DidierKlein

Salut, J'ai eu le cas une fois aussi, c'est vrai que c'est plutôt chiant! Si tu modélise toi même ce que tu imprime, il y a peut être moyen de faire un petit trou pour évacuer l'eau plus vite? (ou faire un trou dans une partie non visible pour évacuer l'eau? Sinon tu le laisses s'évacuer tout seul?

Personnaly i find that the default profiles have to high infill speeds, you can change them and lower them to the main printing speeds (if the infill speed is not visible click on the gear next to printing speeds to make it appear).

Hi and welcome, It looks like underextrusion to me. What are your print settings? Material used? Temperatures? Some setting could be wrong, or something in the printer causing underextrusion What printer is this?

Hi and welcome, The build speed can increase when you use larger nozzles so yes it will increase. Not sur about the actual number but you can print higher layers and increase the print speed (or rather decrease the print time) with a 0.8 core.

Not an expert of sketchup at all, i tried it a few years back but did not continue to use it because to me it's not the best for 3d printing. I use Fusion 360 instead. But when i tried it, i had a plugin to convert to STL, that's what you are looking for i think?

You might want to enclose the printer somehow if you have ABS delamination, or choose a material that is less subject to delamination (PLA maybe?)

You are printing with one color only? It should not prime the second core normally... is your firmware up to date?

Intéressant et ambitieux. D'après ce que j'ai lu et ce qui a déjà été pointé ici, l'obstacle principal de cette solution est le refroidissement efficace des têtes. Cette solution à déjà été testée et il y avait toujours des problèmes de refroidissement. Il y a un allemand qui bosse sur un système avec water cooling qui semble bien fonctionné mais d’après moi la mise en œuvre est beaucoup plus complexe qu'un mark2. Je pense que pour que ce soit viable il faut revoir la tête complètement; probablement l'agrandir un peu pour que l'espace entre les deux soit plus grand déjà.

Hi and welcome Im not a S3D expert but it seems to me that it's delivered with pretty good profiles for the UM2 no?

Hi and welcome What is happening on the first picture? Have you tried to up the temp a bit? seems a bit low to me

Hi and welcome, Just select that you print the object with the second core in Cura (you can select this in the left side toolbar)

Hi and welcome You can add a second head with this kit, but i advise you to have a look at the magnetic tool holder

Indeed the for the bondtech! About your feeder the pressure is set to the middle (indicator)

Bienvenue sur le forum @evoM186 @electromu si tu passes par la Sinon tu peux aussi le contacter par mp

Welcome to everybody! Don't be shy we don't bite (and when we do we don't leave marks) 8)

You can use S3D but it's not really optimised for the Ultimaker 3. I think you get better results with Cura 2.6 with the UM3, but you are open to use other slicers, just know that somethings (like dual extrusion) will probably perform worse

Did you weight with the PVA? Strange, i never tried to weight the prints and compare them but it should be pretty close

Rapide le SAV forum

I use a lot of Colorfabb filaments, i don't really have a favourite. The silver is nice, the intense green also. The economy PLA is quite nice also (tried silver and white). Good price for the length of filament My overall favourite is woodfill but that also needs a larger nozzle (0.6mm min)

Hi, I don't think the feeder would be the problem (maybe just clean it). Most obvious part to check is the head (nozzle partially clogged, or deformed teflon). The UM2+ feeder is actually very good

Hi, Not sure i understood clearly your problem. But i seem to understand that some filament is leaking from the top of the nozzle where you screw it too the block? If so, then you need to tighten the nozzle a bit more, heat the nozzle to at least 140 - 160°c and tighten it more. After that you need to relevel the bed most probably. Always change the nozzle while hot. I advise you to print the torque wrench that you can find on youmagine

I have a question, i recently discussed with someone who is using PP at his work, he told me it's possible to weld PP parts together (like you do for metal). He was very interested in the new PP filament from UM, and asked me if it would be possible to do it with printed parts. Also is it possible in the future to have different colors for PP ?

Oui c'est la dernière. Mais je n'ai pas testé avec celle la. Tu as pas une ancienne version 15.0xx qui traine?

Pour info il y a un nouveau firmware dispo pour le Mark2 qui devrait corriger le soucis des impressions penchées. (je dis devrait parcequ'il n'y a pas encore eu de feedback).

Quel version de Cura? La dernière fois que j'ai testé ça c'était avec la 15.04 et ça allait bien