gr5

Best way is probably to use "support blocker" feature. There are some great videos about this. Maybe on youtube search for "cura support blocker". You can tell it to ONLY disable support in that circled area. It's important that the support blocker is covering the TOP of where that support is supporting so stretch the support blocker much taller than you think you need.

There is and that could be the problem but unlikely. It's the same sensor that knows the temp of the nozzle but a different circuit. More likely it's a bad wire in or just above the print head. Heat the nozzle to 80C so it starts spinning the fan. Then slide up the black mesh that covers the wiring above the print head and touch/push/play with the cabling. I believe the wiring is a black and red wire - at least on the fan end of the connector. Play with things to see if you can get the fan to fail. Maybe also take the head apart (just those 4 long screws). Don't burn your fingers on the heater block.

@CarloK - I think I know some other people who would be interested in this. Assume we know linux - how to ssh to the machine, locate and edit files. But not what edits to make. Also where would the sensor plug in?

I'd still like to see a picture of the problem please.

@jojoreondo73 - please post your project file (which includes your stl and lots more). From cura do "file" "save project".

Regarding gcode flavor, if you use the ultimaker2 flavor then you can control retraction live while it's printing and experiment. You can do this in the TUNE menu. You can also create a custom filament type on the printer (e.g. TPU95) and it can have custom settings for a few things including retraction distance (and speed I think?), nozzle temp, bed temp, fan speed. I actually have a few parts that I print a lot in 2 different materials (nGen and PLA) but I only have one gcode file for both as I select the material on the printer.

So what is the problem? Is it stringing too much (you mentioned retraction a lot which helps prevent stringing). Or is it underextruding? (underextrusion is the most common problem with soft filaments) Or does printing fail completely? (also common with soft filaments - the filament can get crumpled up in the feeder). Regarding "too much support", look into "support blocker" feature of cura. There are great videos on youtube and other explanations if you google how to use the support blocker feature. It makes it very easy to block support in any one spot of your model.

If you are good with ssh you can make your S5 in "developer" mode from the controller. Then it will how it's ip address at the top. You can ssh into the machine using username/password ultimaker/ultimaker and then send gcodes to move the X and Y axes without having to home the axes. You can also swap cables and the problem moves to the Y stepper then it is indeed the stepper driver. But I haven't ruled out the "limit switch" possibility without seeing a video first.

Could you please take a short video? Steppers are incredibly tough and your printer is pretty tough as well. I'm guessing the problem is that the limit switch isn't getting hit. For the X axis the limit switch is in the rear left corner in the top of the machine. It's easy for that to get loose or moved or for nothing to be pushing against it. It's extremely rare that a stepper needs to be replaced. However, sometimes a stepper driver fails. But your description isn't specific enough. I really need to see a video.

Vous pouvez simplement désactiver le capteur de débit. Cela éliminera les messages. Je l'ai désactivé sur mon imprimante. C'est dans l'un des menus.

You may be better with the Ultimaker TPU profile. They said something about 1-3mm of retraction for TPU but that's not enough for an S5. That recommendation is for a direct drive extruder. Ultimaker doesn't sell any printers with that type of extruder.

Oh! The retraction speed is set to 60. That is what gets the error. 45 is the maximum value for the S5 printer. Just set the retraction speed to 45. Maybe you don't know how to do that... So click "custom" as shown here: Then enter the word "retraction" here and change it to 45. Then you should be able to slice.

You need to explain what you mean by "fails" before anyone can answer the question. Otherwise we are just guessing.

This is vague but I assume you mean not much comes out of the nozzle. Other issues might be that the part is not sticking well. If that is your issue then let us know.

People think this technique is nuts but it works and everyone who tries it realizes that. People are afraid to try it. They think the oil will come out the nozzle and mess things up. But the oil doesn't affect the prints. Add a drop of oil to the filament before sending it through the bowden so that the bowden gets tiny drops all around. Then if possible, unspool the filament so it is hanging down and add one drop which will slide down a meter or so. Every meter of printing add one drop of oil. Adding oil (any oil but you don't want it to go rancid so use any kind of light machine oil like "3-in-one". Other techniques: print much slower. I've printed TPU as slow as 10mm/sec. Also set the feeder to the lightest pressure (indicator all the way up). Otherwise it will underextrude. Print on the high temperature end of the suggested range.

There are dozens of things that can block extrusion from happening and they can be at the feeder end or the hot end or even a tangled spool. How do you know it's the nozzle? Is it cold to the touch? Did you try this test? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mrZbX-SfftU

Sometimes you have to turn it off and on again - it will usually continue where it left off or revert back to the previous working firmware. Try that at least twice, giving it 15 minutes each time. Then if that doesn't work contact your reseller.

Start by turning it back on and leaving it for 15 minutes. And if it doesn't recover turn it off and on one more time. If that still doesn't work contact your reseller.

You may have 2 unrelated issues. Let's first talk about nonextrusion. PVA is very easily clogged in the right nozzle. If you keep the nozzle hot and don't extrude for many minutes the PVA starts to caramelize into a gummy gunk that is hard to push out the nozzle. It turns brown or black as well when it caramelizes (just like everything else that caramelizes - like toast - or caramel). On the front of your S5 go to the second menu down tab on the left then click in the top right corner on the material in the right core and then choose MOVE. When it gets up to temp (don't let it sit there at temp for a long time), try getting the PVA to come out through the nozzle. If that works keep going until it's no longer brown or black. If you can't get it to come out it's okay to help the feeder by lifting up hard on the filament. This might keep the bowden from coming out. If you can't get material to come out you should try some cold pulls. Go into the maintenance menu to do cold pulls. You may need to do 5 or 10 or even 20 cold pulls so be patient. It's worth it. ISSUE 2 - Bowden popping out. If you fix issue #1 you probably won't have issue #2 anymore. However it should never pop out. The PVA should grind to dust before the bowden comes out so you can decide if you want to fix this or not. First be aware that there are 4 tiny metal blades in the white collet. by now these blades have scraped the bowden so it is smaller. Simply cut a few mm off the end of the bowden so the tiny metal blades have fresh virgin bowden to dig into. Also maybe inspect the blades. If one or more is missing then buy a new collet. They cost less than $1 or 1 euro each. When removing a bowden ALWAYS push firmly down on the collet ring while pulling out the bowden. If you don't do this you will damage either the bowden (scrape it thinner) or you will damage those tiny blades. Usually the bowden is what gets damaged.

Try PLA as breakaway support. It works AMAZINGLY well for PETG and PETG and CPE are very similar materials (maybe they are identical - I think the formulations are a secret). So I'd give it a shot. As a non-dissolvable support material you have to be careful where you allow the supports. I'd just use it to support the outer extremetries of those loops. ALSO it looks like you have some bad shaking for those columns. You can probably reduce that by putting the print a little more towards the back of the print bed where it won't bounce as much. Although I suspect that in your specific case - bouncing isn't the problem. I'm not sure what the problem is. Hmm. That center print - the right tower has all this extra crap on it and the left tower is so underextruded it is missing most of the tower. Something is messed up here but I don't know what. Are you using a support tower? That might be your main issue. Okay I'm changing my advice: 1) Make sure the the PVA is resting on the print bed and not only on top of PLA. To do this increase "support horizontal expansion" to at least 5mm or whatever it takes so that the PVA is securely on the print bed. 2) use a support tower - that should correct the over extrusion of the right vertical post and the under extrusion of the left vertical post. 3) Use support blocker for the central part of the print. That's a huge waste of PVA in areas that don't need any support. You just need support where those "race tracks" curve around 180 degrees. This 3rd suggestion is not going to make the print any better but it will save you tons of time so you can do more experiments and save on PVA and save on the time to remove the PVA by many hours.

Aha! So there could be loose wires near the door hinge but it's easier to check the connector and the connector often pulls out a bit (partway). There are 4 very long screws oriented vertically in the 4 corners of the print head. Remove the rear two (the head will still stay together nicely). Then pop off the rear half of the top panel that holds the cable in place. Once open, check that cable - it doesn't come out of the connector easily because it is latched in but still - push the connector back down. Do this while print head is in the corner of the printer so you don't bend the rods. While reassembling if the cable seems like it can pull/slide - maybe add a shim of some sort - maybe a piece of paper between the cable and the clamping top of the print head. To keep the cable from pulling out.

To get that filament out you will have to disassemble I think. Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ln_tMz8Dwd0

Leveling with a cold nozzle is going to cause a failed print 99% of the time because there is almost always at least 0.3mm of filament sticking out the tip which will make leveling too high by 0.3mm so the bottom layer won't stick at all.

You can also disable active leveling yourself: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/23706-disable-automatic-active-bed-levelling-for-ultimaker-s5/?do=findComment&comment=293936 Normally I don't recommend this as most pieces of glass are not flat and you need active leveling to map out the hills on the glass but you have a very special case.

Okay so here's how to disable active leveling on S3 or S5. But keep in mind that 1) This is not an approved operation by Ultimaker. If you are going to call customer service about something, put it back the way it was or install the latest firmware first. 2) You shouldn't do it if you are a beginner regarding unix/linux. 3) You can "brick" your machine if you make a typo (like delete a semicolon or comma). Unbricking requires a 4GB uSD card and an email to your reseller and special screw driver if you have the S5R1 (to get bottom cover off). 4) Every time you update your firmware you will lose your edits and have to do them again. 5) On the other hand many people have done this and it went fine. Before you start I recommend you order a 4-32GB uSD card and an Olimex-serial-cable-F in case you brick your machine. Either of these tools will allow quick recovery without having to wait a day or more for one of these to arrive. I probably scared you by now but really - it's not so bad. First you need so ssh to your printer and to do that you need it in developer mode - it's in the menus on the printer. Your machine needs to be on your network (wifi or ethernet) if it isn't already. Once it's on the network it will show the IP address at the top of the main screen. Next you need ssh which is built into linux and Macintosh terminal but not windows. For windows I recommend putty: https://www.chiark.greenend.org.uk/~sgtatham/putty/latest.html In putty you don't type the "ssh" part but just put the root@111.222.333.444 part and click "open". ssh root@1.2.3.4 (don't enter 1.2.3.4 - enter the ip address listed on your S3/S5) username/password: root/ultimaker Edit the file alignZAxisProcedure.py in /usr/share/griffin/griffin/printer/procedures/pre_and_post_print/auto_bed_level_adjust In line 49 there is the magic: self.__probing_mode = ProbeMode.DETAILED Change to: self.__probing_mode = ProbeMode.NEVER Common editors to edit text files in linux are: vi, emacs, nano. vi has quite the learning curve even just to change on word in the file. Use nano if the printer has it: cd /usr/share/griffin/griffin/printer/procedures/pre_and_post_print/auto_bed_level_adjust nano alignZAxisProcedure.py exit nano with Ctrl+X and follow directions for saving (or not saving if you messed things up. After editing restart griffin. Make sure it successfully is working befor exiting ssh because if griffin doesn't start your machine is bricked yet you have a window while you are still running ssh (when you reboot the printer, if griffin fails to start, it doesn't start ssh so the printer is bricked). systemctl restart griffin.printer systemctl status griffin.printer The second command checks the status of griffin after it restarts. Again - if you have one misplaced character, griffin won't restart and you need to repair your edit before power cycling. If you power cycle and griffin won't start you can't ssh in again to fix the problem and you need to follow the unbricking procedure which can take hours if you haven't done it before and days if you don't have the needed parts.