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If the filament is slipping then yes you can fix this by slowing everything down. You can either make the layer height smaller or you can lower the printing speed. Note that there are about 8 printing speeds for each extruder. Make sure you are on the extruder 2 tab and make sure you adjust the support speed. Usually you want to go 2X slower as an initial test. You can then speed things up in the TUNE menu while you are printing live. However unless you increased the speed or layer height from the defaults, it should be able to print without slipping even at double the default speeds the feeder shouldn't slip. This indicates possibly the feeder isn't set to the middle tension setting (the indicator should be about in the center) or there is a partial clog. Yes you say it feeds PVA just fine but it may be slower than normal - it may be that the pva has lowered the inner diameter from 0.4mm to 0.3mm. Unless you time how fast you can extrude it's hard to notice (other than the feeder starts skipping).

The S5 does about 25 probe points and it takes a while. So the "footprint" probing can save quite a bit of time. With the UM3 I think maybe there's only 9 probe points? So you don't really need this feature. The UM3 only calibrates out z offset, and x and y tilt. The S5 creates a height map so there can be high and low spots on the glass and they are compensated for when it prints the bottom few mm. Anyway I don't think "footpoint probing" makes sense for the UM3 leveling.

If the PVA feeder is slipping you almost surely have a partial block. The PVA caramelizes (turns brown, harder, stickier) and can coat the inside of the 0.4mm passage inside the nozzle. This is best fixed with a lot of cold pulls. See the Maintenance menu on your printer. It walks you through hot and cold pulls. You may need 10 to 30 cold pulls to get most of the gunk out. Really. 3 cold pulls won't be enough. Also you can google about "cold pulls" as there are tons of great videos and it's interesting to see how people do it on other printers - actually quite informative. Another option is to just "throw money at it" and buy another BB 0.4 core. Another thing I like to do is after I heat the nozzle, I use a hypodermic needle (23 gauge which is 0.35mm diameter) to scrape the inside of the nozzle back and forth for a few minutes. Get all that brown gunk off.

By the way - many times what seems like a "blocked nozzle" is actually some other problem such as a "3rd fan broken" (the fan in the door of the print head which should always be on when either core is above 60C) or perhaps the feeder has an issue.

1) There's a little lever on the print head. On the right side. Slide that frontwards and backwards and make sure the right hand core is moving up and down. If not then there is probably a broken part in there and you can order it but first take the head apart to figure this out. There is lots of documentation to be found. google it. 2) If that works then you need to go into maintenance/calibration and run the "lift switch calibration" procedure. After you've done it a few times it typically takes about 20 seconds to do. Super easy. As easy as say changing a core.

This is rare but probably more common on a brand new machine. I'd guess that there was a tiny bit of something either in the bowden tube or on the filament that got carried along into the nozzle. Something that doesn't melt at 200C such as a bit of teflon or PFA or a grain of sand or bit of metal. Anyway - try a cold pull. Go to the menu on the UM3/S3/S5 and under maintenance (I think) somewhere there is an option to do hot and cold pulls. Try the cold pull until you get a perfect image of the tip.

Just buy some 3mm filament! You can indeed print 1.75 on a UM printer but you should really make some modifications. For example 3dsolex has some kits. But really - just buy the 3mm filament. Sometimes it's called "2.95" or "2.85" so it's harder to find in search boxes of filament sellers but it's really not that hard to find.

You could post the STL file so I could have a look at it. You probably have the normals backwards in many parts of the file. An stl file has an unordered list of triangles in 3d space. The normals tell cura which side of each triangle faces in or out. You can fix the normals with cura or in cad. normals are very easy to fix either way. For example in sketchup or blender it's super easy to fix them all. If this model is from blender google about the "remesh modifier". And also about "normals" in blender. More here: https://www.sculpteo.com/en/tutorial/prepare-your-model-3d-printing-blender/ If this model is from sketchup read this: https://i.materialise.com/blog/3d-printing-with-sketchup/ Cura has an amazing plugin to test your model to see if something is wrong with it and can repair a very few of the many potential problems: In the upper right corner of Cura click "marketplace" and make sure you are on the "plugins" tab and install "Mesh Tools". Then restart Cura. Now right click on your model, choose "mesh tools" and first choose "check mesh", then "fix model normals" Also in cura "mesh fixes" make sure "remove all holes" is unchecked.

Did you try simply turning on the nozzle heater? Around 120C for PLA should soften it nicely such that it kind of "peels off". Or is the heater or sensor already destroyed? If you are in Europe, 3dsolex.com has cheap, reliable replacements. If you explain the error message/messages I can tell you which is broken (heater versus sensor).

This discussion of ABS is confusing the issue as I think the original poster mentioned only PVA and Nylon. So I suspect the above print is Nylon which makes a huge difference. You can make fantastic ABS prints but it's much more difficult. You want to enclose the printer and get the air temp up to about 35C. You want the fan on (at least my S5) at around 1 to 3%. You want to test layer adhesion as that is the most common problem with ABS once you get parts to no longer "warp". But back to @Balshaj... I recommend going back to the default settings. Don't use support for that cube. Keep your filaments VERY dry. If your part isn't sticking watch my video that I posted earlier. I talk about surface preparation (pva glue stick versus wood glue (similar to pva) versus hair spray (similar to pva) versus ABS juice etc). Why parts warp. Why bed temp matters (not what you think). Why squish is so important. Why you don't need raft (an old technology that isn't needed anymore with heated beds). Why raft helped in the "old" days before PLA was popular.

Oh! I'm a dope! I misunderstood. @babursaglam said the problem was in the Y direction but I was thinking he meant the X direction (hitting left side of printer). So no need to modify printer! The G28 (home command) should work fine and no hardware changes are necessary. In this case tinkergnome's solution is best.

The Y axis (and X and Z axes) doesn't know where it is until it hits that limit switch. So it MUST hit that limit switch before you can start moving things around. I take it back. You can actually skip the homing procedure. It's extra work. You need to switch your machine settings from "ultigcode" to "marlin". You need to slice something and then hand edit the gcode and remove the G28 command (home). You need to manually home the 3 axes (put the X,Y, and Z axis where you want 0,0,0 to be) before you start printing. That will probably work. BUT if you accidentally forget any of these steps you could break the pen. Or at least get a lousy drawing. Or if you are going through the controls and forget and do something like a "level bed" or some other command from the menu on the printer, it will likely try to home the axes.

You can't really fix this in gcode because the printer must home and to home the Y axis it needs to move all the way to the left until the limit switch is tripped. So you have only 2 choices that I can think of: 1) Move the pen to the right side of the print head 2) Move the Y limit switch to the right by about 1cm. In your photo, on top of your printer, in the rear left corner there are 2 button-head screw heads visible. Very close together. Those are for the Y limit switch. If you look under neath where those screws go you can see the limit switch. You might be able to bend the limit switch by the width of your pen. Careful or you may break the metal tab but if you only bend it once or twice it should survive. Or you could drill two new holes 1cm to the right of the existing and remount the limit switch (aka end stop switch) 1cm to the right.

If this ever happens again, instead of using your custom "LXEU-UMS3" machine settings, you could add another generic S3 printer (you can have as many as you want) and then you can compare your custom S3 to the default S3 settings. In fact you might want to do that anyway and see if anything else changed.

It says "flash point 95C" and I heat my bed hotter than that (very rarely - only when I print ABS). Do you suppose that flash point only applies when the resin is still "wet"?

I and other's have had this exact problem and for all of us that I know of, it was in the cabling just above or inside the print head. So you may be able to debug this just by poking the cabling. Literally, poking it with your fingers. If you have a friend with a multimeter and who knows electronics, this is a very easy thing to debug and repair. Otherwise it's a big undertaking (ordering and replacing parts one at a time).

So Ultimaker claims that USB printing on the UM2 is unreliable and to be avoided. In the future, why not use the SD card instead? Then if your computer crashes it won't matter.

It's a feature, not a bug. It's called the "prime blob". I don't know if it's in the firmware or in cura. What material are you printing? Maybe you should add some thing to your glass bed so the prime blob stays in the corner. The head is supposed to push the blob downwards so it sticks in place. I think? I'm not a big fan of the prime blob since I do a "skirt" which takes care of priming. Anyway for PLA, PETG, nGen, and Nylon I use a mixture of elmers wood glue and water. That keeps the prime blob from dragging into my print: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t58-WTxDy-k The above video has an index early on in the video and you can skip to surface preparation where I demonstrate 3 ways to prepare your glass such that the prime blob will stay in the corner.

First of all - keep your bed hot - if you let it cool to room temp the part may easily pop off the bed. So keep the bed at 60C (or whatever was your printing temp) as soon as possible! Going to 19.03.1 is a good thing as there is a pretty serious bug in older version if you are using the power budget feature (which you probably aren't). Could you post the gcode file? Search through your gcode file for "Z". The letter Z should only appear a few times in the begining and maybe once per layer. Unless you have zhop enabled in cura which will probably ruin the "recover failed print" feature. Look at all the Z values. Do they go up to 36.00? Do they go beyond? Maybe you should post the gcode file here.

I print a LOT of nylon. I actually prefer the bed hotter. 80C or 90C. Nylon gets more flexible up until around 120C where it suddenly melts and more flexible is good because the warping forces are absorbed by infinitesimal amounts of flexure and helps keep the print on the bed. But this probably isn't your main problem. I like Erin's advice about lowering the fan. I like around 3% fan on my UM3 but everyone's fan is different. But most important is bed preparation and "squish". Make real sure the bed is clean and I use a mixture of elmer's wood glue and water (about 20 parts water to 1 part glue but you can do 10 to 1 or 100 to 1 and it works fine). Mix that up well in a jar with a lid and then paint it on with a paint brush. Heat the bed up to printing temp (e.g. 70C) until it dries out and should be transparent. Squish meaning you have to squish the first layer better. Or level better. If you are using autolevel then I don't know what's going on as that usually works. I always do manual level and then adjust the bed up/down slightly when it's printing the skirt the first time and then I don't touch leveling for months. I have videos of me doing the leveling procedure here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t58-WTxDy-k Finally - you don't need any support for that cube. That's the calibration cube. No support! DRY DRY DRY Keep your nylon and PVA dry. Unlike PLA which you can practically store in a lake, Nylon and PVA can be "ruined" with just leaving it on the printer for 2 days doing nothing. So keep those in a 2 gallon zip lock bag with a cup of dessicant for each spool and keep recharging the dessicant every month (use color changing dessicant so you know when it needs drying again - I dry either in the microwave or on the bed). To dry "ruined" Nylon or PVA put it on the heated bed under 5 layers of towels and set the bed to 70C for PVA or 80C for Nylon. Leave it like that for 24 to 48 hours. Or if you are in a rush - look at your job and see how many meters of filament you need. Unspool that amount and without cutting anything just put that much filament on the bed and sit the spool on top and again cover with towels and you only need maybe 4 hours at 70C (less at higher temps but you can warp the filament or the spool).

The rods should be fine. Maybe post a picture? What you describe sounds like a head flood. Probably because the glass bed got dusty over many months. You need to clean that with soap and water and then clean again with glass cleaner. And then you might want to consider applying something like glue stick or woodglue/water mixture or something. Headfloods happen when the part starts out printing okay and at some point when it is wider than tall it comes loose on the bed and starts sliding around like a hockey puck. The filament keeps coming out but has nowhere to go and ends up inside the print head and makes a horrible mess. Usually you can salvage all the parts but the most delicate ones are the wires to the heater and temp sensor - sometimes you have to replace those two parts but everything else can be salvaged with a heat gun and some metal tools like needle nose pliers. google image search "ultimaker head flood" to get an idea if we are talking about the same thing.

Many brands of PLA get brittle after 12 to 30 hours of being straightened. So the PLA on the spool should be fine but the rest of it should be thrown away. New PLA takes much longer than 30 hours to get brittle but even PLA that arrived today might have sat in a warehouse for a year. Anyway to answer your question, you can remove the bowden tube at either or both ends. I think in this case it's easiest to remove the bowden on the print head. Push the print head to one of the 2 front corners of the machine (just good practice because sometimes you are pushing things very hard and don't want to bend the rods going through the head but in this case you don't need to push/pull hard). Then remove the little white clip - shaped like a horse shoe. Don't lose it. Then push down on that white ring (called a "collet") and simultaneously pull up on the bowden. Usually I can do it with just my fingers but you might want to use needle nose pliers to push down on the collet. When you are done just slide the bowden back in (no need to push up or down on the collet) and then reinsert the horseshoe clip. You might have to remove both ends. Don't forget which end goes to the feeder as that end has been modified to be cone shaped so the filament finds it's way into the bowden tube. Mark the feeder end with some painters tape or a sharpie.

Youtube is also good for posting videos. And it's free.

I need a better description. Please video the 3 seconds or so when it crashes. There are 10 possible issues that can all be described as "crash the print head into the side". I'm going to guess it happens during homing and you are not reaching the limit switch. If that happens it makes a horrible sound but nothing is damaged on your printer. The limit switch may have moved a little and maybe you need to move it back or maybe it's one of the rods through the print head don't hit the switch anymore or maybe your fan shroud is bent and hitting the side of your printer. I can determine all of this in a 3 second video of the problem happening.

That's the easier thing to fix. First select a printer again - maybe select a *different* UM2+ than you had selected before. Go to left side of screen in PREPARE mode. Click on your printer, then do "manage printers" then "machine settings". Now change the gcode style - I think you had it on Marlin maybe? Change it to ultigcode.