fine) the printer to get the air up to 35 to 40C. And lower the fan to 1/3 to 1/10th normal speed. This will help with curling corners but more importantly will help each new layer adhere (melt to) the layer below.

abrasion resistant? Often that just means slippery. Can you provide more details? These are typically opposite requirements. You want it to be a bit flexible to be impact resistance. Because flexibility means you can spread the load around. If you go extreme (like rubber band) then you can drive a car over it or smash it with a sledge. But even just a little more flexible means more impact resistance. But abrasion resistant you usually want it as hard as possible which will also make it brittle. Typically. I mean diamond and ruby are very hard and very good impact resistance. But there aren't any 3d printing filaments like that, lol. Please explain how you would use the part or what it is exactly. Is it like a gear? What is it that you want to make?

Oh wait I figured it out. Okay well the filament isn't sticking to the glass. Is the glass bed warm? check that with your finger. Also put a little glue stick on the glass and spread that with a wet tissue and wait for it to dry. But most important the nozzle is probably too far from the glass. Try pushing up on the bed while it's doing that and the filament should start sticking to the glass. If that works then turn the 3 leveling screws counter clockwise (to move the bed up) an equal amount. Maybe a half turn.

That link to that video doesn't work for me.

Oh! yeah the link is broken. This might work: https://www.imade3d.com/resources/Cura/Older Versions/Cura 2.6.2/

https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software/list

This used to be a common way for temp sensors to fail although lately I haven't seen a bad temp sensor in over a year (I have tested hundreds). You can't use solder in a temp sensor because it will melt (the old lead solder melts around 250C and lead free solder melts around 200C so neither are useful). So instead the wires are crimped to the temp sensor. When you heat it up metal expands and if the crimp isn't tight enough the resistance suddenly starts increasing (which makes it look like the temperature increased even though it didn't). Anyway you need a new temp sensor. shop3d.ca sells them in canada. I sell them in usa.

Putting on new slider blocks is not easy. I built a custom tool/jig (out of a block of wood and nails I think) to do it as it was difficult. Some people do it in place on the printer: pop open the old ones, pop on the new one in place. It didn't occur to me to do this. I spoke with someone who does this professionally (changed dozens of printers from white to black blocks) and he said he takes the gantry completely apart and does it the way I did it. I don't know which is easier though.

What kind of file did you put on the USB? I'm guessing you did "file" "save" which saves a 3mf project file. This is great and is useful so you can load everything into cura later (models, positions of models, settings, everything) but not the file you use to print with. You want to print the ufp file. To save that you click in the bottom right corner instead - on first "prepare" and then click on the down arrow and change it to "save to file" and then click that blue button and save it somewhere and then copy that file to the USB.

there should be a profile drop down where you can choose for example "Draft 0.2". There should be a star there. Click that start. This shows you all the deviations from the standard profile. Look for settings and values in italics in the lower right corner of that dialog. Make sure you click both the "global settings" tab at the top of that table and the "extruder" tab(s). Look carefully at all the settings you have changed that are different from the standard settings. All the ones that are italic in the current column are modified.

The black ones shouldn't wear out but the white ones do. Are there cracks in the blocks? If so then yes definitely it's a simple fix.

You didn't say what kind of printer this is. Is this a UM3 with white blocks? If so then this is a known problem and contact your reseller and they will send you free replacements. Or contact igo3d. The white blocks crack. UM switched to black blocks that work much better over a year ago.

What kind of printer is this?

So on the S5 there is a lever on the feeder. I just raise the lever, slide out the old filament, slide in the new, then push pretty hard until the color changes then back off 1cm and lower the lever. You are now good to go. That's how I always change filament even between prints. I don't have a good reason for doing it that way. I just like doing it myself.

When I do a nozzle change there is a feature on my printers that allows me to extrude a bit before resuming printing. Maybe you have the same thing? Which printer?

Good news! The feature already exists. Use Ctrl+up arrow and Ctrl+down arrow. It's important that keyboard focus is somewhere in the graphical area and not on a setting. For example if you click and drag the slider first, then use ctrl+up or ctrl+down

Try turning off autolevel to see if the problem goes away. If it is indeed an autolevel problem, flip open the front door on the print head and look in the base of the head and there should be a white, flat circuit board with 2 wires going to it. Check that both wires are connected. Also remove the rear panel at the top of the print head by removing the two long screws and then it just pops off. Push down firmly on the cable in there, and then put it back together.

This is a common failure called a "head flood" although I've never experienced it personally. The fix is to use a heat gun or hair dryer to heat up the red plastic and remove it gradually in many steps using pliers or other tools. Try not to break any wires but know that it's relatively cheap to get replacement parts. Even though replacement parts are not listed at your resellers website, they have every part of the um3 for sale separately and in particular the plastic parts are quite cheap so if you break something you may have to contact them. If you don't mind having your printer unavailable for a week and refuse to fix it yourself and the printer is still in warranty you might be able to get the reseller to fix it for you. There are two possible causes. One cause is that the door popped open. Make sure the door magnets are touching the two vertical screws when it is closed and isn't so loose that it might vibrate open. More commonly the cause is that you printed something that was wider than tall and it came loose from the print bed. The part then slides around the print bed like a hockey puck with the nozzle stuck on one spot of your print and filament oozing out for hours. The solution for this is to get your parts to stick better. It's important to wash your glass clean about once per month. Here are all the important tricks you need to know such that your part will *never* come loose from the glass during a print. It's a long video but packed with important details and why these tricks are important.

@RudydG - you should have read the start of this topic. You don't need any UM3 electronics and you can use UM2 firmware as is.

The words in that aliexpress store item are identical (stolen) from my web page. You should ignore the words as you don't need anything else. Here's the thing in my store (which I am sold out of and I'm having trouble getting more): https://thegr5store.com/store/index.php/mark2-dual-print-upgrade-kit.html

I'm told that the plastic parts for the UM3 print head are quite cheap and available but the electronic parts are more expensive. Besides they are designed to work with the UM3. You need to just connect the outer 4 contacts on the core to the existing temp sensor and heater cables.

If you can do the letters on the bottom layer then it will come out nicer than gluing them and you could change the filament. It's complicated though and easier to do I think if there is no auto leveling (like on a UM2). I guess it depends how large the letters are. A photo would be helpful. This shows the word "Paul" in red and then in a separate print (with no auto leveling between) I changed the filament and printed a white part on top. The white part was thicker and didn't know where the letters were. It came out great.

No because it will then do another auto level and make a mess of the existing part. Instead slice 2 (or more) parts in cura at the same time.