Labern

What printer are you referring to? The springs in the UM2 and UM2+ family have all 3 springs the same but the UM3 has 2 stuff springs in the front and a light one in the back.

You can install a heat bed on these. You can buy the kit from the Gr5 Store.

Yes, the Original UM2 head does print a bit better than the OB. it's just less convenient in the respect of changing nozzles.

I always put a chamfer on my models also. But a lot of users on thingiverse and youmagine don't. This is were we need something to remove the elephants foot as it's not so easy to edit stl's

Some materials require squish and ones with sharp corners. Also the bigger the item the more shrinkage so the more likely the corners will lift. Having more squish is more reliable. CURA has brim on by default but if you were able to have more squish and an option in CURA to remove the elephants foot then you wouldn't need brim.

You need to remove the shafts to remove the belts as the belts are a continuous circle. To do that you need to loosen the pulleys at either side of the shaft. Then slide the shaft out. You do this for the shafts on both sides of the belt.

Joris van Tubergen once attached the build plate to the belts so it moved the opposite direction to the print head. With some code to halve the print speed in that direction he was able to print a full sized shoe on his UM0. Not really a solution to your comment but it's interesting otherwise.

You might want to ask them if you can post the findings here in that case as the information could be of some help to others who may come across this issue.

I have raised a request to be able to use horizontal expansion for the first layer so you can set it to -0.1 to remove the sharp edge

Just search the recyclability of the filaments you're using. If a can't be then just put it in the normal rubbish. Making you own filament is not the most efficient. If you way up the cost of buying an extruder, running costs etc. you would need to make heaps of rolls which may take a few years to make up for it and by then who knows where the technology will lead. Also, you can't re-extrude PLA. It degrades too much so you end up throwing away those scraps anyway.

It does sound good. I like the idea of versions. It would be good if notifications can be sent to people who download an item when a version is updated. Sometimes I find issues with my designs and want people who already downloaded it that I have posted a fixed version.

You can change the speed on the printer. Not that important but it helps.

To get the best results the settings are model dependant. But generally if you find the best settings for a complicated print the a square will print really well. So does shape matter, yes. But a so called swoopy shape can mostly print better then a square. But the things that effect it the most are vertical angles, bridging, lots of retractions, islands that are far apart and small points. A square is pretty easy to print. No need for retractions, no need for good cooling, no fine points that will over heat etc. So it you want to play around to find the best settings for a material the look for a torture test and optimize the setting for that. You can find some here.

Aggh that's a nasty one. Yes that's what those little triangle warning stickers are for. Not nice.

Some changes only take effect after factory reset. So I would try that first.

When you say manually clean out the nozzle. Is this via the cold pull method (atomic pull) ?

Seeing all UM printers use 2.85mm filament I don't think they will start to produce filaments of other sizes until they start selling printers that use 1.75mm. UM have said in the passed that they won't rule out making a printer that uses 1.75mm, Maybe UM4? who knows. Things change and they may decide to just stick with 2.85. This would be a few years away I think anyway. Did you use the UM PVA in the raise?? It probably prints like a dream in the UM3 because it has been finely tuned to work in the UM3 but you may find if it was used in the raise it wouldn't be as good. There are a lot of other manufacturers that are now making dissolvable support filaments. I have heard some good reports from e3d scaffold but never tried it. Most companies give out samples so it may be a good option to try as many as you can.

interesting indeed. This is strange and a sad move for us makers that like to experiment.

What materials are you printing with and what core(s) have been clogging? I have only ever had one core block and that was the BB core and PVA with too much water content. Are you allowing the printer to finish its cooldown steps? Do you turn the print off straight after it has parked the head back in the corner?

I know right? not even Stroopwaffles?

I don't know, is it too hard to suggest this as a feature without sounding like a nag? ;-) There are lots of things that may not be too hard to implement, but there is a limited amount of time. Ask nicely, and make sure the usecase or usability improvement is clear, and it may get implemented. Yeah, it does sound like a nag when I read it now. But it wasn't my intention. Most CAD packages zoom into the area where the mouse pointer is pointing when you scroll the mouse wheel. This allows you to point at a part you want to zoom into and scroll the wheel to get a closer look in that direction.

You can put a tiny bead of silicone sealant under the fan. You can pull the fans off later and leave the silicone in place but it provides vibration dampening. Even a bit on the screws helps.

- hurry up - Im impatient - I want it now

Yes this issue has been a thorn in people's sides for a while. I would try the new beta as it was meant to be fixed.

Also, make sure you keep firmware and cura up to date as possible as UM is constantly making improvements to the default profiles. If you hear lots of little pops and crackles when Nylon is printing then it may have soaked up too much moisture and may need drying out. This can cause all sorts of issues when printing.