fbrc8-erin

If you have the UM3 or UM3X, when you hook up a new computer to the printer, it requires you to confirm on the printer screen itself, that you're willing to let that computer be used with the printer. This should prevent anyone who is not physically present with the printer from getting access.

I think the UM2+ is really reliable and easy to use. It's an absolute workhorse. Pretty much the only calibration it needs is for you to level the bed correctly when you switch out nozzles or glass plates. Other than that, it basically should just work.

Line NR errors (Line Not Read) is most often the result of a corrupted file on a USB stick due to unsafe removal from the computer. Reformatting the USB stick usually does the trick in that case. Were all of these error message on 1 file, or multiple files? One printing method? Or multiple printing methods? (i.e. did you try USB, and then try LAN/wifi when USB didn't work?)

Are the 4 screws that hold the printhead together tightened throughly? If any of them are loose you could have difficulty remove the Print Core.

The metal piece goes over in slot 2 and is part of the lifting mechanism on the right hand side. You may want to reach out to your reseller/support for instructions on how to get it back in. In the lump of plastic, that looks like it's not a wire. It's the reddish silicone ring that goes around the bottom part of the Print Core.

I've seen this happen if the feeder doesn't have a strong grip on the filament when it tries to start the "fast forward" part in the second stage of the loading process. I always like to make sure the filament is visible at the bottom of the bowden tube just above the feeder before you start the fast forward part of the process. I've got a video here using the wedgebot @gr5 indicated to by-pass the built in loading process:

Turning off brim and skirt will help.

The nozzle cleaning should be pretty straight forward using the instructions here: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/21619-how-to-unclog-an-ultimaker-nozzle Essentially you want to remove the bowden tube, heat the nozzle, and push filament through by hand. Then you cool down the nozzle enough so that the filament is still soft, but not flowing through, and when you pull it out, you'll have an impression of the inside of the nozzle and you can see if it's clear or not. The cold pull part also pulls excess debris (usually charred filament) out.

The standard fan is pretty quiet these days. That's what I'd recommend.

What model printer are you printing with? Most of the standard fans are pretty quiet these days.

I'm so sorry, Gflow. I linked the wrong video previously. I've gone back and edited my original post now:

Yup. That one sounds like the regular active leveling noise. Sounds just like mine:

You could put a piece of clear tape over the wire to hold it into the groove that's cut out for it. That should do the trick; this way your Y-stop doesn't become damaged. You could also try some sort of sticky tack or glue dots inside the groove to pull it up and in, but I think a piece of clear tape across the hole that's cut out should do the trick.

If you just want belts and sliding blocks and not the whole maintenance kit, those are available here: https://fbrc8.com/collections/ultimaker-3-spare-parts/products/sliding-block-set-um3-extended But the shipping might be a little high if they need to go to Germany. Alternately, your reseller in Germany can probably order belts in on request if they don't carry them.

Nope, no wires there. The yellow and green wires are your side fans. Blue and orange are in the middle of the board are your hot end cooling fan. Here's what it should look like (I have the EXP 1 and EXP 2 wires unplugged here because the cable is too short to leave them plugged in and show off the board this way):

If the recovery image didn't fix it, then that sounds likely. Your reseller should be able to get it taken care of for you.

That looks like it might be a cooling issue; are both of your side fans running? What material is this?

What material are you printing with? Are the side fans running strongly?

Can you confirm that you have Ultimaker 2 Go picked in Cura when you're slicing? If it's set on Ultimaker 2, the center of an Ultimaker 2 bed is out of range on the Ultimaker 2 Go. (If you slice a model for a 2Go and print it on a UM2, it prints in the front left quadrant, so if you reverse that...the center of a UM2 plate doesn't even exist on a UM2Go.)

There are several different boards in the printer; the main board (powers the motors and heaters), the Olimex board (wifi and camera modules, etc connect here), and the Ulticontroller board. Where are you located? Does the printer make any noises at all when you try to power it on? Depending on which (if any) noise it makes, there are a couple of potential causes. This is definitely a case where it's best off to work with your reseller on it.

When you lubricated the Z-screw, did you clean it first? I'm starting to wonder if maybe there's some debris in the threading.

Are you using the standard spool holder or a different one? I've seen a couple cases where third part spool holders were a little large on the interior of the printer and got caught when the bed was going down.

Hi, Gflow, Any time the printhead shafts get popped out of the sliding block halves, it's worth double checking to make sure they're fully seated back and in the right location afterwards. Each of the frame panels has bearings pressed into it during assembly. If you put your finger on each side of the rod on the outside of the printer, the rod shouldn't stick out on either end. Does that make sense, or would a video help? If the rods have play, you have to loosen the pulleys to push the pulleys back up against the wall, so it's worth double checking that they're actually aligned still after you've done that.

Definitely agree on the bracket hitting the Z-shafts. Thanks for sharing my video. I think reseating the blocks should do the trick.

Hi, GorillaBob...that actually probably happened in the opposite order. If the bed thumbscrew was loose enough to fall out, your active leveling wouldn't let you print (if the active leveling was turned on). Most likely after the fan bracket opened or the print came off the bed, the lump of filament and bracket caught on the bed and continued trying to move, and there goes the screw. Is it the plastic connector end of the wires you're trying to get back in, or the end at the white rectangular board in the metal bracket?