SandervG

I don't have a Prusa myself, but sounds like you need to calibrate your 3D printer first, before you start to make a print. For making a print, you need a processed / prepared / sliced STL, that is where Cura steps in. But first you need to make sure your build plate is level. The Ultimaker 3 for example has active leveling, so the machine can do it for you. But the Ultimaker 2+ had manual leveling, so you had to do it yourself. It was fairly easy, and you didn't need Cura to do it for you. Could it be you need to level your bed manually first before you start printing?

It also depends on what material you use. In order for all of the material in your print core to melt (and be ready for extrusion), there is an ideal combination of settings (print speed and temperature) necessary. With PLA for example, you have a lot more room above the 'default' temperature (210ºC) to use which means you can also increase speed. ABS is already quite high on the max temperature, and therefore you can't print as fast. Besides that, printing slower allows for better layer bonding, which means less chance of delamination. So slower is usually better for ABS. If you are just looking for temperature resistance or strength, there are also alternatives which might get you closer to 16mm3/s. Printing with .4 print core, at 50mm/s and 200 micron means 4mm3/s, which is still no 16, but higher that 2.7 and should be doable. Have you tried printing at 300 micron or considered a .8 print core? I am not really familiar with s3D, so I don't know how optimized the profiles are. Perhaps (but again, dunno) Cura would allow you to print faster. Like Tom said, we do invest significant resources in optimizing Cura and its (Ultimaker) material profiles. Good luck!

It has been approximately one month after we notified you and our contributors about our intention to change our Cura license to LGPL. We’ve made some progress in the meantime and approximately half of all contributors have already responded. We’re still waiting on the remaining few. I’m happy that almost everyone was forthcoming regarding the license change and there seemed to be no difficulties. There was only a small group of 2 contributors who felt conflicted relicensing their contribution to Cura, which is fine. We’ll continue to explore how we can make this work for everyone. If it was not for a brighter future for Cura we saw ahead, we would not have asked for this change. Therefore we feel we should continue this path and we’ll continue talking to the contributors to see if we can work things out and find a middle ground. At some point we have to continue moving forward, and if a middle ground can’t be found we have to look at what other options there are left. This could mean considering to either abandon the contribution or rewrite it. In any case, we’ll try to do this in accordance with the contributor. We hope to activate the new license by the end of September.

hmmmm, I dunno....doesn't seem to ring a bell to me... nope. *cough cough*

Hi @Korneel, sorry to hear about the slow loading time on your side. Is it the forum overview page specifically that is slow (not the dashboard?) That page is also really slow for me. @UltiArjan, how fast is the forum on your side? Is it slower in NL than it is at other places? (Nilrog, your feedback is also noted..) The server migration should really have made it much faster. A bit disappointed about the results.. But outside of this, we're working on another solution from which I like to think it can not fail. I know we've tried many different things in the past already, the thing I like about it is that we invest time and money in trying to make the experience better, the fact we've only booked small results is not so nice. I can't say much about it yet but let's say there is light on the horizon.

Happy to hear you managed to get your print off, but I'm sorry that your first experience with the adhesion sheets was with PLA and it got so stuck. Well, at least we know that they work

Makes sense, although, after the initial investment and understanding that not all materials can be treated equally (engineers should understand), these sheets could make all the difference and turn those results around significantly. Keep us posted

Hey, I am all in favor of you buying a couple of extra Ultimaker's if you prefer And could be that some materials have like an oil on them, I spoke with a filament manufacturer that did that once. And perhaps this could negatively influence the grip our feeder has on it. Have you ever cleaned your knurled wheel, so there is no plastic dust in between all the teeth? Looking forward seeing all those projects

What about dedicating an additional print core to a certain set of materials? Or doing some thorough cleaning in between. Unless the diameter is different, I don't think you would need to change the tension on the feeder, do you? Sounds like a lot of prints! Anything you can share regarding all the projects you are working on?

I can second the advice to not use an adhesion sheet for PLA. Curious to know if heating it up will make the PLA soft and if you'll be able to get it off then. Sometimes people also put their buildplate in a freezer, but that is usually to save time on the cooling down process. I assume yours has cooled down by now.

whoops, you are right. *Monday mornings*! I changed it in my post to avoid any unnecessary confusion.

Different materials need different adhesives. That is the reason that we have these adhesion sheets, because not everything sticks on glass. The same goes the other way around, not every material needs an adhesion sheet. PLA sticks to glass just fine, the heat should provide enough adhesion. Alternatively, if your print is bigger you can add some glue and that should be it. Best tip for removing PLA print from the plate; don't use the adhesion sheet and just go for heat with glue.

Please keep us updated about your progress @traveler218. From both if a print core was not behaving as it should and how your next print is going. I was also thinking, those printers on which the PETG printed fine, what type of bed do they have? If it is not glass, it could be that PETG (or the one you have specifically) just does not adhere to glass that well. Could be interesting to give those adhesion sheets (or something similar) a try. The 2 small prints you made, where they also PETG or another material?

Thanks, it is certainly important! Currently we are always sharing the release notes of firmware in our blog under news: https://ultimaker.com/en/tag/news You can see among others the release notes of 3.7 in there. Would you have expected them else where? Please let us know and we can see how we can improve our communications

That is correct. For the Ultimaker 3, files will be released 12 months after the Ultimaker 3 was released. So October 18th. Luckily, that is not that far into the future. The reason for this being, we want this period of time to match the investment we made developing the machine.

Quality control is on the list And regarding anything in place to ensure the plates are good: improved agreements with the supplier and better control on a higher frequency by our inbound department. Seems to do the job

Sure, I can do it. Can you send me a dropbox link? Nylon by itself is more flexible than ABS, but we can compare

If you can not raise your bed temp perhaps you can consider to add blue tape or some of the adhesion sheets?

Sorry if you already shared this information, but did you already specify where you got your PetG filament from, which brand(s)? How comes the silicon padding on your photo is torn in 2? Did some filament made its way through at some point? At your latest fail, did it look like as if the print core was lower or was that really the case? Was it printing with that specific print core, or with the other one? I realize you want to print this model in PetG, but have you tried printing it in something else like PLA? If there are any similarities in how it fails, it could help us determine if it is a hardware problem, or perhaps the material.

Just realized I misunderstood and I was under the impression you were talking about a different part all the time, I thought you were asking for the rotating knob for some reason.. @dim3nsioneer's estimation is a bit cryptic but probably more accurate.

The app should return back in the store. Probably the same app though. I understand there was an issue with the apple store, but it has been resolved now. Should be a little time before everything is back in order

It should only be a few Euros, you could always ask for some information. But feel free to give it a try via this way first

Hi Chri, did you also get in touch with your reseller to see if they could help you out?

That looks great! ... But my birthday was in June! How did you get the chocolate out of the molds again? Did you make a flexible mold?

@Tomhe is on a holiday right now so it will be (I believe) not until next week until he can read it. @JstWantoRide, do you have a photo or any other way to determine how soft your print exactly is? That could help us determine if it is way beyond how it should be or what. On our site it says the following about Nylon: 'Good corrosion resistance to alkalis and organic chemicals'. I dunno what could affect Nylon that way. What does the surface look like? With holes or still intact?