gr5

Yes you can do that. It's called infill line directions. I just tried it. This will get you what you want infill pattern: lines infill line directions: [0,0,0,90,90,90]

All resellers have the rubber seals. Actually they are called "silicone pads" I think. All resellers sell all parts but not everything is listed on their websites. fbrc8.com has them in stock and can get them out to you quickly. I got some from them a few weeks ago. The S5 has a newer silicone pad that is supposed to be better than the older white ones. The newer pads are transparent. The older ones are white. I think they are 3 pads for $6. Very cheap.

I read your question 30 times. I read the answer 5 times. I think I understand. In the picture above it goes top to bottom and then the very next second it goes bottom to top. You want always top to bottom. @smartavionics - is there a control for this? Why do you want this? For a smoother top layer? Have you tried the ironing features? Turn on "enable ironing". There are a lot of things to play with in ironing. I have heard that a speed of 40 gives a smoother result than the default of 20.

Good news! Cura has this feature. It's called "gradual infill steps". Try this: infill pattern: lines infill density: 50% gradual infill steps 4 infill step height 1.5 That gives you this:

When a core is not in use it cools that core so it won't leak/drip. So there can be a delay while waiting to heat the new core back up. There is a feature that preheats the core a certain amount of time before it switches cores. Did you mess with any of the temperatures or any parameters that were in seconds?

Also the filament sensor is disabled on the bottom layer and possibly the next layer up.

To me the power budget feature is very simple but it seems to confuse people. The power budget feature does not know how much power each element uses so you jsut tell it. Tell it how many watts everything is and what the budget is and it will make sure heaters are turned off or turned down a bit when they would exceed the budget. The bed gets lowest priority.

You can set "horizontal expansion" to 0.3mm to get all the walls up to 0.8. But it will make everything 0.3mm thicker. Anyway this is the simplest solution I can think of. I recommend at least 0.8mm walls. If you want to go thinner - say 0.6mm walls then you will need to enable "print thin walls".

I'm not sure about PEI but whatever is used must be "high temp" because auto leveling is performed with the nozzle "at temp" for the current material. This is because if there is even 0.1mm of solid material on the tip of the nozzle then it will throw off autoleveling. So it's done at a temp where the material is properly melted. The other problem is that the heaters for the bed and nozzle have to be off during autolevel because the EM (electromagnetic) noise interferes with autolevel. Personally, if I were the programmer who wrote autolevel I would turn the bed on briefly in between each leveling point and if the temp got too low I would even pause the procedure to reheat the nozzle. Also I wouldn't autolevel every single point on the bed if the part to be printed was small. Just autolevel for the area needed for the print. Anyway... According to google PEI glass temp (softening temp) is at 217C. So maybe it's possible to do the autolevel with PEI if you keep the temp of the nozzles below 200C or so and modify the autolevel procedure a little bit. Also maybe the tip could be "wiped" along the edge of the print bed as part of the initial leveling procedure? not sure if this is a good idea or not.

1) It works fine for me in 3.6. You have to "prepare" the part first (slice it). 2) "your content will need to be approved" - all new members get that for the first 3 posts or so. We get a lot of spammers posting ads for thing like drugs and sex. Every day. Every. Day. I hate it. I hate spammers. I hate spam. Spam causes me so much grief every day. The biggest problem is I have trouble sending emails to certain people and certain people have trouble sending emails to me. Because spam blockers are so aggressive. Because spammers are so aggressive. So don't hate the moderators. Hate the spammers.

Oh it's a big deal. Also Ultimaker tried really hard to get this to work. They spent a lot of money on this. They gave up.

Getting a second sheet of glass is welcome news as I have already damaged my glass a little bit (I had a print that stuck too well to the glass and the print ripped out a flat sliver of glass from the bed).

@zungara - ABS works great on glass. The only material I know of that doesn't work well on glass and would have benefited from the brushed aluminum plate is PP. For ABS it's critical to get the build plate above the softening temp of ABS which is around 99C. I print ABS with the build plate at 110C to be safe. Unfortunately I don't think this is the default bed temp for ABS. This is one of 4 critical things to do in order to keep large ABS parts on the build plate. Another critical thing is to use brim for large parts for 2 reasons. Another critical thing is to add either liquid PVA or ABS juice to the glass. I recommed ABS juice. You can google it. The final critical thing (squish) is done automatically on the S5 and you don't have much control (autoleveling can't be disabled) so we won't talk about it.

If this is ABS filament then I have a different answer. But more likely this is PLA and the legs are just not attached well enough to the glass. Maybe add some gluestick and then thin the layer a LOT with a wet tissue. You want a layer so thin you almost can't see the layer of pva glue. Also maybe make the bottom of the feet a little flatter (there is an option in cura settings to not have it always set Z position to zero and then you can position the reindeer at -0.5mm).

Thanks. Downloaded. I'm still waiting for my daughter to provide the model.

The extruder should speed up and the X,Y speeds should stay the same. How are you changing diameter setting? In filament settings?

> we don't want to be touching and tweaking the machine every day). I was going to say something about this but forgot. Compared to most other 3d printers out there this is the best reason to go with Ultimaker but this is not like a 2D paper printer. It's more like owning a milling machine than owning a paper printer. There is still a learning curve. But I think Ultimaker did a good job of making it as easy as possible.

If you don't need to print large things, definitely get the UM3. The S5 has a nicer touch screen but there are no new capabilities on the screen that make it essential. The S5 has multipoint auto leveling which will compensate for glass which is saddle shaped or other shapes. The UM3 only compensates for tilt in 2 axes and height (but hopefully there will be a firmware upgrade some day as the UM3 has all the necessary hardware - it's a firmware feature). This autoleveling compensates for the first several layers by moving Z while printing a layer and gradually un-adjusts such that by 1 or 2 cm up it's no longer adjusting the Z. You don't need this as much for the UM3 because a smaller printer means smaller glass which means the bumps/curves of the glass are smaller (we are typically talking errors in the glass around 0.1mm). The S5 comes with front doors but you can get cheap 3rd party doors for the UM3. You want to cover the front and top of the printers if you print higher temp materials like Nylon and ABS. They can do it without a top but you will get much better results if you cover the top. The S5 comes with a filament run-out sensor. It's quite handy if you forget to look behind the printer to make sure you have enough filament. And the firmware works very very well at letting you switch out filament mid-print. This is more useful on a printer with such a large volume that by default only holds .75kg of filament (it's trivial to put a 5kg spool on the floor behind the printer though). I find the quality of the UM3 slightly better but it's really hard to tell. I could be wrong - they are almost identical but the head has more momentum on the S5 due to the heavier rods that pass through it. That's all I can think of right now.

They would not both work. You should choose -6 in the above case. It is indeed a bad example. You want to choose the closest value to zero which may be positive or it may be negative. Typically it will always be less than 10.

I'm not certain of the answer but in general if active leveling fails I think it retries about 5 or 10 times before giving up.

I am guessing you are on slice view and it hasn't sliced yet. Is that correct? If so try clicking the button in the bottom right corner, "Prepare".

I don't understand the question. Are you asking how thick a wall has to be in order for Cura to slice it? In general if the wall is thinner than 2X the nozzle width then it won't slice it. But there are work arounds. Or are you asking for Cura to look at every wall in your model and tell you which walls are too thin? Can't your cad software do that?

There are many causes for this issue. For me personally, both times it happened, it was because first one, then a few months later the other wire inside the head broke. Swing open the front door and look inside the head (pull the head to the front of the printer so you can get close). Inside there is a metal plate painted white. This is the capacitivie sensor. There should be a small red and white wire. Give them a gentle tug. On my printer they came loose. I soldered them back on and all was good. Other possibilities: this sensor is extremely sensitive to electrical noise. So stay a meter away while leveling is happening. Keep laptops and cell phones and other EM transmitters at least a meter away as a test. Make sure nozzle tips are clean and bed is clean. Watch the leveling. If it stops before the nozzle hits the glass it's probably noise. If it hits the glass and keeps going and going and going then it could be the loose wire thing or the spring in the core is too soft and the core goes up instead of the bed getting pushed down. Normally it should just barely kiss the bed and immediately jump away from the glass.

Is it a single static spark/shock or is it a continuous voltage? If it's static then you should be getting static shocks on everything that are metal when you shuffle your feet on the carpet or remove your sweater. If it's a constant AC signal from the power supply then have an electrician take a look at the wiring of your room power. Sometimes an electrician hooks up wall power backwards by accident.

Definitely send all 6 back for 6 new ones. To Carl. There definitely were dodgy issues with the ptfe back in April due to a vendor changing I.D. size of teflon but it only affected about 1% but still - get the latest version. The leveling issue is also a vendor issue - one lot of springs were too weak. So when it levels instead of the bed pushing down, the core pushes up and it levels completely wrong. This is fixed in the latest version or you can simply remove the screw through the clear part, stretch the spring, and reinsert it. Or do manual leveling. Or loosen all 3 screws a bit so that the springiness of the bed is gentler than the springiness of the cores. The "size" issue is more complicated. The clear part on the core is thicker and on some S5's and UM3's it hits the door when the door closes. if you slide a piece of paper between the clear plastic part and the door and there is no gap then that's the problem. Again - only a problem for a small amount of printers (and I think only on S5s). This is fixed on latest version (clear part is thinner). Also the cabling that goes to the heater and sensor are much stiffer on the 3dsolex version and that can hit the door. But you just shove them up into the core a bit and recheck the door until it closes solidly. I check all the 3dsolex cores I ship by putting each one in an S5 and a UM3. All of these 3 issues have been a problem for a small subset of people. UM cores have similar issues and resellers tell me they tend to have more issues with UM cores than 3dsolex cores. Which is a kind of weak excuse. The above 3dsolex issues are resolved as of about a month ago. Carl is very very good about warranty. UM will not warranty cores as they are "consumables". Like filament.