DidierKlein

Si tu regardes le lien de darkdvd tout est expliqué, je pense que le mieux c'est de repartir sur un level manuel pour mettre le plateau le plus à plat possible. Par la suite tu peux retenter le niveau auto

Pas de mise à jour du firmware? Si tu as le soucis avec Slic3r et Cura c'est que ça vient d'autre chose que du slicer d'après moi

it could be to thin indeed, there is a setting called print thin layers that you can check maybe Or change the line width just slightly to see the differences? Or i would advise to contact the designer maybe he knows the trick?

Hi and welcome, Can you post some pictures maybe? Or the file?

Hi Jonny, Thanks for this! Do you think it's a good idea to add pdf and xls as potential uploadable files? I can suggest this to @SandervG as you maybe know the forum sopftware is quite new and we are always looking for ways to improve the experience of the community members!

some users have resolved it by using cura 3.1 but some also say the latest firmware causes this, so i would suggest to try with 3.1 and if it doesnt work change the firmware

@gr5 the default profile for ABS sets the fan to 5% And Ultimaker ABS can be printed with the heated bed at 80°c normally.

I usually print at 40mm/s I'm guessing your print with the .4mm core right? If you have been grinding filament for some reason it's mostly sure that the feeder is quite dirty inside, maybe it should be cleaned. If you are sure the nozzle is not clogged then it could be that. You can check out this link to open the feeder: https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/64-disassembly-of-the-ultimaker-2-plus-feeder You don't need to completely take it off, just be able to clean the knurled wheel

Hi and welcome! Is it failing when it start printing the infill or is it failing on bottom layers? You might want to check the infill speed (you can display this by clicking on the gear next to the speed settings. I would put it to 50 or 40mm/s, or you can simply reduce your global printing speed (i personnaly like more to change all the speeds)

D'après moi (je ne connais pas la A8) mais il faut quand même préciser les températures de la tête et du lit dans le start.gcode M104 S200 M140 S60 par exemple non?

Hi! PP and adhesion is indeed complicated. That's why it's recommended to use the adhesion sheets (these work pretty well). PP is known to stick to basically nothing so you can try different things but it's most likely it will fail. Tips for adhesion as you probably know: Large brim and pretty close levelling, you may want to change your first layer height to 0.2 or 0.1 for an extra squish. Try blue tape maybe? But the best would be the adhesion sheets (you can buy that directly from your local reseller)

Hey guys did you see the answer @tinkergnome posted? It seems it can be related to the latest firmware. Also, i'm not sure but i have seen similar cases lately and it seemed to me that all the slicing was done on MAC with the 3.2 Cura is it the case for you guys?

Indeed @neotko is correct we basically all are together and have a lot of things going on, so basically approval of new posts is a bit slower than usual. This will be better again for all of you from tomorrow on. Thanks for your patience and understanding!

Salut et bienvenue, Si je comprends bien tu as un soucis qui est causé par ton start.gcode et/ou stop.gcode? Il faudrait peut être vérifier d'ou ça vient? Il y a certainement un groupe facebook (en FR) spécialisé pour l'ANET A8? J'ai trouvé vite fait ceci pour les start.gcode et end.gcode pour l'A8 (j'ai vu dans ton code qu'il n'y a pas de commande pour la chauffe de la tête et du bed https://gist.github.com/knoopx/23c0125160fa9f38f1cbaffa64e88076

15 20 minutes ca me parait beaucoup, tu peux enlever le tube au dessus et pousser du filament à la main par au dessus. Si rien ne sort, tu peux éventuellement faire des colds pulls, mais c'est bizarre et tu devrait pouvoir récupérer un core bb neuf...

Contacte ton revendeur pour un remplacement si le core BB est bouché. C'est étonnant car normalement il n'est testé qu'avec du pla...

Du coup un des moteurs sautait des pas sur une des courroies... C'était bien ça?

I think if you want to do this (first question that comes to my mind is: is it worth the added time?) The way i would choose is to design the part that will be printed in PVA like i would design a dual color model. And assign the BB core to print that part and disable the support generation. So it would basically be some kind of big plate that would be printed in PVA to support the next stage... but really i'm not sure the effort and time it needs to print the pva part is really an improovment compared to printing just one stage? Also regarding UM3 PVA profiles, for me they have always worked quite nicely, it's just a matter of keeping your Pva out of humidity (also the prime tower helps sometimes)

Je pense qu'un bon test serait un simple rectangle creux assez large avec des parois de genre 10mm (pour le modèle). Le modèle devrait être assez haut aussi je pense. Pour le slicing: 3 parois et infill assez important pour rajouter de la contrainte.

Je pense que le reset machine n'est pas nécessaire. Je ferais d'abord un essai avec la 3.1 pour moi (j'utilise la 3.2 depuis la version beta) c'est un bug dans la version mac

Did you see the links below? https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/49911-pla#safety

Info here: https://ultimaker.com/en/products/materials/pla

I know Colorfabb has some information: https://colorfabb.com/materials-data/

Hi and welcome, For this it would be better to directly contact filament producers. You can also find some documents about safety and FDA approval on them

Visiblement il y a d'autres personnes avec le soucis, j'ai répondu à quelqu'un sur le sujet de la beta 3.2 qui a aussi le problème (et sur MAC) une troisième personne (qui a posté le sujet ici plus haut) mais je ne sais pas si sous mac ou pas. En attendant tu peux tester avec la version 3.1 visiblement ce problème n'est pas présent (ou sur windows avec la 3.2)