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Oh hell!!! I just realized that was a video! lol. Your travel speed is much too slow. You want 150-250mm/sec for travel moves. Please fix that. Having a slow travel speed reduces quality drastically and is causing some of that leaking issue I mentioned (but again a tower would help even more).

Please add the prime tower feature. Search for it in the features. without the tower you have underextrusion That "filigree wall" you have that runs across the build plate to where it changes nozzles. That is all lost filament that means it will underextrude when it starts printing again. You can fix that by adding a prime tower. The default settings for the tower are all fine. I think that "dent" you describe is just underextrusion. When it starts printing again there is not enough filament in the nozzle.

Did you get Cura 5.0.0? (making sure you aren't using Cura 5.0 beta). Please post the log file. On ubuntu the log file should be something like here: $USER/.local/share/cura/<Cura version>/cura.log Where $USER is the same as ~ or your "home" folder. .local is a hidden folder so you have to just type in the path in terminal window or in the top of the gui that shows your folders and files (ctrl+L). So if you are in the gui thing that shows your files type ctrl+l and enter ~/.local/share/cura and then hit the enter key. Or do it through terminal with "cd" command.

pronterface won't control the UM3. It has 2 computers. the one that stores the steps/mm isn't connected to the external USB connector. The second computer in the UM3 is a linux computer and that computer decides the steps/mm and then sends the correct gcode on to the Marlin/arduino based computer. Anyway here is the instructions to change steps/mm: https://support.bondtech.se/Guide/21. QR Software Configuration/36.html

What kind of file type does the Horus scanner create? Cura can only take a few file types. The most common is STL. Can you get the Horus to create an STL file? Also usually after scanning you have to do some repair. You could try mesh mixer (free software) or mesh lab to try to repair any mesh errors. You should be able to find youtube videos showing how you do this.

Note also that you can play with speed and temperature live - while it's printing - from the tune menu. If it's printing well you can try speeding it up by 50% (to 15mm/sec) and watch it for a bit. Or try raising the temp by 5C. Or both.

I haven't printed this exact filament but I've printed Ninjaflex which I think is even softer. Try two things: 1) Print at 10mm/sec 2) Add oil So the oil - people think it's crazy. People think it will affect the material (it doesn't). People think it will create holes in the print (it doesn't). It just works. Try it. So I put the UM3 on the edge of a table and unspool as much as possible so it hangs down almost to the floor. Add one drop of light oil (sewing machine oil or 3-in-1 oil or any light oil - probably baby oil will work - don't use food oils as they will go rancid - only use petroleum oil). Ad the drop to the filament before you insert so it gets in the bowden. Then add a second drop once the filament is inside the bowden - add the drop just below the feeder. The drop will slide down the filament. Every hour or so (really every meter which is probably every 2 or 3 hours) unspool some more filament until it is almost touching the floor again and add another drop of oil.

Well I don't usually print PVA with overhangs but with PLA I can do 45 degree overhangs - and well - much much steeper. Maybe 70 degree overhangs. They start to get ugly though. But 45 degree should be nice looking overhangs. If it's PLA. I don't know about PVA. But 45 degrees is really no big deal. I would think PVA can easily print at 45 degrees and much steeper. In fact that 45 degree version should print fine with zero support. But... It's so small - it's like a straw. It will wobble. It will vibrate. And it will be delicate. So I added some tree support. Really I would probably add support blocker and not have it touch those... bulgy intermittent disks at all. yes it's steeper than 45 degrees briefly there but I expect it will still print fine. Truly I would try the "straw" sideways. And block support within the straw by changing support from "everywhere" to "touching build plate".

Oh - I didn't notice any support in the bottom. It's fine to make it reach the bed. That's a good idea. So support blocker doesn't work exactly the way you might think - if you look at your part in PREPARE mode you will see red areas which is where Cura thinks you might need support. The support blocker needs to cover up those spots. Support blocker doesn't keep support from appearing in it's volume. It blocks certain areas of the model from needing support. So usually I don't need the blocker to reach the print bed. Why cura thinks the inside of the tube has overhangs is a mystery to me.

I think some tablets have USB connectors for a mouse. Is this tablet an x86 computer that can run pretty much any windows programs? Is it 32 bit windows or 64 bit windows (some versions of cura run only on 64 bit windows)? Basically I have the same questions as Smithy.

Yes you have to adjust the steps/mm - there are instructions at the bondtech website. There is a tool that does it for you or you can ssh into the printer and do it manually. Both methods are explained by bondtech. If you upgrade the firmware on the UM3 you will have to redo the steps/mm adjustment.

You should be able to see those rotate circle things. Because you can't that implies something is wrong with your video driver. Try updating to the latest driver. Try posting your log file here (you can find the log file under the help menu - it's cura.log). cura 5 uses newer graphics libraries I think.

I haven't tried 5.0 yet but for older versions I downloaded the "appImage". Then I had to go and change it to execute mode (I use chmod but I'm sure there are many ways) and then you can run it from command line e.g. "./cura.appImage" or you should probably just be able to double click the file.

Install and run Cura from the Ultimaker website. Choose any printer since it doesn't matter since you don't have one. Import a model (usually an STL file). Click "slice" in bottom right corner. Then button turns to "save" so click that.

Another idea. I tilted it 45 degrees to reduce the need for support. Used tree supports to hold up some of it (it would otherwise fall over). Set support angle such that it only supports a few places lowered the Z value so it's below the plate (idea is you would make it a little longer and cut the bottom off at the end if you need it flush) UM3_actuator_v4B_core.3mf

Okay well that support up the middle of the tube is useless and can get in the way. I'd use a support blocker to remove that. And I'd also add some horizontal expansion to the PLA support. I'll create a project file (based on your file) and post it here. done. I used 1.5mm for the horizontal expansion and had to block a little bit on all those semi-disk protrusions. UM3_actuator_v4A_core.3mf

Oh wow. Wow! Very cool. That explains it. Okay so definitely look at how much PVA you are using (it says so near the SLICE button in cura) and loosen that much before drying it (so it is all exposed to the dry air). Usually when PVA gets wet you get problems with the support but usually it doesn't matter because you don't care how ugly/broken the PVA is. But in your case - you care quite a bit. You should look into aquasys as well. I hear that behaves much better than PVA. Man it's going to be tricky to remove all the PLA. PVA is usually pretty weak/brittle in comparison to PLA. But I think it's doable.

https://www.virustotal.com/gui/file/3adc5f24a0ae705a3e302587ed7950f05d6f2c60834fce13fa69c2aef3a8da62 If you follow the above link you will see that most/many virus checkers agree that there is no virus in cura 5. I'm 99% sure it's a false positive. Yet I think I'll avoid Cura 5 for a few more weeks. Also note that bitdefender says something about "gen" or "generic". There is a ticket about this issue in github: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/12226

It would help if you could post the project file. Do "file" "save project as" (and tell me your cura version). That way I can see your model and cura settings and I can slice it myself and look at things from different angles.

Well 16 seems crazy large - my printers had values usually at zero but I think one axis went as high as 3 on one of the printers. But if your bottom layer looks centered and it does for example in the photo immediately above, then I suppose it's working. But having 16 and then -16? No that seems wrong. Unless you swapped cores. But you said you didn't. I'm wondering if something is loose. With nozzles cold I would open the front door on the head and hold the nozzle tip in my fingers and gently jiggle it left/right/front/back. Sometimes the entire print head rocks in the Y direction. Actually it's rotating around the X axis. This is a known problem for some printers related to some plastic breaking inside the head that holds the Y bearing - the one where the Y rod passes through the head. Anyway be gentle - just a pound or half kg of force at the most. It isn't all that hard to snap the core at the heat break. No it's the light blue that's the PVA. The print itself is "more important" and gets more colors (red for outer shell, green for inner shell, orange for infill. Support and brim typically both get that "light blue" or teal color. Sometimes it's hard to tell them apart. Anyway, I'm pretty confused about which is your print and which is your support - the blue parts in the cura screen shot don't look connected/continuous. So it looks like the white PVA matches with the red center part. I guess maybe it's the angle? too skinny? Well your print is pretty skinny. You should at least have "support horizontal expansion" set to (default?) 3mm so that it's one continuous section of support reaching all the way to the print bed. So that the support doesn't have to rest on top of the PLA and rely on the PLA for support. I guess I would print your model sideways. Then you don't have so many issues of things breaking off and falling while printing. Note that PLA doesn't have to be kept particularly dry but PVA absorbs humidity like crazy. Just 24 hours of sitting in normal air can make it such that you need to dry the PVA. If it's a bit wet it gets more snowy and if it gets very wet you can see steam coming out of the nozzle and you can hear pop and crackle and sizzle sounds. To dry PVA unspool enough for your print and without cutting that from the spool place it directly on the print bed with the spool on top and heat the bed at 55C for about 8-12 hours with a towel or blanket on top.

Oh! I'm a dope. I thought the "support strut" must be the print bed! A photo/screenshot is always so much more helpful than words.

It's called a raft. It's in the dropdown for "build plate adhesion type". I don't recommend it though - there are even better options. Is the bottom of your object not flat? Maybe it's just floating in the air - click on the object and click on the move tool on the left and make sure Z is set to zero. Or maybe consider setting it to a negative value to get all of your print firmly onto the bed. This happens when the bottom of the part is ever so slightly tilted or irregular. Anyway, raft works great but it makes the bottom of the part ugly and wastes some time and filament obviously. It was a great feature 10 years ago - before heated beds. But not used as much nowadays with newer technologies like heated bed, PEI beds, magigoo, and more.

A 3rd thing to try - set the wall thickness to a large number such as 300. That will make it all circular. Note that when cura slices a layer it thinks of certain parts differently. There is "skin" which you can see where your cylinder gets smaller - that's those diagonal lines. So basically: outer shell, inner shell, top, bottom skin, infill, brim (bottom layer only) and skirt (bottom layer only). top and bottom skin usually starts several layers before the actual top. And continues for a few layers after a bottom layer.

1) With your first post I thought you maybe didn't do the XY calibration right (by the way what were your final values? Usually they are 0 1 or 2 at the most). Note that if you swap cores you also have to recalibrate. The printer stores XY calibration values for every pair of cores in the position when you calibrated. Each core has a serial number so if you insert a combination it recognizes then it uses the old XY calibration data. Z calibration is not stored when you change a core because you may have touched one or more of the 3 bed leveling knobs since the last Z calibration it's not valid anyway. 2) But with the post above it sounds like you have a completely different issue where the print head is knocking the PVA apart? 3) Also your screenshot above seems to show that the C shape is support and the column should be PLA but in the photos above that is backwards - did you swap filaments in addition to the cores? I don't recommend that unless you reslice as it will be using the wrong temperatures. Which could explain #2 above. 4) Please clarify which issue you want us to tackle first: A) XY calibration issue between the two cores or B) Bad alignment part way through a print.

You can disable the feature pretty easily with this tool: