tinkergnome

That's not longer necessary. Cura 2.3 can upload custom firmware files. It works flawless like before.

Ahh, that's a good explanation. I was already worried about my eyes... :(

Was it something special or is one of these USB-TTL converters sufficient?

that's what I'm saying... ...and be careful - don't break it .. again...

Geen problem - alternatively access to the sourcefiles is ook prima! (I'm sure @neotko has already found them somewhere... )

Right you are...! Good to know, that you have survived this long journey... I see.. - you're back to get our list of feature requests! @neotko: so - wishlist for day 2 is the full documentation of the REST-API, right?

Exactly - i knew, i have seen it before... BTW: You're ...

My "poor solution for beginners" was to add a circle (or square) around all parts of the model at the same place. With a very small wall width (smaller than the nozzle size) and the same small height as the letters, it will not be printed, but helps a lot to find the right position on the buildplate. On this example it's the purple square:

Very nice! Let's see... what conclusions can we make from the ratio of toys and useful parts? BTW: I like the octopus, do you have a link to the model at hand?

Perhaps..., but his live streams are usually soooo long and boring.... we'll see.

AFAIK neither ... nor - it's the intended behavior. The new Cura automatically connects to the printer, if it is wired via usb. And the Arduino board resets itself as soon as it detects a serial connection. You don't need the usb connection if you print from sd card. The solution is indeed: remove the cable.

Naja, in dieser Orientierung gedruckt, ist die "Oberseite" der Bohrung immer ein Extrem-Überhang - sehr viel runder wird das nicht mehr. In meinen Augen sieht das sogar schon ziemlich gut aus... Eine kurze Nachbehandlung mit einem passenden Bohrer kann den Rest auch noch lösen... Und das "Ringing" wird stark beeinflusst von "acceleration" und "jerk". Reduziere mal versuchsweise die beiden Werte auf die Hälfte (am Drucker) und schau mal, ob das am Druckbild etwas ändert.

Although this may be an interesting tinkering with Windows 10 IoT..., isn't Octopi the "ready to go" solution for this purpose?

Wie gesagt - ich kenne das ja nur vom "Hörensagen".., Du willst doch jetzt den PT100 ohne Verstärker-Board direkt an den Arduino anschließen, oder? Und wenn ich mich richtig erinnere, klappt das eben nicht so einfach. Die Widerstandsänderungen ohne Verstärker sind so gering, das die Genauigkeit (oder besser: die "Auflösung"), die der Arduino damit erreichen kann, für diesen Anwendungszweck einfach nicht ausreicht. Vielleicht hab ich auch die ursprüngliche Absicht noch nicht geblickt...? Warum willst Du denn neue Tabellen erstellen, wenn Marlin für PT100 doch schon welche dabei hat (mit Sensor-Typ 20)? Aber wenn Du schon dabei bist... Marlin bringt ein Python-Skript mit, das sowas generieren kann, vielleicht kannst Du damit etwas anfangen? https://github.com/Ultimaker/Marlin/blob/Marlin_v1/Marlin/createTemperatureLookupMarlin.py

Ich hab zwar keinen UMO, aber ich glaube nicht, dass das so einfach geht... Der Amplifier ist ja nicht ohne Grund dabei. http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D_PT100_Amplifier_Documentation Also, wenn ich mir das bei E3D so ansehe, braucht das Amplifier-Board doch nur +5V und Ground von irgendwoher. Hatte das Thermocouple-Dingens nicht auch eine kleine Platine dazwischen - wo bekam die denn ihren Strom her...und mit welcher Spannung? (wenn ich total auf dem Holzweg bin - ignorier mich einfach) Und die Signalleitung kommt wieder da hin, wo der alte Sensor angeschlossen war. Mein bevorzugter Experte für solche Sachen am UMO ist hier im Forum "neotko". Du müsstest ihn aber auf Englisch (oder Spanisch) anschreiben. Edit: Ich hab das hier noch gefunden. Da geht es zwar um das Heizbett, aber es ist 'ne Menge elektrisches erklärt... (ich bin raus... )

Yes, it does. This was not my invention.

Assuming that you are talking about an Ultimaker2(+): It is supposed to blow cold air from the back to front. The sticker faces against the heat-sink. See "Assembly Manual" (page 51)

No matter how - don't be silly - keep your nozzle clean! I'm testing this for a week now (approx. 20-30 printing hours in summary) - it just works! @foehnsturm: Thumbs up!

Well... it was done before, but it's not working as a proper dual extrusion setup. It can be useful for something like this: I had the firmware folder in mind that is part of the Cura installation. Inside the program folder of Cura there's a (sub-)folder with the name ".../resources/firmware" If you swap the cables you should be able to use the "MarlinUltimaker2-dual.hex" from there. But depending on the feeder (the old or the new one), you have to adjust the steps/mm for the e-axis (gcode M92 can be used for this). The old feeder uses 282 steps/mm and 369 for the "plus"-feeder.

Yep, but looking at the picture... is it removable (if i want to change the nozzle)?

First: remove this "M907" line at the beginning. That's not needed, better let the motor current at it's default. You can bring back the estimated printing time with a short post processing script, but there are no placeholders available, it's a completely manual step for every single gcode file. Just put a line like this in the small box at the bottom of the "scripts" tab: {PREPEND ";TIME:600\n"} (replace the value "600" with the estimated printing time in seconds) It's only an example, but can probably done at the same way for the used material length. Edit: read this on the Simplify3D user forum, if you want to learn more about this topic.

The bad news is: there's no existing dual firmware for the UM2+ that will fit your needs. But that's a fact you already know... The builder from @amedee generates firmware images for the Ultimaker Original, those are not usable for an UM2. I'm not aware of a firmware builder for the UM2 (and UltiCreatr is also a completely different thingy....) I don't know your expectations or your technical background. Reading this sentence: "use the old Feeder and install it as Dual Extrusion"- well, it's not that easy... If you want to make some experiments with this, you have to compile a custom firmware for yourself. The sources of the UM2+ firmware are available on GitHub. ...or just start with the dual firmware for the (standard) UM2, adjust the steps/mm and... ...swap the cables...

Sorry, but your compilation seems a bit confusing to me... Which printer model are you talking about? Why the UltiCreatr-Firmware and why do you want to use it together with the Extrusion Upgrade Kit? What is the "custom firmware builder"? You should be able to upload pictures to your gallery now - that's always a great help...

Yep. Exactly!