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Everything posted by stu_le_brew

  1. its hard to say what has caused your problem, have you recently changed the print nozzle ? it could be that it was maybe not tight enough and leaked ? good luck with the test print
  2. nice work - well done - I know what you mean about post processing but your result sets a high bar for bronzefil
  3. you could try re positioning the part to a different place on the bed (left or right), this would prove @gr5 thinking
  4. depending on what you want to achieve with your 3D printing you maybe should start looking into CAD software and try to find one that suits you, I personally am a big fan of Fussion360, but there are many other possibilities good luck and welcome
  5. Hi Curor I would echo the thoughts of @rowiac I started out trying to use Sketchup but eventually fixed on using Fusion360. It has many advantages - its free, has a history feature which means you can go back in time and edit the design, plus lots of training on Youtube. An interesting feature for you is the links to a company called McMaster-Carr where you can download design files for hundreds of items (including many gears) you can edit them to suit your requirements good luck
  6. To help you I would like to see the first movements of the print bed from the very beginning of a print, but I would suggest that the z stepper motor may be wired wrongly. When a real UM starts a print it resets the position of both the print head and the bed, with the bed it should move up slightly and then down to the lowest Z stop position (controlled by the limit switch) I also have no info on the controller board or the firmware release level, I assume its a kit from China ?
  7. I agree with Didier, (now with a very serious hair cut) for me Fusion 360 is my preferred CAD product, also not a big fan of Cloud based solutions but its never let me down. It is especially powerful when you use the history function to edit the past and also using parameters to change designs. I regularly watch video on youtube by a guy called Lars Christensen (who works for AutoDesk) more than 100 tutorials available
  8. well - good luck @SandervG to you and all of us, hope it all goes well (I can still remember the last migration, but lets leave history behind us) S
  9. In principle it sounds like bed adhesion is your problem but to be able to offer any detailed help you need to post the settings you are using, also what materiel are you printing with
  10. last time I needed to transport my UM2 I used the original, box and used cable ties to secure the print head from moving also I removed the bowden tube. The only other thought is to ensure nothing can move (or fall) on to the print bed glass - you also could remove it.
  11. do you mean the UM2 original feeder? or the upgraded? One of the first upgrades I made to my UM2 was an improved belt feeder (three years ago I think) (link to site) which improved the torque and produced better results. It was not without problems so when I came across the BondTech more than a year ago now I jumped at what looked like another step function improvement (have to admit swallowing several times as its not cheap) it just works with any materiel even flexible materiel. It does benefit from periodic cleaning of the teethed gears inside I have just bought a UM2+ feeder from China and can see that it should be an improvement over the origional but have not installed it yet - its going to be part of the UM dual feeder upgrade for my machine.
  12. the Bondtech has much more torque that the UM feeder because of the gear box. my only slight criticism is when an object has huge amounts of retractions the motor can get hot - so I have mounted several heat sinks on the motor to help get rid of it - works for me
  13. I would recommend the BondTech feeder which has a geared motor its very much more powerful than the UM upgrade its not cheap but one of the best improvements I have on my UM2
  14. You may be referring to the 'ironing' in experimental features. you are right of course - thanks
  15. you could try last layer polish (I think that's what it is called in latest versions of Cura), if that does not fix it then you could try z hop with retraction - but it will lengthen print times
  16. when you say a new PLA I assume you mean a different manufacturer, I have seen this problem (with the same manufacturer) just by changing colour of PLA I think they are called 'artefacts' they can be reduced/eliminated by lowering the print temperature by a say five degrees which should make a big difference
  17. what layer height are you using and size of print nozzle ?
  18. Have you checked in Cura machine settings that you have the correct setting for the flavour of GCode for you printer ?
  19. I think maybe it has to do with the way you change layer heights on a Prusa I3, which sorry I know very little about, or maybe the way Cura is set-up for your printer ? you could try making the layer height bigger to see if that changes to an even worse print - at least you would see if it does change, you would only need to print a few layers not the whole object are you sure that the file is being correctly written to the SDcard when you make changes to the layer height
  20. I have just completed a print of this object, much easier after understanding from @BiaC that it had to be scaled by a factor of ten ! https://www.dropbox.com/s/95x8ht607h2i0p2/DSC_2096_2.jpg?dl=0 Looks OK to me, my parameters Print speed 40mm/s,infill 55mm/s, temp 210, layer height 0.10 nozzle 0.4
  21. I have tried a print - this is a very small item indeed, when I open it in Cura it is 4.21mm wide by 1.95mm high - so my question to you @BiaC is this the correct size ?
  22. Just a thought - is the filament at or near to the end of the reel, I have once had a problem with some filament causing extra friction in the bowden tube as it seems to remember being tightly curled on the reel. Not had this problem since I upgraded to the BondTech feeder which is very much more powerful
  23. PM sent to you with an offer to print the model
  24. before offering any input to you it would be helpful to know your other print parameters e.g. print head temp, speed, layer height, fan speed etc I usually print PLA with a bed temp of 50
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