Carla_Birch

They don't seem to sell one thats the same size (260 x 354) but you could buy one that is a bit bigger and cut it down to size, would be easy to stick on the build plate or even the glass and then just cut around the edge with a shape craft knife (cutting away from self as prints i dont think would stick to blood well). Never personally used them myself because i like the smooth underside that glass gives.

Ultimaker have adhesion sheet's for the S5 that stick onto the glass, so using other sheets and that should not be a problem. I know some have swapped to magnetic build plates for the S5 that also have textured sheets on them. Buildtak make a magnetic system for the S5 that comes with PEI sheets: https://www.buildtak.eu/product/buildtak-flexplate-system/

You want a heat gun or something where you can control the heat, to warm up the plastic partly melt it again so you can then pull it off with something. Just being carful of any wires and that. I would say it's likely a print failed also what can make parts get stuck to the nozzle and drag around the the printer when forces filament back up under the nozzle cover.

It works for me, but from time to time it does stop working and down the above so i have to close Cura and reopen it to get it working again. I'm on Big Sur 11.1

With the range of problems you seem to be facing its hard to say what might be up as we can not see the printer to see just whats going on and at what stages, with it being new i would personally be looking at contacting your reseller who will be able to guide you into hopefully fixing the problems, if not they be able to have it back from you to look at and fix/replace.

I don't have the material station for my S5's but is the idea of it that if your mid print and a spool runs out of filament it auto loads another spool of the same type of filament from another bay?

Hi, What you are seeing with the bed being pressed into the nozzle and the left side of the build plate still moving up abit is the normal action for the active leveling. It does one print core, then swaps to the other print core and does the same action. it will then home and do the point leveling of the bed. So it's totally normal what you are seeing. Have a Marry Xmas. Carla.

Yep, I once give amazon own filament a try because at the time due to covid it was the only thing i could get and i have never had blocked print cores till i used that filament, even after full cleaning of the printcore it would still block the core, swapping to other filament and no more blocks again.

You can set up to be cloud based now with the Digitial Factory, so you can check in on printers and manage them from any network. I personally check in via the web on my printers cameras when im at work to check they all printing fine. This link will give you more info on how to setup and control: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/sections/360003557920-Ultimaker-Digital-Factory

I just rebooted my S3 and my boot up screen is normal, that line effect you have showed kinda looks like the ribbon to the LED screen might not be fully plugged in right so is showing interference from time to time. So you might want to have it checked out to make sure its all plugged in right. If its new i would contact the reseller about it, who you could send it back to, or they might even tell you the steps how to do it yourself if you feel able to, just becareful if you do it yourself.

Could you please post a photo of the chips? I have never heard or seen a problem with the metal clips chipping the glass. I have 3 printers that run almost none stop and i have only chipped one bit of glass and that was from some filament i tired sticking to much. As for the replacement glass, It's the same glass that the Ultimaker 2/3 use for the S3. So your local reseller will stock it and if its not listed on there sites, just send them a email and most will set up a order for you.

Hi, If your printhead is not going to the right place to switch the print core's, its best to run the Lift switch calibration from your printers menu. https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011474120-Lift-switch-calibration

Hi, Do you have PLA loaded into both number 1 and 2 print cores at the same time when you try the XY Calibration, or you using a mix of PLA & for eg PVA? Also what print core types are you using, eg AA or BB. Lastely have you checked the tension setting on the number 2 feeder, the little marker should be in the center placement.

Hi, Your images don't load so i'm not sure what you was trying to show in them. But why the max build volume is 215 x 215 x 200mm, a few settings will affect the max size of a part you can print. Build Plate adhesion settings like skirt, raft, brim will all lower the max build size because they have to be printed around the outside of your model, so why your model is 205.9mm in size one way by the time you account for say a brim you could be over the max build volume. You can set build plate adesion type to "none" what will give you more printable space, I also think some other settings can affect the overall build size but i can not recall just what ones they are, maybe @gr5 or @Smithy know just what settings can adjust the build volume more than just the build plate adhesion settings. Also in Cura you will spot grey bars around the build plate, this is the bars that keep a safty margin for being able to print stuff like brims around a model, so when you edit the build plate adhesion settings you will see them grey bars get smaller.

Have you rechecked the level of the print bed? It looks like the filament as not been pushed down to the print bed and as then lifted up. Sometimes with printers without auto level systems you can knock the print bed level out when removing a print, so that would be a good place to start, but i see it looks like you have a leveling system on your ender looking at the background.

I personally have all the lights off on mine, they are in a front room that over looks open land so if they are on they light up the room for everyone to see walking along the foot paths. Plus i have little need for them to be on. But it would be nice if you could temp turn them on when viewing the camera, because i'll sometimes check in on a print when the rooms dark and with the lights off you can not see anything.

Your top layer paths should really overlap into each other, so you got a soild layer, so something needs to be tweaked

It could be a few things, whats your print speed btw? It could be your over all print speed is to much, but i think you have another problem looking at the top layer of the base i can see that the paths are not all joined to each other and you got gaps between them. This could be filament size settings, line width settings and filament flow. If you go to file and save project you be able to upload your 3MF file to the post and this will let people see your full settings.

What filament types are you using? If for EG you are using PVA and the printer as been left for 6 weeks with the PVA spool on it, you will for sure need to dry out the PVA because it will have become wet and that would also make problems with the flow sensor due to the PVA being wet and not flowing right. When you get the error, is the number 2 print core in the down or up placement, this will help limit the sensor error to just one print core side, if the error always happens with the number 2 print core nozzle being in the same placement.

More big cosplay prop swords, this ones from Final Fantasy XIV for a friend.

What profiles did you use in Cura to print the items with on the S5 and in what way did they fail? 3 times don't sound like many try's if you have never taken the time to dail all the settings in right to be true.

1) The PolyBox looks great but it seems to only offer passive de-humidification. Is there perhaps a model that is active drying yet still affordable? eSun make one, for single spools but to be true it was not that great, how the lid shuts its not very air tight, so i guess you could mod an Polybox to place a heat pad in the bottom of it or something. But my PolyBox to be true kept my PVA good for weeks, then i would dry it over night. But my room is not very humid. 2) How well has your machine dealt with flexible filament? Lets say the UM TPU 95A. I know a lot of people swear by only using direct drive extruders with flexible materials. However, how well do these work? Not had any problems, used both flexible PLA and TPU 3) Is there a power failure mode? Living in the PNW trees fall on power lines often and the power goes out, or might just flicker with the wind, etc. Anyway to printer can sense this then start again once back online? It's got no power outage restart and to be true i have had printers with it and it don't work, if you powers out for any type of time the build plate will cool down and the print will become loose and all types of problems then. It's better to link the printer up to a UPS Backup so atlest you can pause the print but keep the build plate warm, also most you and link to a computer and it will tell you just how much power you using so if you selling prints you can factor that cost in.

Far as i know you can not do that, but it would be could if you could.

Yes, you can pick to have the support supports as PLA and the floor and roofs of the support in PVA, so only the support parts that make contact with a print is PVA what saves a lot of PVA use and then also cost. But keep in mind you need to be able to get in to remove the PLA parts of the supports, so thats something that you need to think about each print.

1) How realistic is the uptime of this printer? Lets talk specifically PLA & PVA. Both from Ultimaker. Does it really actually print flawlessly and very reliably? Or, is there actually still a lot of tinkering and problem prone processes that need to be navigated? For instance here is an article where a test reviewer encountered problems with a false-positive "out of filament warning" every-time they printed with PVA. Apartfrom cleaning the printer out from time to time, and doing the normal oil of rods and stuff i have had like 99% up time in the past two/three years and my printers run almost 24/7. PVA can be tricky so its best to get a dry box to keep it dry why printing, polybox is good for this, also dry it out before printing if its not been used for a bit of time. Personally i use breakaway now days because it gives the same underside for overhangs and more supports are in places i can access to remove more easy. 2) How reliable is the remote access? Always up or it's kind of a hassle with spotty connections and you don't really use it 6 months in? When at work i'll check the progess of prints to make sure they all going fine, never had a problem and thats with using 4g on a phone to access it. 3) Did your printer arrive ready to print or did you have issues with it being damaged or out of alignment? All 3 my printers arrive ready to print aside from the normal loading print cores and filament, they come in boxes designed for the trasport of the printer (they come that well packed that it gives my a good amount of free packing for orders i print) 4) What has been the biggest problem with your printer so far? Have you been able to fix it? Not really had any problems, apart from the normal user error with settings and that. 5) Did you get the extended warranty? Was it helpful or worth it? I trusted the machine to work and last and thats why i paid more for a printer over other brands, because i like to have a machine just work and not pay less and find self having to spend time to get a machine to work. 6) Do you update to the latest firmware or wait for a while because this process has lots of errors that make it worse? I personally update when its out, you can roll back firmware so its not really a problem, plus the more people use a firmware the faster any bugs get found and fixed. 7) After owning one for a few months would you buy another? Do you already have multiple? Do you wish you would have bought another model or brand? I got a s5 after owning a few flashforge printers as i need something bigger and could run 24/7 for days on end, just under a year later i got a 2nd s5 and then this year i got the s3 also. 8] How often do nozzles get clogged? What happens when a print core is clogged? Do you have to buy a new one? Can you fix the existing one? Use good filament and keep filament and the printers in a clean area and you be fine, only time i have had a clogged print core was when i tired a cheap amazon basics spool as it was the only thing i could get at the time due to covid. Easy to fix with some ultimaker cleaning filament and following the hot and cold pulls on the printer menus, something you should do from time to time alway to keep the cores clean.