Dim3nsioneer

Then you just have to find the small guy with the ring in your office... he will save you all...

With the brim you change the thermal airflow induced by the heated bed. Best solution certainly is to increase bottom/top height as Robert suggested. Alternatively you may try to put some cardboard or similar around your print when some millimeters are printed to block the thermal airflow and check if it makes a difference.

To my personal experience single walls might be helpful for custom support structures (easy to break away). But I understand that redesigning the slicer engine is not on the todo list. Maybe Tim comes up with an ingenious algorithm for the support in Cura... so custom support structures will be obsolete...

@EldRick: How did you get the sizes of the individual boxes? Do you have a special software for calculating the diffusors? @Valcrow: The baffles you probably mean are absorbers. These are diffusors that distribute the sound in a way you don't get a clear reflection on the glass front behind.

@PeggyB: Very good idea. Markforged does this with the nozzle of their carbon fibre printer...as it wears out quite quickly.

Maybe not the least important question: Will it be open source?

Yes. No ranking please. For the very same reasons as UltiArjan wrote. For the forum's sake. Especially no bonuses such as filament discount based on the number of posts or similar. This would simply kill the spirit of the forum. A better search engine would also be greatly appreciated here.

I think Sander was referring to Cura directly. A plugin cannot tweak the layer height directly. However the SwapAtZ plugin lets you combine two different layer heights coming from two different gcode files.

@Uwe: Empfehle, das heated bed kit für den UMO zu kaufen. Das ist nämlich genau das Heizbett vom UM2 und kommt mit allem, was Du brauchst.

For those who are interested in a preview version of the TweakAtZ plugin intended to be bundled with the next Cura version, please have a look at this post: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4270-new-versions-of-cura-plugins-tweakatz-and-retractwhilecombing/&do=findComment&comment=78891

Bad news first: There will be no TweakAtZ V3.3. Good news: There will be a TweakAtZ V4.0 :mrgreen: I decided to increase the main number as the plugin has seen some quite substantial changes. It would be great if it could be released with the next Cura version. However, some of you might want to test it first. I would greatly appreciate it. Any feedback is welcome, please tell me issues you have with it but also if it works fine for you. There is a release canditate ready for download and installation in the Cura plugin folder: https://github.com/Dim3nsioneer/Cura-Plugins/raw/development/TweakAtZ.3.99-RC1.py It works with Cura versions starting from 14.10RC5 (best used with 14.11RC7). This is the new input of the plugin: About the new entries: - 'No. of layers used for change': If you leave 1 here the plugin behaves as always. If you put in a larger number here, you get a stepwise tweaking. Example: enter '5'; tweak the print temperature from 210°C to 200°C; on the first tweaked layer, the new temperature will be 208°C, on the second tweaked layer 206°, then 204°, 202°C and finally on the fifth tweaked layer 200°C - Tweak behavior: The first option represent the previous behavior of the plugin. The second option changes the value(s) only for a single layer. On the next layer, parameters are reset to the previous values - ALSO ON THE UM2! (well, from the point on you have the next firmware version on your machine which will be bundled with Cura; or you download the present level from Github and compile it yourself). - New TOTAL Speed: This is the speed factor as you know it from the past. Both travel speed and print speed are affected. It corresponds to the speed factor in both UMO and UM2. - New PRINT Speed: Only print speed is changed. New print speeds are actually calculated throughout the GCODE file (from that layer on). The TweakAtZ plugin also got its own progress bar during execution, but unfortunately not on Macs as some of the Python libraries do not include a feature used there. However, this progress bar update was made within Cura and not only within the plugin code. Therefore this feature can also be used by other plugins and the code in the TweakAtZ plugin might serve as an example. If you have questions, please ask...

Yep. I stick to my opinion: no ranking, no rating, just people helping each other on the forum.

Yes please !!! :mrgreen: Usually, I don't like things that create a kind of competition on places which are made for people helping people...

Try the SwapAtHeight plugin written by pm_dude.

Die Gewindestange der z-Achse ist nicht sauber zur Motorenachse ausgerichtet. Die beiden Achsen müssen ziemlich präzise konzentrisch zueinander sein damit das regelmässige Muster verschwindet. Häufig hilft es, die z-Mutter mittels Karton o.ä. zu fixieren.

Because it's faster without retraction...

Ooohhhh...that's just a bit too much for a Sunday evening... :oops: But I'm glad it worked (hopefully!) for you... :-P

Did you by chance open the print bed cover at the back? If yes, check that it's sitting properly again there and not scratching the z bars. I found I could remount mine slightly tilted to the front...

Do this, but don't blame me if the print fails... :wacko: Good luck!

Check these models in the x-ray view. If there is something displayed in red, it's a problem with the model, most probably a so-called non-manifold surface. In most cases there is just a hole somewhere in the model. You also can open the expert settings and play around with the four 'fix horrible' settings. Personally, I would check the 'fix horrible B' setting first...

I managed to do this by jamming a screwdriver between motor and the white motor case. Not a very elegant way but it works...

Yes, this is exactly the thread I meant. I wrote my previous post on the smartphone and therefore couldn't add a link.

Have you enabled combing (expert settings)? If yes, disable it and use reasonable numbers for minimum travel distance before retraction and minimum extrusion amount... I use 5mm for the first and 0 for the second. If you get blobs on top then avoid z-hopping.

In my case I can rather exclude this possibility. I compiled Ultimaker2Marlin from the Github source and had the new behavior with a version on the level of 14.09.1 (the change was obvious on the display of the temperature in the 'heat up nozzle' option). And I had the banding. When I changed from bang-bang mode to PID mode, I hardcoded even the numbers I found with the autotune feature into the Marlin code. I always upload my self-compiled versions with the Arduino software not with Cura.

There is a whole thread about it here in the forum. You find it best by googling it with 'site:umforum.ultimaker.com'