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I think that looks right. I see you copied the pin numbers from E1 to E0. But there are so many board types it's confusing but I think you got the right one. Note that many UM2 printers don't have the second extruder servo driver installed. So look on the back side of that board where all the chips are loaded and the servo drivers are large square chips - there's one "near" each connector. Make sure there isn't an empty spot for E1.

Do you have firmware version 6.1.1? Did you update recently?

The second problem is probably related to your core - the teflon inside is probably too big of an inner diameter. If it's at all old I'd just get a new one. Or try your other AA core. Core's are considered expendable and when you think about it you spend MUCH less money on cores than on filament. Do you have an IR temperature gun? How do you know it's too hot? This is pretty rare for the print bed - if anything it tends to be the other way around - increase resistance makes the temp sensor read too hot even though it isn't and the bed ends up being too cold.

You could also write a post processing plugin extension if you know how to write code. They are in python and there are example ones you can start with. You could add a little bit to every Y position depending on the X position (or vice versa). Something like y+= x/200*0.3 (over 200mm course of X, add 0.3mm - linearly).

There are 2 common things that can be crooked. The entire frame. Or just the cross bars through the head. First check the two bars through the head for perpendicularity. I usually assume the frame is fine and just push the head to the center of each of 4 sides and check that the blocks are hitting all at the same time. If not loosen a set screw and make the 2 bars perpendicular. However if your printer landed on one of the 4 vertical corners (or a true corner) it may now be out of square (the gantry). Some people have just put tons of weight on the printer to get it back in square. I've never had to fix this but if it were me I would loosen all the screws first and try to shove it back into square. Sometimes people purchase just the top plate of the printer to get the gantry square again. You can get any part of the printer by contacting your reseller. If you don't know who your reseller is then you can just contact one of the bigger sellers in your area.

Did you look at your part in PREVIEW mode in the slicer? That will let you know if there is anything to print. There could be a problem with your model (for example walls too thin) where there is actually nothing that can be printed with the current Cura settings.

I'm pretty sure it *does* retract when it does "lift head". But retraction only lasts for a second or so - enough time to jump to a new part of the print. But lift head will often sit in the air for 3 seconds - plenty of time for a micro sausage to come out and then get deposited on the print when it starts printing again. The only good solution I've seen is to print a tower next to the part so that the print head can go to the tower and print a little bit to give the print time to cool (just a few seconds is usually enough. Keep the tower in a position such that when the head goes to it the fans blow on your part (if possible). Instead of a tower, sometimes I print 2 or 3 or even 7 of the same part. While printing one parts the other parts all have time to cool.

So strange!! 500kb doesn't sound large for an STL. I'm thinking it has nothing to do with your model. Let me try to slice it. Please post your *project* file. not your STL. The project file contains your STL and all settings and position of the STL and your machine settings and much more. Do "file" "save..." and post the file.

I would just hand edit the gcode to remove the top two layers. Just literally cut them out. Each layer is labelled in comments in the gcode file so it's easy to find every layer. You can search for the letter Z which will likely appear quite a bit in the first 30 lines of code but then only once per layer (unless you have zhop enalbed which hopefully not). It's almost certainly a "brightness" issue as kman says.

You can also get a cheap chinese fake UM2 circuit board - but be warned, the ones I've seen have removable stepper drivers and you might also have to buy those but the prices are extraordinary. Anyway yes if it were me I would use E1. There's a file called "pins.h" which says which pins to use for all the steppers. That's the only file you have to edit. Compiling the code is more complicated. Here's some instructions which have been edited so I think it's mostly straightforward. Still it may take an hour or two out of your life even if you are familiar with compilers: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/16856-how-to-build-marlin-the-way-tinkerghome-and-ultimaker-do-it-if-you-have-windows/

It's possible the STL file has too many millions of triangles in it. How big is the STL file? Try setting layer height to 1mm (just to speed things up as a test - fewer layers I assume needs less memory).

I'm not sure but I'm thinking maybe those lines are in your cad model? I think maybe you have a "plane" under your model defined by those 4 triangles shown with dashed lines. Can you post your project file please? Do "file" "save..." and that saves your project file and then you can post it here. Project file will contain your STL plus your printer settings, profile and more.

I'm not sure what you mean but I'll walk you through the more manual way to change filaments. In the menu system find the menus that control nozzles and feeders? I think maybe menu on left side middle tab? Then click on the filament type for the core you care about. I assume it will say PLA near the top left corner of the window. Click that and then somewhere you can get to a submenu by clicking 3d dots "..." (but 3 dots vertical). Maybe upper right corner? Then in there is a "move" option. Click that and it will heat up the nozzle. While you are waiting for it to heat up - on both feeders is a lever. Lift that lever all the way up and it will stay up. At this point the feeder is disengaged (like neutral in a car). when the temperature gets to around 160C you can pull the filament out manually below the feeder. It's okay to pull very hard - 20 pounds of force is fine. Once it's out you can remove the spool, put a new spool on and feed it in the same way. No need to tell the printer you changed filament if the new filament type is also PLA. If the new filament is a different material then next to the "move" button there is a "select type" button to let you select the new material type either automatically (it will read the RFID tag off the spool if it can) or you can scroll to the new material, click it and then click "confirm". When you put the new material in don't forget to close that lever once you've feed the filament all the way in and then use the "move" command I mentioned earlier and use the arrow pointing down to push the filament through the nozzle and extrude enough until the new color shows up.

I don't know much about profiles, sorry but what I do is I use "projects" instead. Every time I slice something I also do "file" "save..." and save the project file int he same folder. Then when I slice something new I think "okay - it's similar to that hinge I printed yesterday - nylon with 0.6mm nozzle and no support needed". So I load the project file for the hinge and it loads all my settings and overrides that I had for that print. I used profiles several years ago for like 2 weeks and decided to never go back. I hear people complain about them all the time and I just say "use project files instead".

So I got your part to slice with .4mm line widths by setting "horizontal expansion" to just 0.1mm. That will make your part .1mm thicker all around but I'm guessing that's okay? .05 worked as well but .1mm was better. I'm more worried about the top/tip of your part now. That's not going to print well. I'd print the part horizontally to get a nice tip but I have a printer that can use dissolvable support (PVA) and I assume you don't since the Ender 3 only has one extruder. Not only is it not printing the last few mm of the tip, even the parts it *does* print are going to look like crap because there is no time for the filament to cool so you are just gong to get a big blob for the last cm or so. I have no solutions here other than printing sideways but then you need support which will look kind of lousy on the side with the support - but I think that's your best option.

Cura has some "new" (a year or two old now) profiles called "engineering" which are more precise (and not as pretty) but they are only available for the S5 and newer profiles. But the good news is you can apply the same overrides to any profile. Here is what engineering settings have setup: dimensional accuracy profile - engineering settings - accuracy mode Line width: 0.4 Wall thickness: 1.2 Top/Bottom thickness: 1.2 Speeds: 35-40 (first 7 speeds, all except travel) Jerks: 20 Horizontal expansion: -0.03 walls: 3 Inital Layer Height = 0.1 Slicing Tolerance = Exclusive Combing Mode = off Outer before Inner Walls = Checked

Please post the project file. Do "file" "save...". This file will contain your STL and your machine settings, the profile you chose the overrides, how you place the model and lots more. Try setting "line width" to 0.2mm just as a test to see what happens. I'd try it right now but want to see you whole profile.

> All the reasons you mentioned are why I would like a cover over it. Unfortunately that makes it much harder for me to give you a good answer. So if you have kids know that you can stick your hand in the gantry and your hand will survive without much or any pain (the print will be ruined of course). So if this was the only reason then don't get a cover. You shouldn't be printing ABS which is the only material I know of that really emits nasty smells. Most materials (PLA, PETG, Nylon) have very little smell. Research studies suggest that the dangers of the particulates in the air are no worse and no different than what you would find at a McDonalds but much higher quantities at a McDonalds. Basically frying bacon for 15 minutes is probably much worse for your health than printing for 1 hour. Ultimaker published a report about this and there are a few articles (mostly trying to scare you so read them carefully). So because of all this there isn't as much demand for filters and so that's going to be much more difficult. But if you just want to raise air temp then a simple cover is fine. You can measure the air temp with a thermometer but most solutions are perfect. You want the air around 30C to 45C for most prints - much hotter than that and you are in danger of damaging the servos. Even with the bed at 110C it's hard to get the air above 35C so you don't really need any kind of thermal control for printing things like Nylon. DO NOT close the door or use the cover for PLA if possible. It will tend to make prints worse as you want the air closer to room temperature for PLA.

Yes that would be nice! Cura is made with qt I think. I'm not sure if it's easy to make repositories with qt? I use ubuntu and appImage and it works well for me but it would be nice if I could use apt-get. The nice thing about appImage is I can have multiple versions of Cura. There are forked versions of Cura that have critical features I need sometimes that aren't merged into the main branch.

This is 8 months old and now Cura 4.8 is out. Do you have the problem with Cura 4.8 also? If so then please start a new topic and mention it's 4.8 and also please include the log file. Where to get log file: %APPDATA%\cura\<Cura version>\cura.log (Windows), or usually C:\Users\\<your username>\AppData\Roaming\cura\<Cura version>\cura.log $USER/Library/Application Support/cura/<Cura version>/cura.log (OSX) $USER/.local/share/cura/<Cura version>/cura.log (Ubuntu/Linux) Because you are a very new user you might not be able to upload your log file here (not sure). If you can't then upload it to some free service like google drive or dropbox and post a link.

No. 80% sure it won't fit. The 2+ I think has a top more like the UM3? I don't have the UM2+C but I don't think it will fit. @Smithy care to comment? However there are lots of 3rd party covers. If you are in the USA look at printedSolid.com. Why do you need this? Depending on your needs I have different recommendations. For example are you printing high temp materials and you need higher air temp? Or are you printing ABS and need to filter the air? Or are you just trying to keep kids fingers out? Or something else?

I recommend not using z-hop - it depends on the printer but I recommend it mostly only for delta printers. It can give your print lots of ugly horizontal lines in "random" places because the Z axis in most printers has at least 0.05mm of play (that's a half of a tenth of a millimeter!) and that's plenty to make it over or underextrude a layer because the nozzle distance to the part varies and gives you layers that stick out (or inward). On a delta printer, all 3 servos are moving all the time anyway. Some printers just have a rock solid Z movement so it's fine.

Was the clock stopped by lightning? 🙂 I recognized it right away. Not sure why.

Yikes. But you make it sound like you have to have the distributor slice the files for you?