gr5

It's my "neighbor", Kevin! Hi there! I don't think Cura does anything with the "outer diameter" yet. not sure. The old cura (versions 14.X and 15.X) indeed had a nozzle diameter but it was a confusing feature because if you told cura you had a 0.45mm nozzle but set the shell width to 0.8mm it would ignore your 0.45mm and set it's internal line width to 0.4mm. At least now you can set the line width directly. I feel that is an improvement. I had to tell people thousands of times on the forum to set the shell width to an integral of the nozzle width or cura would override your settings to suit it's needs. So really the only thing you need to set is all the various "line width" settings in cura 2.X and 3.X. No need to create your own custom profile. However if you want a 3dsolex core to show up as "AA 1.0" or "HC 1.0" and want to create profiles to auto load your settings - I can help you with that. I already have software that does most of the work to do that. You could just make a small change and it will create all the profiles for an alternate UM3 core in seconds.

We still don't know the scale of the roughness. How small do the holes have to be in diameter? Can they be 3mm holes? 1mm holes? 0.1mm holes? (UM definitely will have trouble going smaller than .1mm). 1mm holes is very doable.

No he wants to know how big these structures are. Are they 1mm apart? 0.1mm apart? That's a 10X difference and it matters. Does it have to be porous such that gas or liquid passes easily through? Does it just have to be a rough surface such that paint or glue would stick well? It sounds like you want a smooth surface as felt by fingers but rough surface on a smaller scale. Is that right? If so then maybe you would want a nozzle with a bump on the tip that can cut groves in the part as it prints. UM2 and UM3 can swap nozzles (or cores) such that you could manufacture one with a needle or something sticking down. You wouldn't want it sticking down more than .2mm (the typical height nozzle is off glass on bottom layer printing).

For cura versions 14.X and 15.X it's easy - save your profile into an ini file (it's under the file menu). Then there is a simple and obvious rule to translate all settings into the "substitution variables" you describe. For example I think "Print Time" goes to "print_time". Something like that. The rule is something like "make everything lower case and add underscores for spaces'. Something like that. I don't remember anymore. I'm not sure how to get the variable names in cura 2.X and 3.X

I agree. Set all printing speeds to 30mm/sec and see how that infill looks.

You can bet BB nozzles from your reseller, or from fbrc8.com or 3duniverse or a whole suite of resellers. Or I can sell you a 3dsolex core: thegr5store.com

I think infill doesn't ever do retraction. The thinking is that it's okay to string inside the part and retracting drastically slows things down. But maybe you need to route some hardware through this infill? If so maybe you need to model the passages in CAD?

@BJC contacted me privately and says he removed bowden both ends and remove material. You should be good to go. If you really want to proceed cautiously (not necessary) you can heat the core up manually through the menu system to 180C (a good temp for pla testing) and then just slide some new filament in while holding the feeder lever. Then keep pushing and some should come out the nozzle. You have to push very hard - hard enough to lift the printer - if you want to push as hard as the feeder does but at 180C you should be able to get it to come out slowly without that much force. This also gives you an idea of the forces involved. Your next print should be the wedgebot I linked to above to save your fingers from feeder-lever-pain.

So that version of cura you are using generally requires walls to be at least 2X the nozzle width. Try changing nozzle width to 0.1mm just as a test to see if it suddenly decides it is printable. If that works and the walls are between one and two nozzle widths then you could consider cura 3.1 which has a feature to print walls thinner than nozzle widthX2. Or you might be right on the edge and can lie a little and tell your printer that your nozzle is 0.35 (make sure to set shell to 0.35 or 0.7 because if shell is 0.8 then bizzarley cura will do 0.4mm line width even though you tell it the nozzle is .35 - cura is weird that way - best to ALWAYS make shell an integral multiple of nozzle width).

No it won't. You would also have to heat it to 40C with a hair dryer for the bottom layer to stick okay. Blue tape is much better. Much better. You can probably get by okay with white masking tape. And green or yellow "frog tape" should work fine also. I guess you could preheat it from the menu and then turn off the heat right when you start the print. Don't go any hotter than 40C because as the glass cools and the part cools to room temperature (20C) there is a large risk the part will pop off the glass due to differential thermal expansion (actually contraction). With 20C you should be okay but if you heat to 60C and cool to 20C the part will definitely pop off the glass.

I still have the black feeder on my um2go but I switched to other feeders on my other 5 printers. The iRoberti feeder is really great. Adding in the meduza upgrade is nice also (I have a cheap meduza upgrade kit on my store). Being able to feed by hand teaches you many critical things. For example I had a grinding issue on a brand new UM2 where instead of just a bite out of the filament there was a kind of flap as well. When I fed more filament into the bowden the flap moved along into the bowden and was clogging the bowden badly. But I couldn't tell by looking. But if I had an iRoberti feeder I would have felt the problem instantly when feeding or removing or pushing on the filament. You can also push on the filament while the nozzle is hot to feel how much force is required to feed filament. If you do this often you will know by feel when you need a new teflon part.

@nallath - Could you watch the video above and read only upatamby posts and comment? He only has problems with PVA, not PLA.

Peggy's answer is the best - you can put infill only where you need it as shown in the above video. But alternatively there is a feature called "gradual infill steps" in the infill settings. It will use very sparse infill until you start to get close to this region you care about and gradually increase the infill density but only under this "inset". And then again it will increase the infill density under the top of the part.

Is this an Ultimaker 2? I guess it must be. Anyway if you want to print over USB (not recommended for tons of reasons but you can do it) then you have to go into cura and add a custom printer and set the gcodes to be in Marlin mode. The "UM2" machine that comes with cura 3.1 only does um2 mode. So you have to create a custom printer. Or alternatively and much easier - get Cura 15.*, tell it you have a UM2 but then customize your machine to use reprap style gcodes. The problem is that by default cura creates UM2 style gcodes (aka ultigcode) which works great for the SD card but through USB, your UM2 defaults to normal Marlin gcode mode.

This is a good question. There are lots of solutions. You only need to get the PLA up to about 100C to get it out. The option I would go with is to connect up the new temp sensor to the board under the printer and then heat up the block. There's a chance you can get it up to 100C before the firmware realizes that something is wrong - it will heat for about 30 seconds before realizing the heater is not heating the sensor. That should be long enough to get it to 100C. Put a drop of water on the block to be sure. Maybe power cycle the printer quickly when it fails (heater error) and do it one more time - that will give you 60 seconds of heating and that should be plenty hot. In fact be careful not to over heat too much - hence the drop of water. Anyway you'll also know it's hot enough when the filament pulls right out.

Could you post a photo of what you are talking about. It's really not clear. Parts have such an amazing variety of shapes and trying to use words to describe your part is probably futile unless you write for many pages. But if you write for many pages then likely no one will read it (sorry!). Also are you getting infill and support confused? Infill is inside your part. support is in areas where your part isn't.

So the power supply that comes with the UM2 won't be able to get you to 150C. If you enclose the printer you can get up to maybe 110C at the most. Rajil I believe bought a separate heater for his heated bed (he has both UM heated bed and his own stacked together I think). That separate heater is probably run on AC power, not DC, and it is probably at least 300 Watts. And it probably came with it's own temperature controller. Why do you want the bed to go to 150C but you don't mind the nozzle only going to 260? In that topic that I posted above it talks about bed and nozzle temperatures needed to print several materials.

Yes. This guy has it. Or you can build your own. Contact Rajil in this topic: But I think he has things that may be incompatible with your printer - I'm not sure if he has a pt100 temp sensor in his primary head and he has a second heat (that he doesn't use). So maybe best if you just build your own. To get started on building your own marlin try this topic:

200h = 200 hours 20chf = 20 swiss franks which is $20.77 or 17 euros or 15 british pounds (that's today) In other words his hourly rate is about the same rate as slaves get (nothing). Or maybe 200h means something else.

@tinkergnome - do you understand what wong is talking about? Is this some number in marlin? One of the many Z distances in Marlin? @wong - what kind of printer is this?

I didn't realize some printers don't come with blue tape. I thought my Um3 came with it but I guess not. The "blue tape" is actually painters tape found in hardware stores. You can use blue or green. It's quite expensive at a hardware store but you don't need much. Online it's quite cheap. Wider is better. Get the widest they sell. This is because if you are printing a large part and it's trying to lift off the bed at the corners, the wider tape sticks to the glass better - more area to hold it down. Again - don't forget to wash the tape with isopropyl alcohol after it's on the glass. Found in stores next to bandages.

Not only is it possible but I did it on my UM2go and I sell Olsson blocks (or the block v3) for this very purpose. I also sell heated bed kits for um2go and feeder upgrade kits for any um2 non-plus printer: http://thegr5store.com Outside of USA go to 3dsolex.com.

Is this maybe a marlin firmware question? The firmware in your printer? Or maybe this is a cura question? It sounds like a marlin question.

Sorry - this part of the forum is english only. There is no chinese area but there is an "other languages area. here is the translation of above by google:

Okay I posted an interactive version. You can zoom in and hover tip shows all the data for each material. Here: http://gr5.org/mat/