Dim3nsioneer

No problems here. RC5 works as it should, including layer view...

Very informative indeed. Do you know if the three 'suppliers' were actually three different brands (at least two of them being not UM) or three companies which all deliver filament to UM which is then sold as UM-Filament?

Please see this thread for news about the plugin page on the Ultimaker Wiki: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/8011-ultimaker-wiki-cura-plugins/

Maybe I missed this completely: Which video are you guys talking about? :???: edit: Thanks Didier for the video links below...!

Neue Farbe: Prosthetic Pink (ideal z.B. für Prothesen, die hautähnlich wirken sollen)

You may also export support and model together and import the new model in Cura.

Bitte Daids Thread im englischen Teil unter 'Cura' lesen...

Illuminarti here on the forum is the head of fbrc8 which produces and delivers the Ultimaker printers for North America. If you send him a pm he will certainly have a look into your case.

- begins with the line ';UltiGCode' - lacks of temperature settings - uses volumetric information for the 'E' parameter (cubic mm) - uses G10 and G11 for retract / un-retract that's it more or less...

Yes, you can. But the adhesion is not the same on every type of glass. For instance, I use a mirror glass tile from IKEA on my custom heated bed on the UMO. And PLA sticks like welded to the glass. I recently had to put a mirror tile with the print on it for three days :!: into the fridge until it came of. The standard glass on the UM2 has - well- acceptable adhesion when heated to the very same temperature (60°C). I also have the impression that the UM2 glass (where you can see some interferences) is not as even as the mirror tile which has to be perfectly even as you would see this in the mirror... At the moment I don't know yet what the exact difference between the two glass types is but I'm working on it...

The easiest way to get your customized version of Marlin is certainly this http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/.

I use a unflavored dish agent as I actually prefer the pure stuff (this means I don't print any PLA/PHA and I drink no other whisky than single malt ).

To my personal experience cheap filament, coming mostly from China, is not worth buying. I recommend you spend rather a few bucks more on quality filament which you will enjoy much more as you have not half the issues as with cheap, brittle and too thick filament. There are plenty recommendations here on the forum from e.g. gr5 or illuminarti about quality filament available in the USA. Just google it using 'site:umforum.ultimaker.com'...

I reduced the z motor current from the standard 1300mA to 900mA and found the z stage of the UM2 much more quiet afterwards. At least my UM2 doesn't seem to have a problem to run the z stage also with the reduced current.

I was involved in the implementation of the preheat menus. Some people have custom heated beds which need quite some time to heat up. Thus the heat bed only option. The '1' options relate to multi-extruder systems where you have also a '2' (and so on) option and an 'all' option. The case to heat up a nozzle and not the bed was not considered, that's true. The people involved into the extension didn't see a necessity for it. Personally, I still don't see any as I'm not a blue-tape-guy anymore (I was one before I built my own heated bed). But that's of course quite a biased opinion... For heating up the nozzle only you will have to use the control menu. Of course you are free to extend the firmware even further (as it is open source!) and to issue a pull request for an additional preheat option. You have to know that changing something in the menus is quite a pain due to the fact that in the meantime there are 13 to 14 different languages the entries want to be covered for. As I understand you have some issues with the adhesion on the glass bed. There is one thing you should never do on glass which you might be used to from blue tape: wipe it with alcohol, e.g. isopropanole. Actually you can wipe it with alcohol, but after that please make sure you clean it off with water and maybe a mild cleaning agent (I use dishwashing agent which includes lactide acid that leads to a very nice adhesion for PLA). I hope this helps you to understand why the firmware is as it is and to enjoy successful printing directly on glass.

Not directly in Cura, but you may try the Swap at Z plugin by pm_dude: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7290-new-plugin-swap-at-height/

Did you actually print it? I also found that 0.4mm is not thick enough for Cura (at least not without the fix horrible B setting). I once made a 0.5mm support and sliced it with Cura. And the width of the print is: 0.5mm! Cura does indeed draw two lines but one of them is drawn with just about a quarter of the volume and shifted by 0.1mm in respect to the other line. Very clever!

What about having the plugins on Youmagine? The bigger issue than the plugins themselves is the corresponding documentation. Maybe a solution can be found which makes sure plugins are well documented and maintained.

Might be worth to play around with the z jerk for a start...

The infill and the two shell speeds apply if there are non-zero.

Would be interesting to see how it looks with the standard fan duct and fans reduced to 20% or even less.

Great news. It seems the pink unicorn gets some afterburners... :cool:

Thanks for the pdf links. At first sight these algorithms look quite promising. It would be nice to know what the license situation on them is.

Reboot? Helped me once with a similar issue. Certainly installing the newest graphic drivers will not hurt... it might be that your present opengl drivers are not so harmonic with Win8.1. You really were forced to upgrade? I still run my laptop with 8.0 and was not yet forced to upgrade...it's the machine I slice all the prints with Cura 14.07... o-oh... :huh:

Yes, it's fw-controlled: Maintenance - Advanced - Motion - Current E... if I'm not completely wrong...