Carla_Birch

Thats underextrusion yes, does the same filament print fine with the same settings if you use another AA core? If so i would say that the AA core might need to run a clean on it a few times as it could be its got something really burnt and stuck to the inside, do you use the cleaning filament or pla? i find the ultimaker cleaning filament to be much better at giving a deep clean. It's also a good idea to make sure the outside of the nozzle is clean also.

If you really wanted to go back to PEI btw, buildtak make it for the S5 with there flexplate system: https://www.buildtak.eu/product/buildtak-flexplate-system/

When using a glue stick, it's best to make like a grid layout with the glue stick and then get a damp cloth and rub it over the spread the glue out so its a nice thin coating. They don't use the damp cloth in that to spread it because they joined all the glue lines up. Personally i use sprays like 3DLac in my printers because its just more easy and i feel works better also.

I don’t use it with the palette I got it mostly because 1.75mm have a bigger range of filament and also because I had a number of spool left from a old printer. So it was mostly to give me a wider range of filaments. But it was very easy to change to and from 2.85 and 1.75 and back again.

What layer heights are you printing at and what temps? This is my break away settings for 0.15mm layers on my S3 Even know the ABS is printing fine, i would still clean out the nozzle if you have not done so as some filaments are more sticky then others.

Hi, I know this might sound silly, but did you follow the steps on the following page about the error you got? https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011706119-ER61-Material-Station-failed-to-unload-material I don't personally have the material station on my S5's but it might be handy to point out at what area you are trying to remove the bowden tube at, just so it's a bit more clear for others who do have the material station to be able to better help, as i'm persoanlly unsure if you are trying to remove it from the print head,feeder or from somewhere inside the material station itself.

Hi, I use breakaway filament a lot and i find after so many prints that you need to clean out the print core and it starts to extrude right again. So i'm guessing that bits burn and get stuck inside the printcore nozzle that blocks the flow of filament. So go to "settings" on your printer and pick "maintenance" - "Print Head" - "Print core cleaning" and then follow the on screen steps to clean the print core you print the Breakaway from.

It was something that was told to me by a company that made woodfill filament, have never really used that much of it and plus when i have, i have used a CC 0.6 core so don't know how much more if any is it over just PLA. But it's defo better to use a 0.6

I have the 1.75 conversion kit and have used it from time to time on my S3, its easy to install on the printer but keep in mind in doing so you need to turn off the filament flow sensor or it will be thinking its run out of filament all the time so keep in mind you will lose that feature of the printer. As for software side of it, in Cura i edited the printer settings for the print core to say it's using a 1.75 and to be extra sure i added a 1.75 material profile also. Note when you edit the extruder settings that cura will when display the material profiles for filaments design for 1.75 printers.

A few things i see wrong when it comes to printing woodfill. First the nozzle size will likely mean you get a blocked nozzle, most woodfill's need a 0.5 or bigger so like above the CC 0.6 core is likely best, not to just help not get a blocked nozzle but woodfill can be high wear also. Next is your settings, the print speed for woodfill's need to be slower, more around the 30 mm/sec range and i would also say the temp is way to low also and i would start off at around 195c. Overall it can be tricky to print as if you go to slow/hot you can burn the filament inside the nozzle and block it also, so you really have to dial some brands of woodfill in real good.

The whole Simplify3D thing is a big mess, i just checked back on there site and its still the same and that's no word on version 5. Keeping in mind they first talked (well said it was being made) in like Feb 2019 and said it would be out by the end of 2019 and anyone within there 12 months of buying version 4 would get it free and anyone outside that could upgrade for a small fee (that price was never told). Then in 2020 after many removed posts asking about it they said its being worked on and be out that year, fast forward to 2021 and still no update other then "its being worked on". They have even taken to turning comments off on there twitter feed (they started posting about version 4 features) and that now so people can not even comment and that is one the main problems, they tell people to invest in version 4 so they will get version 5 free inside the 12 month and then go silent and then censor the community so it looks like everything is rosey.

Have you placed anything new in the area of the printer lately thats electronic? A lot the time the auto leveling failing in that manner is from interference (even static from your own body can sometimes make it fail) Outside of that i have found sometimes just unplugging the wire to the sensor in the back of the printhead and plugging it back in can help and even something as silly as just to open and close the front printcore door.

Is many settings that play a part in the print speed, so no one can really say how fast you can print, its more about how much do you want to push the settings to trade quality vs speed, plus machine wear. For a block, does it need to support weight or have weight? If not you can greatly up the print speed with the infiill setting, mostly the "Gradual Infill Steps" what prints you can print with like 5% infill and it will step up to like 20% infill a few mm before any roofs in the design so the overhang still gets the supported needed. Then you got normal settings like number of shells & layer heights what you could push up to 0.3mm if you wanted, or make use of the "Use adaptive layers" setting. If even a setting called "infill travel optimization" that can speed up prints. Just keep in mind the faster you push filament out of the print core, the core needs to be able to keep up with melting the plastic so higher temps are needed. If you going be printing items like this a lot and if speed is more of a factor than quality, you might want to look into getting a 0.8 AA core.

I have never had the problem where it seems down to the temp of the printer, normally its due to other devices in the area of the printer making interference for the sensor. Check the wires inside the print head from the sensor board are all fine and that it's plugged into the back of the print head fine (unplug it and plug it back in again). The sensor is the whiteboard you see when you drop down the print head front fan to access the print cores and you will see 2 metal pins in the center of it, check they are all fine and not lose. If the problem remains and all the wires seem fine, then it's likely best to contact your local reseller who should be able to help.

Maybe @fbrc8-erin as come across this problem before that you are having and she might know of some things to try.

I would say so yes, because it resets all settings, so better to do them again to be safe.

I would personally try a factory set on the printer. To do this go to the printers menu and pick settings - settings - and reset both "reset all printer settings" & "reset digital factory". If that don't work then maybe (If its able to be done) reinstalling the firmware might do the trick, hopefully someone here knows if this can be done and how to. But with luck doing the resets above will sort it.

Have you done a factory reset on the printer? I know you said you restarted, but not sure if you meant a power cycle or a full factory reset.

V5 was meant to be out over a year ago and they have yet to even say what new features it will have or anything and have a thing of removing posts when people ask about whats going on. They have given about two updates in the past few year that just say they are working on it. So for most people they view it as dead as they can not even tell people whats going on and hint at what they can look forward to.

I use a mix of PLA and Breakaway Top/bottom interface layers as my supports as it greatly cuts down on cost and usage of Breakaway and to help support the Breakway top layer i have support infill set to 50% but have "gradual support infill steps" set to "2", this means i don't have much PLA support % till the final 1mm where it steps to make a 50% infill base for the Breakway to print onto, what helps greatly. The setting "Support Horizontal Expansion" can help with PVA also and that's why when you use just PVA that setting is set to 2 i think it is.

Nope, better to just swear lots and go old school 😉

It's on the printers menu: Settings - Maintenance - Print Head - Print Core Cleaning, then follow what it says on the screen 🙂 I always clean mine from time to time because dirt and burnt filament gets stuck on the inside from time to time, when i used PVA i would personally dry the filament first before using it, i would still do this even if i had the material station, as its my understand it does not dry filament out thats already wet, it just helps to keep it from getting wet and it has to be on 24/7.

PVA is a tricky filament to get printing, it really can take in water fast. So even a brand new spool might not be as dry as you think, so it's best to always dry it out first and then print it from a dry box, something like the polybox. You can dry the PVA folllowing this guide: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012057799-How-to-dry-Ultimaker-PVA Or better yet get a Food Dehydrator, so you can be drying filament out why still being able to print with your printer. It's also worth cleaning the BB core out just incase you got a part blockage of the print core.

All sounds normal, i found after so long a small bit of the magnalube that ome with the printer on the moving parts of the lift switch along with doing a recalibrate of it really helps to remove that click sound.

I think moving the print head by hand in that manner would make the print head move, the big question is does normal use of the printer printing make the printhead move and give bad prints? I think printing would give far less movment forces on the printhead so it would not be a problem, mine's printing right now so i can not test, but i seem to recall both my S5's and S3 have a small movement if moved by hand but all 3 print totally fine.