neotko

Same happened to me. But why you had to disassemble the panels?? That’s the part I really don’t understand

Remember that temperature, isn't linear. For example if the print area has many retractions, the filament stays longer on the hotend, so more filament reach the temperature, but if the area is constant extrusion less material reach that temperature, so the gloss/matte is easier to control. Basically... What you did on the gcode shows that indeed

The only reason I know to change pla gloss is temperature vs speed. For example on faber and fillamentum a 10C difference makes matte or gloss effect. Other than that, the speed even at same temperature also affects. My theory is that pla if doesn’t reach certain temp (temperature depends on speed and how much time it really reaches that point inside the hotend) the plastic goes matte or gloss. So, do that 2 prints where done at same speed and temperature? Nothing changed? Spool/Nozzle/heater?

Isn’t possible (afaik) to save them since the um3.json (or was jedi.json?) inside share/griffin/griffin/machines will override any change done to the printerboard Editing the jedi.json is the ‘easy’ way to change the steps. I would highly avoid doing that since it could affect the switch mechanism. Is easier to use horizontal expansion values on cura/s3d to change the size. Ofc if the problem isn’t the same on x/y then there’s a mechanical problem somewhere. X/Y squareness could be the cause. For a step by step manual of how to SSH to the um3 to edit the json file read this bondtech manual from page 12 and edit the steps of any motor, or even the purge amount, prime positions etc https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7A1MEUY39HCLTNPcUJNUndfUXc

Now you will say, Hey dude, they make Cura for free so shut up! Well, that's indeed true. But also 100% wrong. They make Cura to sell their machines with very specific settings to improve their machine print quality. And by side effect sometimes they make a better slicer. How much of the 2.X new options are for Dual/PVA/UM3 heavy-slow print head? Well I could make a big list, but let's go to the basic. UM3 can't print faster than 40-50mm/s that's just plain reality, beyond that the heavyweight of it can't manage it. Also it has a very small overspec misumi bearing that can't distrubite the weight or center of gravity of the print head. So, the solution? Print slow on corners, AKA low jerk/low acceleration. For example when you open Cura and you check the Speed you get a 70mm/s WOW THAT'S FAST. Ok now you unhide all the hidden options by default and you see the reality. Low accelerations, low jerk moves and overall a very slow machine. Have you checked the infill quality? Well there's where that 70mm/s is. Does it matter it looks like crap (the infill) if the print finishes and seems ok at a newb eyes? Well I try to go beyond the click-print and learn, share and know how stuff works, just because like Ultimaker in the past, I'm a maker at heart. And hiding real speed with profiles, telling users to don't experiment, saying to use UM materials to print. That's not me, that's not the club where I want to reside. And going back to the Cura is free. Remember, Cura is made to make their printers shine, sell their filament, with their settings and make a easy printer. So, yea they give Cura for the world, but to sell printers. Don't kid yourself. They give to a point. Man you are such a drama queen! Maybe maybe. Also I'm a guy that loves to make stuff. Sharing back to UM isn't what I was hopping it could. What do I get for sharing my ideas like the CeramX glass bed? I get Tomnagel saying that their glass is ok. Ok it IS NOT. It should be better, it should improve. They should aim at higher limits than just a 0.15 error rate (up and down so you can have 0.3 error on it) for a Bed Glass. They should learn from the feedback given of parts that where wrong on the beta stage, parts that did arrive to the customer without them changing them. So IS YOUR Bed wrong? I bet 5 beers to anyone that no more than 50% of the users have check the bed flatness. Just because most users don't print big stuff and the Patented Automatic Calibration hides most of the stuff. So maybe if you print with a full bed you might see a bed flatness error, you can complain and get a new bed glass? Yea. But why they don't step forward when the problem presents give accurate information to every user (not just to the Distributors) Ofc ofc why would a big company tell users that their customers might have a bad glass? Well, IMO just to show that they care about quality. Hiding stuff like this just shows how much of how they want to operate. So... Why UM isn't the company I was hopping They have incredible talented guys. Their workers are top-notch (no sarcasm here). But the whole boat is going to a sea of big companies that isn't for me. If you sell stuff related to UM is perfect to be a moderator, you can sometimes even make an insert. But if you want to share stuff you can do it anywhere else. This forum over the time has become more and more like a hot line for help, no developments, no new ideas (except some users that are just amazing). For example, why UM did change the boards on UM2 to 4 stepper chips instead of 5? Well many reasons, but logic dictates that is to favour UM3, and because 'UM2 doesn't support 2 extruders so there's no need'. Ok for me, a modder, a maker, a guy that just loves to make stuff and change it, that's a slap in the face. OFC OFC you can buy a UM3 board... But it has different plugs and doesn't work as it is... Oh ok.. So is that hard to make the board to allow external chips? Well the other day I saw one on aliexpress made by china sellers that don't share back from open source. You know, like 3Dsolex with their developments. (yea that was a 2x1 rant). Now going back to the subject. There's nothing here to be gained on a knowledge level, there's no further development on an intellectual level. Helping users, like a free-hotline isn't what I want to do on my free time, but ofc I sometimes find an interesting post and helps users like they did help me when I started. But on an intellectual level, being a guy that sometimes help randomly that's something I can perfectly do just as a normal user, no need to be a moderator for this. So what advantages has a moderator? Well, sometimes you get gifts, that's nice! Yea, but I don't like UM3 at all, I find it totally unappealing, from their view of Open Source, to how it works, to the way they solved the hardware with tricks on Cura. But I do recognise that it prints with 2 materials, and if you don't care about speed it can do it very nicely. To sum up. There's nothing to learn by being a moderator. UM doesn't make me gain experience points. Thing of it as a game. There's a point where you max out, and you need to move on to a more interesting game.

So... Let's go back to analyse all this. A company that is open source at its birth, now doesn't close the doors, but make's it harder for simple users to change basic stuff. So, what's next? What's on the UM3 future now? Closed machines with more and more complex systems? Well maybe. And it might even make sense for a big company to buy a machine that isn't modder accessible. But remember one thing, the most interesting part, FOR ME, of a UM machine was that you can change your components on your own, open it, change the board, replace X component and keep printing. But now, is a machine that isn't supposed to be fixed by the operator? So ofc they made the Cores, a fantastic Cartridge like system that allows companies (100€ each) to just replace and use and keep printing. That's indeed a great idea, for a company with money, but also makes it more complex for normal users to go in and dig, and mod, and make new interesting parts. But again, let's not forget 3dsolex and their Hardcore, sexy name btw. Hardcore is a Core that allow the users to change the nozzles, with nozzles made for the Hardcore (wow is a horrible name) and use their nozzles... So... You have UM brand Cores, with their design, very hard to do maintenance if something as silly as a damaged nozzle, and you get the other (even more expensive option) 3DSolex design that uses their own nozzles. And you know what? At least Ultimaker will publish Open Source files for it. 3DSolex just made a quick patch to sell nozzles without giving back not even a single bit back to the Open Source. So they use a different nozzle size, nothing compatible with anything else, and it's for 'the greater good' of users that want other nozzles sizes... So great for them, but again modders, open source creators, get zero. And at this point you ask, well this guy is ranting all the way. Well lets go back to the main point. Why I don't want to be a moderator of UM Well, you give feedback to UM. That's a privilege. But you get zero in return. One of each 50 feedbacks get an answer. And also that might make sense, it's a big company, this isn't the garage guys with open source in the hearts, this is well lubricated machine to sell machines that work. So where's the innovation? (wait for it). When you share and share, there's a point where you stop and thing, why I'm sharing to these guys instead to just the users? Why I'm keeping information just for UM love. What have they do for me? They allowed me to go into their offices (well that was amazing indeed) they did give me an um3 machine (that I only used 4 months and I find incredibly unfinished and with a very lack of precision and is IMO a bad printer compared to previous models). But let's step back... I'm tired of giving to UM. I love the community, I don't want to have information that I can't share, because ultimately the user and sharing info it's been my source of happiness. But sharing info with UM is in the end just sharing information for free to a company that wants to build machines for corporations. The Open Source of UM is dead, OFC OFC they do share Cura but more on that latter. They are just a company that will publish some files after a year, and at this rate (you know exponential repetition of events) the next machines could easily go to 2 years, IF they even share something. And let's rant a bit, let's talk about that patents. They did that to 'protect' themselves. That's awesome, they say they are on the big leagues, and they probably are. But also, there's a point where developing and open source is lost on the way. You can protect yourself by just releasing the project to the whole world, make it open source... But no, they are on the big leagues, they need to patent their stuff so they don't get sued by the Stratas of the world (and I bet that's a real and totally possible outcome) but again, the feeling to me, a simple user of machines that wants to share know-how, it's that there's nothing to gain there. And by 'nothing to gain' I don't mean money, I mean knowledge. I mean sharing, making, building with others on the community, sharing ideas... You know, the old community feeling.

There are many reasons so let's start by the beginning When Sander told me years ago ++ to contribute to the Ultimaker UMO+ stuff, I was eager to help, made two or three guides for fancap, @Amedee firmware and something else, it was a blast to share stuff with Ultimaker Users. The feeling was super, contributing to the forum community, you know, giving back some of that know-how from the great guys of this forum. Because when I arrived here (old forum) it was so great, ideas popping here and there, sharing, focusing on Open Source, developing together to make better stuff, not for UM but for the UM users. That was a great feeling man. Time went by, I was invited to see UM headquarters with other guys, that was a blast, seeing UM how they work, getting feedback of ideas, hearing & seeing UM prototypes, now that was awesome. But time went by, saw the UM3 and the new focus of the UM brand. But I was already on the circle, you know when you start to roll is hard to stop and thing about what's going on. I did give feedback, I found stuff that I found disturbing for me as a maker. Simple stuff, like for example the Security on the UM3 firmware that forces the firmware to be sign by UM. That's just great for companies, and makes perfect sense if you are a big company to focus on where the money is. Security... So... If you want to change the UM3 firmware you need to know Linux, access it, do some stuff here and there, and indeed the programmers did told me how, and that's it. Ok, so is easy? No. Can a simple maker like me try to share improvements to the firmware with basic stuff? Like changing esteps, or making a new feeder and sharing how to install it on their um3? Well realistically no. Can be done? Sure can be done just check Bondtech tutorial of how to do it, is anything but easy. Anything can be done, but the level of know-how it's just way too much. But even so, UM did improve that, they added a Gcode python to send basic gcode and be able to order the machine to do what's told. But again, using Linux, dev mode, going in, and accessing it. All that barriers raise the level of complexity and cut down basic makers that could make modifications, like for example we didn't a ZGE for the UM3 because of that... And that level/barrier is exactly the biggest issue I see on UM now. Machines that are focused on plug and use, machines where you hardly can open freely and change stuff. But no for this UM3 because it has ESD issues (electrostatic discharge). Ok.. So you better don't get your hands on the boards. Well I did, I didn't damage a thing. So maybe I'm not so negative (pun intended).

Steel nozzles always has the tip cooler, steel heats slower and cools faster than brass. Change to brass nozzle or raise the temperature to allow the tip to be at a better realistic temperature. Lack of layer bonding comes from the lower temperature of the tip. You could swap to brass to check if that’s the issue or raise the temperature +10C an check if the material allows that much. Because the heater block will reach the selected temperature but the nozzle will be lower, this also means that for some materials this might cause Issues. Simple solution is to print slower, less material moves, more material reaches the hotend temperature. Also, fan might be forcing a even bigger temperature difference on the nozzle that can’t be seen since the heat sensor is on the block. Ofc you could just use a brass nozzle since ngen isn’t abrasive afaik.

Hi, Neotko here with a crappy idea, hope anyone find it interesting, or not Was thinking today about the UI, IMO the weakest point of Cura. So for me making something clean it's a must and avoiding scrolls too. So, the idea it's to use a simplistic FAV system, that could allow to make a profile with the options you really want, with a compressed list of options ready to use, and on a side option to Hide/Unhide the Full Enchilada of options - Endless scroll. This way you could select on your profile what are the options you really want to have on first view. Mark Fav and it goes on your main settings list. Because in the end, when you have a good profile you only tweak 5-20 options, but not the 100 + scroll up/down/wherewasthat? felling Ofc there's much more to fix, like Object selecting by name, asing a full profile to 1 object (even if some settings can't be applied) or just changing the 5 UI way. But that's for another day, also I don't get paid to redesign stuff XD Cheers! Note, this is a 5minutes Doodle

Well all steppers do the error so I preferred to use it on all. I didn't noticed any change on Z level or extruder power so it's all ok. At least for now Great info - but this is olny relevant if a A4988 / DRV8825 stepper driver is in place, isn't? Or aalso for TMC2100 / TMC2130 / ... Indeed only relevant to UMO+/UM2/UM3 current stepper chips TMC2100 afaik doesn’t have this issue. Also fun you mention that, yesterday on aliexpress random search found that a china shop made a so called 2.1.5 um2 board that accepts stepper chips, so on that we could probably install tmc2100 and enjoy microstepping interpolation (but that’s just unknown and I’m not gonna test it since I don’t need more boards).

Maybe is the prime tower https://ultimaker.com/en/community/43469-print-a-215-x-215-x-200-mm-cube-on-the-um3-as-advertized-in-the-specs-real-build-volume Some settings to play with https://ultimaker.com/en/community/23300-cura-23-not-using-full-print-area#reply-160283

I did stick them. Dunno bought some heatsinks for stepper chips on a local shop for 5€ or so https://ultimaker.com/en/community/21508-horizontal-lines-2-lines-almost-at-a-specific-height#reply-149409 Just be very careful that yours is also small and doesn’t make contact with anything around. I was scare at first but they been running for year and a half on one printer and now they are on all my umo+ printers (except the one that I have with a duet3d board that doesn’t do zebras and it’s more silent)

Same problem here. All texts that are data (temp, speed, etc) shows weird and I can’t see any number. Most of the time shows as weird fonts beta 3.0 downloaded yesterday. High Sierra

Only way on a um2 (without any need to touch firmware or make a custom one) to do that is by changing the Machine settings on Cura to change the flavor to Reprap and then edit the start gcode to change the speed of Z after hitting the home sensor. @tinkergnome you said um2 reprap correct flavor had a name on ither post but I don’t remember. Was something to keep volumetric so the material profiles still kickin? Can’t remember now... But yea, doing that, you have full control of the start and end gcode. Otherwise the Ultigcode flavor dictates how is the start and end on each print and can only be changed by editing the firmware (a bit too much for something you can do by changing some settings here and there). Btw IMO making the z move slower will make it just more painful, and loud (lower pitch but more time).

Read from here and the follow up nswers https://ultimaker.com/en/community/48788-ultimaker-mark2-the-smart-dual-extrusion-upgrade#reply-179347

Well that looks like a mechanical problem not a gcode/cura problem. So is hard to help without knowing the machine as good as we know our UMs Does that only happen with Cura? Maybe because slic3r prusa uses slower accel/jerk settings that doesn’t happen. Try to print it slower? Maybe someone of Prusa made a correct Cura profile mimicking the m slic3r prusa settings ?

If you are adventurous you could do this: Install a switch/pin near the 1/8-1/16 of the Z stepper motor on the board Thank will change the motor step from 1/8 to 1/16 (without switch is 1/8 (default) and 1/16 with the pin closed. Ofc after doing this you should x2 the Z steps from the default 200 to 400. The advantage is that the Z motor noises will be ‘different’. Not exactly silent, but should be better or with a higher pitch. Depends on each one. To change the z steps there are many ways to do the same: 1) Connect to usb to the printer using printrun software http://www.pronterface.com/ free software. Then once connected you will have to send the Gcode that changes the value steps of Z and save it. That’s done sending this texts through the printrun console (enter after each line) M92 Z400 M500 2) Second option is to write a txt file with .gcode extension with that 2 lines (remember ‘enter’ after each line. And select it to print after saving it on the sd. Ofc you will get a ‘warning’ but just click ok nothing will happen but the Z steps will have change. If something goes wrong you can always remove the pin from the 1/8-1/16 on the board and do a ‘factory reset’ on the Menus of the printer to revert the Zsteps change. Last and also easy option is to use Tinkergnome firmware that allowsto change steps directly from the menus of the printer. If something about this did sound alien, google, read about gcode/printrun/usb connection and you will also learn a lot about why/how your printer works. Is actually really easy and not complex at all when you know what does what. Also quite primitive

My 2cents 3dhubs is moving towards big farms with better print services. Like imaterialize but worldwide. Clearly small printers might have to search other way to make money. It’s normal that a small thing like 3dhubs when started did need small users to grow and make community but as they want more money they need to focus on companies and better quality to beat competitors. Umm :thinking_face: This reminds me of something else...

You could change the gcode flavor to reprap or marlin reprap volumetric @tinkergnome knows exactly which (I don’t use um2) and the manually set the head to 0,0 and change the start gcode to only home the Z... I mean is cheaper than a 300€ board ofc china boards (I have 2 on bags) do work but sometimes don’t. This way you don’t need the x/y endstops Also, apart of the endstop itself working. I would check if the cables when they go in they stay ‘in’ the crimp, maybe it’s just something silly? I suppose someone on the forum with electrical knowhow might know how to check if the endstop are actually sending the right V to be sure is that. Also just in case as absurd as it can seem. Update the firmware? Dunno, just ideas

Crimping or soldering isnt an issue at all for me. Thank you for the link. All the google searches I did, didn't actually come up with any retailers, and lots of confusing messages about them being different sizes and will they fit. I cant find a reseller in the UK that actually sell them. Most seem to be US based and postage etc.. i very expensive. If i search for that model, I cant seem to find anyone selling them, i get alot of NEMA 17 motors? Any idea? I bought the exact model on a reseller here in spain. In uk zappautomation doesn’t seem to have the one with the same length. I would try ebay for respetable sellers. Found one that the sticker matches the one of um and its pololu brand https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pololu-Stepper-Motor-NEMA-17-Bipolar-200-Steps-Rev-42-38mm-2-8V-1-7-A-Phase-/272330221721?_mwBanner=1 Umm out of stock.. Maybe other things on ebay has it

Both switches look fine, in one of the videos i am testing the x switch to show you what happens. But i have swapped the switches on the board to see if it swaps the issue to the other axis and there is still a problem. Have you check the metal of the endstops or the other things I said like oil or the central shafts hitting the frame? Also, on both videos the ugly sound it's the motor keep going without hitting the endstop, on the second video it hits it once, but fails to do the slow approach. I doubt it's the cable but the metal of the endstop or a bad solder on the endstop itself moving and loosing contact. You changed the endstops, removed them from their positions, and changed the connector. Well then you are a handy guy, but mind that the endstops of the um2 one is longer (the metal) than the other, so it might hit/miss sometimes. An example of what I mean is that, for example this umo+ user had a wrong endstop on his machine, and it did that noise because sometimes it did hit, and sometimes it did miss. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/21468-loud-noise-from-z-motor-while-leveling-umo As you can see, it can hit, and it can miss. It's the metal, or the position, or the cable. Please make photos of the endstops, or a close up video homing X recording what happens on the endstop, and the same with the Y. But manually with the machine off. No need to do it with it on, unless it's a solder problem on the endstop, also doing the miss-hit-home will cause stress to the machine and the motors.

Stepper controller is the chip of the board that controls the data sent to the motor. You can’t change it on um2 board because is soldered to it, other printers use removable stepper chips that can be removed/upgraded. The motors, check the sticker behind yours, you have a long list of letter with the definition. They are easy to find on any pololu reseller, or at a um reseller/distributor. If you buy the motor elsewhere (cheaper) you will need to twist the pairs (red/blue - black-green) and crimp the cable on the proper socket, or cut one you have and resolder the cables. A fast google: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/21674-what-stepper-motor-does-ultimaker-2-use#reply-150479 Model SY42STH38-1684A https://www.pololu.com/file/download/SY42STH38-1684A.pdf?file_id=0J714

I would check Endstop, like @stu_le_brew suggested. Move the head manually and check they do ‘click’. Maybe the metal of the endstop it’s bend and with care that’s easy to fix. The central smooth rods, the Left to right one, does it scratch the panels inside? You should be able to push/pull it if that’s so. When was the last time you did an oil/shafts maintenance? https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/150-lubricating-the-axles Also make photos of the inside, the endstops are located near the bottom left corne. Also with the machine off, move the head and try to locate where the friction is coming from.

That happens with XT material if the orint is removed when the glass has fully cold down. If that happens with pla is only because you used and adhesion helper and didn’t fully wait for the bed glass to cold. Some users put it on the freezer to help remove it. I just use hairspray (if it’s a complex part with tons of cooling) and to remove it I apply some windowasher drops (or isopropyl alcohol) and the part separates from the glass without any issue or mark.

Use a diluted glue and barnish the wood and make sure the surface is flat. Ofc you will need to use the manual leveling. It should work without much issues. Ofc a very slow first layer with perfect calibration will help. The nozzle heat will make the adhesive react and the print part should stay there for long time. Ofc. It’s just easier to apply the glue later than just printing on wood...