StephanK

Be careful with shady Amazon "3rd party deals", it's been going through the IT press a few weeks ago. According to the media, it's hacked seller accounts being abused to scam people. There are alot of 3d printers on Amazon.de atm that are usually more than 50% off. When you look at the name of the seller, it usually ends in "send email to xyz@mail.com before ordering". If you do so, you will get an email back that looks like it is from Amazon asking you to wire the money to some eastern europe bank account. Needless to say: Chances are high you won't see your printer nor your money. If it's too good to be true and especially if they're trying to bypass amazon checkout, stay well away from it.

I added a thin PEI Ultem sheet to one of my spare glass beds and PlaTEC / GreenTec sticks extremely well to it. Sometimes maybe even a tad too well. I prefer this over the hairspray or glue approach, less messy. Since I am using pretty much nothing but PLA and GreenTec I am all set at the moment.

Die Übersetzung war nicht wirklich notwendig und sonderlich toll ist se grad auch nicht. S3D krampft an so vielen andere Stellen, die wichtiger wären, aber da tut sich seit Ewigkeiten nix. Ich sag nur die Verwaltung von Material und Drucker Profilen, oder endlich mal ne 14 Tage Demo Version, weil wer kauf schon gerne die Katze im Sack.

For some reason Repetier-Server fits my personal needs better than OctoPrint. And yes, I am running it on a Raspberry Pi 3. Currently controlling my UM2+ and two other printers at the same time. Also got a cheap (less than 45 Euros) Chinese Android tablet sitting next to it so I can start/stop prints right then and there. (I initially planned on buying the Raspberry 7" Touch Display but never got around to it) Very happy with the setup now.

Bin ich eigentlich der einzige, der grundsätzlich immer falsch rum an den Schrauben dreht? Inzwischen hab ich nen Kleber vorne aufm Gehäuse "Von oben: Links - weniger Abstand, rechts mehr Abstand.. (oder wars anders rum?)

I've used Toshibas FlashAir Wifi SD cards in all my printers, mapped as WebDAV shares, so it shows up as a drive in Windows - or via the built in (very rudimentary) browser upload page. Love it. Works great in all of them, except for my Ultimaker 2+. No chance getting it to work, even tried the competing Transcend WifiSD, same problem, no go. It would require firmware change. I stopped using them when I got hooked on Reptier-Server (the non free Octoprint alternative).

Did it actually get tied in a knot or did it get stuck because of the angle it comes off the spool? Looks like you're having the "end of spool"-blues. It's been driving me crazy as well. I think the UM2+ needs a filament guide like the UM2 has and to be honest, I think the original spool holder isn't terribly good to beginn with. I ended up replacing the whole spool holder with something very similar to IrobertIs design here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/low-friction-um2-spoolholder and in addition printed a free standing holder that i use for more brittle filaments to feed in a less angled path, Between those two my problems went away.

Lets see if i can be of any help till the pros show up ;-) 60°C bed temp should be more than plenty for PLA. More doesn't make it better in my experience. Did you try 50°C? What are you using to clean your buildplate? Been using window cleaner at first. It apparently left some residue that needed a good wash in the sink to get rid of. Ever since all i am using is isoprop alcohol 70% or higher on a paper towel. I'm getting mixed results with the standard nozzle height procedure as well. Starting from there, I usually just go ahead and turn the 3 knobs some more during the 1st layer of a test print in order to squish my first layer down even more. Can you take a picture of your first layer?

Love the name of the plugin :-)

You might have better luck asking that question at the BQ Support forum: http://www.mibqyyo.com/comunidad/categories/hephestos-2-en

Halter für die Messuhren gibts auf Thingiverse ein paar: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1647246 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1804231 und mehr. Stichwort Ultimaker Dial Gauge Aber weiter als bis zum runterladen und Messuhr kaufen bin ich noch nicht gekommen. Irgendwie gings bis jetzt immer auch ohne.

100°C seems a bit warm still. I do atomic pulls on my UM2+ at 80°C. So heat up to whatever temp was used for the filament used, wait till its back down to 80°C and pull. Works great. Edit: Oh, and while it cools down, keep some pressure on the filament. Just enough to make sure you got the filament in nice and tight.

Because the link that pops up when i tried it a few minutes ago is broken. After selecting IGo3D it leads to a 404 page where you can see a UM printing the error msg.

I just got a few spare sheets of PEI delivered from the Prusa shop (and some i3 attached to one of them) and found these fit the glass plate of my UM2+ nicely with only a tiny bit of cutting required (~ 2 mm on one side, plus round the edges a bit). Dimensions of the Prusa i3 sheet: 254x224 mm, 175μm with 3M 200MP adhesive Price for us Europeans is fair enough at roughly 9 Euros, but s&h costs are a bit steep. So far I only printed with PLA, but it looks promising. I stuck it on a original UM2+ glass plate that was annoyingly uneven and so far, things are looking pretty good. I got some ABS, Filaflex, PLAtec and Woodfill waiting to be tested next.

@Frederiekpascal do you mind saying where you ordered yours? Not having much luck finding it.

Hi Printbot, Fusion 360 is free for us Hobbyist Makers. See here: http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview Scroll about halfway down the page where it says "Free for students, enthusiasts, hobbyists, and startups" (right hand side) You download the demo, then create an an account and register for the free subscription. Initially its good for one year and will get extended (unless Autodesk changes their minds later down the road) EDIT: Lol, I am way too slow ;-)

Cant help with Win on the RasPi, but maybe take a look at Repetier Server? https://www.repetier-server.com/ That's what I ended up using on my Pi3

Autodesk has a whole bunch of different products that could be used for 3D printing - from TinkerCAD, 123 Design, Fusion360, Maya, Inventor, AutoCAD etc. pp. Which Autodesk Software are you using? Here are 4 Autodesk products i am using: a) Fusion 360: use the Make > 3D Print from the Toolbar, uncheck "Send to 3D Print Utility" to save to STL - or try if you can send to your slicer as "Custom" utility. b) 123 Design: Export to 3D > STL or: select the part and click "Export Selection" c) TinkerCAD: File > Download for 3D Printing d) MeshMixer: File > Export

I've been using default printer profile and it was working straight out of the box. Not all that well, but it was working. What exactly is happening? Is it homing the axis? Is the bed and nozzle heating up? I guess you could try to add your printer through Help > Configuration Assistant again. Then check the Start Code (Add Process > Show Advanced Settings > Scripts > Starting Script). When i try to setup a UM2 it defaults to: M907 E1400 ; increase extruder currentG28 ; home all axesG1 X20 Y10 F3000 ; bring extruder to frontG92 E0 ; zero the extruded lengthG1 Z10 ; lowerG1 E19 F200 ; purge nozzle quicklyG1 E26 F60 ; purge nozzle slowlyG92 E0 ; zero the extruded length againG1 E-5.5 F400 ; retractG1 X190 Z0 F9000 ; pull away filamentG1 X210 F9000 ; wipeG1 Y20 F9000 ; wipeG1 E0 ; feed filament back And below it, in Post processing "Standard gCode" should be selected. With respect to the additional information on the display: i don't think there is a way to get this back for files not sliced in Cura / UltiGCode. Eventually it'll start showing a rather inaccurate "time left" bar if i recall correctly. Since i'm printing over a RasPi these days, all I get to see is "USB Printing" anyway. Maybe TinkerGnome Firmware will give you more/better statistics for files sliced in S3D as well. Haven't tried that yet.

Maybe closely inspect the plus sign. It's a sticker in the Upgrade kit, there might be a difference. I did noticed since I got my Ultimaker and leave it on 24x7, I don't need to turn on my ceiling light in the office anymore at night. I am conserving energy. Kinda.

+1

Die Fritz App greift auf die 37.xxx.xxx.xxx zu? Wenn die Fritz geht sollte Octoprint ja auch gehen... Ich bin etwas ratlos.

In einigen Anleitungen für OctoPi wird HAProxy vorgeschlagen, um den Port z.b. auf Port 80 umzulenken. War nur so ein Gedanke.

Hast du eventuell HAProxy mitinstalliert? Da bleibt nimmer viel übrig, außer deine öffentliche IP ist doch nicht öffentlich. Da kann dir nur noch Unity Media helfen. VPN dürfte in dem Fall auch nicht gehen. Du wirst glaub um nen Anruf bei Unity Media nicht rum kommen.

Die 192.168.178.33 kann nur intern funktionieren. Von außen muss die öffentliche IP des Routers in die App (oder du verbindest dich zuerst via VPN, aber das is nochmal ne ganz andere Baustelle)