Smithy

Great Niklas that you found a solution. As said yes it is not nice, but currently the only way. Them UM2+C is a little bit different compared to the other UM printers. With the UM2+C you cannot have a direct connection between Cura and the printer as it is with UM3, S3, S5. You have to use the digital factory and that's the reason why there is no way to enter an IP address in Cura, because it is not needed. Regarding the LEDs: Unfortunately this is currently not possible. You can only turn the lights on all the time or off. The functionality we know from the other UM printers, that you can say switch on the lights during printing is currently not possible. But I guess and hope it will come with one of the next firmware updates, because it is very useful feature and I don't want to have the lights on all the time. Currently I have turned them off completely. The firmware covers currently only some basics and I am sure more will come.

Yes, but in summary, heavy print head, bigger build volume, it is the reason.

Hallo meisten kommen diese Probleme von den Grafikkarten Treibern bzw. der installierten OpenGL Version. Genaueres kann ich dir aber nicht sagen, da ich kein Windows verwende.

Hallo Mathias und willkommen im Forum. Meines Wissens nach gibt es die Möglichkeit nicht.

Der S3 ist sicher noch in Garantie, daher einfach den Reseller oder iGo3D kontaktieren, das Problem schildern und die schicken dir neue zu. Ich würde da auch nichts experimentieren.

Das hat nichts mit den Cura Settings zu tun, sondern liegt an dem Klemmelement welches den Bowden Schlauch fixiert. Wenn er immer wieder raus kommt, kontaktiere bitte deinen Reseller damit er dir neue schickt. Es kann sein, dass dieses Klemmelement nicht richtig funktioniert.

Damn, I really hoped that a connection is enough to show the MAC address, but it seems the printer shows it only when he has got the DHCP response with an IP address. But depending on your network security it is also possible that the printer gets not connection at all, because the switch blocks everything. The printer is brand new and the firmware not as feature rich as it should, so I really hope with an upcoming firmware release it will be shown. But what can you do in the meantime..... If you have a chance to connect the printer temporarily to a network or router, then do it, just to see the MAC address. Every home router should do the job. Not a nice clean solution, but this works. You could also try to connect the printer directly with an ethernet cable to your PC/notebook. It will not work but maybe the printer thinks it is connected and shows the MAC address in the menu. Another idea is to ask your network admin if he can help. They should see the printer with its MAC address and then they could add it. In any case, please report the issue also to your reseller. They can report it back to Ultimaker that they are aware that something important is missing in the setup process.

Check these treads:

Thats not the reason why your auto leveling fails. The printer heats up your nozzle before leveling so the blob is soft enough and should not disturb the process. To solve the problem, try a diagnostic check in the menu for the leveling sensor and check the message. Try it more than once if the first try is ok. Often the bed itself is too high or too low (often too low) and bring up the bed a few millimeters is often enough to solve the issue. Just turn all 3 screws and then do a manual bed leveling.

Hi Niklas Unfortunately the MAC address is only shown if you are connected to a network. I think this is because the printer has 2 network interfaces, one for Wifi and one for LAN and both have different MAC addresses. You can find the MAC address in the menu Settings (at the bottom) -> Network Configuration -> Show connection info. Do you want to connect the printer to LAN or Wifi? For LAN it will be sufficient to connect the printer with the cable, then the MAC address should be shown there. For Wifi I would have to look at my own, let me know if you want to connect it to the network via Wifi, then I will reset it and try to figure it out.

Der Drucker ist für 2.85mm Filament gebaut. Wenn du einen anderen Filament Durchmesser verwendest, dann wundert es mich nicht, dass du Probleme hast.

Octoprint is just one way to connect a printer to a network. I haven't tried anything else, because I am lazy per definition 🙂 and just took an unused Raspi and put the Octoprint image on it and never looked for other solutions. In combination with the Octoprint plugin in Cura, there is no big difference in my workflow. The biggest difference is that you have to double check that you have removed the previous print from the build plate before you send the next, because there is no confirmation to click before you send the next one.

Personally I have not issues with Octoprint, I use it frequently with my UM2+ and the UM2Go.

The name certainly makes a big difference. I can't remember a single post where somebody grumbled with a UM3 when the S3 was launched that he wouldn't get an upgrade kit. But I generally do not understand the excitement. I think if someone wants to connect his printer to the network, he has done so for a long time with Octoprint or other solutions. So the added value with an upgrade kit would be very small and then the next ones would come and say that a Raspberry with Octoprint only costs a fraction of the upgrade kit.

Ok, I haven't seen something in the preview. Which layer height have you used? Maybe I can reproduce it.

hmmm, Cura says the model is not watertight, but not sure if it is really the case. The small one slices normal, I see no problems in the preview. You can try to use https://service.netfabb.com/login.php to repair the STL, just in case there is very small defect in the file.

In the meantime me and also Ultimaker can reproduce the problem. There is also an open issue on GitHub for that and they are working on it.

Without the STL files it is hard to say anything, so please upload it here.

Oft führen viele Wege nach Rom. Freut mich, dass du eine Lösung gefunden hast und danke für das Feedback. Ich werde das beim nächsten CPE Teil auch einmal ausprobieren.

Hi yes they can clip out for various reasons, often when it gets too warm inside, so be careful if you use an enclosure. Just contact your reseller and they will send you new sidling blocks.

When you save the sliced project, you should get a *.gcode file which you need to load into your printer. But what do you mean you get a gcode toolpath instead of gcode?

Hi Do you wait when you put the filament into the feeder until the filament appears in the Bowden tube until you press the button to move it faster? If you press the button too early the filament will only be transported a few cm before the head and then switches to slowly extrude. It is not a problem if it happens, you can just wait or you can pull on the feeder lever and push the filament manually a little bit. When the extruded filament is thinner than usual it is a sign that the printcore is not clean and needs some hot/cold pulls.

Glad to hear you are back in business!

Nichts, aber beim Start wird das Auto Leveling fehlschlagen, sofern man es beim UM3 nicht abgeschaltet hat. Wahrscheinlich wird man sich die Klappe aber ziemlich beschädigen wenn das Bett hoch fährt.