Dim3nsioneer

And there is another UM2 for sale from the same seller... for the same low price... :?:

Hi Vlad Welcome to the Ultimaker forum! Can you please tell us, what your other fan settings in the expert settings of Cura are?

I wonder why the Ultimaker print has a different color? Looks to me as it is a different filament...

Except someone would promise you life-long chocolate cookies support... ? :lol:

I had the impression in the past that you also like teasing... So, the heated UM1 bed kit can be taken for sure, I guess. And I could imagine that it is a good moment to switch from the old electronics to the Ultimainboard 2.x. There might also be something Youmagine-related... and maybe something for connectivity... (remember that the Ultimaker website says something about WiFi-ready for the UM2? However, this would mean Daid kept the development unusually secret... B) )

I have seen Daid being quite busy working on Pink Unicorn. However, I think it's not realistic to expect the new Cura for the MF. Realistic answering times of the (Europe based) support would be a nice announcement. I'm also not so sure they will show the UM2 dual extrusion.

Hi there When I printed a cylindrical object today I realised I have significant horizontal banding. Thus I printed Nick's test object for http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3755-horizontal-banding-elimination-thread/. And this was the result: It's printed in white PLA at 220°C / 50mm/s (or even a bit less due to minimum layer time). X/Y-acceleration was set to 1000mm/s^2; x/y-jerk was 20mm/s. I use Robert's feeder which works flawless so far. The print was sliced with Cura 14.07. Ultimaker2Marlin is up to date. To cross-check, I printed the same object with the very same parameters with blue PLA: The banding is much less pronounced but it still can be found on a closer look. So the two filaments do not behave exactly the same. That's fine with me as long as they behave well... However, the lines are not at the same heights; they seem to appear randomly. Then I realised my UM2 has some vertical play between lead screw and the trapezoidal nut; it's maybe half or one mm. My question: Do other UM2s also have play there? I remember one of Nicolinux' machines to have had plenty of play there... If fear that the platform hangs sometimes and then gets free again; something I know from the old lead screw of my UM1. If there are any other reasons for the horizontal banding someone might think of, please also let me know... thanks!

So much for 'we could barely fit one or two visitors into our rooms'... you even have a couch!

Naja, jede mechanische Hilfe hat so ihre Risiken... Wenn Dein Inbus relativ abgerundete Kanten hat und sich damit nicht ins Teflon reinschneiden kann, dann würde ich jetzt kein unmittelbares Problem sehen. Aber Schiefgehen kann natürlich immer etwas; also als Standardreinigung würde ich es nicht verwenden. Besser bei kompletter Verstopfung ist eigentlich, mit einem feinen Draht (Grillbürste?) von unten im heissen Zustand zu 'entstopfen' und danach die Düse innen mit der 'Atomic'-Methode zu reinigen.

Den Druckbereich würde ich trotzdem nur so gross wählen, wie Du ihn unbedingt brauchst. Es sei denn, Du verfügst über unlimitierte Mittel und grössere Mengen Harz anzuschaffen ist überhaupt kein Problem für Dich. Das Zeugs ist einfach teuer. Die Frage bei den SLA-Druckern ist inzwischen: Laser oder Beamer? Da müsstest Du Dir überlegen, wie weit / wie sehr die Geschwindigkeit eine Rolle spielt. Mit den einzelnen Modellen kenne ich mich leider nicht aus. Soweit ich das beurteilen kann, sind in jüngerer Zeit einige neue Sachen auf den Markt gekommen. Da stellt sich natürlich immer die Frage der Kinderkrankheiten.

Das hier dürfte ungefähr das sein, was Du suchst: http://www.fablab-regensburg.de/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/Ultimaker-2-Nozzle.pdf Apropos Suche: Vergiss die Forums-Suche; die ist absolut unbrauchbar. Würde niemanden wundern, wenn diese den Begriff 'Ultimaker' nicht mal finden würde. Das Problem ist bekannt; leider tut Ultimaker nichts dagegen. Wenn Du wieder einmal etwas suchst, gibt es nur eine vernünftige Variante: die Suche über Google. Hänge einfach 'site:umforum.ultimaker.com' an und Du wirst staunen, wieviele Hits Du bekommst.

When you have friction problems with filament inside the Bowden tube, it's always a good idea to measure the diameter of the filament. If the diameter is larger than 3.00mm, you most probably will never succeed. edit: I don't know what happens to the diameter when PVA is stored in a non-dry environment, it may swell.

@der_s: Beim Fairphone case kommen zwei unterschiedliche Effekte zusammen. Einerseits die 'normalen' Stringing-Effekte, wie auch in OP gezeigt. Da helfen alle die bisherigen Empfehlungen. Plus ein kleiner zhop... Zum anderen solltest Du Dir die Layer-View des Case mal gaaanz genau anschauen. Gewisse Blobs sind 'durch Cura verursacht'. Der wahre Grund sind Fehler im Model, die selbst Netfabb nicht behebt. Dort hilft nur manuelles Nachbessern. Oder Du nimmst Cura 14.01, das eine kleinere Genauigkeit hat und die Fehler in der Ungenauigkeit verschwinden lässt (was aber nicht unbedingt schöne Cases gibt).

And doesn't produce very unhealthy fumes and nano-particles during printing...

115°C for the heated bed is not low. I don't know where Marlin has the safety maximum. And I don't know what Marlin does if an external command exceeds this level. It might be worth checking if this causes your issue.

I would expect it to work. Did you change the M109 param values?

I cannot confirm this effect. I also have the two lines uncommented and they work as they should. What Marlin version do you have (Marlinbuilder or self compiled)?

which seems to me the proper way to deal with cartesian coordinates....

I didn't know that Win8 shows stl previews... thanks for that information! However, it seems that the preview has a bit a strange way to arrange the coordinates - but e.g. meshmixer has this problem too....

I had to remove the oldham coupling in my setup. It turned out that the overlap of the coupling parts with the axes from the leadscrew and the motor axis were too short. Thus, the parts were easily tilted a bit which immediately led to the well known periodic horizontal lines in the print. From my present point of view I can rather recommend to implement something to adjust the x-y-position of the brass nut in order to have the leadscrew at the right spot. However, there might be better oldham couplings than I used with longer shafts and they might improve the situation.

Hallo Kayoo Erst mal willkommen im Forum! Das klingt ganz danach, dass Cura durch eine Anti-Virus-Software o.ä. blockiert wird. Versuche doch mal, mit ausgeschalteter Software (die meisten Pakete haben eine Einstellung, mit der man den Schutz für eine Minute oder so ausschalten kann) Cura zu starten. Den Startmenu-Eintrag hast Du, oder?

Sounds to me like a Windows related problem. Disable the 'hide extension for known file types' option in the Explorer and cut the '.txt' from the file.

Hmmm... es soll auch Schweizer geben, die München als nicht so weit weg erachten... :eek:

Oben rechts bei jedem Plugin hat's ein Schliessen-Kreuz. Wenn es nicht sichtbar sein sollte, musst Du den Bereich etwas gegen rechts aufziehen.

You may check in the expert settings of Cura if you have both solid top and bottom infill activated. Do you use any plugins for this print?