SandervG

Hi @gcalin, Thank you for your post. Have you already tried contacting your reseller? They may be able to help you. There are ways to restore the firmware by restoring an image which they may be able to supply, but I would recommend to get in touch with them before you attempt any of those fixes. It may be scary that your Ultimaker 3 won't start up anymore, but rest assured there are fixes to restore it

Hi @DavidE1292, thank you for your post. Do you have an idea how long the PVA has been exposed to humidity? So, how long ago did you unpack it and how did you store it? PVA is sensitive to humid, both water and just in the air, and it can influence how it behaves. It will get softer, and the feeder motor can easily dig a hole in the filament. Do you have an idea about the humidity percentage where your Ultimaker is operating? If it is too humid, this is how you can try to evaporate the moist: Heating the filament for 2 hours at 45 - 55 °C. The easiest way to do this is by putting the spools in their original packaging (in a cardboard box, without a plastic bag) on the heated bed at the required temperature (45 - 55 °C). Warning: do not use a household oven. Make sure that the PVA filament has cooled to room temperature before inserting it into the 3D printer.

Hi @Sjorsvanos, thank you for your post. Could you explain what you do after a failed print? Is there a clear pattern that after a failed print the next one is always a success? Is it always 1 fail 1 success 1 fail 1 success etc? Do you know why your first print fails? Is your feeder grinding your filament? Is your nozzle clogged? Is filament getting stuck in your print core, but somewhere in the middle? Perhaps a good thing to check; is your front fan running? Check if there are any plastic strings preventing the blades from rotating, and if the cables are still inserted and not pinched anywhere. Looking forward hearing from you!

Hi @CCA1, yes, the bottom of your lowest axle. This value can be used to determine is print all at once can work and the print head can move over already printed parts without problems. You can tweak it if you would use different nozzles or a full third party print head. UltiGcode would be the right one in that case.

I am still not satisfied with you not being able to install any of the later versions. I will get you more help! Regarding X and the center, in Cura 2.7 at least the center of the buildplate is considered 0. When facing your Ultimaker, moving up is 'minus', and moving left is also 'minus'. I am not entirely sure, but pretty sure, when the centre of your build plate is not in the middle, it is in the 'top left'. Gantry hight means the size of your printhead, so the distance between the tip of your nozzle and the X and Y axis (so not necessarily the top of your printhead). The type of gcode is important depending on what type of 3D printer you have. Since you have an Ultimaker 2, it should be set to Ultimaker 2 (that is one of the options in 2.7 anyway).

Here is a positive update; the DNS configuration error that has been plaguing us for some time has been fixed. No more aws url's. Sharing a reply, logging out works again as normal.

Currently, such a feature is not supported by our forum, but I am also not sure if it would work. In this specific scenario, it would mean someone would have to read at least the last 5 pages to see if something was already reported. And I think we should be glad for everyone who takes time to write down their feedback, instead of just abandoning us. And we should keep that reporting-barrier as low as possible. What we do need, is just less bugs I'll do my best to contribute more to that feel good factor Thanks!

I'm sorry to hear the support and help you were offered was not in line with your satisfaction and expectations @xpandedreality, I'm sure we'll be able to find a way which will work for the both of us. I understand Robert sent you a message and a solution is probably already on its way! And thank you @rebekah_Harper for your kind words! We really do our best to make sure all of our customers are helped in the best way possible. And it is always satisfying to see that these intentions actually make it all the way into the user-experience

Hi guys, thank you for your feedback! Like @Dim3nsioneer says, we certainly read all feedback and make sure it is documented too. My apologies if a reply/confirmation does not always follow immediately. Like stated above, some bugs have been hunting us for over a couple of months. When a bug is reported for the so manieth time, but for the first time by a different user, a deceptive and easy culprit to fall into is to think the bug is already 'acknowledged' and replied to. For that moment not realizing the source is different, when it is just the receiver who is the same. Right now, I am not really allowed to be specific about the exact solution we are working on since it is not entirely clear and set in stone yet (and we have learned our lesson about false promises), but please take comfort in knowing your feedback, and the accumulated feedback over the last many months is really taken seriously and a solution should be presented (hopefully) soon. Thank you for your time and understanding.

Hi @Dennispo, thank you for your reply. Your heated bed is basically your build platform. So your Z-stage+glass bed. A build platform can be either heated or non-heated. Among some other of the 3D printers you seem to have, your Ultimaker 3 has a heated bed. It means that it can heat up, which can improve the adhesion for some materials and prevent other failures. If you heat it up and follow the previous instructions, the heat coming from your build plate can vaporize the moist in your PVA. Let me know if this is not clear Here is also a picture with the arrow pointing to your heated bed: http://take.ms/0iiKg

En ik zal je post naar 'Nederlands' verplaatsen, gezien de taal. Wanneer je in het 'algemene' forum wil plaatsen, graag in het Engels zodat iedereen het kan begrijpen. Bedankt voor je begrip!

Ha @Jan-verlaan, dat kan zeker. We hebben helaas te kampen met een configuratie fout in de DNS server, waardoor je via een omweg naar de juiste pagina wordt geleidt. Volledig veilig wel. Maar vanwege de omweg krijg je de melding. Als je op advanced klikt, kun je op doorgaan klikken en kom je als het goed is op de juiste pagina uit. Als 2e optie, zou je ook alles van 'elb.. tot .com kunnen vervangen door 'ultimaker', en dan zou je ook op de juiste pagina uit moeten komen. Onze excuses voor het ongemak! Hopelijk kom je er uit zo, anders horen we het graag!

Thanks Grandpa Bill for creating a topic. I'm sure we'll be able to figure it out. To be sure, I'll tag our experts @Nallath and @Ghostkeeper for their help. Since we are about to enter the weekend it may be a little bit longer than usual before they see the tag, but perhaps we're lucky

so how did it go? Did it go away and never come back?

That is probably it. By pushing it in with the sleeve pulled back, it will snap in place and you won't be able to pull it out. Good luck! (also check that you don't insert it upside down).

Hi @Tobox, thank you for your message. And I'm happy you managed to find your way around the aws part. It has been haunting us for too long now, it was the result from a server change which should make the whole site faster, but left an error in a configuration which generates this aws link in some occasions. I have received word the fix is around the corner.

Hi @Kattyisis, thank you for your message and taking the time to introduce yourself! Cosplay is really interesting! Do you have a gallery somewhere to show what things you make? Hopefully the Ultimaker 3 will offer you more satisfaction than your experience with resin. Why did it fail? Regarding the website, thank you for sharing your 2 cents with us! Its really helpful and will help us improve it. In what scenario did you have to remove the bowden tube, or did you not find it described clearly enough? For example, in this page (clogged print core) there are photo's and images that should help you. Did you not find this content, or is this not conclusive enough for you? Besides the actual content on the pages, we also have to make sure users are able to find the right documentation. So if perhaps this is the info you need, but you could not find it, that is also valuable feedback. There is a team dedicated to make the site better and more user friendly. And your feedback can help us do so! (main focus being able to find content over making the existing content more comprehensive).

Hi @Kattyisis, thank you for your reply! No problem. You can change your notification settings by clicking on your profile in the top right, click settings at the bottom > notifications and change the email frequency to immediately when you receive a reply or tag. How has it been going since your last post? If you have an Ultimaker 3, you should not connect it with USB. You should either send your files over wifi or use the USB slot to start print jobs using a USB drive. It is not set up to control the Ultimaker 3 over USB with Cura. There are a lot of things that can go wrong when printing over USB, like when your computer goes to sleep, or crashes it will ruin your 3D print. You also occupy your laptop for no reason throughout all this time. Here are some more guidelines if you need some. What I think is happening, is that you connect your Ultimaker 3 via USB to your computer, send your print over via wifi and then try to alter the temperature in Cura. Correct? You can however change temperature on the Ultimaker 3 itself using the display under the tune menu. Hope this helps!

Hi @Dennispo, do you have any way to measure the humidity in the space where you print and store your PVA? How do you store your PVA? If it is too damp, you can use these instructions to dry it again: Heating the filament for 2 hours at 45 - 55 °C. The easiest way to do this is by putting the spools in their original packaging (in the cardboard box, without a plastic bag) on the heated bed at the required temperature (45 - 55 °C). Warning: do not use a household oven. Make sure that the PVA filament has cooled to room temperature before inserting it into the 3D printer.

Oehh looks very interesting! I can not help to read 'Game of Thrones, the nautlius king' the first 4 times I read the title. I guess they own the word 'throne' now Will you also print it completely hollow if you want to illuminate various parts, or will you use infill to your advantage and use it to add effects to your model?

I've always found the website worldtimebuddy a great tool in these cases

Hi @nilrog, just wanted to say I saw your tweet about the major issues on our forum. I was writing a reply but something came in between and unfortunately, it never left draft-mode. I figured there was a bigger chance you would read my reply here (plus, I have more characters:)) We're aware of them and improvements are coming. We'll keep you posted via our forums about the progress, and as soon as I have specific information you guys will be the first to know. Our apologies for any inconvenience and my deep gratitude for sticking with us through some of these frustrating phases.

We have been working really, really hard to make sure you read about Volkswagen Autoeurope using Ultimaker 3D printers in their assembly factory. You may even read it twice already. But we are not done just yet! Together with Volkswagen Autoeurope we will also host a webinar on engineering.com on September 5th 2pm EDT. Together with Paul Heiden, the Senior Vice President of Product Management at Ultimaker, one of the Volkswagen Autoeurope leading engineers will explain how Volkswagen Autoeuropa uses Ultimaker 3D printers to create manufacturing aids in-house, raising production standards and achieving significant cost savings. When I read about this Business case for the first time, I was pretty impressed with how such a big assembly line used Ultimakers and how quickly they adapted their workflow to match a relatively new additive manufacturing method like (desktop) 3D printing. I'm pretty sure the presentation we'll receive during the webinar will also be vert interesting, but what I think is really a unique opportunity, is that you will also have the opportunity to ask questions directly to their lead engineer and our own Senior Vice President of Product Management, Paul Heiden. That is an opportunity you don't get very often. If you are interested, follow this link and register for free for the webinar. It will only take a couple of minutes and you are assured of a front seat!

Looks pretty good @Traveler218!! some small strings but they should be easily removed with some pliers or a knife. You could remove them completely with an optimized print profile, but lets make it work reliably first! If material got stuck to the nozzle, did this happen with active leveling or have you turned this off? (I believe we talked about it earlier). Which of the fans did not run? Curious to see how it will continue!

Hi @Alib0001, we're sorry to hear you are having difficulties with your new Ultimaker 3. I talked about it with our product experts, and we feel the best course of action would be to get in touch with your reseller and ask for a new Ultimaker 3. Using the recovery image could hold a solution, but there is an equal chance that it is hardware related and there is a loose cable or disconnection. In any case, that the screen remains blank and you see an orange light means there are communication issues in the electronics. There is a risk of ESD damage when working with the electronics, and the last thing we would want to do is add more issues on top of the current one. Therefore, the safest solution would be to get in touch with your reseller. Let us know if you have any further questions, good luck!