neotko

Unhide Ironing speed option and ramp up the speed for it.

You mean just like the photo with the max temp or the graphics style? If it's max temp, is the pt100 not plugged right probably OR most important, you don't have the pins that allow the system to work like this, check the black 2 pins on safety 1 and safety 2 And about the graphics style (you really need to be more specific about the issues you have XD ) you should just upload the latest firmware. And about buying clones, they can give issues, but I had 2 originals and 2 clones, and the clones did work perfectly for a year+ so...

Probably that’s as good as it gets atm in cura yea For surfaces where the area can’t be sanded in one direction alone its hard to get more uniform look. Check this test I did on s3d. I forced the sanding layer so it did go beyond the print area, this way the slicer does a uniformly sanded direction. Ofc is just a test on greentec, I been doing more progress and with 2 pass sanding it looks better

Indeed curved paths are the hardest to get sanding correctly due pth planning. A solution could be that Cura team makes an ironing planner (complex I assume) that forces one direction sanding. I force this on s3d using horizontal expansion for the process but it has downsides, ofc filing by hand the edges is worth for me since I mostly use this to presand the object and make the realword sanding easier faster and with a cleaner look (and specially faster)

Oh yes indeed, the prime sequence is quite horrible imo, for the last weeks I did use a um3 I changed it on S3D to make a purge+move, much safe and less problematic if something went wrong. But on UM3 the prime is controlled by the printer firmware, and editing the json through ssh can get messy if something goes wrong you just brick the machine (like changing wrong one comma). And knowing um way of do stuff if this only affects 1% or less of the users they will never touch it, just like um2 firmware, as soon something is 'good enough' they stop pushing forward.

Put some bed adhesion helper (glue, hairspray, something) on the purge area. Also if you did the load/unload manually of the filament this happens very easily since the firmware is made to work automagically knowing how much to purge is needed or if the head was ourge before or not. But it can just fail if the corner doesn’t stick to the purge. Easy solution = glue/hairspray Ofc before anything, remove the glass and clean it with hotwater and avoid touching the glass with the hands (human grease is the best way to loose bed adhesion) @gr5 has a nice video explaining how to leave a bed glass nice and sticky

By the photo of the youmagine the arrows up & down are to show the gap between. The print area without any arrow goes on top of the bed like on the photo of youmagine (arrow is on both sides so you can use it on both corners of the bed I assume).

80s where a fun time indeed. Specially the hair styles Anyway, now more on a real and productive way, they told me about this issue the first time UM invited me to beta the um3 at their offices. Why this isn't just printed on a paper? Like, IF FAILS, ADJUST THE BOTTOM TENSION. I mean, ofc this issue probably only pops on a 1-2% of the scenarios so isn't worth fixing it. But, if it's an know issue of the autolevel, then... Well, then writing it down on a start manual shouldn't be so incredible complex... Allright, back to work, cheers!

Nobody find funny that a patent autolevel system, needs manual adjustments to even work right? I mean, is quite funny ?

In my experience with many colors every day is that you need atomic pull after a color change to fully remove the previous color, normal purge doesn’t cut it. And if you did all, I would check bowden like they said and most importantly: a) Check the feeder bolt of the extruder (it has a small hole to see a bit), if dirty then clean it. b) Check the actual filament spool. With faberdashery pink I had 3 spools that had particles of black color inside the filament itself. Ofc they did reimburse me and they send me loose filament to change it. Last posibility is that the core has something leaking, very rare and improbable but on my um2+ hotends that’s the source of black particles if the coupler is near its end of life.

I trust @conny_g that they might be just as bad I have the 8 ones, but I will not test them since next week I get the 3rd duet3d board and some hiwin to finish the mod to G3D corexy and finally forget about the headaches of this um2 boards. Freedom there we go!

Nice clearly Cura team doesn’t let down zigzag Indeed will improve the result for that print. Ironing flow to a lower amount than default 10% will yield better finish also specially for last toplayer if you want to keep the concentric style so try a) cut ironing flow to the lowest possible or b) changing to zigzag Ironing style

You think so 2D, you need to think like a slicer for this. Ironing works with abs as abs is easily sanded. Nozzle pushes residual plastic that goes beyond the -0.01 layer that was printed. The difference between doing that on A or B material are a) Can be sanded? b) Does it suffer from too much temperature? (PLA needs high sanding speed to avoid damaging the overhangs, but slow temperature increases the gloss of the finish while fast makes it more matte) c) Can the nozzle beat the surface? Olsson ruby nozzles are specially great for this since it doesn’t suffer from being scratched against almost anything. So for example neosanding Nylon problably is a bad idea (but nylon I don’t know how would behave) The easiest way to know how would a surface behave neosanding it is by the common scratches we have always seen on past Cura releases (they have do a very good on the travel path planning to avoid this on most scenarios if you know what to adjust). So abs? Indeed it can. Also his photos show that a) material was dragged to the center of the print area due spiral style. That’s probably the less useful print style to get sanding by the nozzle since it increases the drag on the nozzle, while zigzag style has more chances of filling the gap holes of the printed layer. This reminds me a thing. Cura sanding does actually extrude a bit. For my latest tests for 2 pass sanding it works much better to not extrude. I suppose Cura team left an option to lower the extrusion rate while ironing, that should remove the issue the user has, but the finish look won’t change much except the blob on the inside of the letters.

Most probably the issue is the concetric skin pattern is messing with the order the ironing is done. Try normal typical non concetric style, it should look better, also for this kind of prints on S3D I use 1 perimeter for the last layer, it makes things cleaner, concentric for that fonts sure will look decent without ironing, but Cura 'redo' the last print on the oposite angle, and that's not compatible with a concentric style, so probably it's doing the ironing mostly on the small parts that are actually infill and making a bit of a mess for the final look

Any info about the named CC 0.6 core?

The issue to do this on cura is that since it goes all the way or nothing (no layer selection) it would need that to use horizontal expansion (process without perimeters and only the sanding effect) to improve. The -0.01 indeed sure helps, but my tests show 0.03 as a safe and a -0.05 looks very amazing but needs one path direction (without the sanding changing the direction like happes normally on any print)

Remember if you are interested on following my mods or tricks to follow on twitter since I don’t check this forum much lately.

Testing the first step for a better neosanding What’s new? Process layer with a 1-2mm horizontal expansion so the effect doesn’t suffer on small areas where a normal sanding would have way too much travel jumps. Changed the Z offset of the Sanding layer to -0.03 / -0.05 to actually ‘dig’ into the printed part and really sand / scratch. This isn’t Ironing but actually it does sand the surface. Extrusion must be removed completely or the nozzle drips when doing the sanding on areas where nothing is printed. I retract 4mm just before moving the Z. Ofc I use directdrive so the length will change for others. First tests at 0.1 nozzle size (for super smooth finish) show great promise. All done ofc in S3D, and the thing that I can’t do on s3d to improve this: - Force a one single pass (without travel hops). I hotfix this by increasing the expansion or making a custom shape of the area to sand. The results on Greentec are incredible. The surface looks almost without any extrusion and saves me a good 5minutes post process for each print. The speed should be pretty fast or overheat occurs. I use 100mm/s Also important point. I use Ruby nozzle. It’s so hard that it doesn’t suffer from scratching/sanding the surface but a brass or common nozzle might need slower speeds with extra fan to avoid extra dripping or damaging the print.

Or the cardboard ? anyhow, UM3 most serious issue is that the OS firmware is quite dumb/silly If any component doesn’t load it freeze. Instead of just sending a msg of ‘hey my small wifi cable isn’t plugged correctly’. Also instead of having a ‘safe mode’ like any basic OS it just freezes. One of the basic features I did criticize of the um3 I had. A basic safemode, output of real error info and specially the lack of info of how to fix your own machine just because for Marketing reasons is better to avoid showing what’s inside or how a user can fix his own machine. One of the great things um2 had was the assembly manual, it gives a reassurance of future-proof instead of a ‘go-pay-the-reseller’ after a Warranty expires.

@smartavionics explica como arreglar eso usando unas opciones aquí

If you want to see how it works the thingiverse has a full stl with the assembly so you can just see how it works

Indeed. There’s something there with a combination of options that makes that. Do you have a profile or gcode that did stutter? I would like to compare to mine and check settings alike

PLA doesn’t need the door. The excessive heat can make the layers don’t cool correctly and what looks like warp could be a pla overheating issue. Basically if it’s too hot it doesn’t stay on the crystal temp. the layer issue does look like active leveling failing. I would do a perfect manual level and try again without the door. Glue cant hurt indeed but it can be very difficult to remove the print without removing the glass. Remember to cool it properly or the glass will damage when removing the print if you use pla and glue stick.

You could try support roofts, with different densities to get a different angle. Maybe...