stu_le_brew

you could try the option in Cura (under Shell coomand) of "Enable Ironing"

Question for you - where are you located in the world I bought (very long lead time) from China a big quantity of grub screws if you are in Europe I could maybe post some to you ? to get you running if its urgent ???

I am pretty sure they are M3 grub-screws, there are several types the ones you want have a flat top not a pointed top Recommend to look all over inside the printer to see if they have dropped out but they are very small

my pleasure good printing S

The movement shown in your second video is absolutely NOT correct there should be no movement at all you need to loosen the pulley an move outwards to prevent this movement

If the belt is rubbing on the wires then they need to be pushed back out of the way, but the rubbing would surely effect all of the print. Its very simple to remove the limit switch (just two screws on the side) and push the wires back looking at the print it would seem to me to be a problem that starts at a height as the first third of the big print looks OK my first thought to solve the print problem would be to check all of the rods are correctly lubricated, then check none of the rods are loose and can move side to side or back to front good luck

I am sure you will buy what you choose to but the original feeder is not (in my opinion) your best choice, the performance of the Bondtech is much superior

no doubt in my mind the correct nozzle is an Ruby tipped one from 3DSolex its called an "Everlast Ruby" available in a range of sizes Not sure where you are located but it is distribute widely (all over the world) You may need to increase the flow rate and temperature to get best performance

It would be worth taking the Bowden tube off and trying with a piece of filament if the tube feels rough. In the five years I have had my UM2 I have changed the tube at least once, some times in a desperate attempt to solve an extrusion problem. You have changed all of the other elements in the materiel feed chain good luck

It may be worth trying a smaller nozzle like a 0.25 for instance, sure it will take longer but it could make the difference

I would not worry too much if you can't get it out, I lost one for a long time and replaced it only to rediscover it (inside the print head assembly) months later when I had to disassemble the print head. I do not think there is any risk of it melting

Question are the materials from the same manufacturer ? The blue on is showing under extrusion, maybe try increase the print temperature

I would very much recommend that you contact Carl at 3DSolex directly, his reputation is very high and has always given me excellent service with any problems.

It could be that one of the pulleys that the belts are attached to is able to slip slightly on the metal rods, worth checking that they are all super tight good luck

My pleasure by the way I am also big fan of the Bondtech feeder (I have the QR version), its great to concentrate on design and not printer maintenance

you could try cutting say a centimetre from the end of the bowden tube which should give the white plastic part a better grip

+1 for positive comments on 3dsolex, I have not used a nozzle from Ultimaker for years, especially useful are the ruby/sapphire tipped nozzles for abrasive materials

its hard to say what has caused your problem, have you recently changed the print nozzle ? it could be that it was maybe not tight enough and leaked ? good luck with the test print

nice work - well done - I know what you mean about post processing but your result sets a high bar for bronzefil

you could try re positioning the part to a different place on the bed (left or right), this would prove @gr5 thinking

depending on what you want to achieve with your 3D printing you maybe should start looking into CAD software and try to find one that suits you, I personally am a big fan of Fussion360, but there are many other possibilities good luck and welcome

Hi Curor I would echo the thoughts of @rowiac I started out trying to use Sketchup but eventually fixed on using Fusion360. It has many advantages - its free, has a history feature which means you can go back in time and edit the design, plus lots of training on Youtube. An interesting feature for you is the links to a company called McMaster-Carr where you can download design files for hundreds of items (including many gears) you can edit them to suit your requirements good luck

To help you I would like to see the first movements of the print bed from the very beginning of a print, but I would suggest that the z stepper motor may be wired wrongly. When a real UM starts a print it resets the position of both the print head and the bed, with the bed it should move up slightly and then down to the lowest Z stop position (controlled by the limit switch) I also have no info on the controller board or the firmware release level, I assume its a kit from China ?

I agree with Didier, (now with a very serious hair cut) for me Fusion 360 is my preferred CAD product, also not a big fan of Cloud based solutions but its never let me down. It is especially powerful when you use the history function to edit the past and also using parameters to change designs. I regularly watch video on youtube by a guy called Lars Christensen (who works for AutoDesk) more than 100 tutorials available

well - good luck @SandervG to you and all of us, hope it all goes well (I can still remember the last migration, but lets leave history behind us) S