Dim3nsioneer

Some fix horrible settings activated?

@nallath made a postprocessing plugin for the new Cura which also includes a pause at height script. It is planned to make this plugin part of the new Cura.

I see. I never had that problem. I'm still using the original fan shroud. I've put some ceramic tape in between the Olsson block and the fan shroud in order to avoid thermal contact. Could it be that those heater errors rather come from touching heater blocks?

I doubt it. UM made some serious changes in the engine between versions 15.04 and 15.06. For instance the support structure... But you may give it a try by renaming the Curaengine binary of the old version, copy the new one into its place and hoping for the best... btw.: If you find issues in the new Cura, please report them here. It would be nice if you check in advance if someone else has already reported that issue.

Sorry for being a bit off-topic: drawbacks? Such as... ? (I'm not (yet) aware of any drawbacks except it costs a few bucks...)

@iroberti: What a mess! I think you really should have sorted them by size... or by age... Great piece of furnature...

I understand the case is solved?

Noise is reduced.

What is your layer height? Assuming it is 0.1mm then you have Cura still ramping up the fans where you set the tweak and the fans are reduced again after the tweak. TweakAtZ does not override Cura settings which come after the tweak.

What does the temperature say during print? Is it stable?

These days, many people work on a laptop. On a laptop on battery-power, running and rerunning the slicer for every change does affect how long the laptop will operate before the battery runs out. Hence "waste of resources". Well, as the laptop is standing next to the 3D printer which almost certainly runs not on batteries, there should be a power connection somewhere close. I'm actually with you concerning the re-run of the whole slicing process. I recently suggested that for e.g. an object shift, toolpaths would not have to be recalculated but just translated by the shift distance. The answer I got indicated it's a good amount of work to achieve that...

STLs do not have units. Cura assumes 1 = 1mm. edit: I'm strictly against a settings which would make Cura interpreting the numbers as barbaric - oops - I meant imperial - units.

@SkyKorp: Yes, there is no lay flat option yet. UM R&D is working on it afaik. It is expected to appear in a later version. Maybe you try to use the percentage? Hint: 100% = 1.0 On a standard PC these days over 90% of the CPU is idle. That is a waste of ressources... Can't comment on that as I haven't used the new version very thoroughly yet. From my experiences with beta test versions I think it's rather a question of the quality of e.g. your graphics card driver.

Head(s) hanging low...

Try reinstalling Cura. It doesn't find the printer anymore. And make sure the USB port you are using is working properly.

It looks like. The correct type for the lead screw would be Tr8*8 and it's a double helix with 8mm diameter. The length of 300mm also seems to be there and a maximum current of 1.5A makes sense as the motor is driven with 1350mA on UM2s. No idea what the 2mm could mean. 42 is knowingly the answer to life, universe and everything. I'm missing the fact the motor has 200 steps per turn. You have to adjust the z steps in Marlin, have a look at the UMO HBK firmware at Github.

25mm/s is slow. I use 40mm/s iirc. It certainly improves quality in terms of less stringing when increased. And I use a travel speed of 250mm/s which an UM2 is absolutely capable of.

Completely different retraction settings? (just a shot in the dark)

@nallath is indeed working on a postprocessing script plugin for the new Cura. He calls it a quick design but it's not too bad. There are just a few details missing which I hope he can add. But the most important thing concerning the OP is that this plugin already has a PauseAtHeight script...!

For potential buyers it might be helpful to know why you sell your UM2...

The retraction at the end of print should be undone at the start of the next print: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin/blob/aa8589fae63b13e7349d74549dff261d6b3a3511/Marlin/UltiLCD2_menu_print.cpp#L151 However, I think the retraction of 20mm is too much. I have set my firmware to 12mm quite some time ago and had no problem with it; just the opposite, I printed over 1200 hours with the first (glass filled) teflon isolator and could have printed further.

Push the bearing back into the wooden case and fix it with some glue?

Most settings look quite reasonable to me. Maybe you're printing a bit fast; you might especially try to reduce shell speed and top/bottom speed in order to increase the quality. You may also try to increase the gap between the nozzle and the bed a tiny little bit to get the bottom lines even a bit better; but be careful, it's just a question of a few microns! @valcrow gave some nice speed recommendations here.

This is what I do (with PLA): - heat the nozzle up to 200°C - open Robert's feeder - push a bit of filament manually through the nozzle - let the nozzle cool down to x (x=90°C on my UMO, 80°C on my UM2 with the original heater block, 70°C on my UM2 with the Olsson Block) - pull the filament out (requires some force) - use the 'insert filament' option in the advanced menu to insert new filament

This fine strains occur when you take out the filament HOT. That's why I always take it out with a cold pull. To clean the Bowden tube I can recommend to use a piece of pipe cleaning wire which can be pushed through the tube by a piece of filament.