gr5

@whoneyc - what are you printing? If it has tons of retractions that could be the issue. Look at the part in layer view and check the "blue" checkbox to see travel moves - the lighter blue lines (lilac?) are retraction moves [correction - the other way around - dark blue are retraction]. If you have too many of those on the same spot of filament you will get the grinding you describe. Or if you just print too fast and too cold you will get grinding. If you have too many retractions on the same piece of filament you can grind it to dust. 10 is usually safe. 20 is in the danger zone. 50 should guarantee failure. You can tell cura to limit retractions to 10 per a given spot of filament. Do this by setting "maximum retration count" to 10 and "minimum extrusion distance" to your retraction distance (4.5mm for UM2 and 6.5 for UM3). Maybe you should post how fast you are printing to see if you are going too fast (things speed up on the second layer). Please post layer height print speed (all of them) line width (all of them) nozzle size (is it AA 0.4?) nozzle temperature (all of them)

That's never happened to me. Although I haven't used this feature in a year I can safely say it's a very reliable feature on a working printer. For one thing you can just squeeze that lever on the feeder and slide the filament in by hand the second half (that's how I do the entire filament load anyway). Actually I use this tool: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/wedgebot-for-ultimaker2 Okay so what is wrong with your printer. Well I can think of 3 things: 1) Your bowden is too long. Seems unlikely. 2) steps/mm is set wrong for the extruder. This seems unlikely because didn't you imply that sometimes it works perfectly? 3) The extruder is losing steps at top speed. Pay particular attention and listen carefully as it feeds. Does it slowly ramp up speed (the extruder) and then at some point stop extruding but make a strange noise and then the noise lowers in pitch and it starts extruding again as it's slowing down? if so then your max extruder speed might be set too high or there may be some very high friction in the bowden - maybe some thin string of pla is jamming things up? I'm not sure. But the wedgebot above can help you feel if there is something clogged in your bowden. If this was a UM2 I'd assume you had the um2go firmware on there but that's impossible I think for the UM3.

What are all your line widths and what is your nozzle width - this is very important. Also what kind of printer is it? Also are you sure it's 300mm/s/s acceleration? That's very slow. That alone could explain the problem because it would have to slow down A LOT for the corners and sit there and over extrude then slowly build up back speed and underextrude coming out of the corners. It's probably not this but make sure "retract at layer change" is unchecked. I'm thinking it's probably underextruding everywhere it's just worse on this corner. I would have the machine extrude exactly 100mm and see how far the filament actually moves and maybe change the steps/mm (in other words calibrate the extruder).

I think you know the answer but here you go: "yes, the motherboard is fried". Most importantly the cpu and the stepper drivers. You need to get a whole new one. You should be able to get one for about $30. For the SD card, get this one: https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Memory-SDSDUN-008G-G46-Newest-Version/dp/B00M55BS5O/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1523798720&sr=8-6&keywords=4gb+sd+card It's tempting to get 2 but don't. You'll never use the second one.

Oh and about the different slicers. I thought I answered that one. It's really really complicated. There are dozens of parameters that if you change will make almost no difference in your print but will cause the printer to experience much higher accelerations. Higher accelerations means a loose pulley is more likely to slip on the shaft. In both cura and s3d. For example if you print a cube with rounded corners and there are 20 points representing a 1mm curve at a corner. Some slicers will put all 20 points into the gcode which will bring the printer almost to a stop and you get lower accelerations. Some slicers (cura) will remove some of those points if they are closer than a certain tolerance (there is a setting) and the printer won't slow down so much on the corner. This is not the best example. Plus Marlin (the UM firmware) has some bugs where it accelerates more than desired. I mean you know it's a bit of a hack just by the fact it has 2 (TWO!) max acceleration values. Typically most UM printers have one set to 5000mm/sec/sec and the other is 9000mm/sec/sec. Why does it need 2? It tries to stick to the lower value but sometimes the planner exceeds the lower value but then it truly promises not to exceed the second value? Why? It's complicated. Again - spend 10 hours reading the code if you really want to know. Just the path planner code - not all of Marlin. Don't worry about the slicers. The slicers are fine. Fix the printer.

Yes. Well there are 2 screws holding the cover over the Y stepper. And then 4 screws holding the stepper in place. Although if you really try you might be able to tighten it without taking anything apart and save yourself 5 minutes. You really have to tighten that one pulley. It doesn't take too long to get to it. Maybe 5 minutes. Much faster than doing a 1 hour print only to have it get ruined again. Also - when you *do* tighten it, mark the shaft and pulley with a sharpie so you can see if I was wrong. But 95% of the time it's one of the two pulleys on the short belt.

It's not a simplify3d proglem. It's a pulley-slipping-on-shaft problem. It takes 5-10 minutes to fix depending on if you have to take the cover of (2 screws) and the motor out (4 screws) versus just do it from above (you can push the head around by hand to get the set screw to line up). Regarding the stepper driver - they are under the printer. The steppers don't have any electrical components other than 2 coils of wire. I mean if you live someplace warm like India. Or Egypt. And don't have air conditioning. Then I would suspect the air temp first and lower the stepper driver current. It's adjustable for this exact reason as they get very hot. Hot enough to boil water. The steppers also get pretty hot but not as hot as the drivers I think. 80C is a common temp for the steppers and they can handle that easily.

Marlin is very complicated (the firmware in your printer). I could explain why different slicers are going to have different results but it would take an hour. If you really want to know spend at least 10 hours going over the motion planner and slowly all will become clear why changing the angles on two consecutive moves, moving Z axis while moving X, changing speeds slightly, can make all the difference on how much actual acceleration is happening. The short answer is slight changes in gcode can make large changes in acceleration and the higher the acceleration the more likely you will have a pulley slip. The solution is to tighten the hell out of your pulleys. All 6 on the slipping axis. I think that looks like your Y axis. Make sure you have a 2mm hex driver (the same driver as for all the other screws on the printer) and tighten those set screws VERY tight. So tight you are scared something will break. Usually it's one of the two on the short belt and really it's usually the one on the stepper motor. If you use a L shaped allen wrench your fingers should hurt after. If you don't believe me then mark the shaft and pulley on the stepper motor with a sharpie and next time it fails look at the markings and you'll see they slipped. There's also a tiny possibility (5%) that the problem is your stepper driver is overheating. If you are printing in a hot room (e.g. 30C) then I'd lower the X/Y current to 1000ma (it's a setting in the menu system if you have tinker marlin installed - probably not an option with the standard UM firmware). You can verify this is the problem by removing the bottom cover, printing with a book under one side of the printer (tilted - yes you can even print upside down - it doesn't matter) and having a table fan blow air under there. But 95% chance you have to tighten a set screw.

No ideas. I have been 3d printing with ultimakers for 5 years and figured out how to stop the leaking long ago (for example print cooler and slower) I've never needed extra prime and don't know what "scalable" extra prime is for. I never liked the extra prime feature - it implies you are leaking in the first place or something else is wrong with your hardware.

You have a little circuit board on top of the print head. For me the problem was at the green terminal connector where the two wires go into that from the thermocouple. Check those first. One of those was loose. Also I had another temp failure on my UMO because I wasn't using the cable relieve part. Do you have a volt meter? Basically there are 3 wires going into this ad595 board on top of the UMO. one is ground, one is 5v, and one is a signal going back to the printer. That "signal" wire is 0V for 0C and 5V for 500C and everything in between so at room temp (20C) it should read 200mv. Make sure the 5V signal is steady and jiggle the wires and if it is then try that signal going back next. If that's steady then the problem is closer to the arduino somewhere.

This is a cad setting. STL files contain only triangles. Assuming like most cad software your software stores an object internally as a circle (or cylinder/cone/sphere) but when you export to STL there should be options to control how much precision you want for your circles and all surfaces. At that moment your circles are likely getting chopped up into multiple segments.

Oh and set the tension right in the middle PLA and most other filaments.

The Um2 "plus" (plus is key) are much less likely to get underextrusion than other printers. If it's not brand new and if this problem is recent then I'd change the nozzle and the Teflon part as tinker says above. Also the wrong cura settings can easily cause underextrusion. You could try posting all of those - the key ones are: layer height, print speed (all layer heights and all print speeds), line width (all line widths) and temperature but that's set on the printer. Also try a cold pull. It's complicated to explain but easy to do. A cold pull will clean the nozzle from the inside - there could be sand, dust, pieces of nylon, etc in the nozzle. Cold pull (also known as "atomic pull" or "atomic method"): https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/10-the

how thick? Try setting the line width to half the wall thickness. What happens? Did you try the "print thin walls" option? What happens?

I can't tell if you have underextrusion or if the tops just aren't thick enough. How many top layers are there ("top thickness" divided by layer height)? And what is your layer height? It's not underextrusion because it looks fine at the base of the walls.

I'm pretty sure the walls are too think. Try setting the line width to 0.1mm just as a test. The walls should show up. You might want to try the "print thin walls" option which will allow you to print down to about .4mm walls with a .4mm line width. A .4mm nozzle can go safely down to line widths of 0.35 and even .3mm without too much deterioration in quality. You might need a 0.25mm nozzle though or a .15mm nozzle or a .1mm nozzle (from 3dsolex - I sell this in USA in my store at thegr5store.com). Or you might just want to make the walls in this design thicker.

Try saving on the hard drive and then moving it from there to the SD card. I always do that anyway because I want to save these forever so if someone a year for me asks about my settings I have it saved. The settings are saved at the end of the gcode file.

If you buy an AA .25 from ultimaker and later decide to go smaller then you would have saved a lot of money by going for the hardcore as it's cheaper than buying two UM cores and you can change nozzles. If I were making jewelry that small (rings versus pendants) I would have gone with a resin printer (sla or dlp). I do indeed sell 0.1 and 0.15 nozzles. You can cheat a bit - tell Cura to do a 0.3mm line with even though you have a 0.4mm nozzle. It works pretty well. At some point it looks like crap as you keep lying about the nozzle size. So similarly you can certainly print line widths of 0.2mm with a 0.25mm nozzle. But you can't go down forever. I've printed some amazingly small stuff. For FDM or FFF printing (where you melt plastic and squeeze it out a nozzle) you can only go so far and your UM printers can do it as well as any FDM printer if you go smaller nozzles. But the resin printers take it to a whole new level of detail. Especially the DLP ones which can "zoom" to ever finer resolutions. You could also consider using your UM to do 2X scale practice models and then use 3dhubs or shapeways to build the actual final product.

I'm guessing it's more about the time zone. Mine keeps perfect time but it's in UTC which is basically the time in England but without daylight savings. It connects to a time server regularly on the internet so is extremely accurate. Here is an article for setting the time zone. This worked for my UM3: https://linuxacademy.com/blog/linux/changing-the-time-zone-in-linux-command-line/ To get into the computer in your UM3 use ssh: ssh root@1.2.3.4 (where 1.2.3.4 is the ip address of your um3 - it has to be in developer mode) password is "ultimaker". If you don't know ssh I suppose maybe it's time to learn? Or maybe you should just not bother? On windows I use putty. On linux or Mac you can use ssh directly from command line.

I believe Ultimaker stopped selling the heated bed upgrade about a year ago but some resellers still have it. What country are you in? I hate to play favorites but In USA try dynamism, fbrc8, 3duniverse, matterhackers, printedsolid. There might be a chinese knock off version - try ebay and aliexpress.

If tension is too high you get grinding because it can't get a good bite into the filament. If tension is too tight you can get grinding as well. You want it right in the middle - half way down on the indicator. Other things can cause grinding such as printing too fast or problems with the machine. I wouldn't worry about it unless you are getting underextrusion on the part.

I doubt you are missing a spacer. Instead, you probably need to loosen a pulley and slide it to its limit (but not so tight that you add friction).

First of all cut it to a point. Not straight. If you do only one cut then cut at an angle and make the longest part of the filament on the outside of the curve of the filament. But I usually do 2 cuts. Secondly I recommend you load the filament manually using the wedgebot: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/wedgebot-for-ultimaker2 I haven't used the menu system to load/unload filament in over a year.

HEATER ERROR means it had the heater at full power for 30 seconds and the nozzle didn't increase by 5C. If it is reading at 20C when this happens then the heater is broken. If it reads around 90C when this happens (not 5 minutes later but right when it happens) then it's more likely the sensor that needs replacing. If it happens when the fans come on and at temps > 200C it usually means the fans are blowing on the block or the block is touching the aluminum shroud. Usually, if it's the sensor you will also see the temp jumping around a lot or climbing much faster than one possible (100C in 2 seconds). Often the temp sensor works fine at room temp but when you heat it up something expands and a contact starts to open up.

I didn't notice that. That's the problem right there. One of your pulleys is loose. One of the 6 Y pulleys.