GregValiant

This is a topic of a bug report here > GitHub. It appears there might be a solution to it discussed there.

FieldOfView is @ahoeben on this forum and is the implementer/expediter/part-author(?) of the ArcWelder. He will have a better take on the Magic involved. To use ArcWelder, the firmware of the printer must support G2 (CW) and G3 (CCW) commands or it won't understand them. In regards to the G2/G3 commands within Marlin firmware there is a setting for "MINIMUM_ARC_SEGMENT_LENGTH" and the default is 1mm and that would be the "Movement Resolution". That would compare to the "Maximum Resolution" setting in Cura. I think that pipe organ looking print would benefit from either ArcWelder or a higher Max Resolution setting. Regarding Max Resolution you want the lowest setting that allows your printer to move smoothly without stuttering. Once you have it where you like it then you can leave it alone. Stick the glass plate and model in the freezer for 15 minutes. I pop the prints off using the putty knife that came with my printer, and a tack hammer (A LFH as opposed to a Harley Tool which is a BFH).

I have a good rant on single wall "calibration" cubes around here someplace. The bottom line is that if you calibrate for a single wall model you will be able to print perfect single wall models. On all other models the flow will be wrong. How many actual single wall models do you print? Calibrate your E-steps. Scale a calibration cube to 100 x 100 x 1mm tall and print it. The skins are the best indicator for flow and let your own eyeballs see what's going on. You can tweak the flow using the LCD as it prints. It will be darn close to correct at 100% flow. I calibrated my Ender for PLA and I have found that PETG is better at 105%. (BTW I picked up a microscope at a garage sale. It's really good for inspecting prints but a magnifying glass ain't bad.) Regarding cooling. As you've no doubt found, PETG is prone to warping. Certain shapes are worse than others. If you have a section that is long, narrow, and fairly tall then you know it's going to lift. I often design elephant ears into my prints to help hold them down and I always use a fair coating of hair spray as an adhesion promoter because I've found it's a must for PETG on the glass bed. There is a plugin in the Cura MarketPlace called "Tab Anti-Warping" that you can use on corners of your print to help keep them from lifting. The bed is hot and so there are often problems with curling near the bed. Once you get up higher you can start to use some fan. At what layer and how much fan depends on your own system. I designed a single 5015 system for my Ender and it's pretty good so about 40% works well for PETG. I also wrote myself a post processor to add cooling profiles to gcodes. I check the preview in Cura and then build a profile that turns the fan on and off at specific layer heights. That works quite well but it wouldn't work for just the bow of the Benchy. This print is a shark fin in PETG. It's long, narrow, and tall. Even with the tabs it pulled their middle area up almost a millimeter. (It's paused here as to slide a 4mm x 225mm steel rod down a hole on the inside to keep it from warping. I mounted these on the roof of our SUV so we could find it in parking lots. The sun is tough in Florida.) Here you can see how hard it was pulling. I used a simple cooling profile on this as only the tip at the top really needed it. The cooling profile thing is part of this modestly named app - Greg's SD Print Tool which you only get if you throw away those single wall calibration cubes. I went into another rant and almost forgot one of your questions. When Cura does a slice there can be line segments in the range of microns. Each of those line segments takes a line of gcode to print it. That's the resolution we're talking about rather than the overall resolution of the model (which is a function of the STL, 3mf, OBJ, etc. file). So the Maximum Resolution needs to be tuned for your printer so it can run smoothly around circles and curves while keeping up with all the calculations it needs to make. The longer a line is the more time the printer/planner has to calculate the next move. At some point we need to remember that we're talking about molten plastic here so whether an extrusion is .00001mm long or .1mm long are you going to notice a difference? You will if it stutters and leaves blobs while it's trying to process all those .00001 long lines.

Look at the Mesh Fixes section of settings and find the Maximum Resolution. The default for most Creality printers is 0.4. What is your setting? A higher number will have the effect of lowering the print resolution by combining short line segments into longer ones. If Cura chops a circle into a bazillion extremely short line segments then the printer might have to pause for a couple of micro-seconds and that can cause a little blob each time the nozzle hesitates. With a higher maximum resolution it takes less lines of gcode to describe the same geometry and so the printer doesn't get bogged down waiting for the next gcode line to get translated. The warping on the bow near the build plate is probably a cooling issue. There is a slight overhang there and so a feather edge gets created for a few layers. It curls up a bit and then the nozzle knocks it back down. The result is often a defect. About all you can do is make sure the layer start and stop point and the Z seam are someplace other than the front of the boat. The port or starboard corners of the transom would be better choices (I'm being nautical). Your flow at 80% would seem to indicate that your E steps aren't calibrated correctly. PETG or not, having to force a 20% under-extrusion like that isn't really where you want to be. I print a lot of PETG and at 105% flow it looks much like PLA at 100% when I put a sample of each side-by-side under the microscope.

I printed a hole chart once. I was looking at the effect of "Hole Horizontal Expansion" and one of the side issues that because apparent was that vertical holes under about 1.2mm diameter don't want to print with a .4 nozzle. The molten plastic gets dragged into the center of the hole before it can cool and become solid. On a horizontal round hole you were too close to being only 1 layer thick (depending on where the Cura slice went through) and so I can see where getting rid of the radius would help. "I changed the air vents to squares." Good job figuring that out. Ya gotta love a good workaround.

It depends on when someone gets around to looking at the forum. I didn't have any trouble slicing the model (Ender 3 Pro) but parts of it won't print. The details are too fine OR pieces just aren't attached too other parts and will fail. The front door is a 4 panel but the panels themselves won't connect to the stiles and rails. You can just make out the vertical gap on the right window frame as well. The roof is so thin that it will only print as separate bridges extending the long way across. Those will fail as well. On the left is the model after repair in MS 3D Builder and on the right is the model as you posted it. You can see that there are a lot of errors in your model. Scaling the repaired model up to 200% helped with the gaps like in the door. You can't really print a small scale "to scale" architectural model. Certain things (like the front door and windows) need to be designed with the FDM process in mind. That means that a glass window can't have it's thickness to scale but rather at maybe quadruple thickness so it will print. The four panel front door might need to be a caricature of a 4 panel door, not the exact door.

Install an AnyCubic printer that is close to yours. You can change the build plate size in the Machine Settings. An important setting is the StartUp Gcode. It looks like your printer has an Auto-Level gizmo. You will need to add a command to your startup gcode to get the leveling routine to run. That command is often G29 but it might be M420. Either way there could be parameters that are necessary. Check over on Reddit and see if you can get some guidance there. A square is a rectangle with equal sides. A circle is an ellipse with equal major and minor diameters.

All those islands make it a tough part. Setting the Z seam to the center of the part (midpoint of the bed in this case) and enabling Z Seam Relative and then setting the layer start and end points to the same position helps. There are 4 travel moves across the center and with retraction turned off there will be strings. There will be strings between all the islands as well. Here is my effort. GV_sello4.3mf

The accuracy of the print time is often dependent on the Accel settings and to a lesser degree the Jerk settings. I don't know S3D but you can get the Cura times to better reflect reality by being honest with Cura regarding the settings. You can tell Cura to use an Accel of 3000mm/sec² but within the printer (unless you changed it) Creality usually has a 500mm/sec² limit. So the Cura estimate can be based on faulty input. That's a big hit right there. After slicing - just above the "Save to Disc" button is a circle with an "!" in it. Hover the mouse over it and you will get a synopsis of where the time is spent. Another thing that can have an effect on small features is "Minimum Layer Time". The layer needs time to cool before the next one goes down and so Cura will drop the print speed to maintain the minimum time. Cura 5.1 has a new setting called "Flow Equalization Ratio" that is there to deal with the variable line width. It smooths out the speed between a line that goes down at your maximum line width versus a line that might go down at minimum line width. You can set it to "0" to take it out of play. Prints can be a tad better using it at higher numbers. Overall I've found that for my Ender 3 Pro Cura over-estimates by around 10%. I did kick up the Accel and Jerk limits using M201 (accel) and M205 (Jerk). There was one poster here who was using 7mm of retract but his E speed was only 1mm/sec. That's 14 seconds for each retract and prime. That was really bad.

Yes, select a CR-10. After installing the printer you can make changes to the bed size or whatever. Cura doesn't care about the WIFI part and all CR-10s are functionally pretty much the same. You can go to Manage Printers / Machine Settings and see the parameters and make changes there. As for the tree supports, you are going to have to play with them. There are 70 or 75 settings in the Support section. Typical Z gap on top of supports is 1 layer height. If you have supports that rest on the model then the floor height can be 2 layer heights. Don't expect a perfect finish. Tree supports grow differently but often the deciding factor is the Z gap and the density of the support interface.

It's the weekend. Maybe @ahoeben has a moment? I'm running Win10 and I've not had any issues like that.

Just to stick my nose in...do the UM printers support M32 and G4? If they do then you can print a main file and have it call secondary files. The G4 would be in there someplace in between to allow the bed to cool. The code below uses the DOS 8.3 filenames that I would use on my printer. You would print a file something like this "Caller.gcode" file which would call "Real Print.gcode" and "BullDozer.gcode". StartUp Gcode runs and then: M32 P !REALPR~1.GCO# M140 S0 G4 S300 M32 P !BULLDO~1.GCO# M190 S60 M32 P !REALPR~1.GCO# M140 S0 G4 S300 M32 P !BULLDO~1.GCO# M190 S60 M32 P !REALPR~1.GCO# M140 S0 G4 S300 M32 P !BULLDO~1.GCO# Ending Gcode runs There would be some other hand coding involved but it's doable IF the gcode commands are supported. You might need a door opener though.

"Angled faces are not sliced properly. There are gaps between layers. Wider gaps as more close to horizontal." That's the nature of FDM printing. The closer you get to horizontal the farther apart the "steps" between layers get. The formula is TAN(90-Angle) * Layer Height = Step Distance. When the step distance gets farther apart than your line width the model starts to fall apart into strings as the steps don't get glued together. It happens on that model because the surfaces have no thickness. On a regular model there would be material below to fill in the gaps. It would still need support though. If you have a surface or overhanging feature that just happened to be 26.565° from horizontal and your layer height is 0.2mm then the formula says: TAN(63.435) * 0.2 = 0.4. If your line width happened to be 0.4 then you need support because the outside wall extrusions no longer touch the one below. Your surfaces are infinitely thin. If Cura doesn't slice right along the plane of the horizontal surface it could be missed and you get what you see. If you play with the "Initial Layer Height" you may find a number that allows the horizontal surface to be sliced. It still won't print as the whole thing is over air and so it would need support.

The 4.x versions of Cura have a plugin in the marketplace for Flashforge printers. I really don't know anything about it but I followed the link for "Ronoaldo Consulting" to THIS GITHUB PAGE. There is also THIS PAGE. When Cura was moved from the Qt5 controls and dialogs to Qt6 most of the marketplace plugins needed to reworked. That may be why it isn't available yet in the 5.x versions of Cura. It's something you can look into though.

It's tough to troubleshoot without being there to see what is happening. I try to explain what I think is going on so the user has a better chance of figuring out the problem. Those feet have very little surface area to attach to the build plate. A brim might be a better choice. You can set the brim distance so the brim isn't attached to the model so well. Start with 0.1 brim distance. I don't recall if you are using any adhesion promoter. A light dusting of Extra Hold Hair Spray can help. I use Aqua-Net. Another thing that can happen is the first layer is too tall because the leveling is off by a bit. In order to get enough squish and glue the filament down you can try setting "Initial Layer Flow" to 105% or even 110%. It's a crutch but it can be a very effective crutch. When you are troubleshooting you don't have to print the whole model. You can tell right away if it isn't what you wanted or expected. Just abort the print, make limited changes within Cura, and try again. As you have noticed, a lot of changes at once and you can't tell what helped and what hurt. Looking back at your very first image I can see that the feet hit the bottom and there is a sharp corner on the inside. If that was a radius or a chamfer they wouldn't be so prone to breaking off. I don't know if your design will allow that though.

You can't copy and paste a parametric model. If Fusion has an "Explode" command you can explode a parametric model and it will become a 3d Solid. You might be able to copy and paste a 3D solid. What you should be a able to do in an assembly file is to copy a part, move the copy off to the side. Set your USC to World and make sure the entire copy is within the +X +Y +Z octant of the workspace. Then explode the parametric model and export it from the drawing as an STL file. There may be options you can set for the export. You want it set it to a high resolution. So long as any of your models is less than 230 x 230 x 250 it will fit in your printer. You will usually want one model at a time. If you want to have multiple 3D solids in a single STL file you will need to make their relationships exactly correct and know which side will rest on the build plate and then make those surfaces exactly planar. Then "Union" them together so they become a single piece even if there is air between them. That will fool the STL export utility. I've been around the block two or three times. I'm not a young man. One thing I know is that it is a very rare thing that the first design is the best design. Most designs need to be tweaked. We used to call it "giving them some love". I tend to make changes to a design while the current earlier design is printing. That kind of sucks. The one printing isn't done yet and it's obsolete.

I have seen some StartUp Gcodes in printer definition files that have the Steps/mm of all the stepper motors hard coded in. For cartesian printers the XYZ really never need to be adjusted while the E steps almost always need to be calibrated. Having the steps re-set on every print seems odd but maybe those printers don't store them in memory. If someone had tweaked the steps to increase accuracy and then started using a StartUp with the steps/mm in it then the tweaks would be over-written when the startup runs within the gcode file. Cura settings like "Outer wall inset", "Horizontal expansion", the new "Scaling factor shrinkage compensation" can have an effect and improper scaling of the model when it comes into Cura can be wrong (nice way to say user error). It sounds like you know that printer inside and out. You may have to tweak the steppers so their travel is correct but when it's set up right it should print correctly. I'm still amazed at the accuracy of my printer. Back in the day I ran a horizontal mill that was salvaged from a WWI warship. What a POS. It would certainly make bigger things and make them out of metal, but accuracy? Ha. +/- 2.5mm was about as good as it could do.

The important layer is the last layer of infill that the roof sits on. Since that layer has always been correct for me I'm guessing that Cura counts down from there and the infill only goes down every other layer so the layer below is empty. That's where the extra material goes. Layer 11 - everything and last bottom skin Layer 12 - everything but infill Layer 13 - everything but with infill at 2X material layer 14 - everything but infill layer 15 - everything but with infill at 2X material layer 16 - everything and first top skin. So the top surface of a layer is where it is. The extra material of the infill drops down to fill the missing layer of infill below. The same trick works with "Support Infill Thickness" for all those inner support walls. If the heavy flow of the double layers of infill/support lines bothers your extruder and it starts skipping steps then you can increase the "Flow Equalization Ratio" to slow the print head down. That will take some of the pressure off the extruder so it can keep up.

In the Infill section is "Infill Layer Thickness". Try setting that to 2X layer height. Then go to the Speed section and change the "Flow Equalization Ratio" to 0%. The infill will go down every other layer, and with no flow equalization the printer will maintain speed in spite of the double layer thickness flow of the infill.

Knife edges and feather edges are always tough because they taper down to near nothing. Cura can't fit the "Line Width" in there and so ignores that area of the slice. There are two new settings in the Walls section that might make a difference. "Split middle line threshold" and "Add middle line threshold". Try setting them both to 50% and see how it does. Load that model and use the Cura "File | Save Project" command and post the 3mf file here. Without seeing how you have it set up it's really impossible to tell what changes might make a difference.

Load the model, set Cura up to slice, use the "File | Save Project" command and post the 3mf file here. Without having an idea of the model geometry it's hard to tell what's really going on. These sorts of discrepancies are often associated with the Accel (and Jerk) numbers. Depending on the length of a move, the printer may never get near 100mm/sec. In addition, small features (towers, poles, etc.) can cause Cura to bounce off the "Minimum Layer Time" and Cura will slow the print speed down so a layer has time to cool before more plastic goes on top. At the Ender 3's default acceleration of 500mm/sec² it takes 10mm to get to 100mm/sec and then another 10mm to decel back to 0. So any move that is under 20mm can't hit 100 because it has to start slowing down before it gets to the 10mm point. Consider also that the 20mm movement is "0 to 100 to 0" for an average speed of 50mm/sec. Within the printer there are Maximum's for Accel and Speed. It's possible to ask Cura to set Accel to 6000mm/sec² and it will go into the gcode that way. Then the line gets to the printer and the printer says "No way...Max Accel is 500" and so the Cura time estimate is way off compared to how long the print actually takes to finish. My older Ender 3 Pro will print large flat areas at 175mm/sec (over that the extruder can't keep up). For small intricate models I might as well set it to 25mm/sec because it just can't get up to speed. Enders aren't good at high Accel as the stops and starts are so violent that the machine can hurt itself. So there are limiting factors that go well beyond the settings in any slicer. If you are printing a large square box then you could print it at 100mm/sec and the printer would actually spend time at 100mm/sec. A 10mm x 10mm box you can forget about high speeds as the printer just can't do it. Now consider those who hang a big direct drive extruder and a gigantic triple fan duct on the print carriage. They might need to drop the accel to 150 to keep from jumping teeth on the belt because of all the weight. Finally, your printer is a bed slinger. If the Y accel is too high and your print is tall and top heavy then it can throw the print right off the bed. That has been known to happen.

hallo @StudioL. Sorry for my response in English. "I had always assumed that 3D printers follow a vectorized path and then build up the 'wall thickness' themselves" No, it's the model that determines the Wall Thickness. Cura cuts sections through the model and prepares it's toolpaths depending on what it sees in the sections. If there is room within the model, then Cura can build the number of walls you asked for but if a model is 0.05 thick in the X or Y, and the Line Width is set to 0.4, then the feature cannot be printed as it is too narrow. If that model has some thickness (not made of a single surface that is infinitely thin), then you can scale the model in the "Y" only using the Scale tool on the left toolbar and turning off "Uniform Scaling". Here I changed the Y dimension to 125.

That's the one I use. It has better temperature resistance than the stock tube. I print a lot of PETG and it holds up.

All I see are the class 10 cards. Size matters and a 16gb card would be the highest I would go. 8gb cards are available. The printer MIGHT be able to read a 32gb card. I would suggest getting a card adapter. It only gets plugged into the printer once and after that you can use an easier to handle SD card and the big end of the adapter. I have this one from Amazon.

Line 23 is part of your start gcode. I didn't like it when I saw it but I figured hey, it worked with Simplify3d. It's "M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} T0" Delete the "T0". There is only one bed so there doesn't appear to be a need for T0 and it could be causing confusion in the printer/planner.