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stu_le_brew

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Everything posted by stu_le_brew

  1. I have recently been testing some new " EVERLAST " nozzles with Ruby/Sapphire tips based on the "Matchless" nozzle for the UM2, so far my favourite is the 0.6mm it just flows so well. The need to do an Atomic clean is greatly reduced only necessary if changing materiel type, so just a different colour of PLA no problem. The combination of the new nozzle and " Matchless" print head do not seem to hang on to filament at all - a really exciting step forward especially for abrasive materiels I still find it very amusing that the Matchless nozzle gives a snake tongue look when a cold pull (atomic pull) is done ! This is a great step forward - more great work by @Swordriff, not sure when these are to be released ?
  2. I have been testing some new " EVERLAST " nozzles with Ruby/Sapphire tips based on the "Matchless" nozzle for the UM2, so far my favourite is the 0.6mm it just flows so well. The need to do an Atomic clean is greatly reduced only necessary if changing materiel type, so just a different colour of PLA no problem. The combination of the new nozzle and " Matchless" print head do not seem to hang on to filament at all This is a great step forward - more great work by @Swordriff
  3. have you tried adjusting the tension on the extruder, looking at the list of things above I am sure you have
  4. my first thought would be to try lowering the print head temperature a little, then maybe increase the cooling fans a bit. but that is without any knowledge of your current settings so that may be not relevant ? good luck
  5. +1 vote for the BondTech feeder, its the best upgrade I have made oh! but also the Olsson block too and there is the more powerful heater
  6. Version 1.0

    860 downloads

    needed an electrical junction box of a certain depth (only ones available way too deep) so simply designed one to my exact dimensions
  7. Last year I printed a replacement skimmer flap for my (chlorine) swimming pool, its been installed for more than six months without noticeable degradation. The only problem is that it goes green inside - caused by bacteria easily removed by bleach, I plan to re-print but solid this time rather than hollow (with infill) My only other thought is that if you print anything which is hollow inside I suspect it will suffer from pressure, from my diving days the volume of air is half at one atmosphere depth, so the plastic would be damanged, so I would try solid (100% infill) hope this is of interest
  8. I have had my UM2 for three years, in that time I have never noticed any other colours than a greenish blue from the rotating control knob. I do not think that there is anything other than that colour, interested to hear other opinions though !!
  9. you can use the same liquid you use to wash dishes (plates etc) will work I have found that the best improvement I made to my UM2 was to install a BondTech extruder feeder, after which flexible filament is very easy to print good luck
  10. Hi ShailenP welcome to the Forum a limit switch is either open or closed, you can only meaningfully test it when its not connected to anything else e.g. the controller board of the printer if the switch is isolated and you see a change of resistance then IMO the switch is broken internally
  11. that is really weird, as the Z switch is further down worth trying the raise then lower the print bed to see if that does the same also check that during the upgrade you have not trapped any wires, maybe somehow cut into a wire somewhere ?
  12. The rear fan depending how old your machine is works slightly differently, if its an early machine (like mine) it is on all the time more modern ones it comes on at about 40 degrees, so that should make it easy for you to check its function. I have had many problems with the wire connectors for all three fans on the print head (the two side fans are wired in series), they are crimped on to a connector block inside the mesh at the top of the print head. So if you can get the rear fan working and you wobble the mesh if the fan stops then that is the problem. In my case I have soldered all of the wires and that problem is now resolved completely.
  13. I used to be a big fan of 123D but it has limitations, I have just converted to use Fussion360 its taken me a few days to understand the interface, with many Youtube visits for tutorials but its really a very functional product But earlier this week they took the cloud off-line for maintenance and I wrongly thought I had lost my work, that dinted my enthusiasm for a moment but I found the files on my machine so all is well
  14. Looks to me like seepage between the end of the Bowden tube and the PTFE coupler, when you put the Bowden tube back in place ensure that it is all the way home into the head
  15. I have done a lot of research today trying to ensure I am using the correct lubrication product for my UM2, I have ordered some clear oil (marketed as Connex) which is very highly recommended for sewing machines neotko do you have a source for your comment that 3 in one could cause damage to the shafts ? I can confirm I have no plans to pour 3 in one on to any of the electronics or even butter for that mater
  16. 3 in one is an lubricant only, it is not WD40 The company that owns the brand 3in1 is called WD40 Company hence the confusion I have been using 3in1 on my UM2 for almost three years it is recommended for sewing machines, so I plan to continue using it, unless anyone knows better ?
  17. No they did not, good call! same for me with Win7 and Firefox, plus there is a support button also displayed there too which is confusing
  18. well done, its not too difficult after you have done it once, as you will see next time. The only other council I would give you is to double check all the fans are functioning after the re-assemble as the connectors are not as well connected as I would prefer - I have soldered all of the crimped connectors on my UM2 fans Also the temperature will be higher for materials other than PLA, so ABS I use about 120°C good luck
  19. I wouldn't worry about feeling foolish here, most people have made simple mistakes this is how experience is developed One thought I have had some problems with specific materiel - like HDGlass Form Futura which seems to change its characteristics at the hot end when cooled, so each time I give the filament a little manual encouragement to start flowing then it seems to work perfectly - good luck
  20. you do not say what your machines is so answers will have to make assumptions ! My UM2 did work better with flexfill with a small amount of thin oil in the Boden tube, but it is now significantly faster and better with the upgrade to using the Bondtec extruder feeder (I also have an Olsson block installed).
  21. just for clarity, as you say you are not 'electronic savvy' running in series means the current goes through one first and then the other If you were to look inside the black block of the print head you would see this is how they are wired, if a connection breaks both fans will stop working hope that is clearer - good luck
  22. Hi Les, Its a problem I had initially with my UM2, its caused by the collars/pulleys coming loose. you should center everything then tighten all small allen/hex screws on all pulleys should be a quick solution good luck
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