Smithy

Very strange.... I would understand if it is only not working with the Mac (depending what you are using) because I had problems connection another printer with my Macbook because the USB-C adapter was not working. Another Macbook with normal USB was ok. Maybe the USB port of the printer isn't well connected to the printer board? Or the the port is dirty?

You need an USB connection, so we should look into it, why it is not working. Strange is that you already tried different PCs and different cables. @tinkergnome Do you have more ideas?

Maybe that helps: https://docs.rs-online.com/9a21/0900766b8132f9fd.pdf

Sorry then I am out of more ideas, it seems you have already tried a lot.

Please check if the USB Printing plugin in enabled in your Cura installation:

But that's fine, train your hand a little bit more in that direction. Because then you just have to put your hand on the mouse, read a book in the meantime and wait until your hand has finished all the work 🙂

You are welcome and I am glad I could help 🙂

See my post above you can get to 215 in x and also 215 in y, but it is not possible to have a cube which is 215x215.

Here you have a summary with explanations of the settings I mentioned above: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360013799339-How-to-print-the-maximum-build-volume-in-Ultimaker-Cura

I get the same warning, but that shouldn't matter.

Here a part 210 x 160

With travel avoid distance set to 0 you get the 215mm in x and y. The part is 215mm long.

Another settings is "travel avoid distance" which you can set to 0 to get a little bit more space.

I just tried it, I disabled print core 2, disabled blob, disabled skirt/brim The part is 206mm long and it fits.

Do you need both cores? Have you tried to disable the core 2?

Amazing, all these details - wow! And I am happy that you are back! 🤗

When you don't need the second print core, disable it in Cura, that brings more useable space. Additionally disabling the prime blob, should also make the grey area a little bit smaller. Let me see if I find some more settings....

The UM2+C will not get all features of the S-Line printers, so don't expect too much. But let's see what the future will bring us 🙂

The Ender printer has 4 screws under the build plate and I am sure you have a menu item on the printer where you have an assisted leveling process. Then you usually take a sheet of paper and the thickness of the paper is your bed-nozzle distance. But I don't really know the Ender printer, so I cannot give you better detailed instructions.

Da gibt es nicht wirklich viel Spielraum. Sobald du mit beiden Cores druckst, wird die druckbare Fläche kleiner, da ja beide Düsen im Normalfall die zu bedruckende Fläche noch erreichen müssen und du dann aber auch schon mit der Breite des Druckkopfes und der Seitenwand eingeschränkt bist. Du kannst nur versuchen ob du das Bauteil (je nach Größe) diagonal platzieren kannst. So helfe ich mir manchmal wenn es sich gerade nicht mehr ausgeht. Funktioniert aber natürlich nur bei schmalen Teilen.

I still think your nozzle needs to be closer to the bed. The first layer should be squished more into the bed, then you will get a better first layer. So level your bed closer to the nozzle.

No that is not working, because it needs also the translation in the printer itself to do something when you send the gcode. I would prefer to have the same functionality as the others have, a 3rd option to say, lights on during printing. I am sure (ok I hope) it will come. But I am really impressed of the speed and print quality of the printer - I like it.

There are also some things you can check if it happens again. First check the wires from the sensor board. When you open the front door you see a small board with white and red wires. Check if they are fine, not visible damaged and well connected. Next check the connectors on the back of the print head. Maybe disconnect and connect them again. Another reason could be that one of the side fan wires are damaged, which results in interferences which is bad for the capacity sensor of the auto leveling. Last reason, something else around your printer produces interferences. But let's see, maybe raising the bed was the solution.

The reason for the bad bottom layer is that your bed - nozzle distance is too high. Level your bed again and bring the nozzle closer to the bed. That improves your first layer a lot.

No, at least not as long as the rods don't fall out again 🙂 The rods are just clipped into the sliding block and when the sliding block deforms a little bit due to a higher temperature or something else, it can happen that the rod falls out. And I think it can and will happen again. So contact your reseller and ask for new sliding blocks, they are not expensive and then you have some if it happens again and you need to fix it fast.