Jump to content

Dim3nsioneer

Ambassador
  • Posts

    4,297
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    33

Everything posted by Dim3nsioneer

  1. Chopmeister cleared his Thingiverse account after the 'Takerbot' events. His designs can be found on Youmagine including the twister blocks. I got the GT2 clamps from him directly in order to test them. They worked quite well. However, I think it should be him distributing the design. I'll let him know that there is a demand for the GT2 clamps...
  2. Try 14.07. Slicing quality has significantly improved compared to 14.03. However, the slicing resolution of 14.07 is still higher than that of 14.01 so minor defects in the model can still affect print quality.
  3. Ich hatte mich auf die Zeitangaben bezogen. Die Aussage basiert auf persönlichen Vergleichen zwischen Soll- und Ist-Print-Zeit.
  4. Unfortunately it's not open source. This means we would not know if parts from the CuraEngine have been (mis)used. I hope not (sorry, I get a bit suspicious if I read 'fast slicer engine' or similar). However, I'm pretty optimistic that Cura PInk Unicorn will be not too far away from this slicer software after having had a peek into PU just a few days ago. But thank you anyway for posting!
  5. It's a different clamp part for the gt2 belts. It is designed by Chopmeister but not yet released on Youmagine I think.
  6. The tension of the 606-GT2 belts is just perfect (but you need different x-y-blocks, e.g. Chopmeisters twister blocks). And the steps per mm is exactly 80. Then the dimensions are perfect. Enough reasons for a change?
  7. Hallo Socrasthes Herzlich Willkommen im Ultimaker-Forum! Da gibt es ein paar Dinge, die Du ausprobieren kannst: - Fan auf 100% nach wenigen Layer (bei Überhängen empfiehlt sich immer viel Kühlung) - Bett-Temperatur runter auf 60-65°C, begünstigt die Kühlung, 75°C ist unnötig hoch, ja sogar schädlich - Hotend auf 200-210°C runter; mit 225°C wärst Du richtig für etwa 100mm/s - alle Teile miteinander drucken, nicht nacheinander - darauf achten, dass jedes Teil mal ganz klar im Bereich eines Lüfters liegt, notfalls noch einen kleinen Zusatzturm in gleicher Höhe errichten. Es gibt rechts vorne vom Druckkopf eine Stelle, die schlecht belüftet wird. Viel Erfolg!
  8. Hast Du die Dicke nachgemessen? Ich dachte auch schon mal, der macht doch 2 Linien und beim Nachmessen war es dann doch nur 0.5mm. Ich glaube, vor einigen Monaten wurde die Funktionalität von Cura so erweitert, dass er für 0.5mm eine dicke und eine Ergänzungslinie mit Material für 0.1mm Breite macht.
  9. Die Angaben von Cura stimmen inzwischen recht gut, diejenigen des UM2 direkt manchmal nicht so wirklich.
  10. Very impressive. :cool: I also thought once about implementing a flexible shaft for the very same reasons. However, it was just a general idea, never mentioned somewhere and I never built it as it is quite some work to relocate part of the feeder to the print head. So, congratulations for being the first one... :-P I'm pretty convinced that we will soon see quite a few 3D printers using this mode of operation. Most probably, a company from Brooklyn will try to patent it soon... :sad: So it's very good that you let us all know about it! Thanks!
  11. It might help if you indicate your country here in the forum. Especially if you are located somewhere in the USA you might benefit from much faster support.
  12. Incredible this criminal energy here... :shock: oops...sorry :oops: ... I meant this creative energy here, of course... :mrgreen:
  13. You may try to improve the bed levelling. The fact that the lines have some gap in between each other says that the bed levelling is not yet perfect. Cleaning the glass with water and some mild dishwashing agent might also be a good thing. Sometimes substances like alcohol can lead to very local delamination of the first layer.
  14. Best thing you can do is to make sure the power cord is properly plugged into the power supply. The power supplies are actually quite high quality products from Mean Well and according to a recent post by Daid, there was only one bad out of thousand (?). But maybe you're the unlucky one. In this case you should submit a ticket to Ultimaker.
  15. No, they are not compatible at all. For UM2 spare parts you have to issue a ticket or write an e-mail to Ultimaker support.
  16. Dieser Faktor heisst wohl Mensch. An den UM2 dürften die allgemeinen Erwartungen höher sein als an den UM1. Und da Wertungen ja nichts anderes als ein Vergleich zwischen Erwartung und Ist-Zustand sind, ist die Chance, dass der UM2 enttäuscht wohl etwas grösser als beim UM1.
  17. You might try to put a washer between the aluminium part and the wooden part at each of the four edges.
  18. Do you have abrasion from the belts? I have tons of the small black particles. Some of them land on the print bed. The fans, especially when they start, can blow directly at the nozzle. So far I see the only way to deal with it is regular cleaning.
  19. Maybe page 11 of the same document helps... Shouldn't be too difficult for you to provide a 8-14V voltage out of the PWM... You can also go below the 8V. ebmpapst will just no guarantee that the fan runs properly all the time, but if it works, it's fine. As the motor has an overheat-protection you should not be able to destroy it by running too low.
  20. Yep. Like you did a veeeeeery long time ago in January...
  21. What happens if you print just one at the location where the second would be?
  22. Nope, the QL series has a PWM input. Check page 26 of the http://www.ebmpapst.com/media/content/info-center/downloads_10/catalogs/epL_Katalog2009_DE.pdffor more details about the QG030. Life span is 30'000 hours. Should be ok for a start (more than 3 years of continous printing).
  23. The motors shouldn't get warmer as long as you don't increase the current on the stepper drivers. If you have to increase the motor current after a modification, you should check the mechanical resistance of the print head when pushed around while the motors are switched off. If you feel different mechanical resistance at different positions, you should check for excentricity of the pulleys and un-straightness of the rods.
  24. Für z-hop finde ich persönlich 0.2mm nicht schlecht. Manuelles Nachbessern des Models heisst: Fehlerhafte Flächen/Linien/Punkte löschen und manuell neu erstellen und die Oberfläche sauber schliessen.
  25. Hallo Patrick Willkommen im Forum! Wegen der Bestellung habe ich Dir gerade eine PM geschickt. Gruss
×
×
  • Create New...