gr5

Something sounds wrong with your gantry. Try pushing the head around to the 4 corners and feel the friction. You might need to check that the 2 rods are square (my previous post) or maybe add one drop of oil to each of the 6 rods in the gantry (light machine oil such as 3 in 1 oil or sewing machine oil). Each axis basically has 6 pulleys (although two of them are bonded together) and each of these 12 pulleys has a set screw and if one is a bit loose it would explain your issue. It only has to be a tiny bit loose. So the issues that I'm thinking about: 1) slipped stepper steps due to excess friction 2) slipping pulleys due to set screws not tight enough Other possibilities: stepper driver too weak. VERY unlikely unless the room that your printer is in is above 35C.

The head is the part with the nozzles. There are two long steel rods that go through it. They are supposed to be perpendicular but often aren't because one of the 4 belts slips a tooth. The fix is to loosen the two set screws on the pulleys on one of the 4 long belts and adjust until it seems square by feel and by eye and then retighten. When these are crooked you can get excess friction (plus your square parts are a little trapezoidal).

disable "union overlapping volumes" and that should fix the issue. Except are you sure you only have one STL loaded? It looks like two different stl files are printing at the same time.

I believe it's 25W nominal but typically it's as low as 18W. Any wattage from 25W to 40W will work fine. Going above 35W you may have to adjust your PID values a little bit to keep the temperature from oscillating. I recommend 30 to 35W if you are buying a new one.

This is what cura is supposed to do. Print what you tell it to print. Cura does not do volume XOR or volume subtraction. Instead try to do this operation in solidworks - it might be called "boolean subtract". I've never used solidworks but it can definitely do this.

Try changing the nozzle height with power off by pushing the head into the switching mechanism and sliding it forward and backwards. Does it work? Or does something hit something such that it won't go in properly? Also check that your thin rods that go through the print head appear to be perpendicular when looking down on them from overhead.

Personally, if I had to do this, I would probably want to use the PVA support feature and I still prefer my UM3 over my S5 (unless I'm printing something too big for the UM3). So I would get two Um3s. Or one UM3 and spend the savings on filament. Also you might want to consider casting - you can print the mold instead and cast the organ with silicone which you can get in many different softnesses. For example mold max comes in hardness 10,20,25,30,40 (all of them flexible but 40 is 4X stiffer than moldmax 10).

You mean if you connect the USB part way through a print it will halt the print?

Set line width to your nozzle width or just make a note of what the value is (e.g. maybe it's 0.35mm) then search for "wall" just above the settings and set "wall thickness" to exactly 2X or 3X that value and you will see that "wall line count" just automatically gets calculated properly. So if you want .35mm line width and 3 walls set wall width to 1.05mm.

It's possible to do this if you add a cuboid stl file that envelops these layers where you want a different infill setting. but if you want to do this more than 3 or so times it starts to get to be a lot of work to create and position all these cuboids.

TPLA should be weaker than regular PLA on a pull test according to UM specs and I trust those specs mostly. It should be tougher if you step on it or drop it or try to use it for a quadcopter arm or a bridge but if you use it for a chain in a chain link it should be weaker. If you measure tension alone it is weaker but it's more flexible and stretches just enough that it spreads the load when used for something like a beam. And if you drop it it will bounce a bit more before it breaks than regular PLA. correction added later: Actually it will be weaker as a beam as well. I just spent an hour re-reading how to measure beam flex and beam strength and all about something called "flexural stress". So TPLA is definitely weaker (just a little) than PLA but if you drop it or step on it or hit it with a hammer it will bend a bit and is less likely to break.

Can you show what the top of the model is supposed to look like? Is that supposed to be a chimney? Also, unrelated, it's good to slow down printing speed but keep travel fast. 150mm/sec minimum.

When using cura I almost never make settings visible anymore - I just type one word in the search box and it shows only relevant settings. So for example I might type "layer" to find and change layer height or "line" to adjust the line widths or "infill" to adjust my infill percentage. There's just too many settings to show them all. And if I want to quickly review what settings I overrode I click the star in the profile/quality area. That lists in italics the things I overrode.

If it's only the bottom layer that's fused then you can use an exacto knife (a razor) and clean it up. I usually do initial-horizontal-expansion at -0.25. normally. With a 0.4mm nozzle.

You can I believe buy only the bondtech gears with the splined feeder part and design your own feeder around that. The UM3 feeder works quite well though in my experience.

I don't recommend a 1.75 conversion unless you have at least $400 or 400 euros of 1.75 filament that you don't know what to do with.

No!!! lol. That's exactly what I said not to do. Instead be patient and print at half speed.

They keep spelling "hobbed bolt" as "hobbet bolt" in the instructions. Anyway I'm not familiar with this filament. It recommends hardened steel which I think UM uses. Um does a gnurled surface (triangles) instead of the splined surface. If you really want a spline you can by the DDG kit for UM3 which I sell in my store (if it's not in stock I can get it pretty fast): https://thegr5store.com/store/index.php/um3-up.html But I suspect the existing feeder will be fine. You might want to print at about 1/4 normal speed or 1/2 normal speed so the feeder doesn't have to work so hard. So you must have access to a kiln. This layceramic stuff is neat.

If you change the % infill it will change the spacing. I think the problem is a harmonic resonance of the bed. The input vibration is from the number of times the nozzle hits the infill per second. That causes the initial up-and-down shaking (but very gentle initially) and if that frequency is close to the harmonic frequency of the bed then the shaking is amplified. Just a theory. But if correct then changing the frequency will fix the problem. So possibly changing the infill % by a large amount (double or half) might help. Definitely pushing it to the back of the glass should help.

You could also by a pair of DDG feeders from my store ? https://thegr5store.com/store/index.php/um3-up.html

Do the pull test to be sure. It *might* be unrelated. I doubt it but it might be unrelated. Did fbrc8 send you only the lever? Maybe they should send you the whole feeder if it still fails my pull test.

I don't know those cads. So look at the model in "xray" view in cura and if you see any red that is definitely a severe cad issue. But no red doesn't mean there isn't any cad issues.