GregValiant

@KaluNaama - This has come up a few times now and I believe there is a bug report on GitHub. You can scale the Z and make the model .201 tall (make sure it is still sitting on the build plate) or you can change your Initial Layer Height to .199.

I have come across a problem in 4.11 that has been reported here and there. It has to do with slicing walls and floors that are an exact multiple of the Layer Height or of the Wall Thickness. There have been a couple of posters who have noted that their "calibration pattern" of 4 rectangles on the build surface that is .200mm thick will not slice with the layer height set to .2mm. With the layer height changed to .199 it does slice or if the model is scaled in the Z to .201 it will slice. There have been a couple of other posters who have noted that models with wall features that are 2.000mm wide do not want to use infill if the Line Width is .400mm. They are either empty, or if Fill Gaps Between Walls is enabled then an inordinate amount of time is spent filling the .4 gap with Skin/Mesh. If the Line Width is changed to something like .399 then the walls will accept infill and there is no need to Fill Gaps. These two issues appear to be related and (from afar) the issue appears to be a "math" / rounding-off thing. I don't recall either issue in previous versions but I have run across both problems myself in 4.11. I'm aware of the workaround so it doesn't affect me but for others who may be new to Cura and are not as familiar with the program then either problem can be a show-stopper as the "can't slice" warning comes up and isn't helpful in these cases. The calibration shape problem (Layer Height) has been noted on GitHub. I don't know if the walls issue has been noted over there. I just thought I'd bring this up as I'm a suspicious sort of guy with a bad case of curiosity. I will admit that the problem (if it actually exists) will not keep me awake at night. I guess I'm just wondering if they are related.

Creality printers can be fussy about the SD card. The one that comes with the printer is a really inexpensive one and has a short life span (sometimes measured in seconds). The SD cards (any of them) can become corrupt. When you copy a file to the SD and the end of the file gets written to a bad sector on the card, then the file will print until it gets to the bad sector and the information quits making sense to the printer. At that point the printer will decide it's done, but nothing has told the printer to shut off the hot end or bed or fan. If you are using Windows then you can use Notepad to open a gcode file. Open the one from the SD card and scroll to the end. There should be a bunch of comments starting with ";" and above that will be a line ";end gcode". If that stuff isn't there then the SD is corrupt. You can try re-formatting the card to FAT32. Make sure you copy any files on it to your hard drive before you format. Then copy your gcode to the card and try again. If you decide on a new SD card (most people do) it must be 32gb or less.

Hello @Torgeir, @Reddley. Reddley I'm not sure what you want here. If you change the line width of the inner and outer walls to .39 then the infill should show up. I'd do that and then set it to 3 walls. That will cut the print time down and the walls will be near solid and the infill lines won't show on the outside. You might get feather edges on all the holes and they tend to warp up and get hit by the nozzle. Enabling Z hops might be a good idea. Good luck with it.

@knownchild, did you open the 3mf I posted above?

That circle is the raft. There is one tab that hits the build plate and the rest of the bottom is elevated. In order to print correctly it needs support as the main body bottom is 15 layers off the build plate. Here is the preview of the "Modified" file. Here is the model sliced with Support turned on. There are 14 layers of raft and support before the bottom of the piece shows up on Layer 15. I realize this needs a lot of support but when you have areas that start in thin air there has to be something for it to print on. Air printing never turns out well. This is with support turned off. There is no way that piece starting out in space will print correctly. A lot of that overhang has the same problem.

It might be a prime tower. Under Support see if you have "Use Towers" checked. If it isn't visible then you can search for it or turn setting visibility to "All".

With many models the line direction matters. When I have to spin a model at 45° to get it to fit the build plate then I rotate the infill and skin to match. Keeping the Infill and Skin at 45° to each other works for me. For parts that don't really need the inner strength then using an Infill Layer Height of 2X Layer Height makes for quicker prints. The same can be done with support infill layer thickness.

For strength I use the Grid with the line directions at [0,90]. This is with 15% infill, "connect infill lines" enabled, and "Infill Line Multiplier" at 2. I can park my car on prints with this infill (I know that because of a blind test my wife conducted). It also doesn't matter how the block is oriented. Unlike Hex, the load capability of any face is the same. I don't use it often because of the hit on print time. At 2 walls I would get marks at the infill lines. With a car parked on top they are hard to see.

"Holes that were round are now half filled at the top." Do you have "Make Overhangs Printable" enabled?

Is "Walls / Optimize wall printing order" turned on?

Please use "File | Save Project" to create a 3mf file and post there here. It's much easier to troubleshoot from a 3mf.

This has been noted on GitHub and a bug report was filed. If you scale the Z to .21mm or make your Layer Height and Initial Layer Height .199 it will likely slice.

Let's list what we have here: A 3rd party printer. A nameless 4th party mainboard. A 5th party that installed the mainboard. And you want to change the firmware to something that has a number 1.1.5. Do we have a 6th party - Klipper, RepRap, JYers, or something different? The port needs the correct USB to Serial driver. Typically that is a CH340 driver. If you are working with Windows 10 then in Device Manager under Ports (COM & LPT) there should have a line like "USB-SERIAL CH340 (COM7)". That works with a lot of Marlin mainboards but there is no way to tell if it will work with your mainboard. The best thing to do is go back to the manufacturer of your new mainboard and find out from them what you need. A lot of mainboards want the FIRMWARE.BIN file on the SD card and will not update via USB.

Well @Torgeir and @Smithy I will need to retract part of my previous post. No matter how I build a cylinder - with Spiralize turned on I get a single outside wall. That occurs with "wall count" at 4 on a thick wall tube as well. The floor gets bigger but there is no second wall. This tube is a 100mm cylinder with a 10mm wall. It is with Spiralize enabled and the wall count = 3. This is not what I expected. We might need that simple model after all because right now things don't seem so simple.

It depends on how AnyCubic handled the firmware. The Home Offsets are stored in the M206 register and it should be available. If it isn't then there might be a workaround or maybe you don't need to define Home Offset (at which time the Home Offsets will be the default X=0 Y=0 Z=0). The Home Offset usually defines the Origin Point for the printer. When a gcode file is read the printer puts the gcode 0,0,0 at its own Home Offset origin. The Auto-Home position is actually measured FROM the Home Offset position. When you auto-home the printer - what does the LCD show for X, Y, Z locations? If that AutoHome position is in a "printable" location with the nozzle near but over the left front corner of the build surface then you should be good to go and the LCD should say X0 Y0 Z0. If it isn't then we'll need to talk some more. On my Ender the Set Home Offset command is in the Prepare menu and is right below Auto-Home.

I think what @Smithy is getting at is that if a model is hollow (like a pipe) then it has 2 outer walls (one facing air outside and one facing air inside) and they both get printed. It's "Spiralize Outer Contour" and you have two outers. So it appears that the way you have it modeled isn't suitable for Spiralize.

If your computer can read the SD card then copy the files to the computer. After you've saved any files then format the card for FAT32. The XVICO appears to be a clone of the Ender 3. The Ender 3 does not read cards over 16gb. If your file name prefixes are over 16 characters they may not want to display on the screen so keep the file names short. There are some other posts around here if you use the search tool at the top of this page. Search for Xvico. BTW For a machine definition file I think you can use the Ender 3.

I think the 3mf format changed it back into a part. It used to be called Print as Model. Now it's "Normal Model". GV_crE3pro.3mf

There is only one model in the workspace and you have it set for "overlaps" - but there aren't any overlaps because...like...ya know...there is only one model in the workspace. Select the model. In the "Per Model Settings" select "Print as Model". The next button down is "Support Blocker". Select Support Blocker and click somewhere on your model to add one. They come in at 10x10x10 I think. With the support blocker selected select the Scaling tool and turn off "Uniform Scaling". Drag the handles of the support blocker and make the support blocker larger than your model so it will cover the whole thing. Rotate the support block and move it as necessary to cover the whole model. Always rotate last. Trying to make changes with the blocker (or model) at an angle is odd. In this case you want the Z of the support blocker to be "0". Or you could just turn off Generate Support. The key is that the way you have it set up there is no model, just a mesh modifier.

Load a calibration cube in Cura. Set Cura up with your preferred settings. Use "File | Save Project" to create a 3mf file with all the info in it. Post the 3mf here.

This is a mechanical issue but it's possible there is something you can do. I'm attaching a calibration shape that I came up with. You can bring it into Cura and set the print speed to 20mm/sec and enable acceleration and Jerk control. Set all the acceleration numbers to 100 and the Jerk to 5. Generate a Gcode and print the file. I've decided to also attach a gcode file of that shape (I scaled it a bit). I used my Ender 3 Pro as the printer and after the 3rd layer it just does the outer walls. I moved the model to near the LF corner of the build plate and I think it should print on your Selpic. If it doesn't then just abort it and print one of your own. I set up Cura for a slow print with no banging around. According to Cura the print time is 1:11. If it is still drifting and shifting at those low numbers then it is certainly mechanical. Make sure your filament feed system allows scope for the print head to move back and forth as well as freedom of movement of the filament itself. GVCalibration_Shape.gcode GVCalibration_Shape.stl

In the Material section of the settings is "Bed Temperature Initial Layer". If it's hidden you can search for it, or next to the Search Settings box is an icon with three lines on it. Click on that and set the settings visibility to "All". If your StartUp Gcode has M140 S{material_bed_temperature} in it then that will interfere with the Bed Temperature Initial Layer. If that is the case then change the keyword in the Startup Gcode to {material_bed_temperature_layer_0}.

Printer definition files contain some setup information about your printer. Cura uses most of the information to tell itself the minimum and maximum speeds and acceleration, the build plate size, the StartUp G-Code and End G-Code, how many extruders, and most importantly, the firmware flavor. The CR-10 uses Marlin and the Chiron uses RepRap. If you use the CR-10 definition then your firmware flavor might be wrong. It should be "RepRap (Marlin Sprinter)". If things got scrambled (somehow) in the StartUp G-Code the printer could react as you describe. If your SD card is corrupt then the printer may not be reading the first part of the G-Code file correctly and will react as you describe. If you post a screenshot of the "Manage Printers | Machine Settings" window and a "bad" gcode file someone will take a look. If you format the SD card (FAT32) then that might solve the problem.

Part of this is what you are using the infill for. If it's for strength then "disconnecting" the interior structure will make the infill very weak. If the infill is there just to hold up surfaces that are being printed above then there are a couple of things you could do. Set the Infill Pattern to Lines, the Infill Layer Thickness to 2X layer height, and set the Infill Line Directions to [0,30,60]. That will give you a sparse (every other layer) infill and they will only line up every 7th layer. That's enough gaps in the infill that water should migrate out your hole. If you put holes in on opposite sides of the print you could add some pressure in one hole and blow the water out the other side.