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Yikes. Neo is right - I dont' think you had to take the panel off. In the back of your UM3 there are two L shaped thin plastic panels that cover the stepper motors for x,y and both feeders. Those L shaped thin plastic things pop off. Once off I think you have access to everything you need access to.

I recommend deleting everything you ever saved in cura. It should all be in %appdata%/cura. Then when you re-launch 3.0.3 it will create those folders fresh.

Okay well your part has no overhangs so you might need a little fan for other parts that have overhangs. Like for example something that slopes up with 45 degrees angle from vertical. Like under the chin of a human head.

What printer is this? Did you assemble it yourself? If you print gcode does it also go the wrong way? I recommend pronterface over cura for controlling your printer. It's free here: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/

Good point neotko - if you mess with the x or y steps/mm you also have to recalibrate the "switch nozzle movement". There is an entry for that in the calibration menus but I've never tried it.

The gear thing is already round so doesn't need quite as much squishing and it's also small enough that you should be okay with very little squish. Alternatively there is an awesome feature in cura 2.7 - search for "horizontal". It's something like "horizontal expansion first layer only". Set that to about -.25mm and it will take care of your problem in the gear pictures. As to the ears - that is due to not enough cooling. Really the easiest solution is to print two pickachus in "all at once" mode - not "one at a time" mode. Or print a 15mm square tower that is a few layers taller than pikachu. This allows one pikachu to cool while printing the other - it only needs a few extra seconds. This makes a huge difference in ear tip quality.

50% is BS. It's the exact same fan speed as 20% and as 100%. You have to get below 10% before fan slows down. Experiment in TUNE menu while printer is printing. Anyway it sounds like underextrusion - not layer adhesion issue. So I would concentrate on the tower option. Put it in the rear center - it tends to fall over in the default location (right rear) because the glass usually warps down in the rear two corners. Also view all the "line width" settings. Make sure they are all resonable for your nozzle size e.g. .35mm to .4mm for a .4mm nozzle. Cura has so many strange settings for infill where it prints it at double speed for example or thinner line width which is all unwise in my opinion.

I don't know the CR10 but have you tried using printrun/pronterface to control it? I assume your printer has a USB? Software is free here: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/ When you connect to the printer, if it is Marlin or similar it should list out all the settings including the acceleration. Make a note of it and then cut the acceleration down severely - maybe by 5X. Here is the gcode you can type into printrun to set acceleration (again assuming marlin - when you connect with printrun it should tell you if it is running sprinter or marlin or something else) gcodes explained here for most firmwares which covers 99% of printers out there: http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code M204 S300 ; 300mm/sec/sec - very slow - UM uses 5000, most printers around 1000 Print with this and you will hear the difference. Just insert the command early in your job or do: M500 To save this setting permanently (otherwise it gets reset to defaults on power cycle).

One of the downsides of changing steps/mm is this affects your print volume. I forget the X volume on a UM2 but let's say it's 235mm. If you lie about steps/mm on X axis by 10% and say it's fewer steps/mm (to compensate for shrinkage) now it will be moving the X axis 10% further and when it gets to 235mm it will have long since hit something on the right side of the printer. But if you are changing by less than .5% this is not a concern. Some versions of Marlin let you change steps/mm right on the control screen in preferences. I don't remember if you can do that on UM3. You can also change this with gcodes. Ideally I would ssh into the printer but you could just "print" the gcodes - put them on the usb stick and print the file. You can put the um3 into developer mode and then use ssh to connect to your printer's IP address. username/password are ultimaker/ultimaker. This puts you into a powerful utility (type LIST to see some options). sendgcode G28 X0 Y0 ; homes x and y axes sendgcode G0 X100 ; moves to position 100 - you can measure how far it actually moved There's a gcode to retrieve most settings including steps/mm for all axes. I forget what it is. Should be in here somewhere: http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code Or you can try "list" and that might display the value somewhere. I believe the default value is 80.000 steps/mm. That's the value for UM2 and I think UM3 is the same. sendgcode M92 X88.0 ; 72 steps/mm - should move 10% farther now test with G0 (move) commands - maybe home X axis first? sendgcode M500 ; saves new steps/mm - if you don't do this you lose this setting when you power cycle Doing a "reset to factory defaults" on the front panel will put the printer back to default steps/mm. I haven't tried messing with steps/mm on my UM3 printers yet. Just UMO and UM2. But it should work fine. UM printers are designed to be experimented with. All the source code is also open source.

This is really a windows question. There are easily 10 or 20 ways to open a file in windows. I suspect you are using the "double click on it" method or maybe the "click once and hit enter" method. I suggest you learn a few of the other methods. For example within cura you can choose "file" "open file" menu items or "Alt+f o" or the shortcut "Ctrl+o". Or you can drag the file and drop it into cura. This technique works with microsoft word and pretty much all applications in Windows (ctrl+o, alt+fo, drag and drop, double click, right click choose open, etc) However to address your exact issue it sounds like the file type "stl" is associated with some kind of certificate. You can right click on one of these files and do "choose program to open..." and then check the box that says "always associate this file type with this program" and then choose cura. This is the most complicated suggestion as it's different on different versions of windows and you might have to hold down the shift key when you right click to get the "open with..." option. But once done then you will be able to double click on stl files forever and it will open cura.

Well you can certainly do this on each layer (don't think you can do it after the rough print is done). You could for example do infill with one nozzle and shell with the other. I'm pretty sure you can do this with the current version of Cura.

There are many reasons why they might be different. The file on the left is ultigcode which does extrusion in cubic mm such that the same gcode file will work with either 1.75mm filament or 3mm filament. This works on UM2 series printers (not UMO I don't think, and not UM3 I don't think and not most non-ultimaker printers). That's the most likely explanation. Other reasons might be someone played with "flow" or filament diamter but probably it's the ultigcode things. You can disable that in cura in the machine settings.

Rounded edges on squares? Yes please start a new topic and include a photo.

@mechamecha - if the heat sinks work out let me know what you got and I'll add them to my kit.

The cylinder issue might be caused by the axes not perpendicular. This much error is probalby visible if you slide the head around near the ends of travel and look down from above. I'd rather concentrate on the cube for a bit which wouldn't be affected by axes not perpendicular (it would affect diagonal distances more which are more affected by overextruding corners anyway). Did you use a caliper on the cube? Did the caliper touch the corners or only the flat faces? Because a difference of .05mm due to the corners is normal and easy to fix in cura. A difference of .05mm on the flat faces is most likely caused by backlash. Note that similar to designing for injection molding - getting the last bit of error removed will necessitate modifying the part in cad to compensate. But this much error you shouldn't have to. Also you could just change steps/mm in the code. Ooh - another thought - maybe your pulleys that the belt goes around are not drilled through the center such that they are off-axis. Maybe they wobble a bit causing one axis to speed up and slow down instead of going a constant speed and if you printed a 25mm cube the error would be the opposite. Usually this is visible if you look at a pulley and push the head around. This error I've never heard of on the UM3 but used to happen on the UMO years ago.

This is normal. PLA will stick on top of PVA. But PVA only sticks to PVA. It sounds strange but it's true. The fix is to use horizontal expansion - it's a feature of cura - it's not working for you for some reason. Try increasing support horizontal expansion to maybe 10mm to see if that makes it so the pva is connected all the way down. By the way this print doesn't appear to need any support so you could just disable support.

Okay this is confusing because "vase mode" in cura used to be called "spiralize" but you are talking about that large (1cm?) spiral I think. I've never seen that. Could it be some vibration - a harmonic vibration from your bed moving back and forth? Try lowering the speed or maybe just the acceleration. Probably just the acceleration - I don't know what kind of printer that is but it probably has Marlin which allows you to specify the acceleration with a gcode. Look at what it is currently and cut the acceleration by a factor of 4X. It shouldn't slow down the print too much. Another fix might be to add interior supports to connect one side of the print to the other occasionally that are later removed. Or exterior. But you would have to disable vase mode.

My first thought relates to the fact that: A) Higher glass temp materials (like ABS, PETG) have trouble more trouble bonding - you really have to melt the layer below a bit as you add the layer above. This is normally solved by less fan (or heated chamber). The symptom is weak layers. and B)My UM3 fans run at 100% speed when you set the fan power to about 8%. So you need fans around 2 or 3% on the UM3 to get the cooling cut in half. So my first thought is that maybe it's not properly lowering the fan speed when it switches to PLA on the same layer that had some PVA. You could check that in the gcode. PVA doesn't really need any fan anyway. My second thought is the same as yours - maybe some kind of underextrusion? Maybe add a prime tower. I'm not sure what I'm seeing where the red arrow points - I can't tell if there is any underextrusion or if it's just bad layer adhesion.

That's not right. It should be better than that. I can think of a few possibilities but the most likely I think is "play" also known as "backlash". The most likely thing to cause backlash is loose belts. Check that both sides of all 10 belts (short belts and long belts) are similar tightness. Inside the side blocks there are belt tighteners (springs) that should make the tension the same but you can slip a tooth. To equalize the tension on the long belts loosen the pulley screw on one of the pulleys, redistribute the tension, make sure the axes are parallel (it helps if you push the head to one end) and then re-tighten. For the short belts, loosen the 4 motor screws outside the machine, push down firmly (about 5 pounds force) on the motor while retightening the screws. Friction can also cause backlash - the problem will not be the same on both axes so this makes it easier to test. Push the head around and pay attention to the friction. one drop of light oil on all 6 axes can help. The head could be loose. Push the nozzle around but not hard enough to move the head. Is it wobbly? it could be in the bearings or something loose in the print head. This is not likely. It might not be backlash at all - did you caliper the corners as well or only the sides? If the corners are causing the problem then that's not backlash - that's overextrusion on the corners - make all printing speeds the same (for example infill same as shell) and keep the speed low for perfect corners - I recommend 20 to 25mm/sec if you want perfect cube corners.

By the way you can also use ssh to connect to you UM3 if it's in developer mode (easy to do on the front panel). Then you can send any gcode by typing. It's not perfect if you are a slow typer but allows full control. Let me know if you need details.

Yes. The red/black wires can handle 200C (typical soldering temperatures). The white wires can handle >400C. The metals can handle > 600C. The white teflon part can handle up to 250C The black plastic fans can handle only up to about 100C so push those out of the way

Again. Please post the model. The second most common issue is that the model has walls that are too think. In cura 14.07 the walls must be > than 2X the nozzle width. So if nozzle is .4 the walls must be > 0.8. for example 0.81mm. There are other issues. Again - please post a photo!!!

Don't just try and print this and hope for the best. If you want a second opinion you can drop the gcode file onto this website: gcode.ws But if you scroll through layer by layer and some layers are missing then they definitely wont' print.

When I said "sound absorber" think of packing foam. Not styrofoam but the pink sponge like stuff. Or maybe a towel. Something thin enough that it doesn't keep the Z from reaching the bottom. I don't know if this will work but it's so easy to try. Or maybe something thin but with gel inside to absorb the vibrations. Fortunately from the menu it's easy to make the bed go up and down so you can test lots of things quickly.

Actually I think it's the base of the printer - the "base plate"?? The motor is screwed directly to it. Putting some foam between the motor and the base plate might help and adding foam under the screws might help. Putting a thin sound absorber on the baseplate should help (don't cover the z-switch hole). I kind of like the Z sound - I can hear it from far away when a print is ending and is mostly not moving (quiet).