SandervG

Well there lies a challenge in these posts, for the same reason Daid adds his disclaimer.. these might get outdated due to software of firmware developments. I don't know if Daid wants to be held responsible for keeping the info up to date?On another note, I do have an idea on how to highlight the most important posts. And I can see how some, which might be less prone to quick changes, of these posts find a place there.

Hi @Torgeir, Thank you for your detailed post. What I understood from reading it, but not so certain from looking at the photo's you suggest to remove the feeder from an Ultimaker 2+ from the (looking from the front) left back side and move it to the right backside? With the intention that the curvature of the filament when you reach the end of a reel won't cause so much friction? If you also have to invert the reel itself.. wouldn't that kinda eliminate moving the feeder? In my mind it does, plus your photo's don't really support this idea so I am kinda assuming I didn't get your point

Hi @Yoter, thank you for your post. Sounds like you have already done quite some troubleshooting! Do you have a photo of what such a layer shift looks like in your print? If it is a very abrupt shift, it could be that one of your end stops is triggering a signal. If it is slightly more gradually, I would look into your pulleys. Alternatively, it could be that a motor or stepper driver is overheating, but at that speed, and if it also happens around the first layers, that sounds pretty unlikely. To rule out pulleys, when you are printing, can you prevent your printhead from moving around? Like stop it in its path? It should be quite hard to do, and most likely should start skipping steps than your pulley loosing grip / slipping. I don't think it would be silly to unplug the end stops during a print after it zeroed. You may want to stick around when the print finishes though. But worst case, it will try to move across the frame for like 5 seconds, causing some noise, and then will give up and stop. You could also try flipping the end stops, see if it changes the behaviour of your layer shift. Alternatively, you could also try to change your X and Y motor. In any case, some pictures would probably help.

I see how it can be confusing, but it is true that this is the build volume you can use. Technically, but also.. well.. normally A wipe tower is not always necessary, so I agree that a disclaimer or description of different scenarios could just add to the confusion. What could be a solution then... I can imagine that having to search for the solution is part of feeling frustrated, maybe in Cura there could be a message or intuitive way of indicating that a wipe tower make your build volume a bit smaller? What do you think? Most people expect it to list the max possible build volume. No one lists a smaller build volume, and with an asterisk mention, well.. you can also print bigger if you disable these and these settings.

It could also be an inconsistency in the material. Depending on if you can replicate it and how it manifests should help us diagnose the issue

Thank you for your message. Perhaps if you are willing to post some photo's of your print core we would be able to detect something which is slightly off? Have you tried again to grip it and see if it worked, based on the photo's? If it indeed still gets stuck somewhere, could you indicate on a photo where it gets stuck exactly? Looking forward hearing from you!

Do you have any more information on this specific reel of filament? Is it old? new? Usually if it gets tangled up, there has been a moment where you (by accident?) let go of the end of your filament, and it uncoiled itself. There is a risk of when putting it back on the reel, this can get tangled up later. It doesn't look like a hardware problem to me. Do you print your support at a certain speed, or have you tried different patterns? Have you tried a different reel, to see how that goes? Doesn't mean we can't trouble shoot this one, but if it goes alright it is kinda clear that this filament is the source of your problem. Helps us to focus on something. Thanks!

Could you share a photo of what the back of your Ultimaker 3 looks like, especially having both reels of filament, and how they are mounted, on the photo? Thanks!

Of course it depends on how you use the machine and treat your print cores, but with normal use we have done our best to bring that risk down to a minimum. You should be able to use your print cores for quite some time.

Hi SonKim, Thank you for your message. I am sorry to hear you were having difficulties getting the core out of your Ultimaker 3, but I am happy to hear you succeeded. Do you remember how you held the core, when grabbing the lever? If you do not squeeze it where the cone indicates where to hold your finger, you might not pull up the core straight up, but pull it 'in', tilting it. That might make it appear to be stuck. Give it a try, if this was indeed the case. Looking forward hearing from you!

Where have you purchased your Ultimaker 3? Reaching out to them with your situation should automatically connect you to a trained support engineer. Alternatively, if you could let me know I could also make sure someone reaches out to you. Looking forward hearing from you!

Ohhh @StephanK just beat me to it! Do you remember when your prints started warping @Jinja? Are you sure it happens with PLA too, have you also used ABS? It would be helpful if you could include a photo of what a warped print looks like, and how your first layer looks like. Have you tried using both sides of your glass plate? The side with the warning-sticker offers you the best adhesion. How do you clean your bed? Looking forward hearing from you!

Hi, thank you for your post. Lets keep that thought in mind, we all (want to) like Ultimaker! I think it is pretty unlikely that your nozzle jams, the print cores are very reliable. Can you upload some photo's from your feeder? What is the tension you have it set now? Do you have some photo's of your failed prints? - Why do you want to print at 1mm layer hight? At lower resolutions you can print faster and more reliable. With a 0.4mm nozzle, 1mm layer height is probably pushing the limits of what the nozzle can process. I would recommend to try another print, at something like 200 or 300 microns with the filament that came with the Ultimaker 3. Curious to hear how that goes!

I guess that model fills the same need. Does that solve your request?

How is it possible the kink got in there in the first place, any ideas?

Thank you for your message. What a mixture of emotions! Sorry to hear the error message remains, happy to hear the page is online, but sorry again that it didn't offer you a specific solution. Our partners have received training so they should be able to help you. If it can have a variety of reasons, it wouldn't make sense to list them all and you would be on your own to figure it out. A quick communication with a trained support engineer should be helpful, and if you could subtract a log that would probably also be helpful. I have also asked for some guidelines on what to look for, I'll share them with you once I hear back. Thanks!

Hi LePaul, Good to hear you have been nicely printing away with your Ultimaker 2+! I am not entirely sure what you are asking, on how to straighten your filament or how this kink got in the first place? What is the bowden tube full off? Dirt and remainders of grinding of the filament? Is it no longer feeding? Thanks!

Hi, thank you for your post. Could you pinpoint the layer shift on the photos where you see it? If there is a change in surface in Z, have you tried cleaning your threaded Z-rod? You can move the bed up and down and push a cloth in between the threads. Make sure to add some new magna lube once you have cleaned it.

Hi SpecialKrio, Thank you for your post. How are your projects going? Is the video finished already? Are you talking in general? A bushing is more like a sleeve, in this case a bronze cylindrical sleeve that ensures a smooth transition over the rods. A bearing has ball bearings etc so there is even less friction. Or do you mean why we use bearing or bushings in some locations? Or why bronze? I would have to double check.

Hah, cool that you still remember and we both still hang around here :)I am happy to hear you are considering keeping your Ultimaker 2 and modify it with Foehnsturms modification. I intend to talk to a lot of people on show days and the 3D printshow was really popular at start. Was it going to be your first step into 3D printing? - and no thanks, I am happy that I have been able to be of assistance

Really cool! I understand correct that you have made 2 versions, one open and one closed? Have you made other props too? You should also check out our current contest in which you can win an Ultimaker 3. It is about cosplay and prop making

The NFC chip in the holder can read / detect what material you place on the reel holder. Therefor, it automatically moves forward in the menu and you don't have to make a selection yourself Enjoy your new Ultimaker 3!

The page should go live today. @Jazzychad, what is the latest status of your Ultimaker? Let me know if you still need help. I could also get advice from our pro-support engineer who wrote the page to inform you about the best set of actions following this error-message. Looking forward hearing from you!

I'll see if I can collect them

We are looking into this bug. If you have any more feedback, please post it in the forum feedback post Last week we found out that I saw some quotes in bold, and my colleague didn't. But after logging in as me, he did. Not sure if this is related, but that is under investigation now. If you edit your post, and post it again without any edits, does it change back to normal?