gr5

Yeah. Teflon. That final picture is helpful. Also - are you sure that 3rd fan is working? stick a piece of paper in there 3 times during your print to hear the paper buzz. Or stop the fan with your finger to know what to listen for.

So now you are saying the printer works fine with Cura except that you have to wait for the bed to heat up? Is that the only "bug"? There is a trick to get the nozzle to start heating up when the bed gets to a particular temperature but is that the only thing you care about?

Greg's request still applies here.

So I spent 20 minutes looking at the gcode anyway. Nothing is obvious. Looking at this picture below I can see you have pretty bad underextrusion. Particularly the outer shell. It looks like 60% filament then a 40% gap so you are only extruding like 60% of what is needed (40% underextrusion). In the top left corner of the picture you can see the surface there is about 70% underextruded as well. What is happening is the ends of each "line" are over extruding a bit and then it accelerates and in the center it is moving much faster and underextrudes as the pressure in the nozzle isn't building up fast enough and then it slows down and at the end of each line it now overextrudes again. I would either raise the temperature or slow things down by 2X. Also I don't like your lack of infill - typically infill should be at 20-25%. Yours looks much lower. What can happen is that first layer on top of that infill may be pretty bad and even though your settings have 5 layers on top it might take more than 5 layers to really recover - what happens is the top is a bit low so when you print on top of that it doesn't get the best bond - but really that's not your problem in this case because your cracks go all the way around including the outer and inner walls. Thinking about this some more - because you have plenty of extrusion on the edges of the top layer but not the center - this says a lot. This says that the pressure differential is pretty extreme. I'm now thinking that your feeder is fine but your effective nozzle diameter is much smaller than your line width. So your line width I assume is 0.4mm? Maybe it's 0.5mm or some other size but I think your nozzle is partially clogged - what happens is filament caramelizes over many many prints and coats the inside of the nozzle - shrinking the effective size. I'd either change the nozzle or lower your line width in cura by from 0.4 to 0.35 (about 10%) and see if the top layers are more consistent. Or replace the nozzle. Or clean the nozzle with a sharp hypodermic while nozzle is at 200C - scraping the caramelized brown stuff off the inside of the nozzle. Or burn the hell out of that nozzle over a gas flame until everything is carbon dust/smoke (not while attached to printer!) I know you said this only does it when combing is off but that top layer pattern and those walls are showing so much underextrusion that you have to fix that first and that will mask/fix this other issue where only one layer has a gap. I'm thinking your gap has to do with the upper blocks cooling and warping and the lack of good layer adhesion (because of underextrusion) causes the part to crack at the gap. This makes complete sense to me that it cracks where it does. Not when it's printing that layer but a few minutes later as it's printing 10 or so layers higher up.

Sorry I really really need the project file. Not gcode or model. Can you make a smaller model that has the same problem? Just a 2cm by 2cm square that is maybe 1cm tall and then a smaller cube on top of that? Every model you slice, going forwards, when you save the gcode please also save the project file such that you can always go back (I do this - I use project files the way other people use profiles).

Wow - 2 problems with a brand new printer? This is really rare. Even just having loose set screws is rare. They have to be very very tight by the way - particularly the ones on the stepper - so tight you are afraid something might break (the screw or the tool). You should contact your reseller about the filament thing. They should have support staff. I have an S5 but without the material station so I'm not an expert on that whole procedure. Does the filament reach the print head? Does it come out of the nozzle when you are loading the filament (part of the procedure - you are supposed to click when the filament starts coming out). Are the feeders closed? Each of the 2 feeders have a lever that needs to be in the down position. In the up position the feeders are like a car in neutral - you can slide filament through in that position.

Maybe show a video of the problem. I've done this a few times and it always works perfectly. You need to "shove" the head switch into the lift mechanism before continuing the procedure. If it still doesn't work after a few tries, try to do "reset all printer settings" and then try again (you will lose your XY calibration data).

I love puzzles like this. I've never experienced anything like this but 1) Is this PLA? 2) Could you please post your project file (the one with combing on)? (do menu "file" "save project" and post that file - it will include your model among other things) 3) This is a fantastic example - could you photograph some close-ups of the crack please? Both outside the part and in the inner cylinder. I'm worried you don't have the exact same settings anymore. That the part may have been placed in a different location or you may have changed one parameter but hopefully that won't matter. Thanks!

By the way, it's good you did the factory reset as another possibility is that the steps/mm or the "distance to go before reporting ER05" values can get messed up and factory reset changes these back to defaults.

Your Z switch is fine. It's your Z stepper that isn't moving. When you first home the Z axis it moves the bed down until it hits the switch then up until it doesn't and then down until it does. If it switch doesn't respond within a certain time then you get the ER05. If it is always down then you get the "stuck" error. In both cases, many things of course can cause the error. So to diagnose I need more info. Do none of the motors ever move? Did you not notice this back when you were getting the ER05? When you swapped X and Z motor connection did the X motor start moving but not the Z? Some possibilities: 1) Z stepper driver broken - this is common - these stepper drivers get very hot! They work hard and can fail 2) Cables to Z stepper broken 3) Stepper broken (almost impossible - this is probably not it) 4) 24V signal to steppers not connected (common - there is a relay, K1, that can block 24V to the heaters and steppers - heat won't work either if this is the issue) These are all very easy to diagnose since the symptoms are quite different. For example with #4 you can't get the nozzle or bed to heat up. With #1 you can swap cables to diagnose. If it's #1 and you have an old enough printer then there is an extra driver for the second extruder but newer PCBs don't have that chip installed. It's pretty obvious since the stepper drivers are a large square chip positioned in a way that they are near and lined up to the 5 stepper connectors. If you do have an older PCB you can then remap the extra extruder driver in the pins.h file and rebuild Marlin. I can send you links to more details. If you have a newer PCB then best course of action is to order a new PCB.

More info about M0 and M25 here: https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M0:_Stop_or_Unconditional_stop

Looking again at the photo. Is it possible your bowden wasn't all the way down? The bowden needs to pass all the way through the aluminum cylinder and then a little farther into the teflon part. There is a ridge and if the bowden isn't centered then there will be a gap where the filament (if too warm) can expand into that space just above the teflon and below the bowden. This shouldn't normally happen as the filament should be cool enough above the teflon to be solid. But if you have a hot environment due to your building or due to weather the PLA might take a little too long to cool and it can smoosh out/expand into that gap. The fix is to make sure the bowden is all the way down. I have a 3d printed replacement for that aluminum that has a slit in the side so you can see what's going on inside. You have to print it in ABS though. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-spring-replacement

There is not one answer but normally the teflon gets soft after a few hundred hours above 180C and with the compression (from the bowden pushing down, from the aluminum cylincer spacer pushing down) it squeezes the filament - mostly right where it enters the brass heater block. This pinches the filament and makes it difficult to feed and can cause underextrusion. Also it's possible for the filament to cool after a print and it can't come out of the printer past that skinny spot of the teflon. Or sometimes you can't get filament to insert past that skinny spot. I'd replace the teflon and you could potentially save the old one and this doesn't fix anything mark the old one as "good".

In Cura in mesh fixes, make sure everything is unchecked. If that doesn't fix it then please post your project file which will contain your model and your printer and your profile and your settings. Do "file" "save project" and post that file here.

Go to left side of screen in PREPARE mode. Click on your printer, then do "manage printers" then "machine settings", Uncheck "origin at center". That's likely the problem. Also check the dimensions of your bed - for example, if it says your bed is 100mm wide but it is actually 200mm then fix this. This shouldn't be the dimension of the glass/print surface but the limit of travel for the printer.

Make sure that 3rd fan there (not the side 2 fans but the middle one) is working. That's a common cause. If not that then replace the teflon part. You should change it out every 500 hours or so. More often if you print hotter than 210C. Teflon, like filament, is considered a consumable.

I suspect there is indeed a log file despite the GUI not appearing. Depending on your operating system, log file is here: %APPDATA%\cura\<Cura version>\cura.log (Windows), or usually C:\Users\\<your username>\AppData\Roaming\cura\<Cura version>\cura.log $USER/Library/Application Support/cura/<Cura version>/cura.log (OSX) $USER/.local/share/cura/<Cura version>/cura.log (Ubuntu/Linux)

It's a a new cura feature starting in Cura 4.9.0.

0.2? You mean 0.2mm layer height? I was talking about the parameter "line width". You want that to be 1/2 as the width of the walls you are printing. Or smaller. But your fins were nice and thick - easy to print even with 0.6mm nozzle (and 0.6mm line width).

I looked at your profile. Didn't see anything bad. Although I'd change the infill density from 15% back to the default of 20%. This will provide a little more support when it is doing the final top 7 layers. I'd have to see what it looks like on the 7th and 6th layers from the top to know if that's a problem or not. That could cause underextrusion on the top layer. Although it's relatively minor. Still I don't think you are going to get the topmost layer as nice as the walls. That's just how 3d printing is. I suppose you could also change the flow for the top layer to 110% (because it looks to me about 10% underextrusion where the gaps in some of the lines are about 10% as wide as the nozzle width). But I don't know an easy way to do that without sitting at the printer and waiting for it to print the last bit. And then jumping in and going into the TUNE menu on the S5 and upping the flow there to 110%. You could sink this die into the print bed and only print the top 20 layers to save time and experiment. You need enough layers for there to be infill so about 20 layers would be the minimum. In cura you have to go to settings and not force the part to fall to the bed and change the z position to a negative value with the move tool.

You can increase the walls until there is no more top - just set the wall thickness to 1 meter. Seriously. look what it does in preview. I don't think you'll be any happier with it though.

Consider using Ultimaker's "breakaway" material. It works great with ABS and leaves a nice surface behind. I really hate ABS. It's weaker. It's harder to print. It looks worse. And it stinks. It really stinks bad. The only thing where ABS beats PLA is that it is a higher temp material but... there are so many other choices of materials! If all you care about is higher temp, well it depends what the working temp will be, but perhaps PETG or nGen can handle the temps your customers need and those are stronger and come out better.

Works for me. What do you have for your line width? Even with 0.6mm line width it slices just fine for me.

The first 2 things that come to mind would be either avoid Polymaker or don't use the material handler. Is it possible you changed the feeder tension? It's supposed to be in the middle. If you don't know what I'm talking about then don't worry about it. Okay so I downloaded that material from marketplace - this file here - rename to ".zip" if you can't open it. There's a folder in there called files then materials then the remaining file is what you want. https://api.ultimaker.com/cura-packages/v1/cura/v7.5.0/packages/Polymaker_PolyMide_PA6_CF_2019/download Is that the right one? It says it has a break temperature of 175C so something is wrong? <setting key="break preparation temperature">280</setting> <setting key="break temperature">175.0</setting>

Even though it's orange I think it will still slice. I think it's just a warning - not an error. Or am I wrong? Let me know.