GregValiant

Hello, This is from 4.13.1 with the line width at .399. As you can see, it looks good and how we would expect it to slice. I may be hampered here as this old laptop is in Compatibility Mode so it may be over-simplifying the view. If you would load that model, set Cura up to slice, and use the "File | Save Project" command, and then post the 3mf file here then someone can take a look. BTW: I loaded that model into MS 3D Builder (to check for errors - none found) and it opened at 10X the size it is when opened in Cura. That was odd. I understand it shows in Cura as you wanted I'm curious if it was designed in centimeters and Cura is assuming millimeters?

I think you will appreciate that any problem that refuses to duplicate itself is impossible to debug. Regardless of what others might say, and in spite of the fact that I can't prove it, I firmly believe that "Computers are not an exact science.".

TPU sticks to itself really well. Your "Support Interface Density" of 100% is effectively just another layer. You can try using something like 40% but the first layer above support doesn't get any "squish" and never looks as good as layers that go down on the bed or on top of other layers. A hobby knife is your friend. The "Support Z Distance" can only be exact multiples of your layer height. If the Layer Height is 0.3 then your Z distance could be 0.0, 0.3, 0.6, 0.9, etc. Cura cannot vary layer height during a print. I usually use "Grid" linetype for the Support Interface and at densities ranging from 25% to 60% and .6 to 1mm thick (depending on the model). I limit my TPU printing to flat gaskets and some seals because it is so hard to clean up after printing. I did some experimenting using a Pause at Height when the first layer above support was supposed to go down. I had pieces of blue painters tape prepared and sprayed with hairspray. At the pause I would put them over the support and the first layer above the support went down better. It was more trouble than it was worth.

This works correctly on my installation. This snippet is from a gcode with the standby temperature set to 199°. M104 S199 ; standby temperature M18 S1800 ; Set the disarm timeout M300 ;Beep M0 ; Do the actual pause M109 S210 ; resume temperature @pkos76 can you post some of the gcode from your pause section? The M104 command does not "wait" for the temperature to drop.

Any profile that's visible will work with your printer. The ones that are hidden might work if they were available. You can always install an UM S3 and see if you can copy one of those fancy profiles, export it, switch to your printer, and then import it. Sometimes that works, other times Cura notices incompatibilities (nozzle size, wrong number of extruders, or what have you). You are going to end up building a couple of profiles that work well for you. I know that the temps, speeds, line width, etc., that I use aren't what other Ender 3 Pro owners use. Every model is going to have variances that require customizing the settings. I have one profile for PLA, one for PETG, and one for TPU. In addition, I have installed three Ender 3 Pros, one for each material because each needed different StartUp Gcodes. I've found that limiting the profiles and always keeping "All" settings visible keeps me on my toes and I think about what I'm doing rather than rushing through and then having to start over because I forgot to change something. I'm big on forgetting to move the Z seam.

@aaran what printer do you have installed in Cura? Some of the profiles (like Engineering) are specifically tuned for Ultimaker printers.

@Nikolay_Po could you post one of the bad gcode files? I'm unable to duplicate the problem slicing that 3mf file.

I turned off "Retract Before Outer Wall" and changed the combing mode to "All". Take a look. GV_FingerPressure_print.3mf

@AmberElferink if you would post the 3mf file here someone will take a look. It's the best way to transfer the model and your settings.

Remove the build surface. Give it a good bath with dish soap and water. Put the build surface back on. Wipe it well with Isopropyl Alcohol 90% with a cloth that does not leave lint.

It should not drool when attached to the ceiling. I'm not sure if gravity is a Zen thing. It is definitely Newtonian. It's possible your Z offset for the ABL is off by a little and the Initial layer is a bit too tall. Cura has a setting for "Initial Layer Flow" in the Material section. Try setting it to 105% (but this is a band-aid fix). Your nozzle is heating all the way to "Initial Layer Print Temperature" and so it is oozing. Within your StartUp Gcode make the alterations that are in bold text: M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00 ;Setup machine max acceleration M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z10.00 E50.00 ;Setup machine max feedrate M204 P500.00 R1000.00 T500.00 ;Setup Print/Retract/Travel acceleration M205 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.40 E5.00 ;Setup Jerk M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate M221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ;start to heat the bed M109 S150 ;warm up the hot end and wait for it M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ;wait for the bed G28 ;Home G29 ;Auto bed Level G0 F1800 Z10 ;move the nozzle up so it has room to ooze M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ;wait for the hot end to reach Initial Layer Print Temp G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder ;G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up ;add the semi-colon in front of this line G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up

Arc Welder is a Post-Processor and turning it off should not have made a difference in the Preview. @mikus are you using a more current version of Cura (@Shuey was using 4.8)? The beta version of "Arachne" addresses this problem using variable line width (so an odd number of walls may occur). I think 4.12.1 and 4.13.1 are better at it as well.

If you have Cura 4.13.1 there is a printer definition file for the A20M. I don't know how many versions back it was included. As for a Settings Profile I think you will need to build your own. As I recall that is a 2-in-1-out hot end. In the Cura Marketplace (button at the top right) there is a plugin "Printer Settings". Install it and after restarting Cura it will show up at the very bottom of the settings list. Within Printer Settings are "Extruders Share Heater" and "Extruders Share Nozzle". You will need to select both of those. Next to the Settings Search box is the Visibility icon. Click on it and set it to "All". I would practice with Extruder 2 disabled and print a couple of test cubes. When those start to look good then re-enable extruder 2 and disable extruder 1 and slice and print again. Get them both dialed in. I don't own a multi-extruder machine but I've played with virtual ones in Cura. The retraction distances when switching from one extruder to another, the size of the purge tower, how much material you actually need too purge to switch colors (white is tough) need to be practiced. There are settings within the Dual Extrusion section of Cura you will need to become familiar with. In addition, each extruder can have separate starting Gcode that would be added at each tool change. You're right - it isn't simple and there is no "Easy" button. Maybe someone over on Reddit has a profile you can start with. There haven't been many A20M owners who have shown up here. Good Luck.

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Someone will be along to help. They will need to know what printer model it is.

I don't know your level of understanding regarding 3D printing so this is basic. Cura installs on your computer. The current version is 4.13.1 and you can download it from HERE. After downloading - run the installation file. After Cura installs it will start up and you will be asked to add your printer. There is no definition file for a "Winice M09" printer. After seeing a picture of it, I suggest you install the "Creality Ender 3 Pro". You will find it in Non-Networked printers and then Creality 3D. On the right side of the dialog is a textbox where you can change the name. Next is a dialog where the machine size, gcode flavor, and some other things are defined. I suggest you set the X(width), and Y(depth) to 235 for both and the Z(height) to 260. Leave the "G-Code Flavor" as Marlin. The "StartUp G-Code" contains the initial setup for the printer for any print. The "End G-Code" shuts the machine down after a print. You load a model into Cura (often an STL file and I've attached a calibration cube below) and adjust the settings and then Cura will create a Gcode file. You save the gcode file to a memory card that will fit into the printer, and then tell the printer to print the file. The "firmware" in the printer reads the gcode instructions and moves the printer axes. The result is supposed to be a 3D print. Some of those printers have a hard limit on the size of the memory card that they can read. I would suggest getting one that is 32gb or smaller to use with the printer. There may be a limit on the length of a file name as well. I suggest you limit the file name prefix to 16 characters. Attached is a very simple Gcode file. Download it and then open it with a text editor and take a look. It is just some movement instructions with a slight heat up for the hot end and bed. The temperatures should show up on the LCD. If it doesn't work then there are issues that will need to be addressed. The layer cooling fan should turn on at 100%. If your printer does not have a heated bed then the gcode might hang (because it asks for the bed to heat up). There are no extrusions in the file. If the 3 axes motors work then the extruder should work. There is a fella that goes by "CHEP" who has a set of YouTube videos he calls "Filament Fridays". I would suggest you peruse them. He is kind of Creality specific but much of the information can be applied to any printer. Test_M09.gcode X-Y Ref Block.stl

Hello @jasontwd. @nallath explained the "why" here someplace. As I recall he was forced to use "L" words like "Lawyers" and "Liability". The Maximum Temperatures and their associated Warnings are defined in the "fdmprinter.def.json" file. If you added the printer as a "Custom FFF" printer in Cura then it has those defined limits. If you were to create a custom definition file for the printer then you could add overrides to make adjustments to the Max Temperatures that your machine can handle. There aren't that many 3D printers that SHOULD be allowed to go that high and prudence takes precedence. I believe there are lot of Machine Definition files for certain printers that have overrides to set lower limits. There may be one or two definitions that have higher limits. I don't think mom and dad would be pleased when their ten year old set their brand new "Cow-a-Bunga 3D Gold Pro Mini" to 2000°C because they read somewhere that they could print steel welding wire. The house would not last long.

Hi @gr5 and @Abinav_Shankar. I thought I'd stick my nose in for a second as I've printed quite a few "file-on-file" projects. "G92 E0" Cura always resets the E number when the volume approaches 10,000mm³ during any print. From what I've read it's because the constant rounding off of the E value starts to produce significant errors. For 1.75mm filament the max "E" would be 4158 and for 2.85 filament it would be 2233mm of filament. So if a print is large enough there will be a few "G92 E0" lines present in the Gcode. I don't know how an Ultimaker keeps track of the total filament used. If it is by the total steps sent to the E motor or if it reads "filament used" from the file then the G92's wouldn't matter. File-on-file. I spent more than a little time writing some code to splice files automatically. It was a pain. It finally occurred to me that Pause at Height always calculates a restart position for all 4 axes. So I enter a pause at the layer I want and slice the file and create the Gcode for the bottom half of the print. Then I change the layer height, line width, or switch to extruder 2, etc., and re-slice the model and produce the second gcode. I open the second gcode file look through it to find the layer at the correct Z (or close enough) and adjust the Pause at Height Layer number, and slice again. In the base file I discard everything below the line ";Current Layer" (that Pause at Height adds) and discard it. Then in the second file I select everything from the "resume temperature" line through the end of the file and copy it into the first file. The restart position XY of the first extrusion are present as well as the G92 to sync the extruder and the resume Z height. A check of the XYZ is just prudence and there might be an adjustment that has to be made (usually the Z) but with a bit of practice the system works very well and the transitions are seamless. In this case you would want to make sure that the Tool switch occurs and that a purge happens (if required). At any rate I hope that helps (or at least doesn't hurt).

The STL is a clip that snaps onto the bottom roller screw under the X motor. It trips the Z switch. If you use it then you don't have to move the Z switch and it's easy to go back and forth between the glass and the stock surface. It might need a little filing so the tabs don't break. Z Switch Tripper.stl

The side with "Creality" facing up. Some people like to print on the other side which is plain glass.

Even a blind squirrel finds a nut every once in a while.

The preview should be showing exactly how it should print. Next to the Settings Search box is an icon with 3 lines on it for "Settings Visibility". Click on it and set it to "All". Go down to the Mesh Fixes section and make sure "Remove all Holes" is NOT selected. Models created with Fusion 360 are pretty good and rarely have problems. TinkerCad...not so much. If there is an open seam at the top of the model ("not watertight") or if a surface is inside-out then you can get errors in the slicing as Cura gets confused by conflicting data in the model.

This would probably be answered better on a Creality site. @gr5 is one of the moderators here and made a video that I call "Everything you wanted to know about bed adhesion". Make some popcorn and have a view. The VIDEO IS HERE. I print on the same glass bed as yours and I print on the textured side. Give it a good bath with soap and water. Place it on the printer and then wipe it down well with 90% Isopropyl Alcohol. I print PLA at 50° bed temp but 60° is fine. With a freshly cleaned plate I don't need anything to aid bed adhesion with PLA. On the other hand, PETG always requires help and I'm a fan of hairspray. When using hairspray with PLA allow the glass to cool before trying to remove the print. There are certain models that will require elephant ears. Cura has a plugin for "Anti-warping Tabs" that can be sized and moved around to keep prints from warping by providing additional surface area. This is a crutch but you can try it: As soon as you start a test print - go to the Tune menu on the LCD and jump the flow up to 115%. That extra plastic should help to get squish even if you have too large of a Z gap on the first layer. As the print goes down you can tune it back towards 100%. When it looks like it's working well then you know what your Initial Layer Flow should be set to in Cura. Gr5's video will help you get rid of the crutch.

The Maximum Accel for Creality printers is usually 500 and the Jerk 8. I generally print PETG at 35 with the outer walls at 30. Keeping the outer wall speed lower helps abate the bouncing around corners. In that photo you can see on the right edge that the printer bounced going around that corner as well. If you lower the Accel too much you might have problems going into a corner as the extrusion will stop farther from the corner. Maybe a small chamfer on the holes would help. Part of this is the printer (any printer) as the belt tension and any slop in the mechanicals always show up in a print. As I recall, the belts on the Ender 5 are pretty long. It doesn't take much stretch on starts and stops to cause a little bump like that. On another note - you might have some under-extrusion going on. I print a lot of PETG on my Ender 3Pro as most of my stuff is functional prints and the finish looks a lot different than that one. Here is a PETG print and you can see a bit of ringing as it came around the corner on the right, and then again after the left hole. In my case I know it's the printer. That's about as good as I can tune it. (The rough edge on the top radius was where the support was.) The print speed was 35, outer walls at 30, 0.4 nozzle, 0.2 layer and 0.4 line width, 240 hot end, 80 bed.

This is kind of an odd request as generally the bottoms look pretty good and it's the top that can be an issue. If you move up to Cura 4.12.1 or 4.13.1 then "Monotonic Top/Bottom Order" insures that all the lines are moving in the same direction...no more of half the lines while moving to the right and the other half while moving to the left. You can try pushing the "Initial Layer Flow" to 105% or so to insure all the lines get welded together. If it's PLA then keeping the speed down to 25-35 can help as well. Maybe someone else will come up with a better suggestion.