Dim3nsioneer

A year ago we had a lot of contributions from @ian, @illuminarti and @daid. Of the past top scorers only @gr5 is keeping his pace... Well, all of the three gentlement just mentioned have their reasons not to be (that much) present here on the forum anymore... @labern: I have bad news for you. You're not allowed to give up 3D printing. Not until you delivered a working miniature chain saw...

Now I see your point. You compare the situation of the nozzle PID settings with the bed PID setting. Sorry for not seeing it earlier, it's 30°C+ since a few days here...

Maybe I'm spoilt with the quality my Ultimaker2 / Olsson Block with RSB nozzle / Diamond Age PLA combination delivers but it doesn't impress me very much. @gr5 for instance shows a picture around of an Ultimaker robot printed on his UMO with better overall quality... However, the ears are much better than usual I have to admit... so the air flow seems to be quite good.

I think your point 3 is very important and might be the main reason for your issue. I recommend a replacement with an Olsson Block. Then you might consider the usage of a stainless steel nozzle for the glowfil filament. And, as @labern pointed out, make sure the bed surface is clean.

btw: what makes you think the autotune feature gives bad values?

Right, I was interested in fine tuning without recompiling. So you adjust the parameters with M304 and when you found the 'right' ones, you write them into the source code and recompile it once. You anyway had to recompile the source code in order to activate pid for the bed, correct?

How did you check btw. that the rods are straight?

Save it in the configuration.h and recompile it.

It certainly helps for parts with overhangs in all directions but there is also a 'blind' spot of the right fan on the UM2... only a radial symmetric hotend design with fans all around would not have this problem (or to some degree an equal laminar flow over the whole bed).

Yes, Windows is a known issue... But you already have Windows 10... I guess it will take some time until Daid & Co. can react on Windows 10 specific issues of the legacy Cura - if they ever will. In the meantime make sure you have the newest graphic card drivers as the error seems to be related to opengl. And you might try some compatibilty mode settings...

Just make sure your UMO is not screwed up on the scale of that screw... Have fun, guys!

That's only true for the original stepper drivers. With other drivers such as the DRV8825 from Pololu the difference is much smaller, almost negligible.

As I happen to have both UMO and UM2 I can tell you that I mostly use the UM2. However, I decided to upgrade the UMO with the HBK as I have some plans for this machine as well. And yes, there is a significant noise level difference; it's just the wooden frame of the UMO which makes it extremely difficult to get the sound level somewhere near the UM2. I think the UMO is the right choice if you want to significantly modify it, e.g. with a different hotend, direct drive, cross-flow fan, etc. If you just want good prints, buy an UM2, extended or not. If you want really good prints, add an Olsson block to the UM2... I don't know if upgrading the UMO electronics to the 2.x board makes sense. Be aware you have to replace the hotend temp sensor.

Did you uncomment just "#define PIDTEMPBED" or "#define BED_LIMIT_SWITCHING" as well? Just the first.

Indeed! That looks serious! Get well soon!

Hallo Thomas, willkommen im Forum! Supportfrage Nr. 1 wäre wahrscheinlich: "Haben Sie den Stecker ganz eingesteckt? Die wirst Du wahrscheinlich mit ja beantworten können, d.h. der Stecker ist im gesicherten Zustand und Du musst zuerst die Zugsicherung lösen, bevor Du ihn rausnehmen kannst? Hast Du eine Idee wieso das Problem erst nach sechs Monaten auftritt? Ist ev. eine Lötstelle auf der Platine schlecht und es ist gar nicht der Stecker selbst? Ich würde nach Überprüfung des festen Sitzes des Steckers mal mit dem Support von IGO3D Kontakt aufnehmen (service@igo3d.com).

@lars86: Yes, the bed is set to PID mode since then.

Guys... I'm so sorry... this is embarrassing... It was not the pcb. It was me. Stupid. Arrgh. The answer is in the OP. I had my own heated bed. With an NTC. What do you need to change on the UM shield when you have a NTC? Yes, you need to add a 4.7kOhm resistor to R4. AND YOU HAVE TO TAKE IT OUT AGAIN WHEN YOU INSTALL A HEATED BED KIT FROM ULTIMAKER!!! (sorry for shouting) The additional resistor reduced the analog signal at temp2 and made the firmware believe the temperature is higher due to the negative slope of the add-on pcb. @neotko: Thanks anyway for the generous offer!

Hi guys Yes, I need you help... I installed an UM heated bed kit and the temperature reading says 38°C at room temperature (btw. the temperature of both hotends also at room temp say 21-23°C). So temperature measurement is wrong. A quick test with heating to what should be 60°C show something like 45°C (measured with IR thermometer) effectively (yes, the sensor reacts). So it seems to be something like an offset. Resistance of the PT100 directly measured says 108 ohms, which is 23°C. Something wrong with the add-on PCB? I have to say I had to cut the 3 wire cable for sig/5V/GND between the UM shield and the add-on pcb. The reason is simple: I had my own heated bed before and therefore had to mount a terminal with screws for Temp2. Does someone know what voltage there should be between signal and GND for room temp? Any help is welcome, especially if this topic has been posted before (did a search with Google and it was negative): then please just post a link... Thanks!

When the extruder motor skips it does indeed go back rapidly... like in .As temperature and speed correspond (we are talking about PLA, nothing else, are we?) you might have an issue which blocks the extrusion somehow. Could be something in the nozzle, or something in the Bowden tube. Try a cold pull if you don't have yet. edit: What do you mean by ?

Those guys from Scandinavia are always up to something...

Sounds to me as if you experience skipping of the extruder motor. As it happens at 3mm height, it's most probably because you try to print to fast and/or at too low temperature. Can you please give us those numbers (speed and temperature)?

They won't.

@UM: 'Yesterday' please as we all want to know the solution...

I was considering that too. When I check all the infill settings in Preferences > Infill, I do not see a setting that might be related to the infill line width. I do see a setting "Infill Thickness", the default of which is 0 mm. This seems to be "The thickness of the sparse infill". I have no idea what "sparse infill" is. zero might be a difficult number for a line width or a fill factor. Try '0.4' instead (assuming you're printing with the standard nozzle size) and check if something changes...