gr5

"os scaling"? Is that t typo? What does it do? I can't find anything in the settings for example. If you click on a part to highlight it, several options occur on the left side including a scaling button. Is that what you want? To scale your part?

I believe that most printers don't accept G2 and G3 commands. Right? Or am I wrong. I don't think Ultimaker printers do but I'm not 100% certain. I've looked at much of the Marlin code and even if it does implement these I think it would most likely immediately turn them into line segments anyway. Postprocessor examples are easy to find and they are in python which it seems to me would be easy enough to then just call some executable. So at least your post processing extension/plugin idea seems reasonable.

First of all - don't get your printing surface and your printing area confused. I used to all the time. Your print head might not be able to reach all 4 corners of your print surface. So with power off, push the head around and see where the limits are before changing anything. Then if you want you can update the print area for your printer. Go to left side of screen in PREPARE mode. Click on your printer, then do "manage printers" then "machine settings" On this screen you can adjust your print area (but not your build surface so what you see on the bed margins won't match what you see in the Cura gui).

Are you printing these in the orientation in the first photo? I assume so. So one solution is to use PVA and rotate 90 degrees. I know you say PVA is messy but it works so well despite the mess. That's probably the best solution. The problem you are having I believe is related to air temperature being different at different altitudes. So you could turn off the heated bed and use blue tape instead. It's important that you remove the waxy non stick substance with a little bit of isopropyl alcohol. Just a few seconds of rubbing with a tissue. You only have to cover the area where your print will be and hopefully active leveling will figure the rest out. Adding support would also help.. In CAD you could add some towers to the right of the print in the first photo and connect them to the part evern cm or so. This should keep the part from wobbling. Also leave the doors open while you print and maybe even add a desk fan. This is PLA, right? Also I recommend you choose engineering mode profile, and use a thicker layer height 0.2 should be fine - compared to the error in warping of your part, 0.2 layer height is vanishingly small. But by far the easiest is to rotate 90 degrees and us pva support which will keep everything in place (like those towers I mentioned).

NEVER PRINT something without checking the PREIVEW mode first and sliding the slider to see what will happen on all the layers. Never. That would have saved you a lot of time and will help you realize within seconds what each option in Cura does. So I recommend you don't use "spiralize" as that has a built in "water tight" feature for vases and cups and I don't think you can disable that. Then make sure "bottom thickness" and "bottom layers" is set to zero and you will get no bottom. Also disable infill as it sounds like you want your part to be hollow (no infill).

right click on the part you want more of and choose "multiply selected model" Note that if you don't have your printer dialed in you may get a lot of stringing between the parts you print. Hopefully easy to clean up or otherwise your printer is a good one.

You would have to replace PCB and in the UM2 and you'd really want to add the touch screen to keep the software similar but now you need to change the frame (the UM2+ connect basically has the UM3 frame). So now it's getting to be a very expensive upgrade kit.

I have ubuntu. So you don't exactly "install" it as it's an "appImage" file which is already executable. You do however have to set the executable bit. You can google that but I'll try a brief explanation: I'm sure there is a GUI way to do this but I don't know it. Open a terminal window. Navigate to where Cura was downloaded to. For Chrome and for me it was just this: cd Downloads (case sensitive) Then find the file ls *AppImage (this is case sensitive) Then use chmod to set the executable bit (in windows, anything that ends ".exe" is executable - in linux you have to set a bit - it's not part of the file name, it's a bit). The "774" sets the executable bit. But for you - not for all users. chmod 774 Ultimaker_Cura-4.7.1.AppImage In this last example you can just type up to the "Ult" and then hit tab key for linux to fill in the rest (if it's a unique file name - read about tab key and linux as it's incredibly useful).

This usually means something has the file open already. And the only thing likely to have this file open is another copy of cura. Cura must be running. Perhaps it is not visible. If you can't find it running easily, try going to task manager, find it there and "end process". Wait until it's completely gone and then hit "retry" in your install window. Or just go to the folder yourself that is listed in the error and try to delete the file. You won't be able to do that if some process has it open.

Please read the posts above (starting back at the very first post). You have to edit a text "config" file. It's explained in detail - where the file is and how to get Cura to reread the config file.

🙂 Next time post on this forum sooner. 🙂

In the very first picture in the first post it looks like there is some surface tension between two traces that make a line between. I suppose it *could* be a line going the other direction but that seems very unlikely. I've never seen that problem before.

I looked at your stl. The stl has an outer and inner wall and cura is slicing it just as it is shown in CAD. In other words, the CAD model is hollow, so the slicer also makes it hollow. Although the head is solid. You can fix this in cura by going to "Mesh Fixes" section and checking the box "remove all holes". Is this your model? You can simplify the CAD model greatly if you hadn't created those inner walls.

screen captures please. You probably need to do that when you created the STL but I'm guessing as there are many different ways to make lithopanes.

You may be right that it is extruding more in one direction than the other but I have no idea why it would do that. Something to do with where the filament spool enters the machine and it gets pinched or something as the head moves back and forth. I would turn off power and remove the filament. Once head is cool slide the filament in and out of the print head and feel the friction (ideally with nozzle removed) and then move the print head to the 4 corners of your print area and see if that friction changes.

I don't know what you are talking about. I am seeing both directions are exactly equally underextruded. Those gaps are an indication of underextrusion and go away at the edge of the part where the print head is slowing down. I have indeed seen underextrusion in the past only happen in one direction on printers with a bowden where when you tighten/loosen the curvature of the bowden it over/under extrudes but I don't see that in your photos.

In the first picture just above (2 pictures up) you can see where it slows down for the end point it fills in nicely but when at full speed it is under extruding by about 30% (one third is air gap). This is pretty bad underextrusion. I don't know what is causing it. I'd try cutting the speed in half again (I think you can do that in TUNE menu live while printing). There may be something wrong with the printer. The lower picture (picture just above) is typical of the first layer after infill. You can see the infill pattern below. Usually you want 6 layers above infill to get back to perfect top layer. At a glance it looks fine. I'd have to see the 6th layer above this to be sure.

Very strange. At first I wanted to blame your model but I see no "shadow" outside the screw. Is this viewing software Cura? (it looks like it). Please reproduce the problem and then do "file" "save...". This will create a file that has your machine settings, your slicing settings, your model, and the position/scale of your model. Basically everything stored into one file. Then post it here so we can look at it. Another idea: did you enable "draft shield" in cura? Another idea: set line width to 0.1mm (all 10 or so line widths) temporarily to see if it shows more structure to this outer cylinder like thing.

I think you can just go to the middle tab on the left side of the printer, select the top right item (right core) and change it to anything you want. You can have it ignore the RFID and just choose PVA manually. In other words when it says PLA and there is a confirm button, don't hit the confirm button. Instead scroll to PVA and select that.

In cura, red isn't always bad. In PREPARE mode it usually just indicates areas that may need some support. Or may not. How thick is this portion of your suit? Does it have a thickness in CAD? Make sure it's at least 1mm thick ideally or if it's about 0.5mm thick you can try "print thin walls" option in Cura. Also consider setting the line width to 0.1mm just as a test (don't actually leave it like that when you print it!) to see if it shows in PREVIEW that it will print. If so then the problem is the thickness in CAD.

90% of your issue on the bottom layer is what we call "underextrusion". If it occurs mostly on the first layer then it means you haven't levelled very well. Typically the bottom layer is 0.3mm thick (it's a cura setting - initial layer height) and it prints with the Z value at the same value (in this case 0.3) which means the nozzle is 0.3mm above the glass in this example. Except you are supposed to level things a bit tight so it's really only say 0.2mm above the glass so that you overextrude the bottom layer. If you don't overextrude the bottom layer and get some good squish going then the part will almost surely come loose by the end of the print. So answer #1: leveling problem. However you said you get underextrusion on other layers so you have a more serious underextrusion issue and maybe not a leveling problem. A typical printer maxes out at about 5-20 cubic mm per second. So keeping it below 5 should be easy for any printer. To calculate the number multiply your line width X layer height X print speed. Yikes Math! Don't panic. It's just 3 numbers you probably already know memorized. Line width is probably 0.4mm if you have a .4 nozzle and layer height is probably 0.1mm or 0.2mm and print speed you should know. So for example 0.4mm line width and 0.1mm line height and 40mm/sec multiplies out to 1.6mm^3/sec. Well under 5. So check that first. Answer #2: underextrusion. Regarding some lines being thicker and the line going the other way being thinner - it's probably a little bit of backlash/play as stated in the 3dverkstan guide. But it looks very minor in the above photos. Fix underextrusion first. Answer #3: don't worry about backlash/play - the amount you have appears minor.

Video is finally working. Try swapping the ethernet cable with a working printer.

Did you design this part? If so I can explain how to fix the model - I think the normals are backwards for that one hole. I have instructions on fitting normals for 3 different cad packages. Otherwise, you can mess around with the checkboxes in the section called "mesh fixes". Most notably maybe uncheck "union overlapping volumes" and maybe uncheck everything else as well. Also there's a feature somewhere that sets some resolution parameter when trying to loop rings of points together. Cura has an amazing plugin to test your model to see if something is wrong with it and can repair a very few of the many potential problems: In the upper right corner of Cura click "marketplace" and make sure you are on the "plugins" tab and install "Mesh Tools". Then restart Cura. Now right click on your model, choose "mesh tools" and first choose "check mesh", then "fix model normals" and "fix simple holes" to see if that helps. Cura doesn't fix most issues so... netfabb free repair service is here (you have to create a free account first): https://service.netfabb.com/login.php

Lol! yeah ignore that. That's the move tool I only ever look at the Z value there because sometimes I move the part up or below the print plane. I'm talking about the machine settings - please show a screen shot of the screen settings that show the width, depth, height of your build volume and the (0,0) checkbox thing - show that it is indeed unchecked please. If you don't know what I'm talking about then please reread my posts above.

Your printer probably has some variant of Marlin firmware which by default disables the extruder if the hot end is below some temperature (e.g. 160C). Maybe you need to "allow cold extrudes" with an M302 gcode command.