neotko

Yeahh! CoreXY UM system upgrade... Now that gonna be a fun ride!

You know... New short belt pulleys (a-la um2 gt2 single dual pulley) New Z endstop New gudo-neotko-beyond slideblocks Done

Update 5/5/2020 All Gudo Mark 2 work is up. There are 2 versions UM2 hotend and Gudo favourite one, a version that uses UM3 cores Have fun, and remember to share, make and think with passion, just like Gudo did. Cheers! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4203725 Gudo agreed on sharing this early beta designs. As soon I get more time I'll upload the um2hotend Beta (NO INSTRUCTIONS FOR NOW) if someone is brave enough to use the ZGE with Mark 2. It uses a 4dia 3mm depth magnets and it uses 31 for a full 2 head setup. So, isn't assembly friendly but the design really rocks. So, for now just photos. Oh also UM3 Core version for um2 zgemark2, Gudo is testing it just now the first designs. It will only need 2 fans for the print cooling but each head will have his 5v fan. The fans are very easy to assemble or remove and every part is modular. The clip system uses a 'spring-magnet' system, that so far looks amazing but need's testing. Also the print precision will be really crucial on the clip system. Also Gudo moved the bed, by changing the screw points, this gives a 1cm area for the hotends to rest, so they don't need to rampup/rampdown while park/unpark. Also the magnet clip system allows for smooth removal to avoid any misstep lost or shift on movement forces. I'll share more when I know more I have printed a full version but my reseller doesn't have um2 3 aluminium parts in stock so I'm waiting for other source arrival to start assembling it. @Gudo will post more about this soon. Also since the files are on my dropbox, if anyone wants to beta test, PM me with your email so I give you read access. Edit. At the moment I can’t test this, I have all printed, but my agenda is getting fill of stuff to test and work.

Thanks for your suggestion; I am pretty sure that they are placed correctly, but will verify once more and test again. what you should do; open the back 2 screws of the print head. remove the long screws. open the back little "clip" you can see the connection cable going in. use a small knife or something to press on the clip on the cable end to remove the cable from the print head. WARNING, the clip must be pressed or you will damage the cable!! see if all connectors are still in good shape.. plug the cable back in and ensure there is enough wiggle room. rebuild the head that should take care of it. it is most likely a slightly loose connection cable That’s a nice idea. But also if the machine is new to avoid having warranty issues I with warranty I would wait for the reseller advice

You can buy at many shops online (even amazon if I recall correctly) a cable extender. JST-XH 3 The twisting of the pairs is optional but recommendable. Like this

Lo siento no me queda claro. Tienes foto/video del problema?

For the shake of knowledge... TFM is the technical name of the plastic Polytetrafluoroethylene TFN is a made up name that doesn’t mean a thing. So...

Adelante atrás izquierda derecha. Son igusles. Las que son diferentes son los cinturones cortos. Esos se tensan de otra manera.

Mira este vídeo de @fbrc8-erin Básicamente sueltas el tornillo de la polea y el muelle que llevan los bloques se retensa.

Btw On Cura 2.7beta this is available and Cura devs called it ‘ironing’

@cactuar It can be -Bed Z screw needs lube. That’s the first thing to check. - PID bed. To fix that use Tinkergnome firmware. Ultimaker firmware don’t have that. And it makes better Z quality with it active. - Square flanged bearings faulty - Z screw nut faulty - Board gets too hot and you get miss steps. Fix for that is to remove the white cover and put a fan cooling the board. About all that there’s a good post where other user debug his z banding and fixed it. Also, as you will see if you read all the posts, there are links to other users Z errors. Link: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/20188-smooth-walls?page=1 To debug if it’s the Z bearings/nut. You need to connect the printer by usb and use the Printrun/Pronterface free opensource software (google) and then command the printer moving it on small intervals to see if the Z gets stuck at some points. Like here: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/11123-z-axis-layer-error?page=last#reply-130203

Check this post of @ultiarjan https://ultimaker.com/en/community/23534-remote-monitoring-control#reply-171200

Échale un vistazo a esta guia. Así podrás abrirlo y echarle un ojo a como va todo ensamblado. http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/64-disassembly-of-the-ultimaker-2-plus-feeder

6 to 4 motor cable wire Found this on google?

@nallath do you know if it’s possible to use the usb of the um3 board? I mean, it’s there but blocked by the metal of the printer. Maybe they could do a simple drill and connect a usb to take command of the um3 board directly so they can test all faster? Other possible thing is to connect by SSH to the printer root@printerip password ultimaker and then do sendGcode Afaik that’s the fastest way to control the um3 Explained here https://ultimaker.com/en/community/49906-manual-control-for-ultimaker-3-over-the-lan-or-wifi#featured

El indicador. Atornillando sube. Desatornillando baja. Arriba es sin casi presión sobre el filamento. Abajo es máxima tension. En teoría en medio debería it bien. O un poco más arriba de en medio.

You could print & make this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2119644 Ofc it would make the filament reader ineffective... Anyhow it covers the key points you wanted.

I would sell ot save it. The bed itself is compatible with your um2 bed, so if someday something happens you have a replacement. Also, since Ultimaker doesn’t sell that kit anymore, probably you could resell it at a decent price on ebay.

That sounds like the Z calibration adjustment. Try to do a manual bed calibration and see if the sound disappears. When the Z auto stuff is at worka, the Z is changing to compensate the bed level. Ofc maybe is something else, but I think that noise is just the noisy stepper chips.

Cool @kmanstudios !

Thanks @electromu ! Btw I just stared at mines and indeed they are 8

Maybe someone like @electromu o @Torgeir that know a lot can share their wisdom. Could be interesting to test if one heats less or removes better the zebras.

@Amedee did this mod so he might help you if has time About UMO. It works with 19V so there's no real perfect option to use. I assume that the 24V heater should work just fine, mind that it might heat slower? (this I don't know). I know that the 19V heater of UMO does work on a UMO+ 24V board. But I don't know how a 24V heater works on a umo 19V board. You could also change a component on the umo board to change it to 24V I think. But ofc that might be more mods than what you where planning. Also you would have to check that the 24V cooling fan works on the 19V fan output of the umo board. That I suppose it's almost the same, it might just work slower? I really don't know since I only have um2.1.x boards.

I suppose you could release the small screw on the pulley and realign all. @IRobertI probably knows more

No totally. I was looking for info about how it works and found that web. I don’t need that at all