Carla_Birch

I dont do do my print cores every month and to be honest because i stick to the same filament and the printers are going alot i dont seem to get many blocked print cores. So i normal spend a day when i have some printer down time with a break in orders and give them a quick clean so they are then ready for once orders need to be started to be printed again. Normal monthly clean is oil rods and that, clean the inside the printer out, if i do get any blocked cores when i dont have the down time gap, i swap the cores out till i do, bit like you i have a number of spares so i can just have that down time day and clean them all.

Hi, I only have ultimaker printers, but using one the ender 3 profiles, you should be able to edit the build size in the machine settings for that printer profile. Settings - Printer - Manage Printers - Machine Settings

I see you have swapped printcores between the printers and still get the same problem, i wonder if the fan's in the new model are not as good as the fan's in the older model. I'm guessing you have already tired other spools of filament on the printer and get the same?

You could be printing to hot, without seeing the settings it's hard to say. Plus could be the fan's (Check they are cleaning and working) or cooling settings.

I can see number 1 being handy for people who have easy access to the rear of the machines, not something i personally have to be able to see inside the feeder. Number 3 would be real handy, but i can also see many prints still failing because a lot the time when you get a clogged nozzle its kept on printing for a few layers with little filament coming out, so on resume of the print you could have missed layers below and if you walk away without seeing it you could be faced with a big mess and lots of wasted filament. Number 2, i'm not really sure what you mean. on my printers what are printing almost 24/7 most the time, i have like 5 min downtime for cleaning the printer about every month.

What filament is that you are using btw? Not sure if just camera but it seems like its got gliter of something in it, what can easy block a 0.4 printcore. Note like smithy says the tension set to the middle is fine. Have you tired to do a hot and cold pull to check the nozzle is not blocked? If its blocked you will crush the filament each time you load it as soon it hits the blockage it will crush the filament.

3D Solex do a few diff print cores now. I have a few one them and they work fine and much more easy to replace the nozzle on them than the stock printcores, but you still got to be carful when doing so as can still break the neck on them.

PVA is a fussy filament to get working right, if you don't need to be able to remove support from with inside a print due to not being able to get to it, then i would personally try breakaway for support (going by if its a supported filament for the main filament you using) As for PVA i would personally make sure you have a prime tower turned on under dual extrusion settings and you might also want to up the PVA temps a little if you find it dont seem to be flowing right (can also be due to wet filament, PVA loves to suck water out the air).

I have replaced the nozzle on some of my printcores and even know i know what im doing and been careful i have also been able to break the printcore just by being a little to hard on it. One slip and the neck of the printcore is so fine that it snaps so easy. But one way to look at it is, if the printcores at the stage where you really need a new nozzle than you not losing a working printcore if you do break it, but i would not try and change it if the nozzle in the core is still fine. If you want nozzles you are looking at this: https://www.3djake.uk/micro-swiss/coated-nozzle-for-ultimaker-3?sai=6115

Hi that is the gap on my S5, and I have checked my other also and they both almost 5 mm gap at that point.

Cura as a number of settings when you view "all" settings, one of them is called "Retraction extra Prime amount" and that setting is for helpping deal with what you are seeing and thats filament ooze when doing travel movments. Have not personally used it as any ooze i get does not have any impact on my final print, so i can not really give any base starting setting for that setting.

Hi, Posting your settings is a big help in being able to help. It could be you are printing to hot, or retraction could need editing, Does it have any impact on the final print at all?

I don't own the material station, but have you give just using the S5 without the material station for a print a try? If all prints fine than you can be sure its then the material station, if you are still unable to print then the problem could be something other than the material station. I'm personally someone who likes to remove factors from a problem so you can close in on the real problem faster, so doing the above can half the number of problems it might be.

You always been able to change filament mid print if the spool is getting low. To do this: Press the printer icon on the touch screen. Press the button the filament you want to change. Press the "Change" button. The printer will than Pause the print for you and you can then change the spool as normal, when done the printer will then start to carry on printing. Also you can tune the print settings mid print also via the 3 dots button, where you can also pause the print if needed also.

The only way really is to heat up the plastic around the printcore with a heat gun and be carefull not to burn any wires or anything and as the plastic gets soft you can start to pull some of it away with tweezers or something. Might need you to strip the print head down as much as you can. But you should be able to save it. Then it's a case of once fixed to see if you can find out why the print head flooded in that manner.

No real need for a replacement, you can reprogram the printcore using the printer itself and ssh commands using software like putty on Windows or terminal on Mac. Set printer into developer mode and make sure its linked to your network that the computer is on also. In putty type: ultimaker@1.2.3.4 (1.2.3.4 edit this to match the printers network ip address what can be seen on the printers network display screen if unsure) username/password is: ultimaker/ultimaker (so just ultimaker for both) AA 0.4 sendgcode M151 T0 A8 D7800000000004141sendgcode M151 T0 A16 D20302E3400000000 BB 0.4 sendgcode M151 T1 A8 D7800000000004242 sendgcode M151 T1 A16 D20302E3400000000 AA 0.8 sendgcode M151 T0 A8 D7800000000004141 sendgcode M151 T0 A16 D20302E3800000000 BB 0.8 sendgcode M151 T1 A8 D7800000000004242 sendgcode M151 T1 A16 D20302E3800000000 AA 0.25 sendgcode M151 T0 A8 D7800000000004141 sendgcode M151 T0 A16 D20302E3235000000 BB 0.25 sendgcode M151 T1 A8 D7800000000004242 sendgcode M151 T1 A16 D20302E3235000000 AA 0.4 sendgcode M151 T0 A8 D7800000000004141 sendgcode M151 T0 A16 D20302E3400000000 BB 0.4 sendgcode M151 T1 A8 D7800000000004242 sendgcode M151 T1 A16 D20302E3400000000 AA 0.6 sendgcode M151 T0 A8 D7800000000004141 sendgcode M151 T0 A16 D20302E3600000000 BB 0.6 sendgcode M151 T1 A8 D7800000000004242 sendgcode M151 T1 A16 D20302E3600000000 AA 0.8 sendgcode M151 T0 A8 D7800000000004141 sendgcode M151 T0 A16 D20302E3800000000 BB 0.8 sendgcode M151 T1 A8 D7800000000004242 sendgcode M151 T1 A16 D20302E3800000000 Send one the following codes that match the print core you want to program it to, keep in mind T0 is left slot and T1 is right slot (as facing the printer) So in your case if ts meant to be a AA 0.4 core you need the print core in the left slot and send the codes: sendgcode M151 T0 A8 D7800000000004141sendgcode M151 T0 A16 D20302E3400000000 When done, take the core out and take the printer back out of developer mode and then reload the print core as normal and it should now read it as a AA 0.4. Note no X,Y,Z offset calibrations will be lost or other data from the core.

They will be no damage to the print if you pause a print and restart it, sometimes you might get a thin line on the print where filament as pushed out a little to much on restart. With what you are wanting to do, it might be worth you looking into the Material Station as what you are wanting to do is what that is designed for.

out the box Cura hides alot of settings, you can pick to view all settings by clicking on the menu icon next to the settings search box, you can also type in "Minimum support area" in the settings search box also to fine it and it will be in the support part of the settings.

e-Sun PLA is normally PLA+ filament what means you need to print at a higher temp than normal PLA. So up the printing temp up to say 215c has a starting base temp.

Hi, I had this problem before on one of my S5's and when the ben lowered i would hear it make like a knocking sound i had never heard before (it started to make the same sound when it was doing auto leveling at the start also). It turned out that the z limit switch at the bottom of the z was to low and the print bed was hitting bottom before the limit switch fully what meant it was not getting the same z=0 each time. So i lossen the limit switch off and made sure it was as high as it could go and then tighten it back up, my guess is i might have knocked it when cleaning the printer or something.

Yep it does and it's a print saver for sure, a few times i have run out of filament or filament as snapped and it's saved me from a failed print that had been going for days.

I always find it best to find the route of a problem, so having to abort a print due to a failed print or anything error to me mean finding out why you had a fail/error and first fixing that. To me you should hardly never need to abort a started print on the S printers unless you having a failed print.

If the bowdon tube is coming out the feeder itself, then the coupling collet itself might be damaged (most likely the teeth inside that grip the bowdon tube) Without having a spare collet or being able to see any damage next to others, you could try swapping it with another on the printer and then if the bowdon starts to come free at the place you swapped the collet with now then that would make it highly likely its the collet. It's also worth maybe trying another spool of filament, incase you just got a bad spool of PLA. I see you using the cura settings for visual, did you also make sure it was for the tough pla profile and not normal PLA?

First off its worth trying to cut off around 4-5mm of the bowden tube on the end where it comes out because they can wear so the collet does not grip right if you remove the bowden alot of cleaning the print cores for EG. I would also check the collet itself as the teeth can sometimes be worn or damaged, so a new collet could be needed, some people also print a little thicker clip that goes under he collet to make it grip the bowden tigher.

You can replace the nozzle itself in the printcore, but it does come with the risk of breaking the printcore if you are not careful. https://www.3djake.uk/micro-swiss/coated-nozzle-for-ultimaker-3?sai=6115