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Dim3nsioneer

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Everything posted by Dim3nsioneer

  1. Knowing one or more of the announcements is not so difficult. You just have to meet the right people.With this strategy, I also have absolutely no idea what at least one of the announcements will be... :ph34r:
  2. Es gibt ein Kickstartet-Projekt für einen Filament-Fuser. Beim einfachen Nachschieben mit glatten Schnittflächen fällt halt die Retraction für einige Zeit aus. Etliche Filament-Hersteller bieten aber 2.2kg-Rollen an. Die sind zwar auch irgendwann fertig, aber eben doch um einiges später... :wink:
  3. Hi hugues Welcome to the Ultimaker forum! Most important: Wait with your decision until Ultimaker has made their product announcement scheduled for the 19th(?) of this month. The UM Original will see some serious modifications after which the difference between the two UM models is expected to be much smaller (it will include a heated bed). Well, it's not yet official, but 99% for sure.
  4. It does. But I usually look it up on http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code
  5. Hallo Alain Die Privatnachrichten findest ganz zuoberst in der Titelleiste des Forums beim Symbol mit dem Briefumschlag.
  6. What printer do you have? The pause at height plugin distributed with Cura was written by Daid himself; he made some fixes for this plugin some time ago afaik.
  7. You don't need to download the plugin. It's part of the Cura distribution (it's called Pause at height in the plugin tab).
  8. Of course, it's a 255N (sorry for the typo). I have to add that I only print PLA and PET. So 245°C has been the highest temperature my UM2 has ever reached. I think the effective difference of the air flow is not that big. You have to consider the fact that the heat sink has an enormous flow resistance and air flow of a fan is usually measured with zero flow resistance. Thus, the air velocity will be about the same and it's the air velocity which determines the amount of heat which is transfered from the heat sink into the air. btw: There is also a 255H with 0.6W if I'm not wrong.
  9. The best thing about the green cubeTM is the fact that there is no gap between the lines, right? (How?)
  10. I'm glad you didn't try to rotate it in order to avoid support... :lol:
  11. The 5V fan on my UM2 was noisy as well. This is what I did: - I inspected the fan and thought it might be vibrating - so I pushed with a screw driver onto the case to check - I was clumsy enough to touch the blades with the screw driver while the fan was running. result: two blades broke out and THEN it was REALLY noisy. - I ordered a new 5V fan from ebmpapst and mounted it: silent. I recommend you skip the second and the third point, especially the third point. You may also skip the fourth point and ask Ultimaker for a replacement.
  12. No problem... Your print is definitively better than mine: It's printed at 235°C, 20mm/s, Bowden oiled I also tried to print the outer shell at 10mm/s; looks the same... I tried to print it at 245°C; looks the same... I have the impression that the grip of the knurled bolt (UM Original) is not sufficient to push the filament really into the Bowden tube...
  13. I can't see your picture but I think I know what you mean. It's the result of 'micro-oozing' during a travel. Increasing the travel speed might help (250mm/s are not a problem for an UM2, maybe you can go even higher). And make sure the nozzle is clean on the outside when you begin a print.
  14. I agree that a watchdog timer might be useful. On the other hand no 3D printer should be left unattended for a whole weekend. It's something one wouldn't do with a burning candle, right?
  15. Most likely the file on the sdcard is incomplete due to: - unmounting the sdcard without having it properly ejected first or - a sdcard defect
  16. Or you buy it directly from the UM webstore as some UM2 parts including the PTFE bushing are now listed there... edit: of course, if you're UM2 is quite new it makes more sense to contact support to get a new PTFE bushing for free....
  17. Horizontal banding caused by a partially stuck z stage (as gr5 described) is much better visible in prints made from light colored PLA (especially pastel colors) than in those made from dark material. It's a question of the master batch used which alters the flow behavior. I also have this issue with my UM2 (http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6907-horizontal-banding-on-um2/). However, as I just reoiled the z screw this weekend and it didn't go away I now focus on the z nut. IMHO this is a very cheap part with not very high quality. It has quite some play (up to a millimeter in my case). I submitted a ticket to Ultimaker this weekend asking how much play is normal in that part. I'm seriously considering replacing the standard z nut with a anti-backlash z nut.
  18. Bis jetzt hatte ich keinerlei Probleme. Allerdings kann ich jetzt nicht sagen ob und wieviele Male ich schon an den Stecker gestossen bin. Er ist bei mir auch nicht so exponiert.
  19. Mein Kabel hat einen abgewinkelten Stecker. Der UM ist ziemlich genau 1 Jahr alt. Scheinbar gab's da mal einen Design-Change?
  20. Try the 'cut off' option in the advanced tab. Either the structures are indeed not on the same height or a numerical uncertainty has caused the effect. In the first case, cut off the necessary amount, in the second case, cut off something like 0.01mm.
  21. Are you sure about it? I thought Cura PU will be able to do different infills for different objects, but not a variation of the infill within one object. But maybe you know more than I do or I do not remember correctly... :unsure: Daid will certainly let us know it tomorrow... B) edit: I think a beta is not something to expect within the next few weeks...
  22. Die Gruppe der Copolyester umfasst viele ähnliche Materialien. PETG ist eines davon. XT ist aber kein PETG, sondern ein anderer Copolyester (Vermutung: es handelt sich möglicherweise um Eastar™ Copolyester 6763 von Eastman). PETG ist also eine Materialbezeichnung und XT ein Markenname. Die Glastemperatur ist auch nicht ganz identisch. Colorfabb gibt meines Wissens 75°C an, Madesolid für ihr PET+ (das aus PETG gemacht ist) 82°C. Schlussendlich hilft nur ausprobieren.
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