Dim3nsioneer

Please try a Cura Connect reset.

Da würde ich zuerst ein Cura Connect reset probieren. Wenn der nichts bringt, einen Factory reset. Normalerweise verhält sich kein UM3, egal welche Firmware Version, so komisch bei einem M0, der übrigens auch auf dem UM3 der GCODE für die Pause ist. Bezeichnend ist, dass das Problem auch auftaucht wenn am Gerät selbst pausiert wird.

An official training at Ultimaker with a certificate. Users are not supposed to open the bottom plate of the S5. If the cable is damaged you probably will have no other choice but to bring in the printer for warranty repair.

See the thread about firmware 5.2.8. It's a bug. A fix is WIP. Until then it is recommended by UM people to manually move the filament at start in order to compensate the wrong retract.

I sometimes see that too on my UM3 with fw 5.2.8. But a factory reset seems to cure that problem.

This post has to start with a strong disclaimer. What I will present below is a very dirty hack and to be considered extremely experimental. People who perform the described changes on the firmware 5.2.8 are doing this on their very own risk. I have just quickly tested this on an Ultimaker 3 and it worked for me but it might brick your printer. As we know there is a bug in firmware 5.2.8 which makes the printer retract both filaments before starting a xy calibration such that it prints the first block out of thin air instead of plastics. The logic behind this hack is to bring the (or some) firmware code in question back to what was e.g. in firmware 5.1.7 for the S5. First, you have to login into your printer (people who know what they are doing know how). Then you have to edit the file "generateXyTestPattern.py" in the folder "/usr/share/griffin/griffin/printer/procedures/wizard": line 206: replace "strategy=1" with "strategy=0" line 213: comment that line out line 225: replace "strategy=1" with "strategy=0" line 229: comment that line out Then you must perform a factory reset so these changes become effective. The printer then prints the calibration pattern correctly right from the start. However, the prime blobs it creates do not stick well to the glass and might be drawn around. And in order to repeat: It's not recommended to do this for standard users but maybe for one or the other here who likes to hack and accepts the risk to brick the printer.

Afaik only the user "root" exists. Be aware that using the deloper mode is somehow a grey zone in terms of warranty. If you are still in warranty you might want to contact your reseller for getting the UM3 working again properly.

Firmware 5.2.8, I assume? It's a bug and Ultimaker is working on a bugfix.

Then you have indeed only the two options left to revert to 4.3.3 by using the above described sd card method or let your reseller do this for you or fix it otherwise.

I assume you also tried it with a factory reset first?

So the second step does not work for you when you try it again?

Be aware that the Ultimaker 3 was already a printer aimed for the professional market and not for consumers back in 2016. Upgrading the Ultimaker 3 would make it logically another machine for pro users.

I'm sure you were informed about the advanced 3D printing kit for the Ultimaker 3? It also includes a front cover.

Maybe this is an information that helps not just Bobby: Ultimaker seemed to have changed something in the logic of the active leveling frequency setting on the UM3. Until firmware 4.3.3 the logic was that while "never" was selected, active leveling data from the last probing was still used for compensation. Since firmware 5.2.8, compensation is fully switched off while printing with the "never" option. So for those with an Ultimaker 3 and the leveling freqency set to "never" who have problems with the nozzle-to-bed distance, please make sure, you manually level the buildplate correctly or switch to a different leveling frequency settings like "every week".

Hi Bobby, in case you have an Ultimaker 3 and active leveling set to never, try a different option there. If it still prints too close to the buildplate, please check the capacitive sensor with the new diagnosis tool.

At this time (>30 minutes) it is pretty safe to repower the printer and repeat the update.

@piphil Did you perform both factory reset and Cura Connect reset? Revert to a firmware before 5.2 is not possible on a S5 for the end user.

Whether it is repaired under warranty or not can also depend on the condition of the silicone nozzle cover and on the fact if it was mounted correctly. So regularly checking that one and replacing it if it is damaged not only helps to avoid discussions about warranty but effectively protects your printhead from being flooded. Checking once a month is good for regular PLA printers, if you print materials with a higher printing temperature you may want to check it even more often.

Good thing about Cura and its detailed settings is that you don't have to set values for them - unless you have to (for individual objects or materials). Detailed settings start with the default settings if you switch over. And they stay like this independent of whether they are visible or not. If you set a different value in one or more detailed settings, you override the default setting. As you pointed out, you may use only a few of them and don't want the others to be visible. For that purpose you can use one of the presets from the three-line-menu right of the search box. You can also set your own visibilities by using the visibility dialog started by clicking on a cog symbol at the header of each category of settings. If you like a certain visibility setting so much that you want to save it you can use the "Custom Setting Visibility Set Creator" plugin by @ahoeben (to be installed from the Marketplace). For what all the different settings do you get a tooltip if you hover with the mouse over it. If that is not clear enough, there is a plugin called "settings guide" that currently did not yet make it into version 4.0 but is made by the Ultimaker devs so I guess/hope it will soon be in the Marketplace again. Finally, or as for the time being, you find a lot of explanations (actually the content of the settings guide) here: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/manuals/software The pages for Cura 4 are filled day by day I think but a majority of the settings are already documented under Cura 3. I hope this helps you (and others) to find your way through the Cura detailed settings. And don't forget, you still can use the default settings and don't have change anything (for standard materials and many objects).

Then I suggest you get in contact with your reseller and send him the logs.

For those with serious problems (like not working WiFi) after the update to 5.2.8 I would suggest a factory reset. There has been an UM3 firmware upgrade in the past (I think it was the one which introduced Cura Connect) which also required a factory reset on some machines.

Special bridging settings can be found in the "Experimental" section of the detailed Cura settings.

Typically bridges (aka horizontal overhangs between two edges) up to a length of about 7-8mm are fine without support on an Ultimaker printer. If they are longer, special bridging settings could be applied or you (more easily) print it with support.

Be aware there is a difference between preferred resellers and authorized resellers. The first ones should indeed be able to sell all spare parts while the authorized resellers usually have a limited portfolio and might not take orders for individual parts.