Torgeir

Hi Folks, Here's a little more about the feeder and the release handle with "hold open" lock. Some pictures: The feeder is here mounted with spacers (as wall thickness of UM2) into a stepper motor. This picture shown with the hand lever set to open locked position. This picture shown with the hand lever set to normal (unlocked) position. Here it is in open locked position where you can insert the filament by hand. Here the hand lever is released and filament can be driven by the stepper motor. Here is the gcode file made with Cura 2.5 end of February 2017 (the latest revision): Print temp 200 deg. C. Bed temp 60 deg. C. Nozzle 0.4mm PLA. Can be printed with all UM2 versions, (but if you have a plus version you do not need this one). Gear_Release.gcode I've also put up a test block, for making 16mm, 8mm and 3mm hole. In addition there is also a threaded hole for 1/4" quick connect adapter to be used for the bowden tube. This one is sliced with Cura 2.5 and same settings as above. UM2E_Dimension_Test_Block.gcode Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Assuming this is a "modern" lo light CCD sensor, those are very sensitive for high light level and may fail if exposed for to long time in hi level light radiation. Just so it is said, but I do not have a S5, -so if this light radiation into the camera should be normal(?), I do not know. But I do not think so. Anyway Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi SP3, Hmm., strange thing, but cannot really think that this hi intensity led (still in view) is good for this camera. As this normally reduce the aperture and contrast that will be lo -with a kind of foggy picture as we see here. Turn off or, cover up this light and use another warm light above the printer (behind camera). Lets see then what's happen? Thanks Torgeir.

Hi bearsfeat, I'll think during the first layers there is not much travel and retractions, so it's possible to see some good printing at such steady condition. However, when things change, as deceleration layer change and traveling etc. When this occurs, -all this hi flow is hard to reduce as the filament parameters is much changed, -as hi temperature reduce the density of the melted filament and this require a number of parameters to be corrected.. Here we will go into the "experimental" mode with our printing and all predictability we want is pretty much reduced. I would think that above 10 mm^3/s is on the high end of the scale, but the limit for UM3 printing your object is something to test for to see. So start with your print, at default speed and temp for 0.8 nozzle. If your object seems to print ok after 5 minute, increase speed until temp drop 1 deg.C then increase temp 2 deg. C. Let it stabilize. If stabilized, increase speed again until drop 1 deg.C. Don't go to fast, make sure that your printer deliver good quality. It is always wise/better to be a notch below max printing speed to make sure that you're working inside the envelop that the printer can deliver good printing. Thanks Torgeir

Hi bearsfeat, Well, 0.8mm nozzle default speed is 25mm/s (50mm/s is for 0.4mm nozzle!) So when starting with this nozzle, make a test print take max (10-15) minutes, during this time you can find the proper speed to use with your printer. So; 25mm/s and 205 deg C would be approx default for a 0.8mm nozzle. Should print ok., with this setting. To test, increase speed "a little by little" and monitor temperature, if temperature drop 1 deg C, increase the temperature 2 degrees. Stable, If not, increase speed gradually more, adjust temperature(as above) and so on, do this as long as print looks ok. You will find the sweet spot at some speed and temperature. The main problem here is ozing and blob due to high temperature, so avoid using to high temperature. Tension is only a problem if printer start grinding the filament. Just take care of this issues and I'm sure you would be ok. Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi SP3, Is not this a direct reflex of the inside light diodes from the stainless steel glass clip? I'll do not think that this camera can handle such a direct light radiation.. You can try to put some withe board "black" to mask out the reflection or, just adjust the clip a bit? Thanks Torgeir.

Hi Folks, Here is some more details about my feeder gear box and arrangement. The pictures is from Fusion 360. Here you can see the attachment for the electrical cable and a carbon rod (1mm) support. This support avoid cable to be bent uneven and create cable rupture during long time printing. It also support prevent conflict between the bowden tube and the electrical cable. This arrangement is also made on the other side. The upper part of this box hold the 32 tooth pulley and the original feeder unit with release handle. In this The lo part in here, is where the feeder stepper motor is installed with a 16 tooth pulley. This upper cover also hold the second bearing (5x10x4)mm, for the 5mm drive shaft that's attached to the knurled (original) feeder wheel driving the filament. Here's the last picture for today, self explaining. - Next will be the release handle and test template, etc. Thanks Torgeir

Hi nitrotech, This is just a flat nut that I collected from an old mic jack.. So i filed it down to fit inside the feeder (~11.4mm). Here's a link to the thread specs: https://www.qualitymill.com/2965619/Product/Dormer-0099285 And here to a link to a "similar" pneumatic strait tube adapter: https://no.rs-online.com/web/p/products/1216221/?tpr=2 Before I found this flat nut. I've tried to print a nut in PLA, but this did not take the pressure.. Well I'll thought that nylon will do the trick, but could not print nylon at this time. Here is a picture of a template and parts made for thread adjustment of this modification. This variant can be used as it is with the spacers, however it's made for a belt gearbox. Thanks Torgeir.

Hi Paul, That's great, congratulation with your first print! Now the fun begin... Way to go! Regards Torgeir

Hi Paul, Yes, I'll think @gr5 have a kit that is based on a 1:2 gear designed by @meduza. This is a good design IMO, but I do not think you can turn the feeder unit at this one, unless it is modified for for this. If this happen you can use it on both sides and with the original feeder unit turned (reversed). Maybe it can be modified to use the release handle I'm using? I'll think this might be a good combination. I'm sure gr5 can give an advice here. 🙂 Thanks Torgeir

Hi Bob, Here is a forum for "Anet A8 & Prusa i3" printers. https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/anet-a8-prusa-i3 Thanks Torgeir

Hi Paul, When I'm looking at your first picture, It looks like the temperature is a little lo. However, if this is PLA, it should normally flow easily and roll upon the clip nicely. As you have had some feed of plastic (PLA) and now there is none, I'll believe this due to some sort of obstruction in the extruder. So no temp problem, people have been trying to rice temperature in order to get flow, but instead burnt all filament stuck inside the heat block. You may also check if the "hot end" cooling fan (the aft one) is working, if not the filament will melt "high" up in the extruder and glue it stuck -just another posibillity. When we finish a print, we need to remove the filament and store it in a sealed bag in order to avoid humidity contamination. Good Luck Just ask in here, here is plenty of skilled people here to help you! Thanks Torgeir

Hi cesern and Paul, Actually, I've made a mistake posting this one in the wrong topics. I did not use much money on my feeder, but some parts and work for drawing etc. Well for this modifiation, I’ve used between 25-25 USD including freighth. Sure, excluding the tools mentioned. You will need: 1 ea shaft diameter 5 mm and length 45 mm. The shaft for the “knurled wheel” filament drive & GT2-32 pulley. 2 Bearing 5mm (shaft) 10mm (outer diameter) 4mm (width) 1 Pulley GT2-32-5-6 ~USD 5 1 Pulley GT2-6-5-6 ~USD 5 (for the feeder stepper motor) 1 Belt 200-GT2 ~USD 6 (pack of 5 ea.) 11 ea SST Screw 3mm x 10mm (2mm hex key) 2 ea SST Screw 3mm x 30mm (2mm hex key) 2 ea SST Screw 3mm x 25mm (2mm hex key) 10 ea SST Washer 3mm (id) 6.6mm(od) 1 Hexagon (Umbraco) key 1.5mm (for the knurled wheel & GT2-16 pulley) 1 Hexagon (Umbraco) key 2.0mm (GT2-32 pulley – standard for all UM screws) Note: SST = Stainless steel (is not magnetic) Pulleye GT2-32-5-6 Belt type 2mm (tooth space) 32 tooth, 5mm shaft and 6 (6.35mm) belt width. Since the screw holes are threaded (3mm fine), it is wise to use threaded tool to clear out any "plastic remains" as this may cause crack in the wall due to the extra pressure this may cause. The belt I’ve used 200 GT2, is the same type of belt that is used from X & Y steppers (200 mm GT2 belt). Doing so, as I’ve only have two types of belt in my printer (as before) and as this will lift the bowden tube approx 3” you can cut the original tube length 2 times. This to address the wear that’s occur at both sides of this tube. Just a little warning here, if you’re using the advanced menu to feed the filament through the bowden tube (705mm), then if the tube is to short -it might go with full speed into the extruder!!! So do not do this.. Now some pictures: Feeder Unit Details 1 Feeder Unit Details 2 Feeder Unit Details 3 Feeder Unit Details 4 A few word about this modification. If you want to do this modification, you can use the old stepper motor. As there is a single stage gear, the turning direction will be reversed, however as you turn around the feeder this does not matter. The only thing to change is the number of step, as we need to double this number. So for a standard UM2, the stepper amount is 282. This modification using a 400 step/rev we'll change the rate by *2 = 564. As the track line (from the knurled wheel) now is changed to inside loop of (most of the time) the bowden tube, the benefit is less drag forces due to less friction. Friction can only be between 0 and 1, but drag can be any number! I will sure add some more in here soon. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Paul, Forgot to say, If you need to adjust the feeder tension pressure, you need to use a hex key, turning counter clock wise increase the pressure. Good luck Torgeir

Hi Paul, Have you ever tried to clean the nozzle? There is a method named atomic pull, but read it carefully. Look at this site: https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=UM+nozzle+cleaning+atomic+metod#kpvalbx=_e2vSXpmBKMbc6ASDu4uQBQ24 Torgeir

Check the indicator on the feeder side, about half scale setting should be ok.. Torgeir

Hi Paul, Just saw this.. Can you see if the knurled wheel is spinning on the back, grinding the filament? Try to help feeding by pushing the filament into the feeder, if this help it might be the coupler. Let's see this. Torgeir

Sorry folks, I've made a mistake as this one should be erased. I've put it into here:

Hi Hexonx, Welcome in here. If you make an object to print, you select the prints-peed say 60 mm/sec, so this is the speed that is 100%! This is ofc assuming single wall printing! Thanks Torgeir

Hi John, You should try burtoogle's latest master version, the stringing problems is much less in this version. Here you'll find it: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s43vqzmi4d2bqe2/AAADdYdSu9iwcKa0Knqgurm4a?dl=0&lst= Also, some of the previous versions of cura may work better. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Mari, I might also say something about printing slow. 🙂 As I'm mostly printing small and very small object, where time is not that of an issue, even if it takes 6 hour.. Here speed is very important and it has to go from slow to very slow sometime, so this is an important issue here. Anyway, using "post process script" is a great tool for improving your 3D printed objects. Thanks Torgeir

Hi, I could not get this out of my head, so I tried this out in Cura (3.6.0 and 4.6.1) and there was some difference. I think this work ok in Cura 3.6.0 (but I've not trying to print..) Anyway, I sliced a GT2-20 pulley and made a speed reduction for layer 20 (single layer). From the gcode file I've found this: Used Cura 3.6.0 and used Post proseccing Script Change AtZ.. speed reduced to 10% for layer 20. ;LAYER:20 ;MESH:GT2_2mm-20T-OD12.22.stl G0 X107.594 Y103.064 Z4.53 M605 S0;stores parameters before changing ;ChangeAtZ V5.1.1: executed at Layer 20 M117 Printing... ch@L 20 M220 S10.000000 . . . ;LAYER:21 ;MESH:GT2_2mm-20T-OD12.22.stl G0 X107.734 Y103.005 Z4.73 ;ChangeAtZ V5.1.1: reset on Layer 21 M606 S0;recalls saved settings Cura 4.6.1 ;ChangeAtZ instances: 1 (This is in the info part in the beginning of this file). No AtZ here in the beginning of line 20, as in Cura 3.6.0! ;LAYER:20 M204 S3000 M205 X20 Y20 But further down, -it is found just at the end of layer 20? M605 S0;stores parameters before changing ;ChangeAtZ V5.1.1: executed at Layer 20 M117 Printing... ch@L 20 M220 S10.000000 G0 F9000 X104.924 Y104.924 ;TIME_ELAPSED:296.302061 ;LAYER:21 ;ChangeAtZ V5.1.1: reset on Layer 21 M606 S0;recalls saved settings G0 F9000 X104.924 Y104.924 ;TIME_ELAPSED:303.686144 ;LAYER:22 To me it looks like Cura 4.6.1 is working in one layer ahead of the one selected, also the start and stop position is changed. But this is for someone else to dig into.. 🙂 Thanks Torgeir

Hi burtoogle, This was a great upgrade, work much better than before! Cura need to adapt more of your ideas. 🙂 Thanks Torgeir

Hi, I'll assume when you select a single layer with a given speed, then it will proceed with this speed.. So I'll guess you need to telling it the new speed to return to. My best guess.. Like this: But I have never used it so... Torgeir

Hi aaerelon, Oh yes., this was quite different for sure, this object is kind of difficult to print as there is no platform/bottom. I'll think someone in here mention that is better to dimension wall thickness in the stc file, as this is better for Cura slicer to recognize. So maybe define wall thickness same as you print, might be worth a try? I've also tried to use Cura 3.6.0 and found this one better, Cura also made one (or more?) version that's traveled along the mid wall. Made my prints nicer for sure. Anyway, whatever path you take, good luck. Regards Torgeir